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| Notes from the changing room: behind the scenes with Mad Men's costume designer | Notes from the changing room: behind the scenes with Mad Men's costume designer |
| (about 1 hour later) | |
| Less than a decade has passed since fashion went from a new century’s style uncertainty and aimlessness to the crisp, mid-century style epitomized in Mad Men. But it was more than that. It was the ideals, mishaps and conceits of an era past as seen through the lens of a more modern and discerning eye – in this case Mad Men’s costume designer, Janie Bryant. And as the show draws to a close Bryant shared her thoughts on redesigning and redefining the look and feel of an era through fabric and color, and why people still want to look like Don Draper. | Less than a decade has passed since fashion went from a new century’s style uncertainty and aimlessness to the crisp, mid-century style epitomized in Mad Men. But it was more than that. It was the ideals, mishaps and conceits of an era past as seen through the lens of a more modern and discerning eye – in this case Mad Men’s costume designer, Janie Bryant. And as the show draws to a close Bryant shared her thoughts on redesigning and redefining the look and feel of an era through fabric and color, and why people still want to look like Don Draper. |
| How does it feel to be at the end of an era? | How does it feel to be at the end of an era? |
| We finished shooting in July and I wrapped out with my team in August, and I was out of the Mad Men costume shop in August. I definitely had my mourning period then. With the premiere of the show (5 April on AMC) I’m going to be reliving the mourning period again and it feels very strange. Mad Men has been eight years of my life. It’s been a huge undertaking and accomplishment being part of 92 hours of probably the greatest television ever. And I can say that because Matthew Weiner and the writers continue to inspire me with every single season and every single episode. | |
| Mad Men style has had such a tremendous impact on modern popular style. Do you have any thoughts on why people were all so ready to embrace retro styles? | Mad Men style has had such a tremendous impact on modern popular style. Do you have any thoughts on why people were all so ready to embrace retro styles? |
| It’s such an interesting question and an interesting subject to dissect. And I really think it’s because when Mad Men first aired American fashion, and fashion in general, had been so casual for so long. I think people saw the show and were inspired to dress up. And not only the women, but the men. I think men and women responded to the show and they thought: “The 60s, it’s such a cool era.” | It’s such an interesting question and an interesting subject to dissect. And I really think it’s because when Mad Men first aired American fashion, and fashion in general, had been so casual for so long. I think people saw the show and were inspired to dress up. And not only the women, but the men. I think men and women responded to the show and they thought: “The 60s, it’s such a cool era.” |
| TV has such power and when people are so inspired by a TV show. These characters come into people’s homes once a week. I feel that not only was the audience inspired by the fashion in general, but inspired to become the characters specifically. People asked: “How do I look like Don Draper or how do I look like Joan or how do I look like Betty?” | TV has such power and when people are so inspired by a TV show. These characters come into people’s homes once a week. I feel that not only was the audience inspired by the fashion in general, but inspired to become the characters specifically. People asked: “How do I look like Don Draper or how do I look like Joan or how do I look like Betty?” |
| I remember I was doing a panel at UCLA with Matthew Weiner, production designer Dan Bishop, Chris Manley the cinematographer and a couple of their people. This young man raising his hand and I thought he was going to ask Matthew Weiner a question. But then he asked if he could ask Janie a question: “How can I look like Don Draper?” This was a college student used to running around in T-shirts and jeans. For whatever reason it was a perfect time and space people saw the show and were inspired by the visual elements of the show. | I remember I was doing a panel at UCLA with Matthew Weiner, production designer Dan Bishop, Chris Manley the cinematographer and a couple of their people. This young man raising his hand and I thought he was going to ask Matthew Weiner a question. But then he asked if he could ask Janie a question: “How can I look like Don Draper?” This was a college student used to running around in T-shirts and jeans. For whatever reason it was a perfect time and space people saw the show and were inspired by the visual elements of the show. |
| What are some of your own design and style influences? And do you feel it comes across in the designs on the show? | What are some of your own design and style influences? And do you feel it comes across in the designs on the show? |
| I would say when I was growing up my grandmother definitely inspired me and my mother too. My grandmother was always designing her amazing outfits and she had a huge apron collection to go with every single dress she wore. She had a Christmas apron and a Thanksgiving apron. And my grandfather. I come from a southern textile family during the Don Draper era complete with three-martini lunches and lots and lots of cigarettes. My grandmother entertained a lot. She was beautiful. I visited her and we would go to the beauty parlor and we would play paper dolls together. I was obsessed with Madame Alexander dolls. | I would say when I was growing up my grandmother definitely inspired me and my mother too. My grandmother was always designing her amazing outfits and she had a huge apron collection to go with every single dress she wore. She had a Christmas apron and a Thanksgiving apron. And my grandfather. I come from a southern textile family during the Don Draper era complete with three-martini lunches and lots and lots of cigarettes. My grandmother entertained a lot. She was beautiful. I visited her and we would go to the beauty parlor and we would play paper dolls together. I was obsessed with Madame Alexander dolls. |
| My grandmother had a huge influence on me. She made all my mother’s clothes growing up. My mother made all of my clothes. I learned how to sew when I was eight. I always loved fashion and I always loved textiles. And my mother was also into decorating the house and she brought home these huge, glorious swatch books and I would go through every page and salivate. Design was a big part of my childhood. I always wanted to be a fashion designer. | My grandmother had a huge influence on me. She made all my mother’s clothes growing up. My mother made all of my clothes. I learned how to sew when I was eight. I always loved fashion and I always loved textiles. And my mother was also into decorating the house and she brought home these huge, glorious swatch books and I would go through every page and salivate. Design was a big part of my childhood. I always wanted to be a fashion designer. |
