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Sydney's Royal Easter show: terrible food, but a strangely good day out | Sydney's Royal Easter show: terrible food, but a strangely good day out |
(1 day later) | |
There’s no elegant way to eat a dagwood dog. I pay $8 and am given an enormous saveloy that’s been battered, fried and dipped in sauce. It looks obscene and tastes like meat flavoured cushion stuffing. I share it with two friends, and we eat it quickly, in the shade by the food van. There’s food you parade around, linger over, savour – and there’s this – a food that reeks of shame, the consumption of which resembles a sex act, and that must be eaten quickly, in private. | |
“Tell me about this dish,” I ask the man in the food van. He is Spanish and it is his first day on the job. | “Tell me about this dish,” I ask the man in the food van. He is Spanish and it is his first day on the job. |
“I don’t know what this thing is you’ve just ordered,” he says with true bewilderment. He calls over his supervisor. She speaks to me very slowly, as if to a stupid person: “It’s a saveloy. Dipped in batter. And fried.” | “I don’t know what this thing is you’ve just ordered,” he says with true bewilderment. He calls over his supervisor. She speaks to me very slowly, as if to a stupid person: “It’s a saveloy. Dipped in batter. And fried.” |
Sydney’s Royal Easter Show kicked off at Olympic Park on Thursday. Running until 8 April, the show is Australia’s premier agricultural exhibition with more than 12,500 competitions, featuring everything from cake decoration to best alpaca fleece. | Sydney’s Royal Easter Show kicked off at Olympic Park on Thursday. Running until 8 April, the show is Australia’s premier agricultural exhibition with more than 12,500 competitions, featuring everything from cake decoration to best alpaca fleece. |
It’s the first day of the show, and there’s no line up to get in (cost $39.70 for an adult). That will happen next week, once school holidays begin. I’m being shown around by my friend Jason Roberts, a painter who has been working at the show for the past five years. He has a stall in the rams’ shed where he sells his paintings, and sketches the animals. | It’s the first day of the show, and there’s no line up to get in (cost $39.70 for an adult). That will happen next week, once school holidays begin. I’m being shown around by my friend Jason Roberts, a painter who has been working at the show for the past five years. He has a stall in the rams’ shed where he sells his paintings, and sketches the animals. |
One thing that’s difficult to get my head around is how enormous the show area is. I’m used to country shows, with a couple of rides and a few local heffers on display. This is like a city – or rather a country town. A day here would not be enough to see everything. | One thing that’s difficult to get my head around is how enormous the show area is. I’m used to country shows, with a couple of rides and a few local heffers on display. This is like a city – or rather a country town. A day here would not be enough to see everything. |
But first, the thing that will never win any prizes – show food. | But first, the thing that will never win any prizes – show food. |
The show food | The show food |
People keep telling us to try the lemonade. Bec Bragg and Matt Ryan who have been coming to the show since they were kids tell us it’s a highlight – that and the wood chopping. “It’s old-fashioned lemonade, not too sweet and you can only get it at the show,” says Bragg. | People keep telling us to try the lemonade. Bec Bragg and Matt Ryan who have been coming to the show since they were kids tell us it’s a highlight – that and the wood chopping. “It’s old-fashioned lemonade, not too sweet and you can only get it at the show,” says Bragg. |
The lemonade stand also sells fried cheese on a stick. | The lemonade stand also sells fried cheese on a stick. |
“Tell me about this dish,” I say. | “Tell me about this dish,” I say. |
“Everything is cooked fresh. We take some cheese, put it on a stick, roll it in corn batter then deep fry it until it’s crispy,” says the man behind the fryer. | “Everything is cooked fresh. We take some cheese, put it on a stick, roll it in corn batter then deep fry it until it’s crispy,” says the man behind the fryer. |
The cheese stick is smaller than the dagwood dog – and less grotesque. It’s like eating a shower loofah, yet mixed with runny cheese, and it’s not unpleasant. Also I like the pride with which this man spruiks his product. People are standing around, getting sunburnt waiting for their individual cheese sticks to fry. A young man next to me says, apropos of nothing, “Everything tastes better on a stick. I don’t know why.” | The cheese stick is smaller than the dagwood dog – and less grotesque. It’s like eating a shower loofah, yet mixed with runny cheese, and it’s not unpleasant. Also I like the pride with which this man spruiks his product. People are standing around, getting sunburnt waiting for their individual cheese sticks to fry. A young man next to me says, apropos of nothing, “Everything tastes better on a stick. I don’t know why.” |
