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Inequality on show in Filipino resort Inequality on show in Filipino resort
(5 days later)
By Jonathan Fryer BBC News, PhilippinesBy Jonathan Fryer BBC News, Philippines
The wealthier residents of the Philippines capital Manila escape the heat and smog of the city in the highlands of the southern Luzon region. But as our correspondent has been discovering at the hilltop resort of Tagaytay, even there it is impossible to escape the glaring inequalities of Filipino society.The wealthier residents of the Philippines capital Manila escape the heat and smog of the city in the highlands of the southern Luzon region. But as our correspondent has been discovering at the hilltop resort of Tagaytay, even there it is impossible to escape the glaring inequalities of Filipino society.
Imelda Marcos's shoe collection once epitomised Filipino decadenceImelda Marcos's shoe collection once epitomised Filipino decadence
As dawn breaks over Lake Taal the fluffy clouds that hang low in the sky turn salmon pink.As dawn breaks over Lake Taal the fluffy clouds that hang low in the sky turn salmon pink.
The landscape mutates from black to green and in the middle of the lake the outline of the Taal volcano emerges, a perfect cone but with its top blown off.The landscape mutates from black to green and in the middle of the lake the outline of the Taal volcano emerges, a perfect cone but with its top blown off.
That explosion occurred in 1754 destroying the nearby Spanish colonial town.That explosion occurred in 1754 destroying the nearby Spanish colonial town.
As the local authorities stress with pride, Taal is the smallest active volcano in the world.As the local authorities stress with pride, Taal is the smallest active volcano in the world.
In fact, seen from the ridge of Tagaytay, 600 metres above, it looks artificial as if built as part of a movie set that was left behind when the film makers had finished their work.In fact, seen from the ridge of Tagaytay, 600 metres above, it looks artificial as if built as part of a movie set that was left behind when the film makers had finished their work.
The restaurant was extraordinary - a large hangar whose walls and roof were made of opaque plastic sheets.The restaurant was extraordinary - a large hangar whose walls and roof were made of opaque plastic sheets.
It is not yet 0600 but already the road running along the ridge into Tagaytay town is a hive of activity as market gardeners pile up elaborate displays of chrysanthemums, begonias and other temperate potted plants, banked up in eye-catching profusion.It is not yet 0600 but already the road running along the ridge into Tagaytay town is a hive of activity as market gardeners pile up elaborate displays of chrysanthemums, begonias and other temperate potted plants, banked up in eye-catching profusion.
Between these gorgeous displays little children are making their own piles of pineapples harvested from adjacent fields.Between these gorgeous displays little children are making their own piles of pineapples harvested from adjacent fields.
All are waiting for day-trippers and weekenders from Manila to drive by and stop, though there are so many flower sellers and so many pineapple stores competing that one wonders how any of them can make a decent living.All are waiting for day-trippers and weekenders from Manila to drive by and stop, though there are so many flower sellers and so many pineapple stores competing that one wonders how any of them can make a decent living.
Designer fashionDesigner fashion
And from the ragged clothes of some of the children it is clear that most of them do not.And from the ragged clothes of some of the children it is clear that most of them do not.
As I was pondering this conjunction of natural abundance and human poverty the other day, I spotted a middle aged Filipino lady dressed all in white.As I was pondering this conjunction of natural abundance and human poverty the other day, I spotted a middle aged Filipino lady dressed all in white.
She was standing to one side of a lane running down the hill with a vague air of someone waiting for their driver to pick them up.She was standing to one side of a lane running down the hill with a vague air of someone waiting for their driver to pick them up.
Her trouser suit was of the finest raw cotton and clearly made by a fashion designer, not off the peg.Her trouser suit was of the finest raw cotton and clearly made by a fashion designer, not off the peg.
It even had slits in the shoulder and back through which the chain of her beautiful embroidered tiny handbag could be threaded leaving her two hands free.It even had slits in the shoulder and back through which the chain of her beautiful embroidered tiny handbag could be threaded leaving her two hands free.
Long lunchLong lunch
And on her head she wore a large straw hat embellished with ribbons which would not have looked out of place at a Buckingham Palace garden party.And on her head she wore a large straw hat embellished with ribbons which would not have looked out of place at a Buckingham Palace garden party.
