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| Cubans look to future with optimism in wake of historic breakthrough | Cubans look to future with optimism in wake of historic breakthrough |
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| One of Hermania’s Arufat’s fondest memories of her childhood in pre-revolutionary Cuba is of waiting at the ferry port for her mother to arrive back from the United States, bearing – as she always did – a handful of gifts. | One of Hermania’s Arufat’s fondest memories of her childhood in pre-revolutionary Cuba is of waiting at the ferry port for her mother to arrive back from the United States, bearing – as she always did – a handful of gifts. |
| More than half a century on, the 70-year old retired librarian is now lining up outside the US consulate in Havana, trying to get the first of what she hopes will be many visas – a prospect that she believes had been enhanced thanks to this week’s announcement that the two Cold War enemies are normalising relations. | More than half a century on, the 70-year old retired librarian is now lining up outside the US consulate in Havana, trying to get the first of what she hopes will be many visas – a prospect that she believes had been enhanced thanks to this week’s announcement that the two Cold War enemies are normalising relations. |
| “It’s wonderful news. We are very excited”, she said, sitting on the wall of a crumbling art-deco residence with her documents in hand. “It should make life easier. Perhaps the ferry services will start again. I’m hoping I can follow my mother and come and go all the time”. | “It’s wonderful news. We are very excited”, she said, sitting on the wall of a crumbling art-deco residence with her documents in hand. “It should make life easier. Perhaps the ferry services will start again. I’m hoping I can follow my mother and come and go all the time”. |
| She is not alone in her optimism. Easier travel between the two countries – regulations on which have already been relaxed in recent years – is only one of a range of benefits Cubans are expecting in the wake of the historic breakthrough announced this week by Barack Obama and Raul Castro. | She is not alone in her optimism. Easier travel between the two countries – regulations on which have already been relaxed in recent years – is only one of a range of benefits Cubans are expecting in the wake of the historic breakthrough announced this week by Barack Obama and Raul Castro. |
| Speaking on Friday, Obama cautioned that change would not come to Cuba immediately, and warned that the US economic embargo would not be lifted overnight. | Speaking on Friday, Obama cautioned that change would not come to Cuba immediately, and warned that the US economic embargo would not be lifted overnight. |
| But on the streets, in homes and in the increasing numbers of bars and restaurants in Havana, the chatter is of the future: what else might come along with the tourists, trade and investment that are now expected from the island’s giant neighbour. | But on the streets, in homes and in the increasing numbers of bars and restaurants in Havana, the chatter is of the future: what else might come along with the tourists, trade and investment that are now expected from the island’s giant neighbour. |
| “It has to be a good think if more American tourists come. They’ll bring in more money and fill the hotels,” said driver Frank Rodríguez, who hoped the US economic embargo would be eased as well in the future, making basic commodities cheaper. | “It has to be a good think if more American tourists come. They’ll bring in more money and fill the hotels,” said driver Frank Rodríguez, who hoped the US economic embargo would be eased as well in the future, making basic commodities cheaper. |
| “The government makes a little chicken and beef available through the state distribution system, but it is only enough for a couple of meals a month. The rest of the time, if we want meat, we have to buy it on the black market – and it’s very expensive,” he said. | “The government makes a little chicken and beef available through the state distribution system, but it is only enough for a couple of meals a month. The rest of the time, if we want meat, we have to buy it on the black market – and it’s very expensive,” he said. |
| Others expect closer ties with the US to stimulate the economic reforms that are already under way. Salary caps have been eased. Farmers have a little more autonomy to run their farms and the government has issued licenses for hundreds of new types of private enterprise. Privately-run eateries, known as paladares, are opening so quickly - usually with money from Cubans living in the US - that restaurant guidebooks are out of date almost as soon as they are printed. Of the six visited by the Guardian, five had opened within the past three months. Government businesses are also trying to catch up by upgrading and starting in new areas. | Others expect closer ties with the US to stimulate the economic reforms that are already under way. Salary caps have been eased. Farmers have a little more autonomy to run their farms and the government has issued licenses for hundreds of new types of private enterprise. Privately-run eateries, known as paladares, are opening so quickly - usually with money from Cubans living in the US - that restaurant guidebooks are out of date almost as soon as they are printed. Of the six visited by the Guardian, five had opened within the past three months. Government businesses are also trying to catch up by upgrading and starting in new areas. |
| For Paulo Rodriguez, head chef of one of the newest restaurants on the Malecon –Havana’s seafront promenade – it is still a far cry from the city’s past glories. Now 82 years old, Rodriguez remembers the 1950s, when ferries from the US disgorged floods of wealthy tourists who splashed their dollars in nightclubs, restaurants and casinos like the Tropicana, Riviera and Capri – many of which were owned by US mobsters. | For Paulo Rodriguez, head chef of one of the newest restaurants on the Malecon –Havana’s seafront promenade – it is still a far cry from the city’s past glories. Now 82 years old, Rodriguez remembers the 1950s, when ferries from the US disgorged floods of wealthy tourists who splashed their dollars in nightclubs, restaurants and casinos like the Tropicana, Riviera and Capri – many of which were owned by US mobsters. |