Then it’s carb time. I go to another food van that sells something called “Twisted Chips”. It resembles a birds nest – if you can imagine a birds nest made of chips, then petrified. I would call it a hot mess, but mine actually arrived quite cold. | Then it’s carb time. I go to another food van that sells something called “Twisted Chips”. It resembles a birds nest – if you can imagine a birds nest made of chips, then petrified. I would call it a hot mess, but mine actually arrived quite cold. |
The women before me, young in heavy makeup and heavy metal t-shirts, ordered the twisted chips with cheese sauce. They also want a cup of ice. “It’s for her epilepsy,” says the woman pointing to her friend in a wheelchair. “When its hot, it triggers her epilepsy.” | The women before me, young in heavy makeup and heavy metal t-shirts, ordered the twisted chips with cheese sauce. They also want a cup of ice. “It’s for her epilepsy,” says the woman pointing to her friend in a wheelchair. “When its hot, it triggers her epilepsy.” |
The woman behind the counter shrugs. There’s no ice. The heavy metal girls leave with their nest of fries ($10, sauce $2) but I find myself worrying about them for the rest of the afternoon. The sky is bright blue, the sun hot and there’s no breeze or shade. | The woman behind the counter shrugs. There’s no ice. The heavy metal girls leave with their nest of fries ($10, sauce $2) but I find myself worrying about them for the rest of the afternoon. The sky is bright blue, the sun hot and there’s no breeze or shade. |
The produce pavilion | The produce pavilion |
We walk into the produce pavilion. There are several cooking demonstrations going on, but the energy from the crowd is low. One host, miked up behind the burners, is clearly frustrated. His voice is game-show peppy but there’s a despondent, sarcastic edge: “Great audience today. They’re jumping out of their seats.” | We walk into the produce pavilion. There are several cooking demonstrations going on, but the energy from the crowd is low. One host, miked up behind the burners, is clearly frustrated. His voice is game-show peppy but there’s a despondent, sarcastic edge: “Great audience today. They’re jumping out of their seats.” |
At least a third of the people in the audience are in wheelchairs. | At least a third of the people in the audience are in wheelchairs. |
I sit down for a bit; my legs are getting tired and some of this stuff is interesting. I didn’t know for example, that “you should NEVER pick up your steak or chicken with tongs.” | I sit down for a bit; my legs are getting tired and some of this stuff is interesting. I didn’t know for example, that “you should NEVER pick up your steak or chicken with tongs.” |
The real audience engagement happens around the other side, in the judging of the perishable cookery section. Here sponge sandwiches, hot cross buns, jam rolls, fruit loaves, marble cakes, lamingtons and orange cakes (among others) are judged by women who are not to be trifled with (boom tish). | The real audience engagement happens around the other side, in the judging of the perishable cookery section. Here sponge sandwiches, hot cross buns, jam rolls, fruit loaves, marble cakes, lamingtons and orange cakes (among others) are judged by women who are not to be trifled with (boom tish). |
Judge one – a woman in her 50s – is picking up loaves like they are footballs and feeling her way round them, before bringing them up to her nose. An assistant then cuts some off and judge one prods it, tastes it and holds it up to her eyes – the entry interrogated with her all senses. | Judge one – a woman in her 50s – is picking up loaves like they are footballs and feeling her way round them, before bringing them up to her nose. An assistant then cuts some off and judge one prods it, tastes it and holds it up to her eyes – the entry interrogated with her all senses. |
“I’m going to eliminate this,” says judge one, holding the offending loaf aloft. “It’s got rack marks on the side and its lost some of its shape when it came out of the tin. It’s eliminated.” | “I’m going to eliminate this,” says judge one, holding the offending loaf aloft. “It’s got rack marks on the side and its lost some of its shape when it came out of the tin. It’s eliminated.” |
The winning loaf (“a lovely loaf”) was “full of flavour, good texture, the fruit – just perfect.” | The winning loaf (“a lovely loaf”) was “full of flavour, good texture, the fruit – just perfect.” |
Next up is lamingtons. Judge one knows what she likes. “What I’m going to look for is uniform size, icing uniform, and coconut spread even. What we don’t like is the coconut heavy heavy.” | Next up is lamingtons. Judge one knows what she likes. “What I’m going to look for is uniform size, icing uniform, and coconut spread even. What we don’t like is the coconut heavy heavy.” |
Her assistant sets to work slicing the lamingtons. | Her assistant sets to work slicing the lamingtons. |
Judge two is struggling a bit. She’s judging scones. “I had 32 lots of scones to work through, and as you can imagine, it wasn’t an easy task,” she tells the audience. | Judge two is struggling a bit. She’s judging scones. “I had 32 lots of scones to work through, and as you can imagine, it wasn’t an easy task,” she tells the audience. |