This, I soon discovered, was Sonia - one of the formidable local businesswomen who have made Tagaytay a Mecca for organic gastronomy.This, I soon discovered, was Sonia - one of the formidable local businesswomen who have made Tagaytay a Mecca for organic gastronomy.
Any well planned excursion to the resort includes a long lunch at Sonia's or at Josephine's - or one of the other establishments named after their proprietor.Any well planned excursion to the resort includes a long lunch at Sonia's or at Josephine's - or one of the other establishments named after their proprietor.
Sonia was keen to show me round her own place.Sonia was keen to show me round her own place.
This involved walking down a lane that could have been leading to any little farm but instead half hidden among the trees were traditional style wooden buildings each with its own hand-painted sign - Sonia's Teahouse, Sonia's Greenhouse, even Sonia's Massage.This involved walking down a lane that could have been leading to any little farm but instead half hidden among the trees were traditional style wooden buildings each with its own hand-painted sign - Sonia's Teahouse, Sonia's Greenhouse, even Sonia's Massage.
The restaurant was extraordinary - a large hangar whose walls and roof were made of opaque plastic sheets.The restaurant was extraordinary - a large hangar whose walls and roof were made of opaque plastic sheets.
In keeping with Sonia's ecological mission there was no air conditioning but instead cold water ran continuously down the outside of the plastic sheeting, giving one the impression of sitting through a tropical downpour.In keeping with Sonia's ecological mission there was no air conditioning but instead cold water ran continuously down the outside of the plastic sheeting, giving one the impression of sitting through a tropical downpour.
The slightly surreal atmosphere of the place was heightened by the fact that from the rafters hung elaborate glass chandeliers, and there were more flower beds than tables inside the restaurant.The slightly surreal atmosphere of the place was heightened by the fact that from the rafters hung elaborate glass chandeliers, and there were more flower beds than tables inside the restaurant.
'Angry bees''Angry bees'
All the produce put on the table for my tasting was home-grown or home-reared.All the produce put on the table for my tasting was home-grown or home-reared.
The staple food was pasta accompanied by a score of different sauces, vegetables, nuts, fruits and egg - all far more flavourful than anything one might buy in a supermarket.The staple food was pasta accompanied by a score of different sauces, vegetables, nuts, fruits and egg - all far more flavourful than anything one might buy in a supermarket.
As the place was packed by lunchtime this is a formula that obviously works.As the place was packed by lunchtime this is a formula that obviously works.
It was something of a shock to emerge from this oasis and to walk up Tagaytay's main street trying hard not to get knocked over by the motorised tricycle cabs that dart around like angry bees.It was something of a shock to emerge from this oasis and to walk up Tagaytay's main street trying hard not to get knocked over by the motorised tricycle cabs that dart around like angry bees.
But immediately my eye was caught by the sight of a young girl dressed all in black who was struggling down the road with a vast old television set under one arm.But immediately my eye was caught by the sight of a young girl dressed all in black who was struggling down the road with a vast old television set under one arm.
Manila presents a stark and shocking contrast of rich and poorManila presents a stark and shocking contrast of rich and poor
I watched transfixed as she headed for the nearest pawn shop of which there are at least a dozen in that stretch of road.I watched transfixed as she headed for the nearest pawn shop of which there are at least a dozen in that stretch of road.
From the resigned look on her face, it was obviously not the first time she had had to make ends meet by pawning her television and I doubt that it will be the last.From the resigned look on her face, it was obviously not the first time she had had to make ends meet by pawning her television and I doubt that it will be the last.
For Maria, as the girl in black was called, depends, as so many millions of Filipinos do, on remittances from relatives who work abroad as house-maids in Hong Kong or nurses in Britain or as stewards and cabin crew on cruise liners.For Maria, as the girl in black was called, depends, as so many millions of Filipinos do, on remittances from relatives who work abroad as house-maids in Hong Kong or nurses in Britain or as stewards and cabin crew on cruise liners.
And when the remittances do not come, or are late, there is no food to put on the table unless they take something into hock or find something to sell.And when the remittances do not come, or are late, there is no food to put on the table unless they take something into hock or find something to sell.
One does not need to be in Tagaytay long to realise that even in a relatively privileged community like this there are far more Marias than Sonias in town.One does not need to be in Tagaytay long to realise that even in a relatively privileged community like this there are far more Marias than Sonias in town.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 28 October, 2006 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 28 October, 2006 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.