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Many fish to fry: a taste of north Iran Many fish to fry: a taste of north Iran
(12 days later)
Every so often, when the Tehran sky is blue and the pollution isn’t suffocating, I head for downtown. The metro or the BRT (Tehran Bus Rapid Transit) have made this journey easier, especially at lunch time when peak traffic is still hours away.Every so often, when the Tehran sky is blue and the pollution isn’t suffocating, I head for downtown. The metro or the BRT (Tehran Bus Rapid Transit) have made this journey easier, especially at lunch time when peak traffic is still hours away.
Usually I end up in Lakan restaurant. This is partly a spiritual pilgrimage to old Tehran, one made by generations of my family who came from the provinces and passed on the story of the journey. But I am also lured by the imaginary smell of my favourite fish, kapoor. Usually I end up in Lakan restaurant. This is partly a spiritual pilgrimage to old Tehran, one made by generations of my family who came from the provinces and passed on the story of the journey. But I am also lured by the imaginary smell of my favourite fish, kapoor.
As I walk to the restaurant I pass old Armenian coffee shops, barbers and shoe stores. In architecture and spirit, Lakan belongs to a part of the city that has been giving way for decades to office buildings, malls and apartment complexes. In my head is a list of places I have heard about that have all gone without a trace: neighbourhoods, cafes, restaurants, shops. Each time I walk towards my favourite diner, a part of me fears it will not be there.As I walk to the restaurant I pass old Armenian coffee shops, barbers and shoe stores. In architecture and spirit, Lakan belongs to a part of the city that has been giving way for decades to office buildings, malls and apartment complexes. In my head is a list of places I have heard about that have all gone without a trace: neighbourhoods, cafes, restaurants, shops. Each time I walk towards my favourite diner, a part of me fears it will not be there.
At Lakan, the frame of the door is barely large enough for one person. Once through, there is a deep flight of stairs into a brightly lit old basement with marble tiled walls. There is a hand washing sink to your left, and the kitchen to your right. Usually, someone will be there to greet you with a warm smile, and to humbly bend to say hello.At Lakan, the frame of the door is barely large enough for one person. Once through, there is a deep flight of stairs into a brightly lit old basement with marble tiled walls. There is a hand washing sink to your left, and the kitchen to your right. Usually, someone will be there to greet you with a warm smile, and to humbly bend to say hello.
Lakan has a speciality, which it makes to the highest of standards: deep fried fish in the style of Gilan, the northern province on the Caspian Sea. ‘Fresh fish and good oil’ is the motto of the owner, Agha (Mr) Bahman, who took over the restaurant from his father, Hossein Babakhani, who founded the restaurant 40 years ago.Lakan has a speciality, which it makes to the highest of standards: deep fried fish in the style of Gilan, the northern province on the Caspian Sea. ‘Fresh fish and good oil’ is the motto of the owner, Agha (Mr) Bahman, who took over the restaurant from his father, Hossein Babakhani, who founded the restaurant 40 years ago.
In our conversations, I always hesitate to ask who will take over after Agha Bahman.In our conversations, I always hesitate to ask who will take over after Agha Bahman.
The fish is bought from the market every day and the prices written on a piece of paper stuck to a board. There are usually a few of these boards perched comfortably on their own special chair at the opening of the seating area. The waiter who seats you always asks if you need a menu, but the perks of being a regular is that you no longer do. These are a series of interconnected rooms, all lined with rows of chairs and tables. To the back, an 80s era gas heater runs at full blast in the winter.The fish is bought from the market every day and the prices written on a piece of paper stuck to a board. There are usually a few of these boards perched comfortably on their own special chair at the opening of the seating area. The waiter who seats you always asks if you need a menu, but the perks of being a regular is that you no longer do. These are a series of interconnected rooms, all lined with rows of chairs and tables. To the back, an 80s era gas heater runs at full blast in the winter.
