By Finlo Rohrer BBC News Magazine With a Mormon vying to be the Republican candidate for president, all eyes in the church's heartlands will be on the primaries, but one of those heartlands is Chorley in Lancashire.
By Finlo Rohrer BBC News Magazine With a Mormon vying to be the Republican candidate for president, all eyes in the church's heartlands will be on the primaries, but one of those heartlands is Chorley in Lancashire.
Driving down the M61 in west Lancashire one is struck by an extraordinary sight.
Driving down the M61 in west Lancashire one is struck by an extraordinary sight.
On the edge of Chorley, nestled near the motorway, is a gleaming off-white church-like building, a sharp spire topped with a gold angel.
On the edge of Chorley, nestled near the motorway, is a gleaming off-white church-like building, a sharp spire topped with a gold angel.
But this is not a church, its lines are not that of a Norman chapel or a Gothic masterpiece. This religious building takes its cue from Salt Lake City, Utah. It is the main North West base of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, perhaps better known as the Mormons.
But this is not a church, its lines are not that of a Norman chapel or a Gothic masterpiece. This religious building takes its cue from Salt Lake City, Utah. It is the main North West base of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, perhaps better known as the Mormons.
MORMONS IN THE UK 190,000 membersFirst landed at Liverpool in 1837Oldest branch in PrestonNew chapel every two months4,900 new missionaries trained at Chorley since 1998
MORMONS IN THE UK 190,000 membersFirst landed at Liverpool in 1837Oldest branch in PrestonNew chapel every two months4,900 new missionaries trained at Chorley since 1998
Republican Presidential nominee Mitt Romney's religion means all things Mormon have been more in the news than usual. But how many people know that the Mormons' association with the North West of England goes back further than their association with Salt Lake City?
Republican Presidential nominee Mitt Romney's religion means all things Mormon have been more in the news than usual. But how many people know that the Mormons' association with the North West of England goes back further than their association with Salt Lake City?
The oldest surviving branch of the church is not in the US, but in Preston. And at nearby Chorley, the church has one of its two UK temples as well as its missionary training centre.
The oldest surviving branch of the church is not in the US, but in Preston. And at nearby Chorley, the church has one of its two UK temples as well as its missionary training centre.
This is the place where the clean-cut young men and women who turn up on doorsteps around Britain every day get their grounding in spreading the word. Since it opened in 1998, it has churned out 4,900 missionaries, only half of them from the US or Canada.
This is the place where the clean-cut young men and women who turn up on doorsteps around Britain every day get their grounding in spreading the word. Since it opened in 1998, it has churned out 4,900 missionaries, only half of them from the US or Canada.
Christian dispute
Christian dispute
While the temple at Chorley obviously has a definite religious - if slightly space age - feel, the plain brick buildings that surround it look more like a £39 a night motorway travel tavern than anything ecclesiastical.
While the temple at Chorley obviously has a definite religious - if slightly space age - feel, the plain brick buildings that surround it look more like a £39 a night motorway travel tavern than anything ecclesiastical.
And many of those locals who pass by have little idea of the exact nature of the religious grouping behind their doors.
And many of those locals who pass by have little idea of the exact nature of the religious grouping behind their doors.
Members of the church categorise themselves as Christians, although many in the Catholic, Protestant and Orthodox traditions have little truck with them.
Members of the church categorise themselves as Christians, although many in the Catholic, Protestant and Orthodox traditions have little truck with them.
Mitt Romney has put Mormonism in the public eye
Mitt Romney has put Mormonism in the public eye
But if ordinary people know one thing about the Mormons, it's polygamy. The mere mention of the word sees a flicker of momentary discomfort pass across the faces of members, before they patiently explain the practice of having more than one wife was outlawed by the church in 1890.
But if ordinary people know one thing about the Mormons, it's polygamy. The mere mention of the word sees a flicker of momentary discomfort pass across the faces of members, before they patiently explain the practice of having more than one wife was outlawed by the church in 1890.
MORMONISM God, Jesus and Holy Spirit are separate entitiesFounder Joseph Smith a prophetBook of Mormon last testament of BibleBaptism of deadEmigration from Middle East to America in 600 BCNo longer practise polygamy
But Mormons don't get upset when you ask them to tackle certain accusations that float around on the internet.
But Mormons don't get upset when you ask them to tackle certain accusations that float around on the internet.
President Dean Richard Sorensen, a twinkly-eyed Mormon from Palm Springs, who heads the missionary training centre at Chorley, is all smiles as he dismisses the notion that Mormons are made to keep massive stocks of tinned goods in their home as insurance against the Apocalypse.