| “I worked for a US restaurant chain back then and made good money – $176 per month. I bought myself a big Plymouth car for $600 and had a nice apartment. Everything was going well,” he says, sipping on a TuKola – the Cuban substitute for Coke and Pepsi. | |
| Then came the revolution, the souring of relations with Washington – and the US blockade which choked the life out of the economy. To get by, Rodrigues is having to work way past retirement age on a salary that is just a fraction of what he earned half a century ago. He hopes this week’s announcement will bring positive change. | Then came the revolution, the souring of relations with Washington – and the US blockade which choked the life out of the economy. To get by, Rodrigues is having to work way past retirement age on a salary that is just a fraction of what he earned half a century ago. He hopes this week’s announcement will bring positive change. |
| “Of course, the resumption of relations will be good for me and everyone else. I have a strong hope this time. There is a real will to move forward,” he said. “We’ll get more investment form the US, which will be good. I don’t think it will go back to the way it was, but who knows?” | “Of course, the resumption of relations will be good for me and everyone else. I have a strong hope this time. There is a real will to move forward,” he said. “We’ll get more investment form the US, which will be good. I don’t think it will go back to the way it was, but who knows?” |
| Among the biggest hopes, particularly among young Cubans, is a more open and cheaper Internet service. In recent years, the government has relaxed restrictions on computer ownership and allowed “Internet rooms” to do business, but low coverage and high charges mean that most of the population is still excluded. The cheapest service is $5 an hour. | Among the biggest hopes, particularly among young Cubans, is a more open and cheaper Internet service. In recent years, the government has relaxed restrictions on computer ownership and allowed “Internet rooms” to do business, but low coverage and high charges mean that most of the population is still excluded. The cheapest service is $5 an hour. |
| “I’d have to work for a week to use the internet for an hour,” said William Garaschenko, a waiter at a new restaurant. “The change I most hope for is better access to information. The current situation is leading to a stagnation of the country. I hope closer ties to the US can help this in some way”. | “I’d have to work for a week to use the internet for an hour,” said William Garaschenko, a waiter at a new restaurant. “The change I most hope for is better access to information. The current situation is leading to a stagnation of the country. I hope closer ties to the US can help this in some way”. |
| The controls work both ways. Attempts to use the Guardian’s gmail account in Havana brought up the message: “Google restricts access to some of its enterprise services in certain countries such as Cuba, Iran, North Korea, Sudan and Syria.” A private gmail account, however, worked fine. | The controls work both ways. Attempts to use the Guardian’s gmail account in Havana brought up the message: “Google restricts access to some of its enterprise services in certain countries such as Cuba, Iran, North Korea, Sudan and Syria.” A private gmail account, however, worked fine. |
| There should be improvements with relaxed controls on businesses, particularly if the US goes ahead with plans to bring a fibre-optic cable to its naval base at Guantánamo – and then connects it to the rest of the island. US officials have also said the Cuban government has agreed to allow American telecom providers to come in and help build a broadband network. | There should be improvements with relaxed controls on businesses, particularly if the US goes ahead with plans to bring a fibre-optic cable to its naval base at Guantánamo – and then connects it to the rest of the island. US officials have also said the Cuban government has agreed to allow American telecom providers to come in and help build a broadband network. |
| Tourism should also see a boom. Washington’s restrictions on travel make it difficult for US citizens to visit the island, but controls have been steadily loosened under Obama to allow more “people-to-people exchanges.” Those on such tours this week were thrilled to be present in Cuba at such a historic moment. | Tourism should also see a boom. Washington’s restrictions on travel make it difficult for US citizens to visit the island, but controls have been steadily loosened under Obama to allow more “people-to-people exchanges.” Those on such tours this week were thrilled to be present in Cuba at such a historic moment. |
| “I arrived on the day of the announcement. It was very emotional. I jumped into a taxi and talked to the driver about what it might mean. It became very emotional. We both welled up. The radio played John Lennon’s Imagine. It was corny, but I couldn’t find a better amplifier for the feelings at that time”, said Jason Grunebaum, a teacher from Chicago. | “I arrived on the day of the announcement. It was very emotional. I jumped into a taxi and talked to the driver about what it might mean. It became very emotional. We both welled up. The radio played John Lennon’s Imagine. It was corny, but I couldn’t find a better amplifier for the feelings at that time”, said Jason Grunebaum, a teacher from Chicago. |
| From what he has seen so far of Havana, he said it was likely to attract a lot of his countrymen. “I think broader America will be thinking: ‘When can we hit the beaches?’,” he said. “The only people who are really opposed are dyed-in-the-wool Miami republicans who are a bit sad. I think ultimately this is an irreversible process”. | From what he has seen so far of Havana, he said it was likely to attract a lot of his countrymen. “I think broader America will be thinking: ‘When can we hit the beaches?’,” he said. “The only people who are really opposed are dyed-in-the-wool Miami republicans who are a bit sad. I think ultimately this is an irreversible process”. |
