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| Kamchatka, Home to Russian Version of Alaska Iditarod, Frets Over Growth | Kamchatka, Home to Russian Version of Alaska Iditarod, Frets Over Growth |
| (about 5 hours later) | |
| PETROPAVLOVSK-KAMCHATSKY, Russia — When Vladislav Revenok, an Orthodox priest, first participated in the obscure Russian version of Alaska’s Iditarod, he found himself in places so isolated that he was mobbed by villagers demanding to be baptized. They told him he was the first priest to visit the outback of the already remote Kamchatka Peninsula in about 50 years. | |
| “Only a few small villages see us,” Mr. Revenok, a veteran musher, said by telephone after finishing the arduous, 17-day race in late March. “When I arrive at the finish line, and see all those people waiting — journalists, the crowd, so many cars — I feel like I am arriving back on a different planet.” | “Only a few small villages see us,” Mr. Revenok, a veteran musher, said by telephone after finishing the arduous, 17-day race in late March. “When I arrive at the finish line, and see all those people waiting — journalists, the crowd, so many cars — I feel like I am arriving back on a different planet.” |
| Kamchatka’s very isolation once afforded a measure of protection for its astounding beauty: a crown of 300 volcanoes including around 25 that are still active; a central valley of erupting geysers; rivers so red and so thick with spawning salmon that walking on water seems distinctly possible; oceans inhabited by crabs the size of turkeys. | Kamchatka’s very isolation once afforded a measure of protection for its astounding beauty: a crown of 300 volcanoes including around 25 that are still active; a central valley of erupting geysers; rivers so red and so thick with spawning salmon that walking on water seems distinctly possible; oceans inhabited by crabs the size of turkeys. |
| Even many locals do not know the peninsula that well. About 80 percent of the population lives in three southern cities. But isolation no longer provides the same insurance. Kamchatka is caught between ambitious plans to develop untapped resources like gold and oil, and efforts to preserve its natural splendor. | Even many locals do not know the peninsula that well. About 80 percent of the population lives in three southern cities. But isolation no longer provides the same insurance. Kamchatka is caught between ambitious plans to develop untapped resources like gold and oil, and efforts to preserve its natural splendor. |
| Oil exploration has started in the Sea of Okhotsk, which separates the peninsula from mainland Russia, and the first natural gas wells now operate onshore. Two gold mines are already working, and 10 more are in the planning stages. | |
| Local officials want Petropavlovsk to become the main transit harbor for hulking container ships that can deflect ice as they ply the Arctic route between China and Europe. In addition, the government is trying to raise the number of tourists to 300,000 from 40,000 annually. | Local officials want Petropavlovsk to become the main transit harbor for hulking container ships that can deflect ice as they ply the Arctic route between China and Europe. In addition, the government is trying to raise the number of tourists to 300,000 from 40,000 annually. |
| Skeptics worry that the development plans threaten to overwhelm what amounts to a giant nature preserve about 750 miles long and 300 miles across at its widest point. | Skeptics worry that the development plans threaten to overwhelm what amounts to a giant nature preserve about 750 miles long and 300 miles across at its widest point. |
| “The territory is not as big as Alaska,” said Sergey Rafanov, the director of the World Wildlife Fund’s local branch. “Everything is compact here, and the interests of these various industries conflict. If you want to dog sled or to see volcanoes, will you come if there is a huge iron processing plant on the Pacific shore with two smokestacks?” | “The territory is not as big as Alaska,” said Sergey Rafanov, the director of the World Wildlife Fund’s local branch. “Everything is compact here, and the interests of these various industries conflict. If you want to dog sled or to see volcanoes, will you come if there is a huge iron processing plant on the Pacific shore with two smokestacks?” |
| The problem, he said, is the lack of a master plan. Since the local government depends solely on federal funds, it is never sure which projects might be funded and hence plans each in isolation. | The problem, he said, is the lack of a master plan. Since the local government depends solely on federal funds, it is never sure which projects might be funded and hence plans each in isolation. |
