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| Version 1 | Version 2 |
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| An insider's cultural guide to Sofia: Tsars, trams and plays about Tupac | An insider's cultural guide to Sofia: Tsars, trams and plays about Tupac |
| (3 days later) | |
| Sofia in five words | Sofia in five words |
| Social behind a socialist facade | Social behind a socialist facade |
| Sound of the city | Sound of the city |
| Trams have been crisscrossing Sofia since 1901. By the look of them, you might think they’re the same ones (they are mostly old, yellow and clanking). Recently some tram lines have completely closed because of our two expanding metro lines, but downtown and in neighbourhoods such as Krasno Selo, the rumble of the old trams remains a steady part of the city’s soundtrack. It’s not exactly romantic, but there is a certain old-world charm to it. | Trams have been crisscrossing Sofia since 1901. By the look of them, you might think they’re the same ones (they are mostly old, yellow and clanking). Recently some tram lines have completely closed because of our two expanding metro lines, but downtown and in neighbourhoods such as Krasno Selo, the rumble of the old trams remains a steady part of the city’s soundtrack. It’s not exactly romantic, but there is a certain old-world charm to it. |
| Best current venue | Best current venue |
| Anything outdoors; Swimming Pool was an instant hit. Sofia’s latest space for contemporary art is located in a charming pre-war rooftop apartment with a mind-blowing 360-degree view of the city, and a real – albeit non-functioning – swimming pool. | Anything outdoors; Swimming Pool was an instant hit. Sofia’s latest space for contemporary art is located in a charming pre-war rooftop apartment with a mind-blowing 360-degree view of the city, and a real – albeit non-functioning – swimming pool. |
| The latter serves as a “blue cube” to host artistic projects and performances twice a year. The first exhibition, Balconia, was curated by Swimming Pool founder Viktoria Draganova. | |
| Who’s top of the playlist? | Who’s top of the playlist? |
| A true poet and master of social satire, Itzo Hazarta is not a new kid on the block. The founder and frontman of Bulgaria’s all-time favourite hip-hop group, Upsurt, has been around for more than 15 years now. Singing strictly in Sofia dialect, Upsurt achieved cult status thanks to their razor-sharp, hysterical and completely untranslatable lyrics referencing Bulgarian culture, current affairs and daily life. These days Itzo Hazarta continues in the same vein, but solo. | A true poet and master of social satire, Itzo Hazarta is not a new kid on the block. The founder and frontman of Bulgaria’s all-time favourite hip-hop group, Upsurt, has been around for more than 15 years now. Singing strictly in Sofia dialect, Upsurt achieved cult status thanks to their razor-sharp, hysterical and completely untranslatable lyrics referencing Bulgarian culture, current affairs and daily life. These days Itzo Hazarta continues in the same vein, but solo. |
| Best local artist | Best local artist |
| With a physics degree, a job in IT and school friends who were imprisoned or shot, Svetozar Georgiev – AKA ghostdog – is not your average poet. His poems are a unique blend of rhythm and slang, self-deprecation, humour and sensitivity. His plays, on the other hand, ponder existential matters such as the phases of post-breakup recovery, what office culture might be like in purgatory and the inner life of a Russian cosmonaut’s wife, with the characters ranging from Homer to Tupac Shakur, Darth Vader to Alan Turing. | With a physics degree, a job in IT and school friends who were imprisoned or shot, Svetozar Georgiev – AKA ghostdog – is not your average poet. His poems are a unique blend of rhythm and slang, self-deprecation, humour and sensitivity. His plays, on the other hand, ponder existential matters such as the phases of post-breakup recovery, what office culture might be like in purgatory and the inner life of a Russian cosmonaut’s wife, with the characters ranging from Homer to Tupac Shakur, Darth Vader to Alan Turing. |
| The look on the street | The look on the street |
| Sofia is not fashion-forward and you will rarely see avant garde or eccentric characters, but looks vary greatly, from chalga (a popular music genre based on Balkan rhythms, associated with simple lyrics and provocative clothes) to sporty and from hippy to hipster. Many women will only step out in full make-up and high heels. On the other hand, the cultural and creative communities take it easy in that understated, dressed-down Berlin way (a city some people say Sofia reminds them of). Western brands such as H&M and Zara prevail, mixed and matched with secondhand finds. Lately a number of original Bulgarian designer brands have cropped up – Shevitza for scarves, Serendipity for jewels, Bogdanin Brothers for leather bags, 45 Street for hats, and Garderob, Sassa Bjorg and Knapp for clothes. | Sofia is not fashion-forward and you will rarely see avant garde or eccentric characters, but looks vary greatly, from chalga (a popular music genre based on Balkan rhythms, associated with simple lyrics and provocative clothes) to sporty and from hippy to hipster. Many women will only step out in full make-up and high heels. On the other hand, the cultural and creative communities take it easy in that understated, dressed-down Berlin way (a city some people say Sofia reminds them of). Western brands such as H&M and Zara prevail, mixed and matched with secondhand finds. Lately a number of original Bulgarian designer brands have cropped up – Shevitza for scarves, Serendipity for jewels, Bogdanin Brothers for leather bags, 45 Street for hats, and Garderob, Sassa Bjorg and Knapp for clothes. |
