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Lanvin delivers menswear greatest hits ahead of Hedi Slimane debut Lanvin delivers menswear greatest hits ahead of Hedi Slimane debut
(about 5 hours later)
The autumn-winter 2013 season of menswear shows came to a close on Sunday night at the Grand Palais in Paris with an eagerly awaited debut from Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent.The autumn-winter 2013 season of menswear shows came to a close on Sunday night at the Grand Palais in Paris with an eagerly awaited debut from Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent.
Respected for his work at Dior Homme, Slimane is the designer many in the industry consider responsible for the development of the skinny aesthetic that has dominated men's fashion over the past decade. The Saint Laurent post is his first design role since he left Dior in 2007 to be a photographer.Respected for his work at Dior Homme, Slimane is the designer many in the industry consider responsible for the development of the skinny aesthetic that has dominated men's fashion over the past decade. The Saint Laurent post is his first design role since he left Dior in 2007 to be a photographer.
His 1970s-tinged womenswear collection for spring, his first for the Yves Saint Laurent house, attracted lukewarm reviews from editors last October but a positive response from buyers. At the end of the long catwalk, where speakers swung out, as if attached to a theme park ride, and bulbs flashed, power players of the fashion industry, including Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld and Nicola Formichetti, sat in the front row alongside François-Henri Pinault, head of PPR, which owns Saint Laurent, and his wife, the actor Salma Hayek.
On Sunday morning, Lanvin delivered its latest menswear collection. This featured classic, long, double-breasted coats in wool, oversized T-shirts with wide elbow-length sleeves, and every possible trouser shape, from wide and loose to narrow with zips at the ankles. A rock soundtrack boomed, setting the scene for Slimane's grunge-rock collection featuring spray-on leather biker trousers, skin-tight pale ripped jeans, black capes, hooded cardigans, floor-sweeping animal pattern and Dennis the Menace stripe scarves.
This super-lean aesthetic, with its lead singer swagger, is much the same look that the designer honed at Dior Homme.
Sheepskin coats, fringed bikers jackets and plaid shirting added to the overall mood while coats such as a camel duffle, a monochrome baseball jacket or a naval coat with gold buttons seemed more likely to have a life outside the rock'n'roll scene.
The group finale of tailored coats and scarves also looked like an exercise in broadening the appeal of this youthful collection.
Slimane's 1970s-tinged womenswear collection for spring, his first for Saint Laurent, drew lukewarm reviews in October but a positive response from buyers.
On Sunday morning, Lanvin delivered its latest menswear collection. This featured classic long double-breasted coats in wool, oversized T-shirts with wide elbow-length sleeves, and every possible trouser shape, from wide and loose to narrow with zips at the ankles.
The palette mixed blues, from powder to navy, with pops of pink or mustard while finishing flourishes came via super-skinny ties, reflective portfolios, white space boots and some brilliant trainers. Balancing the wearable with catwalk fashion, this sleek offering felt like the label's greatest hits compilation.The palette mixed blues, from powder to navy, with pops of pink or mustard while finishing flourishes came via super-skinny ties, reflective portfolios, white space boots and some brilliant trainers. Balancing the wearable with catwalk fashion, this sleek offering felt like the label's greatest hits compilation.
After the show, Lanvin's creative director, Alber Elbaz, said the collection was about "revisiting classicism". Lanvin's menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, said: "We took all the classics and started changing the proportions. Making them shorter, wider, more narrow, then oversized, high-waist, drop-waist. After the show, Lanvin's creative director, Alber Elbaz, said it was about "revisiting classicism". Lanvin's menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, said: "We took all the classics and started changing the proportions. Making them shorter, wider, more narrow, then oversized, high-waist, drop-waist.
"During the fittings, it was not about is that a good image for a computer, which nowadays is how everybody looks at fashion, but instead what you'd want to keep and wear season after season." "During the fittings, … it was not about is that a good image for a computer, which nowadays is how everybody looks at fashion, but instead what you'd want to keep and wear season after season."
Ossendrijver also said that despite "marketing people" warning them off using too many materials in one item – for example the trainers – because of expensive production costs, luxury brands needed to push in this direction.Ossendrijver also said that despite "marketing people" warning them off using too many materials in one item – for example the trainers – because of expensive production costs, luxury brands needed to push in this direction.
"I think in luxury today we have to go all the way. If we don't, who does? That is what separates us from high street and fast fashion," he said."I think in luxury today we have to go all the way. If we don't, who does? That is what separates us from high street and fast fashion," he said.
On Sunday the British designer Paul Smith staged his latest offering at the Pompidou Centre in Paris. His colour-block suiting, fuzzy mohair jumpers and a blown-up houndstooth added splash to the catwalk. Meanwhile the British designer Paul Smith staged his latest collection at the Pompidou Centre. His colour-block suiting, fuzzy mohair jumpers and a blown-up houndstooth added splash to the catwalk.
Trends such as checks, animal patterns and short trousers were also ticked off. Smith, interviewed backstage, said: "It's hard to do something different that is still wearable."Trends such as checks, animal patterns and short trousers were also ticked off. Smith, interviewed backstage, said: "It's hard to do something different that is still wearable."