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Why do Americans love ancient grains? | Why do Americans love ancient grains? |
(about 3 hours later) | |
Would you like to taste the health-giving grain found in the tomb of King Tutankhamun? Or feast on the unprocessed kernels said to have been stored on the ark by Noah? Or how about a vodka made from traditionally farmed Bolivian quinoa? If any of this whets your appetite, you are not alone. | Would you like to taste the health-giving grain found in the tomb of King Tutankhamun? Or feast on the unprocessed kernels said to have been stored on the ark by Noah? Or how about a vodka made from traditionally farmed Bolivian quinoa? If any of this whets your appetite, you are not alone. |
In the past five years there has been an explosion in popularity of so-called "ancient grains" in the American food market. | In the past five years there has been an explosion in popularity of so-called "ancient grains" in the American food market. |
There is no comprehensive list of "ancient" grains, but the category is generally agreed to include amaranth, barley, bulgur, buckwheat, kamut, millet, spelt, teff and quinoa. | There is no comprehensive list of "ancient" grains, but the category is generally agreed to include amaranth, barley, bulgur, buckwheat, kamut, millet, spelt, teff and quinoa. |
Many of these grains - Bolivian quinoa and Ethiopian teff, for example - have been planted and harvested in the same way for thousands of years. | Many of these grains - Bolivian quinoa and Ethiopian teff, for example - have been planted and harvested in the same way for thousands of years. |
"It's been a positive perfect storm for these ancient grains," says Cynthia Harriman, director of food and nutritional strategies at the non-profit organisation, the Whole Grain Council. | "It's been a positive perfect storm for these ancient grains," says Cynthia Harriman, director of food and nutritional strategies at the non-profit organisation, the Whole Grain Council. |
"They fit with our desire to look for a super-food, a magic bullet we should be eating," she says. | "They fit with our desire to look for a super-food, a magic bullet we should be eating," she says. |
Ancient grains are perceived as the opposite of modern wheat, which is the descendant of three ancient strains of wheat - spelt, einkorn and emmer - and often heavily refined. | Ancient grains are perceived as the opposite of modern wheat, which is the descendant of three ancient strains of wheat - spelt, einkorn and emmer - and often heavily refined. |
They are seen as more healthy, more natural and better for us, providing more vitamins, minerals, fibre and protein than modern wheat - partly because they are rarely eaten in processed form. | They are seen as more healthy, more natural and better for us, providing more vitamins, minerals, fibre and protein than modern wheat - partly because they are rarely eaten in processed form. |
Ancient grains | Ancient grains |
• Amaranth - a grain, used by the Aztecs, which is both gluten and wheat-free and is a source of vitamin C | |
• Barley - an excellent source of fibre, manganese, selenium, and thiamine | • Barley - an excellent source of fibre, manganese, selenium, and thiamine |
• Bulgur - a quick-cooking form of whole wheat which is high in manganese | • Bulgur - a quick-cooking form of whole wheat which is high in manganese |
• Kamut - has a nutty flavour and is high in fibre, protein and several minerals, including selenium and manganese. | • Kamut - has a nutty flavour and is high in fibre, protein and several minerals, including selenium and manganese. |
• Millet - a small, whole grain is a staple in many Asian and African countries but thought of mostly as bird food in the United States | • Millet - a small, whole grain is a staple in many Asian and African countries but thought of mostly as bird food in the United States |
• Spelt - commonly eaten in medieval times, spelt is part of the wheat family and is high in protein and fibre | • Spelt - commonly eaten in medieval times, spelt is part of the wheat family and is high in protein and fibre |
• Teff - common in Ethiopia, this grain has the highest calcium content | • Teff - common in Ethiopia, this grain has the highest calcium content |
• Quinoa - perhaps the best known ancient grain, quinoa is a complete protein since it has all nine essential amino acids | • Quinoa - perhaps the best known ancient grain, quinoa is a complete protein since it has all nine essential amino acids |
Source: Today's Dietitian | Source: Today's Dietitian |
Many of the grains are also gluten-free, or at least low in gluten, tapping into a growing demand from consumers. | Many of the grains are also gluten-free, or at least low in gluten, tapping into a growing demand from consumers. |
Part of the popularity of these grains are the stories that surround them, says Harriman. | Part of the popularity of these grains are the stories that surround them, says Harriman. |
"We're drawn to the idea that kamut comes from King Tutankhamun's tomb, the story draws our attention," she says. | "We're drawn to the idea that kamut comes from King Tutankhamun's tomb, the story draws our attention," she says. |
"It's a revolt against processed food. It's the opposite of modern." | "It's a revolt against processed food. It's the opposite of modern." |
Other nutritionists agree. | Other nutritionists agree. |
"Aztec, Indian, African," says Vandana Sheth, nutritionist and spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. | "Aztec, Indian, African," says Vandana Sheth, nutritionist and spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. |
"People might be more interested in trying these grains because of their place of origin, history and the culture," she says. | "People might be more interested in trying these grains because of their place of origin, history and the culture," she says. |