The scones are sliced and inspections begin: “a little pale on the bottom,” she says of one, “but tender. There’s a lot I’d like to give highly commended to, but I can only give two.” | The scones are sliced and inspections begin: “a little pale on the bottom,” she says of one, “but tender. There’s a lot I’d like to give highly commended to, but I can only give two.” |
Judge one holds up a dodgy lamington, “Now I will be eliminating this entry. You can see why. It’s a very shallow cake – so that one will be out. And the icing! Be careful, it has run.” | Judge one holds up a dodgy lamington, “Now I will be eliminating this entry. You can see why. It’s a very shallow cake – so that one will be out. And the icing! Be careful, it has run.” |
Judge two is more downbeat. Her task seems Sisyphean. Her next category begins: “They must think I like scones because I’ve got the pumpkin scones to do now.” | Judge two is more downbeat. Her task seems Sisyphean. Her next category begins: “They must think I like scones because I’ve got the pumpkin scones to do now.” |
She adds quickly, “I really DO like scones,” before setting back to work, slicing, touching, sniffing and tasting. | She adds quickly, “I really DO like scones,” before setting back to work, slicing, touching, sniffing and tasting. |
The sheep shearing | The sheep shearing |
Despite the industrialisation of farming, there is something very throwback about shearing. In the agricultural shed, watching the shearers in their singlets drape themselves over their sheep is like seeing a Russell Drysdale painting come to life. | Despite the industrialisation of farming, there is something very throwback about shearing. In the agricultural shed, watching the shearers in their singlets drape themselves over their sheep is like seeing a Russell Drysdale painting come to life. |
There’s a shearing demonstration and two women from the audience volunteer. In order to shear the sheep, they must put their arms around the shearers’ backs and hold on, while their shearer holds their hands (which hold the shears) in theirs. Between them is the supine sheep, and as they move around it, it looks like a dance. | There’s a shearing demonstration and two women from the audience volunteer. In order to shear the sheep, they must put their arms around the shearers’ backs and hold on, while their shearer holds their hands (which hold the shears) in theirs. Between them is the supine sheep, and as they move around it, it looks like a dance. |
It’s in the shearing shed I meet farmer Tom Corkhill. He’s here from Normanhurst, a property three and a half hours south of Sydney. For the past nine years he’s been coming here showing stud sheep. | It’s in the shearing shed I meet farmer Tom Corkhill. He’s here from Normanhurst, a property three and a half hours south of Sydney. For the past nine years he’s been coming here showing stud sheep. |
While there’s a social component to coming to the show, “We’re here to compete and win and get that win.” | While there’s a social component to coming to the show, “We’re here to compete and win and get that win.” |
A win matters to the bottom line for farmers. Last year he had a junior champion ram that went onto get top price at the property sales. | A win matters to the bottom line for farmers. Last year he had a junior champion ram that went onto get top price at the property sales. |
Corkhill is staying nearby at the Quest and most of the other border breeders are also staying close to the show site at Olympic Park. “It’s serious at judging time, but we’ll all [the other competing farmers] catch up tonight and have a meal somewhere and a few laughs.” | Corkhill is staying nearby at the Quest and most of the other border breeders are also staying close to the show site at Olympic Park. “It’s serious at judging time, but we’ll all [the other competing farmers] catch up tonight and have a meal somewhere and a few laughs.” |
The dating couple | The dating couple |
Matt Ryan from Hurstville is here at the show on “date day” with Bec Braggs, of Parramatta. | Matt Ryan from Hurstville is here at the show on “date day” with Bec Braggs, of Parramatta. |
“We’re big fans,” says Matt. “I’ve been coming since I was a kid. My grandfather was a member of the Royal Agricultural Society, and he always took me to the woodchopping.” | “We’re big fans,” says Matt. “I’ve been coming since I was a kid. My grandfather was a member of the Royal Agricultural Society, and he always took me to the woodchopping.” |
Ryan’s father’s side is from Oberon, and this year his aunty is showing one of her eight dogs, “a deerhound, in best intermediate bitch ... It always feels weird to say that,” adds Ryan. | Ryan’s father’s side is from Oberon, and this year his aunty is showing one of her eight dogs, “a deerhound, in best intermediate bitch ... It always feels weird to say that,” adds Ryan. |
Bec Braggs also came as a child. Her favourite remains the petting zoo. “They have all the baby animals and you can hug them and get close.” | Bec Braggs also came as a child. Her favourite remains the petting zoo. “They have all the baby animals and you can hug them and get close.” |