| Senior government officials vow to reconcile the competing demands. | Senior government officials vow to reconcile the competing demands. |
| “The quality of life of our population depends on the caliber of the protection measures. Why would we cut off the branch on which we are sitting?” said Vladimir M. Galitsin, the minister of fisheries and the deputy chairman of the Kamchatka government. “A sensible balance can be reached that both safeguards the natural resources and allows for the exploitation of various deposits.” | “The quality of life of our population depends on the caliber of the protection measures. Why would we cut off the branch on which we are sitting?” said Vladimir M. Galitsin, the minister of fisheries and the deputy chairman of the Kamchatka government. “A sensible balance can be reached that both safeguards the natural resources and allows for the exploitation of various deposits.” |
| Environmentalists have doubts. Populations of the largest bears and big-horned sheep have already been decimated, they said, because trophy hunters from the United States and Europe were unleashed without regulations. A black market for Kamchatka falcons fetches $50,000 per bird in the Persian Gulf nations, Mr. Rafanov said. | Environmentalists have doubts. Populations of the largest bears and big-horned sheep have already been decimated, they said, because trophy hunters from the United States and Europe were unleashed without regulations. A black market for Kamchatka falcons fetches $50,000 per bird in the Persian Gulf nations, Mr. Rafanov said. |
| In Soviet times, Kamchatka was a naval base closed to foreigners. After the 1991 collapse of the Soviet Union, the population gradually ebbed, dropping by around a third, to 300,000. | In Soviet times, Kamchatka was a naval base closed to foreigners. After the 1991 collapse of the Soviet Union, the population gradually ebbed, dropping by around a third, to 300,000. |
| To stem that flow, Kamchatka needs jobs and critical infrastructure, like an independent energy source. Volcanic steam powers a rare geothermal electric plant, but that supplies only 30 percent of local needs. The largest development schemes are likely to be shelved because of federal budget problems following a collapse in global oil prices. | To stem that flow, Kamchatka needs jobs and critical infrastructure, like an independent energy source. Volcanic steam powers a rare geothermal electric plant, but that supplies only 30 percent of local needs. The largest development schemes are likely to be shelved because of federal budget problems following a collapse in global oil prices. |
| Fish, salmon roe and crabs constitute Kamchatka’s most famous exports. Strained relations with the West and Japan meant foreign sales were down by a third, to 200,000 metric tons, out of nearly 900,000 metric tons produced last year, Mr. Galitsin said. Kamchatkans hope that the Kremlin’s retaliatory economic sanctions banning salmon and other fish from places like Norway will increase demand for their products in western Russia. | |
| The problem is distance. In the time before planes and trains, it could take a year to reach Kamchatka from Moscow. These days, logistical and bureaucratic hurdles still make it impossible to move fresh fish to western Russia on a regular basis. | The problem is distance. In the time before planes and trains, it could take a year to reach Kamchatka from Moscow. These days, logistical and bureaucratic hurdles still make it impossible to move fresh fish to western Russia on a regular basis. |
| It has been said that Kamchatka is so far east of Moscow that it is practically west. The nine-hour flight from Moscow lasts almost three times longer than flights from Anchorage. (Those run only in the summer.) | |
| It is little wonder, then, that Kamchatkans look to Alaska for inspiration for everything from building a tourism industry to making protective bootees for their sled dogs. | It is little wonder, then, that Kamchatkans look to Alaska for inspiration for everything from building a tourism industry to making protective bootees for their sled dogs. |
| “The land, the nature, the traditions, the dogs, it is all so close, they share the same roots, and you know that Alaska used to be Russia,” said Alexei Sitnikov, the owner of the Siberian Fang Kennel and an ecotourism company. An eight-foot, arched whale rib leaning against the front of the kennel came from a northern beach littered with them, he said. | “The land, the nature, the traditions, the dogs, it is all so close, they share the same roots, and you know that Alaska used to be Russia,” said Alexei Sitnikov, the owner of the Siberian Fang Kennel and an ecotourism company. An eight-foot, arched whale rib leaning against the front of the kennel came from a northern beach littered with them, he said. |