One of the first references to ancient grains as a health food was in an article in the New York Daily News in 1996. | One of the first references to ancient grains as a health food was in an article in the New York Daily News in 1996. |
Since then they have seen a steady surge in popularity, with a huge increase in consumption over the past five years, particularly in the last year. | Since then they have seen a steady surge in popularity, with a huge increase in consumption over the past five years, particularly in the last year. |
According to figures released by the US Whole Grains Council, sales of kamut rose 686% in the year from July 2013, while sales of spelt rose by 363% and amaranth by 123% - all, admittedly, from a low base. | According to figures released by the US Whole Grains Council, sales of kamut rose 686% in the year from July 2013, while sales of spelt rose by 363% and amaranth by 123% - all, admittedly, from a low base. |
Such growth figures have spurred the processed food industry to take notice, especially against a backdrop of falling sales of breakfast cereals. | Such growth figures have spurred the processed food industry to take notice, especially against a backdrop of falling sales of breakfast cereals. |
"In the past year ancient grains saw a 50% growth across all categories, and a 44% growth in the cereal category," says Alan Cunningham, marketing manager for new products for the food giant General Mills. | "In the past year ancient grains saw a 50% growth across all categories, and a 44% growth in the cereal category," says Alan Cunningham, marketing manager for new products for the food giant General Mills. |
The company has announced it will be launching a new line of its successful breakfast cereal, Cheerios, with ancient grains next year. | The company has announced it will be launching a new line of its successful breakfast cereal, Cheerios, with ancient grains next year. |
"It's a way to bring this product into the mainstream," Cunningham says. | "It's a way to bring this product into the mainstream," Cunningham says. |
"Consumers may feel that the barrier to eating ancient grains is that they're not convenient, so we figured a way to deliver them in a bowl of cereal." | "Consumers may feel that the barrier to eating ancient grains is that they're not convenient, so we figured a way to deliver them in a bowl of cereal." |
But this will also mean including five times as much sugar as in the original Cheerios recipe - 5g of sugar per 28g serving, instead of just 1g - though, as Cunningham points out, about half as much as in the company's best seller, Honey Nut Cheerios. | But this will also mean including five times as much sugar as in the original Cheerios recipe - 5g of sugar per 28g serving, instead of just 1g - though, as Cunningham points out, about half as much as in the company's best seller, Honey Nut Cheerios. |
"We feel great about the health profile of this Cheerios," he says. | "We feel great about the health profile of this Cheerios," he says. |
But the addition of sugar and heavy processing has led some to accuse companies like General Mills of cynically making money from the "health halo" surrounding ancient grains. | But the addition of sugar and heavy processing has led some to accuse companies like General Mills of cynically making money from the "health halo" surrounding ancient grains. |
"Like any grain they can be used in a healthy or unhealthy way," says Hemi Weingarten, founder and CEO of the food blog site Fooducate. | "Like any grain they can be used in a healthy or unhealthy way," says Hemi Weingarten, founder and CEO of the food blog site Fooducate. |
"The gullible consumer is going to buy more if it sounds healthy," he says. | "The gullible consumer is going to buy more if it sounds healthy," he says. |
Nutritionists argue that consumers should look at carefully at nutrition labels before buying processed food, to check for the amount of whole grains, and of added ingredients, such as sugar. | Nutritionists argue that consumers should look at carefully at nutrition labels before buying processed food, to check for the amount of whole grains, and of added ingredients, such as sugar. |
"I have heard industry analysts talking about taking advantage of the ancient grains trend," says nutritionist Cynthia Harriman. | "I have heard industry analysts talking about taking advantage of the ancient grains trend," says nutritionist Cynthia Harriman. |
"With ancient grains on the label, you could increase the price by 50-300%," she says. | "With ancient grains on the label, you could increase the price by 50-300%," she says. |
The main barrier standing in the way of incorporating more ancient grains into the American diet is a shortage in supply. | The main barrier standing in the way of incorporating more ancient grains into the American diet is a shortage in supply. |
There are also concerns that the exploding market for the grains could have an adverse effect on populations that have eaten them for centuries, the quinoa-growers of Bolivia, for example. | There are also concerns that the exploding market for the grains could have an adverse effect on populations that have eaten them for centuries, the quinoa-growers of Bolivia, for example. |
But experts do not see this as a passing fad. | But experts do not see this as a passing fad. |
"By incorporating ancient grains, we'll benefit by not only getting more whole grains but enjoying a wider array of flavours, textures and nutritional profiles," says Vandana Sheth. | "By incorporating ancient grains, we'll benefit by not only getting more whole grains but enjoying a wider array of flavours, textures and nutritional profiles," says Vandana Sheth. |
"Although they are currently thought of as a hot trend, I believe that ancient grains are here to stay." | "Although they are currently thought of as a hot trend, I believe that ancient grains are here to stay." |
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