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Enough with Ebola. In this Liberian city, it’s time to dance. Enough with Ebola. In this Liberian city, it’s time to dance.
(about 2 hours later)
GANTA, Liberia — They spend their days avoiding physical contact and their nights holding each other under flashing neon lights, crowding the dance floor when their song comes on in the club.GANTA, Liberia — They spend their days avoiding physical contact and their nights holding each other under flashing neon lights, crowding the dance floor when their song comes on in the club.
This is what it’s like to be young in Liberia. You watch pickup trucks full of bodies weave through traffic. You douse yourself in chlorine a dozen times a day. You try to avoid becoming another victim of a disease that no one totally understands.This is what it’s like to be young in Liberia. You watch pickup trucks full of bodies weave through traffic. You douse yourself in chlorine a dozen times a day. You try to avoid becoming another victim of a disease that no one totally understands.
And then the sun sets, and it’s your friend’s birthday, or you just broke up with your boyfriend or you're trying your best to remember what Friday night used to be like before Ebola descended on Liberia. And then the sun sets, and it’s your friend’s birthday, or you just broke up with your boyfriend, or you're trying your best to remember what Friday night used to be like before Ebola descended on Liberia.
(Related photos: A reporter’s journey through an Ebola-stricken Liberia)(Related photos: A reporter’s journey through an Ebola-stricken Liberia)
Let’s say you live in Ganta, a sprawling city of 200,000 on the border with Guinea. Let’s say it’s 9 p.m. and you have a few hours before a government curfew is enforced. You might end up at Club Dalvino.Let’s say you live in Ganta, a sprawling city of 200,000 on the border with Guinea. Let’s say it’s 9 p.m. and you have a few hours before a government curfew is enforced. You might end up at Club Dalvino.
On the wall there are hand-painted portraits of American hip-hop stars: Snoop Dogg, Rick Ross, Jay-Z. The DJ is playing a mix of U.S. rap and West African R&B.On the wall there are hand-painted portraits of American hip-hop stars: Snoop Dogg, Rick Ross, Jay-Z. The DJ is playing a mix of U.S. rap and West African R&B.
It’s Arielle Johnson’s 18th birthday and her friends can't let her celebrate at home. Home is where they mourn and worry and isolate themselves when they think they might have developed a symptom a fever, a cough, anything. It’s Arielle Johnson’s 18th birthday, and her friends can't let her celebrate at home. Home is where they mourn and worry and isolate themselves when they think they might have developed a symptom — a fever, a cough, anything.
So William Tobe takes Johnson by the hand. He walks her to the stage. He wraps his arm around her waist and they lean into each other until they're both smiling and laughing and a million miles away from the Ebola treatment center that is actually a half-mile away.So William Tobe takes Johnson by the hand. He walks her to the stage. He wraps his arm around her waist and they lean into each other until they're both smiling and laughing and a million miles away from the Ebola treatment center that is actually a half-mile away.
“Sometimes you have to escape your circumstances,” Tobe, 20, says when they’ve taken a break from dancing.“Sometimes you have to escape your circumstances,” Tobe, 20, says when they’ve taken a break from dancing.
Ganta used to be one of Liberia’s most vibrant cities. On any given night, people would cross the borders from Guinea or Ivory Coast to dance here, and the clubs filled with English and French conversation, shouted over the throbbing bass.Ganta used to be one of Liberia’s most vibrant cities. On any given night, people would cross the borders from Guinea or Ivory Coast to dance here, and the clubs filled with English and French conversation, shouted over the throbbing bass.
“Ganta never sleeps, we used to say,” said Amara Dunzo, 34.“Ganta never sleeps, we used to say,” said Amara Dunzo, 34.
Since July, there have been at least 100 Ebola cases probably many more. The borders are closed. For a few weeks, Club Dalvino was empty. Having fun felt inappropriate, insulting to the dead. Since July, there have been at least 100 Ebola cases probably many more. The borders are closed. For a few weeks, Club Dalvino was empty. Having fun felt inappropriate, insulting to the dead.
No one knows which direction the epidemic is headed in Ganta or anywhere else.No one knows which direction the epidemic is headed in Ganta or anywhere else.
But there have been at least several days of relative quiet. And on Friday, it felt okay to spend a few hours at Club Dalvino, breaking some of the rules Ebola had imposed. They could dance with people they trusted, they told themselves, as long as they were healthy.But there have been at least several days of relative quiet. And on Friday, it felt okay to spend a few hours at Club Dalvino, breaking some of the rules Ebola had imposed. They could dance with people they trusted, they told themselves, as long as they were healthy.
“We washed our hands,” said Isha Bangara, pointing to a tank of chlorinated water at the entrance. “This place feels safer than the others.”“We washed our hands,” said Isha Bangara, pointing to a tank of chlorinated water at the entrance. “This place feels safer than the others.”
Bangara had broken off her engagement in Guinea. She was newly single. She wore a short flowery dress and a long gold necklace. Her night was full of possibility.Bangara had broken off her engagement in Guinea. She was newly single. She wore a short flowery dress and a long gold necklace. Her night was full of possibility.
She walked through the door of the Dalvino. There was perfume on her neck and disinfectant on her hands. Outside it was dark, but through the windows, the club glowed in bright neon.She walked through the door of the Dalvino. There was perfume on her neck and disinfectant on her hands. Outside it was dark, but through the windows, the club glowed in bright neon.