| My favorite designer was and is Christian Lacroix. Love him. Love him. Love him. If you look at his work he was always influenced by period and historical design. I always loved that aspect to his collections. As well as Chanel and Valentine and Karl Lagerfeld. How does that influence my work on Mad Men and as a costume designer? Before I designed Mad Men, I designed Deadwood. I think with each project I bring my design eye to the project. It’s about starting with the script and understanding the script. That is the point of inspiration. As we all do. We bring our individuality to the project. | |
| Can you share some of your thoughts on the best and worst trends in fashion from the past eras? | Can you share some of your thoughts on the best and worst trends in fashion from the past eras? |
| I hate the 90s. Grunge gives me the hives. | I hate the 90s. Grunge gives me the hives. |
| I can tell you right now. I hate the 90s. Grunge gives me the hives. I know people love it. I just say why why why? I say the 90s was the demise of fashion. I would say the original fanny pack, I was never into. I do love modern fanny packs. I do love the opulence of the 80s. Just look at the size of the shoulder pads and the time of Lacroix. He was amazing during that time. I do love the 1950s. One of my favorite periods of all times is the 1770s, the French baroque period. | |
| I’m told the new season is set in 1976 (is it?) which wasn’t particularly known to be stylish. Can you talk about the challenges of dressing actors in a way that is true to the show, the era and the styles of the time? What about characters like Harry Crane who always looks like he’s trying a bit too hard? | I’m told the new season is set in 1976 (is it?) which wasn’t particularly known to be stylish. Can you talk about the challenges of dressing actors in a way that is true to the show, the era and the styles of the time? What about characters like Harry Crane who always looks like he’s trying a bit too hard? |
| [Laughs] That’s so weird. I don’t know where all these rumors come from. Mad Men is a show about the 1960s. I’m working with actors. And actors are generally very attractive. People make fun of Harry Crane a lot. For me, when I was talking to Matthew Weiner when he was telling me about character arcs for Harry Crane and how he wanted to fit into the Hollywood circles and he’s a character who tries too hard. | [Laughs] That’s so weird. I don’t know where all these rumors come from. Mad Men is a show about the 1960s. I’m working with actors. And actors are generally very attractive. People make fun of Harry Crane a lot. For me, when I was talking to Matthew Weiner when he was telling me about character arcs for Harry Crane and how he wanted to fit into the Hollywood circles and he’s a character who tries too hard. |
| I love the idea of Harry being able to make the transition from nerdy at the office into a Hollywood wannabe douchebag. And his design transition from the bowties to the flamboyant scarves. I used Michael Caine as a style influence and looked at the way he dressed in terms of Harry’s costume design change. If you look at him, he has the scarves and the sport coats, I love Michael Caine, and I’m not saying he’s a douchebag. The opposite. I wanted to see what he was wearing during that time. I was inspired by the Hollywood scene. I thought Harry could have that influence of that time. Like the double-breasted jackets. I thought it would be easier to sympathize with him. I put him in terrible colors sometimes, the mustard he wears is a terrible color. It helps to sympathize with him. It tells the story of the time. I’ve always loved that Harry was a character who would be influenced by the changing fashion of the time. Don is a character who is stuck in his time. His costume design doesn’t change that much. Harry is a character who is grasping to fit in, so his costume would change. | I love the idea of Harry being able to make the transition from nerdy at the office into a Hollywood wannabe douchebag. And his design transition from the bowties to the flamboyant scarves. I used Michael Caine as a style influence and looked at the way he dressed in terms of Harry’s costume design change. If you look at him, he has the scarves and the sport coats, I love Michael Caine, and I’m not saying he’s a douchebag. The opposite. I wanted to see what he was wearing during that time. I was inspired by the Hollywood scene. I thought Harry could have that influence of that time. Like the double-breasted jackets. I thought it would be easier to sympathize with him. I put him in terrible colors sometimes, the mustard he wears is a terrible color. It helps to sympathize with him. It tells the story of the time. I’ve always loved that Harry was a character who would be influenced by the changing fashion of the time. Don is a character who is stuck in his time. His costume design doesn’t change that much. Harry is a character who is grasping to fit in, so his costume would change. |
| What’s next for you? | What’s next for you? |
| I’ve designed the uniforms for the relaunch of the Watergate Hotel. I have a true passion for the power that well-designed uniforms can have and the uniforms are very modern but they have a tailored mid-century modern feel. We also just announced my second collection with Shoes of Prey and I have my dress collection coming out with Black Halo. | I’ve designed the uniforms for the relaunch of the Watergate Hotel. I have a true passion for the power that well-designed uniforms can have and the uniforms are very modern but they have a tailored mid-century modern feel. We also just announced my second collection with Shoes of Prey and I have my dress collection coming out with Black Halo. |
| Did you ever imagine you’d have such great impact on pop culture? | Did you ever imagine you’d have such great impact on pop culture? |
| No, but I’m happy about it. I can only say that I always felt that costume design is part of the ensemble cast. And I always approach my projects that way. Maybe because I feel that costume design is such an important element of film-making – maybe the audience resonated with that. | No, but I’m happy about it. I can only say that I always felt that costume design is part of the ensemble cast. And I always approach my projects that way. Maybe because I feel that costume design is such an important element of film-making – maybe the audience resonated with that. |
| Mad Men starts Sunday, 10pm (EST), AMC | Mad Men starts Sunday, 10pm (EST), AMC |
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