“We’re both animal lovers, and we also love the woodchop, but it’s not on today,” Ryan says. | “We’re both animal lovers, and we also love the woodchop, but it’s not on today,” Ryan says. |
They’ll both come back again, next week, with different groups of friends; “I love experiencing it with different people, because the experience changes,” Ryan says. | They’ll both come back again, next week, with different groups of friends; “I love experiencing it with different people, because the experience changes,” Ryan says. |
He hopes this year to buy a Darrell Lea showbag, even though the retail outlets have closed. | He hopes this year to buy a Darrell Lea showbag, even though the retail outlets have closed. |
“Bertie Beetle is a good fallback though,” says Bragg. | “Bertie Beetle is a good fallback though,” says Bragg. |
The showbag pavilion | The showbag pavilion |
Each area of the show has its own, very distinct smells – the hay and manure of the animal pavilions, the salt and fried food smell around the concession stands, the sugar in the air as fairy floss is spun, and the butter from the popping corn. | Each area of the show has its own, very distinct smells – the hay and manure of the animal pavilions, the salt and fried food smell around the concession stands, the sugar in the air as fairy floss is spun, and the butter from the popping corn. |
Similarly you can smell the showbag pavilion before you get there. It smells plasticity, the same smell when you enter a $2 Shop and everything has a cloying, synthetic smell that seems the opposite of nature. | Similarly you can smell the showbag pavilion before you get there. It smells plasticity, the same smell when you enter a $2 Shop and everything has a cloying, synthetic smell that seems the opposite of nature. |
The showbag pavilion is enormous and almost empty, spaced like a cathedral or convention centre – but even so it echos with the cries of children who are only allowed one bag, or have been given a budget for bags that doesn’t allow for Star Wars and Ninja Turtles. | The showbag pavilion is enormous and almost empty, spaced like a cathedral or convention centre – but even so it echos with the cries of children who are only allowed one bag, or have been given a budget for bags that doesn’t allow for Star Wars and Ninja Turtles. |
Families save the showbag pavilion for last. Parents push strollers through determinedly, with a rictus grin, just trying to get through it. Popular showbags cost around $30. Negotiate badly with your kids and you could find yourself an extra $100 down the hole. You go in, buy your show bag, and get out. | Families save the showbag pavilion for last. Parents push strollers through determinedly, with a rictus grin, just trying to get through it. Popular showbags cost around $30. Negotiate badly with your kids and you could find yourself an extra $100 down the hole. You go in, buy your show bag, and get out. |
When I was a kid, going to the Warrnambool show, the show bag was the ENTIRE REASON to attend the show. For a week, my brothers and I would pore over the guides, discuss our choices, only to change at the last minute. It was agony. Two cheap showbags or one really great expensive one? | When I was a kid, going to the Warrnambool show, the show bag was the ENTIRE REASON to attend the show. For a week, my brothers and I would pore over the guides, discuss our choices, only to change at the last minute. It was agony. Two cheap showbags or one really great expensive one? |
But as an adult show bags seem awful. In the Frozen showbag for $30 you get – among other things – blue gloves, purple earmuffs, and a paper boardgame. Star Wars is also full of plastic toys including a Darth Vader mask and Yoda backpack. | But as an adult show bags seem awful. In the Frozen showbag for $30 you get – among other things – blue gloves, purple earmuffs, and a paper boardgame. Star Wars is also full of plastic toys including a Darth Vader mask and Yoda backpack. |
Showbags for adults are the saddest. | Showbags for adults are the saddest. |
The Top Gear showbag is WEIRD. You get a copy of the magazine, a cookie, a packet of Sustagen sports, and a powered box of chicken curry. Thematically it makes no sense. | The Top Gear showbag is WEIRD. You get a copy of the magazine, a cookie, a packet of Sustagen sports, and a powered box of chicken curry. Thematically it makes no sense. |
The show bag for me, if any, is the Bertie Beetle. I handed over $5 and got a bag that has made me, and thousands of others, happy since childhood. | The show bag for me, if any, is the Bertie Beetle. I handed over $5 and got a bag that has made me, and thousands of others, happy since childhood. |
So was the show any good? | So was the show any good? |
Yes. Because its like entering so many different worlds – terrible food world, a beautiful sheep land, breathtaking show-jumping universe and scary, wonderful cake-judging land. It’s all there. It’s all at the show! | Yes. Because its like entering so many different worlds – terrible food world, a beautiful sheep land, breathtaking show-jumping universe and scary, wonderful cake-judging land. It’s all there. It’s all at the show! |
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