President Dean Richard Sorensen, a twinkly-eyed Mormon from Palm Springs, who heads the missionary training centre at Chorley, is all smiles as he dismisses the notion that Mormons are made to keep massive stocks of tinned goods in their home as insurance against the Apocalypse.
"We have a year's supply of food and other essentials. That is not to do with the end of the world. Every family comes on hard times and we believe it is prudent to prepare."
"We have a year's supply of food and other essentials. That is not to do with the end of the world. Every family comes on hard times and we believe it is prudent to prepare."
Two-year mission
MORMONISM God, Jesus and Holy Spirit are separate entitiesFounder Joseph Smith a prophetBook of Mormon is a last testament of BibleBaptism for the deadEmigration from Middle East to America in 600 BCNo longer practise polygamy
But ask anyone about Romney and you get a poker face. With the church having a strict doctrine of political neutrality, endorsement, even of the personal kind, is out of the question.
But ask anyone about Romney and you get a poker face. With the church having a strict doctrine of political neutrality, endorsement, even of the personal kind, is out of the question.
Their missionaries stick to religious matters. President Sorensen describes them thus.
Their missionaries stick to religious matters. President Sorensen describes them thus.
"Their hair is cut and they are very clean and wholesome-looking. They are to live the commandments."
"Their hair is cut and they are very clean and wholesome-looking. They are to live the commandments."
PRACTICES Do not smoke or drink alcoholTea and coffee also forbiddenGive 10% of earnings to churchHomosexual sex forbiddenParishes called wards or congregationDioceses called stakesWomen cannot be priests, but can work as missionaries
PRACTICES Do not smoke or drink alcoholTea and coffee also forbiddenGive 10% of earnings to churchHomosexual sex forbiddenParishes called wards or congregationDioceses called stakesWomen cannot be priests, but can work as missionaries
Typically aged between 19-21 for the men and 21 up for the women, they spend three weeks here before embarking on a two-year mission.
Typically aged between 19-21 for the men and 21 up for the women, they spend three weeks here before embarking on a two-year mission.
Paul Crapo, 21, is typical of those passing through the training centre. Clear-skinned, upstanding and besuited, a smiling paragon of all things Mormon. A senator's son from Idaho, he is currently pounding the streets of Manchester.
Paul Crapo, 21, is typical of those passing through the training centre. Clear-skinned, upstanding and besuited, a smiling paragon of all things Mormon. A senator's son from Idaho, he is currently pounding the streets of Manchester.
"Every time I tell people about Jesus Christ, there's nothing like that feeling. It puts a fire inside you," he says.
"Every time I tell people about Jesus Christ, there's nothing like that feeling. It puts a fire inside you," he says.
"I've been slapped in the face, I've been knocked on my head - a bit of physical, a bit of verbal abuse. It doesn't get me down. The thing which is the hardest is when people feel the same kind of spirit and decide to reject it."
"I've been slapped in the face, I've been knocked on my head - a bit of physical, a bit of verbal abuse. It doesn't get me down. The thing which is the hardest is when people feel the same kind of spirit and decide to reject it."
But what of the sacrifices of Mormon life? While their peers in the US and UK are enjoying weekends of inebriated hedonism, these young people accept a life not just without alcohol and tobacco, but without the possibility of tea and coffee, all forbidden by the church.
But what of the sacrifices of Mormon life? While their peers in the US and UK are enjoying weekends of inebriated hedonism, these young people accept a life not just without alcohol and tobacco, but without the possibility of tea and coffee, all forbidden by the church.
Mormons have been in Lancashire since 1937
Mormons have been in Lancashire since 1937
Matthew Robinson, 22, from Sheffield, shrugs off the notion that he is enduring some sort of privation in missing out on an alcopop binge every Friday.
Matthew Robinson, 22, from Sheffield, shrugs off the notion that he is enduring some sort of privation in missing out on an alcopop binge every Friday.
"The reasons I follow the guidelines is because I know it's true. Because I know it's true it alters the way I behave," he says.
"The reasons I follow the guidelines is because I know it's true. Because I know it's true it alters the way I behave," he says.
And his fellow missionary, 20-year-old Derek Hull from Oregon is even more emphatic in his belief in a clean life.
And his fellow missionary, 20-year-old Derek Hull from Oregon is even more emphatic in his belief in a clean life.
"I have a friend in jail, I have a friend that has got several girls pregnant I have a friend that was arrested and kicked out of school for selling cocaine."
"I have a friend in jail, I have a friend that has got several girls pregnant I have a friend that was arrested and kicked out of school for selling cocaine."
Dorm messages invite occupants to consider the spirit in all their thoughts and actions and "wear proper clothing".
