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German mountain that symbolises freedom German mountain that symbolises freedom
(4 days later)
By Ray Kershaw BBC News, GermanyBy Ray Kershaw BBC News, Germany
The Berlin Wall came down in 1989The Berlin Wall came down in 1989
Seventeen years ago the Berlin Wall came down, reuniting East and West Germany. But an iconic German mountain, while not as symbolic as the wall, holds almost as much significance.Seventeen years ago the Berlin Wall came down, reuniting East and West Germany. But an iconic German mountain, while not as symbolic as the wall, holds almost as much significance.
Never had I seen so many people on a mountain. They came on foot, they came on bikes and by jingling horse-drawn buses. But mostly they came on the narrow gauge steam railway that, whistling and wheezing, discharged another eight packed carriages every 15 minutes.Never had I seen so many people on a mountain. They came on foot, they came on bikes and by jingling horse-drawn buses. But mostly they came on the narrow gauge steam railway that, whistling and wheezing, discharged another eight packed carriages every 15 minutes.
But then the Brocken for most Germans is no ordinary mountain. Not Germany's highest, but for centuries it has been a kind of magic mountain wrapped in myth and mystery - world venue for the witches' annual general orgy.But then the Brocken for most Germans is no ordinary mountain. Not Germany's highest, but for centuries it has been a kind of magic mountain wrapped in myth and mystery - world venue for the witches' annual general orgy.
Just across a wooded valley is its shorter twin, the Wurmberg, where 30 years before I had peered at the Brocken - then totally verboten except to armed East German guards.Just across a wooded valley is its shorter twin, the Wurmberg, where 30 years before I had peered at the Brocken - then totally verboten except to armed East German guards.
Bristling with antennae, no right-minded witch would have even flown near.Bristling with antennae, no right-minded witch would have even flown near.
PilgrimagePilgrimage
Conspicuous still between the two mountains is the swathe of open ground where for 500 miles ran the two electric fences with automatic guns that divided not just Germany but also the planet for 27 years.Conspicuous still between the two mountains is the swathe of open ground where for 500 miles ran the two electric fences with automatic guns that divided not just Germany but also the planet for 27 years.
Thousands make the pilgrimage to Brocken each yearThousands make the pilgrimage to Brocken each year
For most outsiders the enduring image of reunification is the crumbling Berlin Wall, but for millions of Germans freedom to roam their iconic mountain was the crowning culmination of an impossible dream.For most outsiders the enduring image of reunification is the crumbling Berlin Wall, but for millions of Germans freedom to roam their iconic mountain was the crowning culmination of an impossible dream.
On the weekend when the fences fell, around 100,000 people are thought to have gone up, and on any fine Sunday still thousands make the pilgrimage - perhaps two million annually - pausing for snapshots by the inscription on a boulder: "Der Brocken wieder frei (free again) 1989".On the weekend when the fences fell, around 100,000 people are thought to have gone up, and on any fine Sunday still thousands make the pilgrimage - perhaps two million annually - pausing for snapshots by the inscription on a boulder: "Der Brocken wieder frei (free again) 1989".
I thought of the Brocken crowds a few days later when we arrived in Mecklenburg Vorpommern, East Germany's old heartland, Chancellor Merkel's political base.I thought of the Brocken crowds a few days later when we arrived in Mecklenburg Vorpommern, East Germany's old heartland, Chancellor Merkel's political base.
It is Germany's least populated state, and everything is so different we keep thinking we have discovered not just another Germany but some delightful Ruritania.It is Germany's least populated state, and everything is so different we keep thinking we have discovered not just another Germany but some delightful Ruritania.
Everyone wants to know why we have come. They practise their English and stare at the oddity of our right-hand drive car.Everyone wants to know why we have come. They practise their English and stare at the oddity of our right-hand drive car.
In charming old towns houses to renovate start at £7,000 (10,000 euros). Rib-sticking meals cost as little as £3. The countless lakes and forests are like a pristine paradise. What could possibly be wrong here?In charming old towns houses to renovate start at £7,000 (10,000 euros). Rib-sticking meals cost as little as £3. The countless lakes and forests are like a pristine paradise. What could possibly be wrong here?
UnemploymentUnemployment
Martin Schmidt is 22 - a cheerful, suntanned lock-keeper. Surely it is Mecklenburg's pleasantest job?Martin Schmidt is 22 - a cheerful, suntanned lock-keeper. Surely it is Mecklenburg's pleasantest job?
An inscription on a boulder translates as "free again".An inscription on a boulder translates as "free again".
