An urbanist's guide to Stockholm: ‘Find your own secret space and own it'

http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2015/jan/12/urbanists-guide-stockholm-sweden-capital

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My name is Lola Akinmade Åkerström. I was born in Nigeria, studied and worked in the United States, and moved to Stockholm for love many moons ago after giving up my life as a system architect working with Geographic Information Systems (GIS). That was in 2009. Coming from two boisterous cultures – Nigerian and American – Sweden as a whole was an initial shock to the system. Life slowed down tremendously and the words “work-life balance” slowly crept into my psyche.

Today, I’m a freelance travel writer and photographer who contributes to many major publications. My photography is represented by National Geographic Creative and I’m also the editor-in-chief of Slow Travel Stockholm – a site that encourages travellers to my city to slow down, re-examine their motives for visiting, and get to know the city on a much deeper level. Yes, Stockholm truly is that superhot person who is also a modest rocket scientist. Getting beneath its surface is challenging but rewarding.

Spread out across 14 islands with tons of nooks and crannies (read: hole-in-the-wall cafés) for hiding out - from historic Gamla stan and lush Djurgården to vibrant Södermalm – Stockholm today feels more like the Silicon Valley of Scandinavia pushing out tonnes of wildly successful startups (Spotify and Skype anyone?) and popular video games (Minecraft).

Beyond panoramic good looks, Stockholm is arguably the greenest city amidst a sea of eco-friendly Nordic cities. In 2010, it beat out 34 European cities to win the inaugural European Green Capital award because of various sustainability initiatives - from purifying rain water to converting waste into biogas for its public transportation system.

Recycling is in our DNA. You will pay for that plastic grocery bag and yes, that low-flush energy-conserving toilet is still powerful enough to get rid of “it” so no need to watch.

I’ve always associated human characteristics with cities I explore. Edinburgh feels like a moody yet brilliant gentleman. Belfast is a brawny rugby player you try to force into a business suit, and my city, Stockholm, feels androgynous. Very jean jacket, flipped collar and white pants. Stockholm wants you to find your own secret space and own it selfishly.

It is the most open society run by the most private people.

What’s the best building?

Buildings in Stockholm are all shades of ochre – yellow and brown ochre buildings, pale lemon, dull pumpkin orange, mustard yellow, and blush red with the occasional grey futuristic-style buildings and 1960s block-style buildings with weird colour choices and white trims thrown in.

In my opinion, the best building in town is a toss-up between the gargantuan National Museum building which was built in 1866 and which is currently closed for renovations until 2017; and Stadshuset (City Hall) with its impressive series of archways and tower. The City Hall building was opened in 1923 and it hosts the Nobel Prize dinner and gala every year.

My personal favourite though is Katarinakyrka (Katarina Church) tucked away on the island of Södermalm. It epitomises what I still find mesmerising about the city after many years. Lots of classic beauty hidden away in unexpected corners.

And the worst?

While the term “worst” feels harsh, nebulously shaped buildings that look bulbous with no structure and clear curves often find themselves under this category. So the two buildings that immediately jump to mind are Kulturhuset right in the heart of Stockholm. It is also a socially important building in terms of arts and culture.

The other is food market and hall Söderhallarna located along Medborgarplatsen (“The Citizen Square”) - a popular square prime for people-watching on the island of Södermalm. Its box-like exteriors aren’t the most aesthetically pleasing.

My choice for wacko building is Scandic Victoria Tower – a reflective building that juts out of nowhere on your drive to Stockholm from Arlanda Airport. Mostly because it is a victim of its misplaced location which makes it phallic in appearance.

How clean is the city?

You can certainly drink ice-cold water straight from the tap. The city is lined with many public beaches and watering holes where you can go for a swim right in Lake Mälaren. The waters around Stockholm are much cleaner than those in other maritime European cities. Recycling is instilled from a very young age here so at various kindergartens across town, little tots are already sorting paper from plastic.

Many restaurants and cafés serve KRAV-certified organic foods. KRAV certification ensures that food served meet specific animal husbandry and environmental standards in terms of preparation, ingredients, and production.

Many hotels and businesses display the Nordic “Swan” Eco Label – a certification awarded to Scandinavian products and services with a proven record of conservation and low environmental footprints. From water-conserving toilets and low-energy high-efficiency light bulbs to organic cuisine and biodegradable soap for customers, this means they have been vetted to meet certain environmental, health, functional, and quality criteria before being considered eco-friendly.

You will find your fair share of graffiti but it’s far and few between and certainly not on the artistic level of Banksy that you’ll find in other cities. It’s more nuisance graffiti.

What’s the best way to get around?

Memorise the word “Tunnelbana” - which is Stockholm’s subway system - because it is the best and most efficient way of getting aroundtown.

Marked with large blue “T” signs, Stockholm’s Tunnelbana (T-bana) network and its impressive cave artwork is also the world’s longest art exhibition at 110 km long. You will find a variety of paintings, sculptures, mosaics, tiles, installations, and other durable art displays put together by 150 artists in over 90 of the city’s 100 stations.

Pedestrians rule in Stockholm and the city is also bike-friendly with over 760km of bike paths. Vehicle traffic can be a nightmare because the city is small and compact which makes expanding existing roads to support the increasing number of vehicles an ongoing challenge.

What does your city sound like?

The sounds definitely aren’t coming from human beings because people are mostly reserved and rarely talk to each other on the subways, buses, and in passing.

When I close my eyes and listen, I hear the sounds of steamboats and ferries pulling out, of cruise ships honking their arrival or departure, of the mechanical female voice that comes on when a bus opens its doors at a bus station, of seagulls circling ahead, of the rhythmic clapping of the traffic signal when it’s time to cross the road, of a bicycle bell warning me to get out of the way.

But never really loud boisterous voices chatting in animated fashions. I hardly hear those.

Where is the best place for a conversation?

Stockholmers love socialising with loyal friends (translation: longtime friends) and work colleagues but are still fiercely private and are quick to leave the hustle and bustle of the streets to retreat into cosy dimly lit intimate cafés that cater to that sense of privacy. There is a long observed tradition around this act called “fika” which is loosely translated to taking several breaks over coffee and freshly baked pastries to socialise.

The city is also dotted with lush green parks where you can splay out on blankets, bask in any available sliver of sunlight, and hold the most private of conversations while other people are barely 10 feet away doing the exact same thing.

What one thing is indispensable for life in your city?

Patience is required to fully function in Stockholm. The city lacks the same rush and busy bee-ness other metropolitan cities possess. Queueing is a way of life here and you will queue in silence for what feels like hours.

Many businesses and stores use a ticketing system which is a small wall-mounted or free-standing machine that dispenses notes (nummerlappar) with numbers written on them. Before joining any queue you see, look if those standing in line are holding small pieces of paper. If they are, then look around for the dispensing machine.

Otherwise, you’ll be standing for a long time. Silently.

Are you optimistic about your city’s future?

I am optimistic about Stockholm’s future because it is an accepting and open-minded society. The city is a lot more culturally diverse than one might stereotypically expect with a large influx of immigrants, expats, and asylum seekers looking for a better quality of life. While there are facets of anti-immigration sentiment bubbling to the surface, I am proud that Stockholm remains a tolerant and respectful melting pot of cultures.

Creativity and entrepreneurship continues to blossom and the Swedish Startup Space is where startups can connect and you can follow up-and-coming Swedish startups in the tech industry.

On the environmental front, Stockholm has already reduced carbon emissions by over 25% per person since 1990 and it is well on track towards eliminating its dependence on fossil fuels by 2050, and ensuring that 100% of vehicles operated within the city will run on renewable fuels.