The insider's cultural guide to Thimphu: Chilli, cheese, alcohol, music, archery

http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2015/may/04/insider-cultural-guide-thimphu-bhutan

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Thimphu’s culture in five words

Chilli, cheese, alcohol, music, archery.

Sound of the city

The sound of barking dogs is Thimphu’s signature noise. Locals feed the strays which means they are well-looked after. It also means we have a lot of them.

Everyone’s tuning into …

Everyone is watching Druk Superstar, which is a reality show like American Idol on the national broadcaster, the Bhutan Broadcasting Service. The show’s in its fourth season now. Young people from all over the country sing to win the coveted title of Superstar.

Best current venue

Mojo Park is a live music lounge that has bands playing every Friday and Saturday. Mondays are open mic nights where anyone can sing. Due to its casual ambience, people from all age groups are seen here.

Opened in 2011 by three men: Kinley Wangchuk, Tensin Drakpa, and Karma Yoesel to promote local talent, Mojo Park has also invited international acts. It is the most popular lounge to hang out at on the weekends and on Wednesdays.

Bhutanese law identifies Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays as entertainment nights and allows bars/ lounges to stay open till midnight. Tuesday is a “dry day” when the sale of alcohol is prohibited. The lounge is, however, open seven days a week.

Who’s top of the playlist?

Misty Terrace is the flavour of the moment. They could be the most-covered band in Bhutan. They burst on to the scene two years ago, and are still enjoying their moment in the sun with their latest single ‘Nge Thimphu’.

Known for their melodious contemporary Bhutanese songs (they fit into the “Rigsar” category - a genre of Bhutanese music) Misty Terrace are an all Bhutanese five-member band that have played together since college. The lead singer, Tandin Wangchuk, says their name is a direct reference to the uplifting experience of good melodies.

Favourite local artist

Karma Wangdi aka Asha Karma is the father of contemporary Bhutanese art. He founded the Voluntary Artists’ Studio (VAST) as a space for art, and for the teaching of art in the early 90s. Several young people who studied at the studio are now among the country’s most prominent contemporary artists.

Karma was awarded the National Order of Merit (Gold) by the King of Bhutan in 2010 for his voluntary work benefiting hundreds of Bhutanese children.

The look on the street

Bhutan’s most popular fashion blog is managed by Karma Tshering Wangchuk, who graduated from India’s premier fashion institute, the National Institute of Fashion and Technology. The blog was created in 2010 because Karma wanted to show the world that the Bhutanese were not dressing “strangely” just because we had been isolated for so long.

Karma gets hate mail from traditionalists when he posts pictures of evolving Bhutanese fashion tastes. Critics say it isn’t Bhutanese, but he argues that he only puts up what he sees. His photographs are rarely directed, and are mostly of people he randomly spots in the street.

Best cultural Instagram

Filmmaker Kencho Tenzin best shows the cultural mood of the city. He uses the splash effect to give a unique touch to his pictures.

What’s the big talking point?

Everyone is talking about the inaugural Royal Bhutan Flower Exhibition which was held last month at the Ugyen Pelri Palace grounds in Paro, an hour’s drive from Thimphu. The exhibition will now be an annual feature as requested by the King of Bhutan who has said: “Where we live must be clean, safe, organised and beautiful, for national integrity, national pride and for our bright future. This too is nation building.”

Thimphu’s greatest moment

Thimphu’s greatest social moment was our World Cup qualifier home game against Sri Lanka in March. As it was the first time Bhutan had reached such a stage in a World Cup, it seemed like the entire city turned up to support the national team. The stadium was filled to its capacity, and the city saw its first Mexican wave too. Bhutanese fans went home euphoric after their side beat Sri Lanka a second time to make it to the group stage of the World Cup qualifiers.

Best street art

This is the work of artist Chand Bhattarai. It’s his interpretation of the country’s development philosophy: Gross National Happiness.

From me

Namgay Zam is a freelance journalist - more heart than head. Follow her on Twitter @namgayzam and on Facebook here.

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