Think pink: Yotam Ottolenghi’s salmon recipes
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Version 0 of 1. Life’s an upstream battle when you’re a salmon. They really don’t have it easy. There’s a brief window of calm at the outset, true, when they roam the freshwater stream that’s their home, but even then they’re orphaned on day one (their exhausted parents die after spawning), so it’s hardly plain sailing. Before long, it’s time to leave the comfort zone and head into the more arduous conditions of the salty northern ocean waters. They live there for between one and four years, growing strong and fat, before it’s time to return home in an Olympian effort that brings them back to the exact same spot where they started. Fewer than one in 1,000 make it home. The fate of the salmon we eat is similarly gloomy. For all their fitness, courage and versatility, salmon is still regarded as the “boring” or “predictable” choice on a menu: the fishy equivalent of a plain chicken breast. For some reason, it’s not cool to come out as a salmon lover. The choice to eat salmon in the first place is also not straightforward. Most of the salmon we eat in the UK comes from farms in Scotland. Plainly a good thing, you’d think, considering dwindling wild stocks; but fish farming comes with its own controversies, particularly regarding how and what we feed those fish, and the environmental impact that intensive farming has on the surrounding waters. There aren’t any easy answers, so I’d urge you seriously to look into the certification of the salmon you eat. From a cook’s point of view, meanwhile, we should all do our bit to ensure that it’s no longer seen as a boring choice. Here are three dishes that I hope will help. Salmon fishcakes with garam masala, chilli and ginger I’ve had mixed results when trying to pop amaranth, a seed that’s rich in protein and nutrients, and popular in Asia and South America; it adds a glorious crunch when fried and sprinkled over meat, vegetables or fish. But now I’ve found it ready-popped at my local healthfood shop; you can also get it online. Failing that, use breadcrumbs, preferably panko. Makes eight cakes, to serve four. 600g skinned and boned salmon fillet, finely chopped by hand into 2-3mm dice3 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped 2 tsp garam masala1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped20g coriander leaves, roughly chopped4cm piece ginger, peeled and finely grated1 egg, lightly whisked60g popped amaranth seeds (or panko breadcrumbs)Salt and freshly ground black pepper60ml sunflower oil120g soured cream1 lime, quartered, to serve In a large bowl, mix the salmon, spring onion, garam masala, chilli, coriander, ginger and egg. Add 15g of popped amaranth, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, then shape into eight patties about 10cm in diameter and 1.5cm thick. One at a time, dip these in the remaining amaranth, and press it on to the cakes so they are densely coated all over. Pour half the oil into a large frying pan and put it on a high heat. Once hot, fry half the fishcakes for five minutes, turning them halfway through, so they go golden and crisp on both sides. Set aside somewhere warm and cook the remaining fishcakes. Serve at once with a spoon of soured cream on top and a wedge of lime alongside. Quick-cured salmon pumpernickel sandwich Serves six as a starter. 80ml cider vinegar1¼ tsp caster sugarSalt and black pepper1 small red onion, very thinly sliced into pinwheels400g skin-on salmon fillet from the tail end, pinboned140g radishes, thinly sliced¼ medium celeriac, peeled and julienned¾ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed1 tbsp lemon juice1½ tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling100g soured cream1½ tsp Dijon mustard15g dill leaves10g tarragon leaves250g pumpernickel, or other German-style rye bread 1½ tsp black mustard seeds, gently toasted Put the vinegar and sugar in a non-metallic bowl with a teaspoon of salt. Add the onion and set aside for 10 minutes. Strain the onion, reserving the juices, and set both to one side separately. Starting from the tail end, use a very sharp knife to cut the salmon on an angle into very thin slices. Cut right down to the skin, then lift the slices up and away, much as you would when carving a side of smoked salmon. Once all the fillet is sliced, discard the skin. Lay the slices on a plate and brush with the onion pickling juices. Turn over and repeat on the other side, then set aside for 10 minutes. For the salad, put the reserved pickled onion in a large bowl and add the radishes, celeriac, cumin, lemon juice, oil, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Stir well and set aside. In a small bowl, stir together the soured cream, Dijon mustard and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt. When ready to serve, stir the dill and tarragon into the salad. Divide the slices of pumpernickel between six plates and lay slices of salmon on top. Spoon two-thirds of the mustard cream dressing over the salmon and top the fish with a handful of the salad. Drizzle over the remaining dressing, sprinkle with mustard seeds and serve at once with a final drizzle of oil. Sauternes-poached salmon salad with french beans and barley When asparagus is in season, substitute two thirds of the beans for asparagus, blanching the spears for a minute less than the beans cooked here. Serves six as a starter. 50g pearl barley500g piece salmon fillet, skin on, pinboned250ml sauternes 2 bay leaves5g thyme sprigs5 whole allspice15 black peppercornsSalt and black pepper1½ tbsp lemon juice3 tbsp olive oil400g french beans, topped and cut in half widthways on an angle 3 spring onions, trimmed and thinly sliced on an angle5g tarragon leaves, roughly chopped15g chervil leaves (or small parsley leaves)90g cream cheese (or mascarpone)¼ tsp nigella seeds Put the barley in a medium saucepan and cover generously with water. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to medium and simmer for up to 40 minutes, until the grains are cooked but still retain a bite. Drain, refresh and set aside to dry. Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Put the salmon skin side down in a 26cm x 18cm baking dish. Add the wine, bay leaves, thyme, allspice and peppercorns, and sprinkle the fish with a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Cover the dish with both parchment paper and foil, and bake on the middle shelf for 14-18 minutes, depending on thickness, until the fish is just cooked but still pink in the middle. Remove from the oven and carefully strain the cooking liquids into a small pan; discard the aromatics. Cover the fish with foil and set it to one side. Put the liquid pan on a medium-high heat and reduce for about 10 minutes, until you have two tablespoons of thick liquor left. Leave to cool slightly, then whisk in the lemon juice, two tablespoons of the oil, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and a generous grind of pepper. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the beans and cook for four to five minutes, until al dente. Strain, refresh under cold water and set aside to dry (you can speed this along by spreading the beans out on a clean tea towel). Put the beans in a large bowl and mix in the barley, spring onion, tarragon, two-thirds of the chervil (or parsley), the remaining oil and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt, and divide between six plates. Break the salmon into big chunks, removing any skin, and arrange over each portion. Dot small spoonfuls of cream cheese on top and dribble over the dressing. Sprinkle over the nigella seeds and remaining chervil, and serve. • Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London. Follow Yotam on Twitter. |