The coffee industry in the UK generates an annual turnover of £2.5bn By Denise Winterman BBC News Magazine Inferior coffee at an inflated price, that's the verdict of a new survey on the coffee shop chains that have sprung up over the UK. You get a better brew at an independent coffee shop. But how are the small guys staying afloat?
By Denise Winterman BBC News Magazine Inferior coffee at an inflated price, that's the verdict of a new survey on the coffee shop chains that have sprung up over the UK. You get a better brew at an independent coffee shop. But how are the small guys staying afloat?
When was the last time a really good cup of coffee put your world on hold, took you to another place in your head? For most people it just takes them to the nearest table in a crowded Starbucks.
When was the last time a really good cup of coffee put your world on hold, took you to another place in your head? For most people the thought of coffee just takes them to the nearest table in a crowded Starbucks.
But a good coffee can be a catalyst, says the three times UK National Barista Champion, Simon Robertson.
But a good coffee can be a catalyst, says the three times UK National Barista Champion, Simon Robertson.
"However busy you are, in the time it takes you to finish that coffee your normal world is put on hold and you go somewhere else in your head. It's about creating a moment, creating an experience."
Starbucks is UK's 'favourite' chain - 27% rate it as such"However busy you are, in the time it takes you to finish that coffee your normal world is put on hold and you go somewhere else in your head. It's about creating a moment, creating an experience."
Starbucks is UK's 'favourite' chain - 27% rate it as suchDon't recognise that feeling? It could be because what's being served by the big chains is inferior coffee at an inflated price, according to Which?
Don't recognise that feeling? It could be because what's being served by the big chains is inferior coffee at an inflated price, according to Which?
A new report from the consumer magazine says it's independent cafes where you get the best coffee, at the best price. But despite such a winning combination, many such cafes are struggling to survive.
A new report from the consumer magazine says it's independent cafes where you get the best coffee, at the best price. But despite such a winning combination, many such cafes are struggling to survive.
Britain's coffee culture may be bubbling like the head of a freshly made cappuccino - generating an annual turnover of £2.5bn according to research group Allegra Strategies - but it's the big name brands that are popping up on every street corner and reaping the rewards.
Britain's coffee culture may be bubbling like the head of a freshly made cappuccino - generating an annual turnover of £2.5bn according to research group Allegra Strategies - but it's the big name brands that are popping up on every street corner and reaping the rewards.
"The big chains are like a cancer," says Adrian Maddox, author of Classic Cafes. "They're erasing individual cafes from the UK. It's happening at an incredible rate and is a sad situation."
"The big chains are like a cancer," says Adrian Maddox, author of Classic Cafes. "They're erasing individual cafes from the UK. It's happening at an incredible rate and is a sad situation."
The millions who patronise these outlets every day would surely disagree. It's easy to romanticise old-style cafes, but compared with the insipid instant dishwater that used to pass for coffee in British snack bars multiples offer a superior drink.
We are in the 'Blue Nun stage' of coffee drinking Simon Robertson, champion barrista The millions who patronise these outlets every day would surely disagree. It's easy to romanticise old-style cafes, but compared with the insipid instant dishwater that used to pass for coffee in British snack bars multiples offer a superior drink.
Independents have had to up their game. But how can the little guys take on the coffee giants and all their financial muscle? By not trying to match them and offering something different, say the experts. That can be anything from creating a unique ambience, right down to the coffee you serve.
Independents have had to up their game. But how can the little guys take on the coffee giants and all their financial muscle? By not trying to match them and offering something different, say the experts. That can be anything from creating a unique ambience, right down to the coffee you serve.
"What the chains are about and what my business is about are totally different," says Mr Robertson, owner of Leoni's Coffee House in Malton, Yorkshire. "The big guys just chuck hot milk on a coffee product. They're selling a lifestyle, not coffee."
"What the chains are about and what my business is about are totally different," says Mr Robertson, owner of Leoni's Coffee House in Malton, Yorkshire. "The big guys just chuck hot milk on a coffee product. They're selling a lifestyle, not coffee."
