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Lanvin delivers menswear greatest hits ahead of Hedi Slimane debut Lanvin delivers menswear greatest hits ahead of Hedi Slimane debut
(about 1 hour later)
The autumn-winter 2013 season of menswear shows were due to come to a close on Sunday night at the Grand Palais in Paris with a much anticipated debut from Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. The autumn-winter 2013 season of menswear shows came to a close on Sunday night at the Grand Palais in Paris with an eagerly awaited debut from Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent.
Respected for his work at Dior Homme, Slimane is the designer many in the industry consider responsible for the development of the skinny aesthetic that has dominated men's fashion over the past decade. The Saint Laurent post is his first design role since he left Dior in 2007 to work full time as a photographer. Respected for his work at Dior Homme, Slimane is the designer many in the industry consider responsible for the development of the skinny aesthetic that has dominated men's fashion over the past decade. The Saint Laurent post is his first design role since he left Dior in 2007 to be a photographer.
His 1970s-tinged womenswear collection for spring, his first for the Yves Saint Laurent house, met with lukewarm reviews from editors last October but a positive response from buyers. His 1970s-tinged womenswear collection for spring, his first for the Yves Saint Laurent house, attracted lukewarm reviews from editors last October but a positive response from buyers.
On Sunday morning, Lanvin delivered their latest menswear collection, which featured classic long double-breasted coats in wool, oversized T-shirts with wide elbow-length sleeves and every possible trouser shape, from wide and loose, to narrow with zips at the ankles. On Sunday morning, Lanvin delivered its latest menswear collection. This featured classic, long, double-breasted coats in wool, oversized T-shirts with wide elbow-length sleeves, and every possible trouser shape, from wide and loose to narrow with zips at the ankles.
The colour palette mixed blues, from powder to navy, with pops of pink or mustard while finishing flourishes came via super skinny ties, reflective portfolios, white space boots and some brilliant trainers. Balancing the wearable with catwalk fashion, this sleek offering felt like a greatest hits compilation for the label. The palette mixed blues, from powder to navy, with pops of pink or mustard while finishing flourishes came via super-skinny ties, reflective portfolios, white space boots and some brilliant trainers. Balancing the wearable with catwalk fashion, this sleek offering felt like the label's greatest hits compilation.
After the show, creative director for the Parisian house Alber Elbaz said the collection was about "revisiting classicism". Its menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, said: "We took all the classics and started changing the proportions. Making them shorter, wider, more narrow, then oversized, high-waist, drop-waist. After the show, Lanvin's creative director, Alber Elbaz, said the collection was about "revisiting classicism". Lanvin's menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, said: "We took all the classics and started changing the proportions. Making them shorter, wider, more narrow, then oversized, high-waist, drop-waist.
"During the fittings, it was not about is that a good image for a computer, which nowadays is how everybody looks at fashion, but instead what would you want to keep and wear season after season." "During the fittings, it was not about is that a good image for a computer, which nowadays is how everybody looks at fashion, but instead what you'd want to keep and wear season after season."
Ossendrijver also said that despite "marketing people" warning them off of using too many materials in one item – for example the trainers – because of expensive production costs, luxury brands needed to push in this direction. Ossendrijver also said that despite "marketing people" warning them off using too many materials in one item – for example the trainers – because of expensive production costs, luxury brands needed to push in this direction.
"I think in luxury today we have to go all the way. If we don't, who does? That is what separates us from high street and fast fashion," he said."I think in luxury today we have to go all the way. If we don't, who does? That is what separates us from high street and fast fashion," he said.
British designer Paul Smith staged his latest offering at the Pompidou Centre on Sunday. Colour block suiting, fuzzy mohair jumpers and a blown up houndstooth added splash to the catwalk. On Sunday the British designer Paul Smith staged his latest offering at the Pompidou Centre in Paris. His colour-block suiting, fuzzy mohair jumpers and a blown-up houndstooth added splash to the catwalk.
Trends, such as checks, animal patterns and short trousers were also ticked off. Backstage Smith said: "It's hard to do something different that is still wearable." Trends such as checks, animal patterns and short trousers were also ticked off. Smith, interviewed backstage, said: "It's hard to do something different that is still wearable."