Dorm messages invite occupants to consider the spirit in all their thoughts and actions and "wear proper clothing".
The temple here at Chorley is not a destination for day-trippers. It is not a cathedral, even members will only visit after being given a written "recommend". But some other parts of the complex are open to the non-Mormon population, and particularly the family history centre. The church is a major player in the genealogy sector because of its belief in the baptism of the dead.
The temple here at Chorley is not a destination for day-trippers. It is not a cathedral, even members will only visit after being given a written "recommend". But some other parts of the complex are open to the non-Mormon population, and particularly the family history centre. The church is a major player in the genealogy sector because of its belief in the baptism of the dead.
Reserved Britons
Reserved Britons
In an office there is a corporate-type slogan, encouraging members with the words "Let's all work to grow the stake". Stake is the Mormon equivalent for a diocese, a grouping of wards or congregations, which are the equivalent of parishes.
In an office there is a corporate-type slogan, encouraging members with the words "Let's all work to grow the stake". Stake is the Mormon equivalent for a diocese, a grouping of wards or congregations, which are the equivalent of parishes.
And the parallels with business continue in the training centre. The casual observer might see something of their sales pitch buried in their manner. And at least a small part of their training covers how to deal with British reserve while getting all of the message across.
And the parallels with business continue in the training centre. The casual observer might see something of their sales pitch buried in their manner. And at least a small part of their training covers how to deal with British reserve while getting all of the message across.
Missionaries sit in a mock-up of a living room, a camera pointed squarely at their head, practising what they would like to preach on two church members pretending to be receptive unbelievers. The footage is then analysed in adjacent observation rooms.
Missionaries sit in a mock-up of a living room, a camera pointed squarely at their head, practising what they would like to preach on two church members pretending to be receptive unbelievers. The footage is then analysed in adjacent observation rooms.
Missionaries are typically young, clean-cut and clad in suits
Missionaries are typically young, clean-cut and clad in suits
But the church's affable public affairs manager David Fewster is adamant that the church, despite its thorough organisation, hefty funding and rapid growth has nothing in common with a business.
But the church's affable public affairs manager David Fewster is adamant that the church, despite its thorough organisation, hefty funding and rapid growth has nothing in common with a business.
"We will never be in a situation where we teach missionaries to get their foot in the door," he argues. "They are not salesmen, they speak to people who are genuinely interested."
"We will never be in a situation where we teach missionaries to get their foot in the door," he argues. "They are not salesmen, they speak to people who are genuinely interested."
And the church now has a massive presence in Britain. In the 19th Century members usually emigrated to the US, throwing up strange streets of Lancashire terraces in the heart of Utah. But from the 1960s the pattern has been for converts to remain and the church has now grown to 190,000 members in the UK.A chapel is built every other month in the UK.
And the church now has a massive presence in Britain. In the 19th Century members usually emigrated to the US, throwing up strange streets of Lancashire terraces in the heart of Utah. But from the 1960s the pattern has been for converts to remain and the church has now grown to 190,000 members in the UK.A chapel is built every other month in the UK.
The church also has influence in the agricultural sector, owning 16,000 acres of farmland, much of it concentrated in East Anglia and focused on raising funds for charitable programmes.
The church also has influence in the agricultural sector, owning 16,000 acres of farmland, much of it concentrated in East Anglia and focused on raising funds for charitable programmes.
But the impression it leaves on its non-Mormon neighbours in surrounding Chorley seems generally to be a good one. Walk around in the immediate vicinity of the temple complex and you struggle to hear a bad word for the church.
But the impression it leaves on its non-Mormon neighbours in surrounding Chorley seems generally to be a good one. Walk around in the immediate vicinity of the temple complex and you struggle to hear a bad word for the church.
At the nearby Hartwood pub, barmaid Joanne Callander says they are good customers. Fruit juice is all they quaff, but "they're just really nice and pleasant".
At the nearby Hartwood pub, barmaid Joanne Callander says they are good customers. Fruit juice is all they quaff, but "they're just really nice and pleasant".
Customer Tony Knight, who sports a ring indicating membership of an organisation that has had its own problems with PR, the Freemasons, speaks of "absolutely marvellous boys".
Customer Tony Knight, who sports a ring indicating membership of an organisation that has had its own problems with PR, the Freemasons, speaks of "absolutely marvellous boys".
All in all it seems many in Chorley barely notice their Mormon neighbours, but despite this unobtrusive presence, the church continues its march in the UK.
All in all it seems many in Chorley barely notice their Mormon neighbours, but despite this unobtrusive presence, the church continues its march in the UK.