Own worst enemies
Own worst enemies
But they're good at it, which is a big part of the problem for the independents. The three main players - Costa, Starbucks and Caffe Nero - have such a strong image. They've become synonymous with coffee.
But they're good at it, which is a big part of the problem for the independents. The three main players - Costa, Starbucks and Caffe Nero - have such a strong image. They've become synonymous with coffee.
"As brands they are just so incredible visible and people head straight for them without thinking," says Tom Hiskey, who runs the Cosy Coffee Shops website.
Coffee should be 'an experience'"As brands they are just so incredible visible and people head straight for them without thinking," says Tom Hiskey, who runs the Cosy Coffee Shops website.
"We're being sold the idea of what a cafe should be when just round the corner is probably the real thing - an independent cafe serving much better coffee, in a unique setting, with personal service."
"We're being sold the idea of what a cafe should be when just round the corner is probably the real thing - an independent cafe serving much better coffee, in a unique setting, with personal service."
Coffee enthusiasts are coming up with novel ways to tackle the high visibility of the coffee giants. They need to because most independent coffee shop can't afford the rent on a prime location, even though they are often tucked just a few streets away.
Coffee enthusiasts are coming up with novel ways to tackle the high visibility of the coffee giants. They need to because most independent coffee shop can't afford the rent on a prime location, even though they are often tucked just a few streets away.
Coffee should be 'an experience'Delocator UK is a website where people can type in a postcode and it will show them the independent cafes within walking distance.
Delocator UK is a website where people can type in a postcode and it will show them the independent cafes within walking distance.
"People end up getting lost in endless chain outlets because they lack a bit of local knowledge," says Mike Dewar, who set up the site. "Delocator is about giving people more choice than just Starbucks, Costa and Nero."
"People end up getting lost in endless chain outlets because they lack a bit of local knowledge," says Mike Dewar, who set up the site. "Delocator is about giving people more choice than just Starbucks, Costa and Nero."
Some enthusiasts argue the British palate is not as refined as that of our continental cousins.
Some enthusiasts argue the British palate is not as refined as that of our continental cousins.
We are in the "Blue Nun stage" of coffee drinking, says Mr Robertson. Just like wine a generation ago, people have started drinking coffee but don't know enough about it to judge if it's good or not.
We are in the "Blue Nun stage" of coffee drinking, says Mr Robertson. Just like wine a generation ago, people have started drinking coffee but don't know enough about it to judge if it's good or not.
On the analysis, tastes will change. Quality coffee - as the Which? investigation says these cafes provide - is another way for the sole traders to differentiate themselves.
On the analysis, tastes will change. Quality coffee - as the Which? investigation says these cafes provide - is another way for the sole traders to differentiate themselves.
'Hot milkshake'
'Hot milkshake'
In London's Soho - the spiritual home of the British coffee house - all the big brands have set up shop. Yet that didn't put Cameron McClure off when deciding where to set up a coffee shop two-and-a-half years ago.
In London's Soho - the spiritual home of the British coffee house - all the big brands have set up shop. Yet that didn't put Cameron McClure off when deciding where to set up a coffee shop two-and-a-half years ago.
"I don't even consider them as competition," says Mr McClure, owner of Flat White. The shop, which sells about 700 cups a day, won the Allegra Strategies' award for Independent Coffee Shop of the Year 2007. "They do bulk orders and making the coffee literally involves pressing a button. We hand measure the beans and adjust throughout the day because the beans change."
We try to remember people's names and what they drink Cameron McClure, of Flat White "I don't even consider them as competition," says Mr McClure, owner of Flat White. The shop, which sells about 700 cups a day, won the Allegra Strategies' award for Independent Coffee Shop of the Year 2007. "They do bulk orders and making the coffee literally involves pressing a button. We hand measure the beans and adjust throughout the day because the beans change."
Mr Robertson believes the masses will come round to his way of drinking.
Mr Robertson believes the masses will come round to his way of drinking.