| Many tourists come here seeking to experience a land that time forgot – a vision of classic cars, art-deco hotels and the clarity of sharp Cold War ideological divisions, a world where you can still light up a cigar in a restaurant and imagine Ernest Hemingway mixing up a daquiri at a party filled with global celebrities. | Many tourists come here seeking to experience a land that time forgot – a vision of classic cars, art-deco hotels and the clarity of sharp Cold War ideological divisions, a world where you can still light up a cigar in a restaurant and imagine Ernest Hemingway mixing up a daquiri at a party filled with global celebrities. |
| Most visitors to the island are from Europe and Canada. Some say they see it a refuge from the modern, globalised, consumerist, US-dominated world. But nobody begrudges Cuba the chance to improve lifestyles. | Most visitors to the island are from Europe and Canada. Some say they see it a refuge from the modern, globalised, consumerist, US-dominated world. But nobody begrudges Cuba the chance to improve lifestyles. |
| “It’s always exotic to visit a place with a different political system. That attracts a lot of people. But that’s not the most important thing. It will be good for people to move away from communism”, said Thore Strane, a Norwegian. “Even if more American influence changes Cuba, that’s OK. Cuban people will always be special. It won’t be possible for Americans and Europeans to change them. The Latin blood is strong”. | “It’s always exotic to visit a place with a different political system. That attracts a lot of people. But that’s not the most important thing. It will be good for people to move away from communism”, said Thore Strane, a Norwegian. “Even if more American influence changes Cuba, that’s OK. Cuban people will always be special. It won’t be possible for Americans and Europeans to change them. The Latin blood is strong”. |
| But while Cuba may not have changed at the pace of the outside world, it is no North Korean-style Stalinist theme park. The ideological lines have been blurring for more than a decade, and culturally this has always been a very open society. On the radio, you are as likely to hear a US rapper as a salsa band. US major league baseball is a now a staple of TV broadcasts and the eclectic street fashion has a place for Stars and Stripes pants and New York Yankee caps. | But while Cuba may not have changed at the pace of the outside world, it is no North Korean-style Stalinist theme park. The ideological lines have been blurring for more than a decade, and culturally this has always been a very open society. On the radio, you are as likely to hear a US rapper as a salsa band. US major league baseball is a now a staple of TV broadcasts and the eclectic street fashion has a place for Stars and Stripes pants and New York Yankee caps. |
| Without exception, every Cuban this journalist spoke to in Havana is optimistic about the overall prospects of improved US relations. | Without exception, every Cuban this journalist spoke to in Havana is optimistic about the overall prospects of improved US relations. |
| There are concerns, too, that closer ties could bring problems of drugs and crime. Central America and the Caribbean is the most violent region on Earth, largely due to the narcotics trade with the US and the proliferation of guns. Honduras, El Salvador, Venezuela and Jamaica have some of the highest murder rates in the world, but Cuba has been a relative haven of public security thanks to its strict border controls and focus on social rather than individual good. There are understandable fears that an influx of US trade and ideas could erode this. | There are concerns, too, that closer ties could bring problems of drugs and crime. Central America and the Caribbean is the most violent region on Earth, largely due to the narcotics trade with the US and the proliferation of guns. Honduras, El Salvador, Venezuela and Jamaica have some of the highest murder rates in the world, but Cuba has been a relative haven of public security thanks to its strict border controls and focus on social rather than individual good. There are understandable fears that an influx of US trade and ideas could erode this. |
| “We have the safest nation in Latin America thanks to the controls. When they are relaxed, I’m worried there will be more crime and drugs”, said businessman Fabian Reyes. | “We have the safest nation in Latin America thanks to the controls. When they are relaxed, I’m worried there will be more crime and drugs”, said businessman Fabian Reyes. |
| But even the old revolutionaries accept that change is already underway by a younger generation who have moved faster than the governments. | But even the old revolutionaries accept that change is already underway by a younger generation who have moved faster than the governments. |
| Outside the US consulate – near the defiant patriotic slogans “Patria o Muerte!” and “Victory” engraved into a giant independence monument – Hermania Arufat says she is excited to go to Florida and finally visit her daughter and grandchildren, who moved there four years ago. | Outside the US consulate – near the defiant patriotic slogans “Patria o Muerte!” and “Victory” engraved into a giant independence monument – Hermania Arufat says she is excited to go to Florida and finally visit her daughter and grandchildren, who moved there four years ago. |
| “I was sad when they left. I couldn’t accept it at first because we are Cuban. This is our home. But my son is the same. All he thinks about is going to the US. That’s just how it is”, she says. “Now our two countries can be friends. That makes me happy. But I am worried the US government will try to control us more now. Cuba must also stay free.” | “I was sad when they left. I couldn’t accept it at first because we are Cuban. This is our home. But my son is the same. All he thinks about is going to the US. That’s just how it is”, she says. “Now our two countries can be friends. That makes me happy. But I am worried the US government will try to control us more now. Cuba must also stay free.” |