Code names, footwear fines and Instagram shaming: inside the secretive world of London's sock club

http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2014/dec/10/inside-secretive-world-londons-sock-club

Version 0 of 1.

The mysterious Sock Club London is, in its own words, “a newly formed club and movement set out to elevate and champion men’s hosiery … formed of a collective of like-minded individuals with shared passions, and led by member 001 and member 002.” Having arranged a clandestine meeting with 001 and 002 in a Soho coffee house, I asked whether they are allowed to talk about Sock Club, whether they are allowed to talk about Sock Club, and how to avoid losing a sock in the wash ever again.

I first heard of Sock Club London after writing an article in this paper about the world’s second-most expensive socks, when I was tagged into a discussion on ​the club’s sock-obsessed Instagram account. Soon I discovered that one could join by application only, and that upon joining one is anointed with a number –​ like that episode of ​The Simpsons in which Homer joins the ancient, secret society of the Stonecutters. As it turns out, Sock Club likes the anonymity of numbers so much that, when I ask to meet 001 and 002, they suggest a coffee shop known only by its number: No. 193 in Soho.

When I meet them, 001 is a round-faced, talkative Englishman with a background in fashion retail, while 002 is a more reserved Welsh photographer with salt-and-pepper hair and spectacles. They refer to themselves only by their numbers. Both are highly affable, but I ​try nonetheless to resist their charms​; I’m wary of waking up in a strange wood​ wearing nothing but socks and an owl mask. Their club motto, after all, is: “No apologies, no regrets.”

Over coffee, they tell me that their club has already had a couple of hundred successful applicants​, most of whom heard about it through word of mouth. Every one ​has his or her – and I assume it’s mostly his – own black membership card, embossed on the front with a unique number​ and on the back with the command that “the First Rule of Sock Club must be adhered to​”. They won’t​ tell me what the First Rule is, though. “Can you reveal any of the rules?” I ask, politely. “No!” they say.

What this Sock Club offers for its £20 application fee is a pair of socks from its exclusive collaborations with Pantherella, Corgi and Chup, and invitations to its special, members-only events. I​ imagine​ these as being like the masonic orgy from Eyes Wide Shut, but they tell me they’re more like chats in coffee shops. Actually, they’re rather affronted when I ask if there’s a fetish element to their activities. It’s a real sock-in-mouth moment.

“We used to meet up and have a coffee,” says 002, “and we would take sneaky photographs​ and expose people for wearing bad socks on Instagram,​ much like I was planning to do with you later ​today.” (I’m wearing beige socks with grey flannel trousers, and they both thoroughly disapprove.) “We would have a laugh, have a coffee and talk about people’s socks,” he continues. “We would see that socks shouldn’t be neglected, that socks can be designed beautifully and should be worn proudly.​”

Indeed, socks are experiencing something of a boom at the moment – U​S​ shoppers spent $2.8b​n (£1.8b​n) on men’s socks in 2013, up 14% ​from 2012, which was the biggest increase of any item of men’s clothing – and 001 and 002 are socks’ cognoscenti. Today, both are wearing their own collaboration with artisan Japanese sock-maker Chup;​ indeed, 002 ​recently travelled to its small factory a couple of hours outside ​Tokyo to admire its low-gauge stocking frame machines. “If beautiful​ is the word,” he recalls, “it was a beautiful sock factory.”

Towards the end of our conversation, 001 and 002 hand me a black box containing a pair of socks bearing the words “no regrets”, and a black card. I have been ordained as an honorary member – number 047 – and I’m delighted. Now, I have no idea whether or not women have secret fashion clubs, but, if so, I​ imagine ​they are very, very different. Whenever I try to explain the concept of Sock Club London to female friends, they scoff at me. ”What’s wrong with you men?​” they gasp, rolling their eyes in exasperation. Nonetheless, there’s something about this Sock Club that touches me deep inside. There’s a feeling of warmth​ and community​ and comfort; the emotional comfort of belonging, coupled with the physical comfort of a nice woolly sock. What could be better?

Sock Club London’s thoughts on sock etiquette

On shoes and no socks ...

001: “There’s a rule that covers this one. Invisible socks are fine, but no socks? ​It’s an on-the-spot fine, it’s a strong talking-to, and it’s probably a stand-up argument​. Brogues, jeans, no socks:​ we have to stand up and really try ​to help people see the error of their ways.”

On socks and sandals ...

001: “I’ve seen a lot of Japanese guys wearing the Birkenstock covered sandal with Chup socks and they look fantastic. Socks and sliders, which was a big look this summer, can work. Socks and open-toed sandals, reminiscent of how my father used to dress, should be shunned.”

On white socks ...

002: “With a pair of black brogues and suit trousers? Never.”

001: “This is where the club might rupture; I think if you’ve got a pair of crisp, clean white socks on, it can be a killer outfit.”

On how often you should change your socks ...

001: “At least once a day. At least twice if you’re going out on an evening adventure.”

002: “You have to wear two different pairs a day, don’t you?”

On how not to lose your socks in the washing machine ...

001: “The best thing you can do is ​hand-wash your socks. Don’t put them in a tumble dryer, either, air-dry them.​ And don’t roll them together, just keep them flat and fold the top.”

On the best sock brands around the world …

Ayame from Japan;​ Chup from Japan;​ Corgi from Wales;​ Happy Socks from Sweden;​ Missoni from Italy;​ Pantherella from England;​ Stance Socks from the US.