| Comedy gold | Comedy gold |
| The latest comedy hit is actually a staged multimedia sequel of a cult TV show. Aired between 1992 and 2004, the much-loved political cabaret Ulitsata (The Street) was based on brilliant improvisations and sketches about the life of “small people” after the fall of communism. A whole generation grew up with it, memorising lines from the show. Twenty years later, director Tedi Moskov’s swan song did not disappoint loyal fans. | The latest comedy hit is actually a staged multimedia sequel of a cult TV show. Aired between 1992 and 2004, the much-loved political cabaret Ulitsata (The Street) was based on brilliant improvisations and sketches about the life of “small people” after the fall of communism. A whole generation grew up with it, memorising lines from the show. Twenty years later, director Tedi Moskov’s swan song did not disappoint loyal fans. |
| The best cultural Instagram | The best cultural Instagram |
| Boyscout is an online magazine, created originally as “a guide for young men with good manners”, but it has found a wider audience hungry for cultural media in a market where the only magazines are the Cosmos and the Playboys. Boyscout’s weekly selection of popular culture is solid, stylish and diverse, covering music, fashion, design, events and arts both from the local scene and internationally. | Boyscout is an online magazine, created originally as “a guide for young men with good manners”, but it has found a wider audience hungry for cultural media in a market where the only magazines are the Cosmos and the Playboys. Boyscout’s weekly selection of popular culture is solid, stylish and diverse, covering music, fashion, design, events and arts both from the local scene and internationally. |
| What’s the big talking point? | What’s the big talking point? |
| Monuments are always controversial in Bulgaria (we are still processing parts of our past), but three weeks ago the newly erected Bulgarian Tsar Samuil’s monument in central Sofia prompted a fierce war of words. Academics and intellectuals criticised the tacky glow-in-the-dark eyes, setting off a number of internet memes on the monument’s relation to Darth Vader. The pro camp said the critics were being unpatriotic and pretentious. The state failed to act and now the monument is there – not to honour Tsar Samuil, but as symbol of our society’s deficiencies. | Monuments are always controversial in Bulgaria (we are still processing parts of our past), but three weeks ago the newly erected Bulgarian Tsar Samuil’s monument in central Sofia prompted a fierce war of words. Academics and intellectuals criticised the tacky glow-in-the-dark eyes, setting off a number of internet memes on the monument’s relation to Darth Vader. The pro camp said the critics were being unpatriotic and pretentious. The state failed to act and now the monument is there – not to honour Tsar Samuil, but as symbol of our society’s deficiencies. |
| Moment in history? | Moment in history? |
| While in 2012 the joke went that Greek protesters carried banners reading, “Keep quiet, don’t wake up the Bulgarians”, in 2013 our civil society finally did wake up, and went out on the street to protest the government’s nepotism and corruption. The protests were accompanied by artistic performances and a spirit of hope that something was happening. The legacy is still debated (the government did change, but not as a direct result), but one thing the protests are credited for is shaking civil society out of its coma. | While in 2012 the joke went that Greek protesters carried banners reading, “Keep quiet, don’t wake up the Bulgarians”, in 2013 our civil society finally did wake up, and went out on the street to protest the government’s nepotism and corruption. The protests were accompanied by artistic performances and a spirit of hope that something was happening. The legacy is still debated (the government did change, but not as a direct result), but one thing the protests are credited for is shaking civil society out of its coma. |
| Best street art? | Best street art? |
| An artistic take on the cyrillic alphabet, 30bukvi (30 Letters) is a project by Bulgarian graphic designer Georgi Georgiev. He printed his visual interpretation of the cyrillic on ceramic tiles and then secretly plastered them on to the streets of Sofia the night before 24 May last year (Bulgarian Education and Culture, and Slavonic Literature Day). The project was a bid to celebrate the alphabet as a part of the nation’s identity. | An artistic take on the cyrillic alphabet, 30bukvi (30 Letters) is a project by Bulgarian graphic designer Georgi Georgiev. He printed his visual interpretation of the cyrillic on ceramic tiles and then secretly plastered them on to the streets of Sofia the night before 24 May last year (Bulgarian Education and Culture, and Slavonic Literature Day). The project was a bid to celebrate the alphabet as a part of the nation’s identity. |
| From me | From me |
| Bistra Andreeva is a literary translator, conference interpreter, culture journalist and Sofia fan. | Bistra Andreeva is a literary translator, conference interpreter, culture journalist and Sofia fan. |
| Five to follow | Five to follow |
| Studio Komplekt | Studio Komplekt |
| Yana Lozeva | Yana Lozeva |
| 12 Magazine | 12 Magazine |
| Quotes Magazine | Quotes Magazine |
| SocMus | SocMus |