| The annual Beringia dog sled race was conceived 25 years ago as Russia’s answer to the Iditarod, but it has never attracted the same international following. The red tape and cost involved in transporting sled dogs to Kamchatka through Moscow is prohibitive, organizers said, and until last year first prize was only a Russian off-road vehicle. | The annual Beringia dog sled race was conceived 25 years ago as Russia’s answer to the Iditarod, but it has never attracted the same international following. The red tape and cost involved in transporting sled dogs to Kamchatka through Moscow is prohibitive, organizers said, and until last year first prize was only a Russian off-road vehicle. |
| The race was named after a legendary land mass said to have once linked the region to Alaska, allowing indigenous people to transit freely. Kamchatka’s indigenous population currently numbers about 15,000. | The race was named after a legendary land mass said to have once linked the region to Alaska, allowing indigenous people to transit freely. Kamchatka’s indigenous population currently numbers about 15,000. |
| During the Klondike gold rush in the late 19th century, Siberian dogs were cherished for their strength and resilience, despite their small stature, Mr. Sitnikov said. Now, the most valued dogs come the other way. | During the Klondike gold rush in the late 19th century, Siberian dogs were cherished for their strength and resilience, despite their small stature, Mr. Sitnikov said. Now, the most valued dogs come the other way. |
| The Soviet Union turned native villages into collective farms and banned their dogs as backward — appalled not least that the canines were fed salmon, a hard-to-find delicacy in Moscow. | The Soviet Union turned native villages into collective farms and banned their dogs as backward — appalled not least that the canines were fed salmon, a hard-to-find delicacy in Moscow. |
| In addition, people here long valued dogs for their skills. “Once I had a dog who could even catch fish,” said Mr. Sitnikov, who now breeds dogs for speed, like those from Alaska. | In addition, people here long valued dogs for their skills. “Once I had a dog who could even catch fish,” said Mr. Sitnikov, who now breeds dogs for speed, like those from Alaska. |
| Probably more Americans know Kamchatka as a territory in Risk, the board game, than an actual place. Kamchatka’s effort to attract more foreigners despite the current Cold War-like chill includes a slick new English guidebook brimming with useful information like how to survive a surprise encounter with a bear. “Stay calm,” is point one. | Probably more Americans know Kamchatka as a territory in Risk, the board game, than an actual place. Kamchatka’s effort to attract more foreigners despite the current Cold War-like chill includes a slick new English guidebook brimming with useful information like how to survive a surprise encounter with a bear. “Stay calm,” is point one. |
| The Beringia starts with a one-day exhibition event held on a groomed racetrack near the capital because the starting point of the main 590-mile race can be difficult to reach. | The Beringia starts with a one-day exhibition event held on a groomed racetrack near the capital because the starting point of the main 590-mile race can be difficult to reach. |
| Few roads cross the northern part of the peninsula, and helicopter charters cost more than $5,000 a day. | |
| Kamchatka also produces savage, unpredictable weather. After a particularly snowy February, the city manager was fired for not clearing the streets fast enough. Colossal snow banks lined every road. | |
| “We prefer not to mention and not even to think about the weather,” quipped Mr. Sitnikov when asked for a forecast. | “We prefer not to mention and not even to think about the weather,” quipped Mr. Sitnikov when asked for a forecast. |
| The exhibition event included a children’s race. One contestant, Ksenia Kasatkina, 16, is raising four sizable dogs in a three-room apartment and dreams of competing in the Beringia after she turns 18. | The exhibition event included a children’s race. One contestant, Ksenia Kasatkina, 16, is raising four sizable dogs in a three-room apartment and dreams of competing in the Beringia after she turns 18. |
| “It is a good sport in a place where we have snow for about nine months of the year,” said her mother, Julya Daoudrich. “Even when it melts in town, in July we can take the dogs and the sleds to the slopes of the volcano.” | “It is a good sport in a place where we have snow for about nine months of the year,” said her mother, Julya Daoudrich. “Even when it melts in town, in July we can take the dogs and the sleds to the slopes of the volcano.” |