He says it is boring him silly, but he is lucky to have it. A qualified plumber, he has never had a proper job. In 1989 Martin was a schoolboy but sees the time before perhaps his parents' memories, as a kind of golden age.He says it is boring him silly, but he is lucky to have it. A qualified plumber, he has never had a proper job. In 1989 Martin was a schoolboy but sees the time before perhaps his parents' memories, as a kind of golden age.
You went to school, you went to college, then there was a job.You went to school, you went to college, then there was a job.
Unemployment here this year is 19% - Germany's highest. Most of his contemporaries have left for Hamburg or Berlin, but Martin's given up on Germany - "low wages, high taxes, benefits Sheisse" - and he dreams of going to Canada.Unemployment here this year is 19% - Germany's highest. Most of his contemporaries have left for Hamburg or Berlin, but Martin's given up on Germany - "low wages, high taxes, benefits Sheisse" - and he dreams of going to Canada.
Andreas Böckenheuer knows he has done well.Andreas Böckenheuer knows he has done well.
Twenty six at the Wende, as Germans call their great upheaval - meaning simply "The Change" - Andreas's building job disappeared with the fence.Twenty six at the Wende, as Germans call their great upheaval - meaning simply "The Change" - Andreas's building job disappeared with the fence.
In 1993 he thought of renting out canoes. Today he proudly owns 20 modern cabin cruisers. In his small town he is a major employer. He drives a brand new 4x4.In 1993 he thought of renting out canoes. Today he proudly owns 20 modern cabin cruisers. In his small town he is a major employer. He drives a brand new 4x4.
Yet even Andreas gets a bit wistful about the pre-Wende past. "In a way we had it good here. You felt very safe. We had the rivers and lakes. Sleep without worries. All really good friends."Yet even Andreas gets a bit wistful about the pre-Wende past. "In a way we had it good here. You felt very safe. We had the rivers and lakes. Sleep without worries. All really good friends."
Andreas then describes for us a surely unintentional yet successful homespun socialism where nobody had much but what they had they shared: A "borrow it" economy where if you needed something, even bricks or cement, you knew someone who knew someone. No-one ever refused, no one ever exploited you.Andreas then describes for us a surely unintentional yet successful homespun socialism where nobody had much but what they had they shared: A "borrow it" economy where if you needed something, even bricks or cement, you knew someone who knew someone. No-one ever refused, no one ever exploited you.
"Won't be like that for my kids," he says."Won't be like that for my kids," he says.
'Chasm''Chasm'
Andreas insists that Mecklenburg people are still very kind but he has seen the creeping selfishness as they struggle to cope with freedom's hard truths.Andreas insists that Mecklenburg people are still very kind but he has seen the creeping selfishness as they struggle to cope with freedom's hard truths.
Andreas is nostalgic for the days before the wall came downAndreas is nostalgic for the days before the wall came down
By coincidence it is Einheits Day - the Unity holiday.By coincidence it is Einheits Day - the Unity holiday.
The Berlinger Zeitung editorialises sternly about "the market forces that struck the east like a hurricane, sweeping away people's sense of security. Pure survival of the fittest. There's a new wall," says the paper, "now in people's heads."The Berlinger Zeitung editorialises sternly about "the market forces that struck the east like a hurricane, sweeping away people's sense of security. Pure survival of the fittest. There's a new wall," says the paper, "now in people's heads."
Not far away in Kiel at the official celebration - this year's theme "German unity unifies diversity" - Chancellor Merkel applauds the progress made in 16 years. While it is visibly a lot, she acknowledges "the chasm" - her choice of word - still between the two Germanys.Not far away in Kiel at the official celebration - this year's theme "German unity unifies diversity" - Chancellor Merkel applauds the progress made in 16 years. While it is visibly a lot, she acknowledges "the chasm" - her choice of word - still between the two Germanys.
For though everyone is trying, a recent eastern poll showed only 27% believed that their new democracy was working.For though everyone is trying, a recent eastern poll showed only 27% believed that their new democracy was working.
Back at the Brocken for three decades one of the strangest sights in Europe was the ski jump to nowhere.Back at the Brocken for three decades one of the strangest sights in Europe was the ski jump to nowhere.
Overhanging the fence, aimed at the east, any desperate defector from capitalist servitude could have soared like an eagle to socialist equality.Overhanging the fence, aimed at the east, any desperate defector from capitalist servitude could have soared like an eagle to socialist equality.
Of course, nobody tried - then the traffic went west. At this winter's world championship both the take off and landing are in the same state.Of course, nobody tried - then the traffic went west. At this winter's world championship both the take off and landing are in the same state.
But it is hard not to wonder if the fence was still there - though those witches might screech - how many East Germans would now be queuing to jump back.But it is hard not to wonder if the fence was still there - though those witches might screech - how many East Germans would now be queuing to jump back.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 2 November, 2006 at 1100 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 2 November, 2006 at 1100 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.