"It's natural that people's tastes will evolve and they will learn what good coffee is, it's just a really slow process," he says. "Then it comes down to basics, the coffee. You never stop learning when it comes to making coffee, but I would say the bare minimum of training you need is three months.
"It's natural that people's tastes will evolve and they will learn what good coffee is, it's just a really slow process," he says. "Then it comes down to basics, the coffee. You never stop learning when it comes to making coffee, but I would say the bare minimum of training you need is three months.
"Big business is just about filling people up with what is basically a hot milkshake. My coffee is about a delicate balance of flavours."
"Big business is just about filling people up with what is basically a hot milkshake. My coffee is about a delicate balance of flavours."
Caring about the coffee has paid off for Mr Robertson. He has a customer who travels 50 miles once a week for one of his espressos.
Caring about the coffee has paid off for Mr Robertson. He has a customer who travels 50 miles once a week for one of his espressos.
Independent cafes can be uniquePrice is also a way to fight back. Which? says you'll pay on average £1.48 in an independent coffee shop for a medium-sized cappuccino, compared to £2.29 in Starbucks. At Leoni's it will cost £1.65. At Flat White the price tag is £2.30, but the shop uses "three baskets" of coffee - 23 grams - against the one or two measures used by the multiples.
Independent cafes can be uniquePrice is also a way to fight back. Which? says you'll pay on average £1.48 in an independent coffee shop for a medium-sized cappuccino, compared to £2.29 in Starbucks. At Leoni's it will cost £1.65. At Flat White the price tag is £2.30, but the shop uses "three baskets" of coffee - 23 grams - against the one or two measures used by the multiples.
While independent coffee shops want to make money, they are not usually willing to compromise on quality to get it, say enthusiasts.
While independent coffee shops want to make money, they are not usually willing to compromise on quality to get it, say enthusiasts.
But the economics of serving good coffee in a high profile spot are brutal. It's labour intensive and rents for good locations are high.
But the economics of serving good coffee in a high profile spot are brutal. It's labour intensive and rents for good locations are high.
Small independent coffee shops can seem cramped while, Mr McClure, observes, the "chains seem to have a huge amount of space."
Small independent coffee shops can seem cramped while, Mr McClure, observes, the "chains seem to have a huge amount of space."
"We play music and create the atmosphere that way. And also we're more personal - we try to remember people's names and what they drink."
"We play music and create the atmosphere that way. And also we're more personal - we try to remember people's names and what they drink."
Mr Robertson insists the coffee making experience is paramount. He recalls when an elderly customer stopped him to say the coffee he'd just drank was the best he'd had since his time in Italy.
Coffee culture in the 50sMr Robertson insists the coffee making experience is paramount. He recalls when an elderly customer stopped him to say the coffee he'd just drank was the best he'd had since his time in Italy.
"I asked him when he was last in Italy and he said during World War II. I realised the coffee I'd just made him - the smell, the taste, the experience - had transported him all the way back in his mind to wartime Italy.
"I asked him when he was last in Italy and he said during World War II. I realised the coffee I'd just made him - the smell, the taste, the experience - had transported him all the way back in his mind to wartime Italy.
"Realising that power was massive, it made the hairs on the back of my neck stand on end."
"Realising that power was massive, it made the hairs on the back of my neck stand on end."
Just don't ask him for a skinny, soya, caramel latte - it's not on the menu because its "not proper coffee".
Just don't ask him for a skinny, soya, caramel latte - it's not on the menu because its "not proper coffee".
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I treat myself to one "special" coffee per week and was always dissapointed with the big brand coffee shop that I used as the frequently messed up my order and lacked that personal touch. One week I decided to use the smaller place accross the road and to my delight discovered that not only do they get my drink right 100% of the time but actually smile and chat to me while I'm there. Their prices are also substantially cheaper that the big names. I can also buy a great range of food and get a free drink for every 8 bought. Go back to the big brand coffee house? Not me.Sara Williams, Cardiff, Wales