On the walls are old pictures of Tehran, cartoons of fish and autographed photos of pre-Revolution Iranian pop singers. Located in the busy business district of Downtown, the restaurant serves predominantly business owners from the neighbourhood, tourists or families who come from all over town. Even my sister who would rather have the entire ocean population go extinct before putting a piece of fish in her mouth, eats voraciously at Lakan. “The fish doesn’t taste … fishy,” she says.On the walls are old pictures of Tehran, cartoons of fish and autographed photos of pre-Revolution Iranian pop singers. Located in the busy business district of Downtown, the restaurant serves predominantly business owners from the neighbourhood, tourists or families who come from all over town. Even my sister who would rather have the entire ocean population go extinct before putting a piece of fish in her mouth, eats voraciously at Lakan. “The fish doesn’t taste … fishy,” she says.
The mahi sefid (Caspian kutum or Caspian roach) ran for 40,000 tomans (about $12, £7.50) last time I was there.The mahi sefid (Caspian kutum or Caspian roach) ran for 40,000 tomans (about $12, £7.50) last time I was there.
This highly-prized fish is the first thing to go on the menu. But there is an array of other fish to choose from and the ghezel ala (trout) is half the price. Although in recent years north Tehran restaurants can be noticeably more expensive, this is still a high price, especially for downtown, which is usually cheaper than the north of the city.This highly-prized fish is the first thing to go on the menu. But there is an array of other fish to choose from and the ghezel ala (trout) is half the price. Although in recent years north Tehran restaurants can be noticeably more expensive, this is still a high price, especially for downtown, which is usually cheaper than the north of the city.
Outside Lakan, right around the corner you will find falafel stands and sandwich stores that will feed you for as little as 3000 tomans ($0.90, 55p). In downtown, Lakan is certainly not what most of the salesmen, students and office employees can afford.Outside Lakan, right around the corner you will find falafel stands and sandwich stores that will feed you for as little as 3000 tomans ($0.90, 55p). In downtown, Lakan is certainly not what most of the salesmen, students and office employees can afford.
My uncle remembers saving up to eat there when he came to Tehran for university. “We usually had enough at the end of the month to go as a group of friends but even back then, the mahi sefid wasn’t within a student’s budget.”My uncle remembers saving up to eat there when he came to Tehran for university. “We usually had enough at the end of the month to go as a group of friends but even back then, the mahi sefid wasn’t within a student’s budget.”
Both the uncompromising quality of its food and its humble aura help explain why Lakan has kept a solid customer base for decades. You pay near to uptown prices, but you get downtown food and hospitality.Both the uncompromising quality of its food and its humble aura help explain why Lakan has kept a solid customer base for decades. You pay near to uptown prices, but you get downtown food and hospitality.
While Lakan’s only entrée is fried fish, there are a number of side plates. The owners are from the lush green province of the north and they offer a variety of dishes special to their region. I am from the south but luckily my palette is not attached to a place and understands one word: delicious. I always order as many things as I can get away with, never being able to settle on just one.While Lakan’s only entrée is fried fish, there are a number of side plates. The owners are from the lush green province of the north and they offer a variety of dishes special to their region. I am from the south but luckily my palette is not attached to a place and understands one word: delicious. I always order as many things as I can get away with, never being able to settle on just one.
Here’s a typical selection:Here’s a typical selection:
Berenj o kareh: Light, airy butter rice.Berenj o kareh: Light, airy butter rice.
Torshi sir: garlic cloves pickled in vinegar, and (in our family recipe) pomegranate syrup: it’s a trick that gets the garlic soft and sweet faster.Torshi sir: garlic cloves pickled in vinegar, and (in our family recipe) pomegranate syrup: it’s a trick that gets the garlic soft and sweet faster.
Zeytoon parvardeh - crushed walnuts, pomegranate seeds and green olives marinated in pomegranate molasses - is the best I have ever tasted, as good as the jars we get as gifts from an aunt in the north.Zeytoon parvardeh - crushed walnuts, pomegranate seeds and green olives marinated in pomegranate molasses - is the best I have ever tasted, as good as the jars we get as gifts from an aunt in the north.
And of course, Lakan offers the crown jewel of northern appetizers: mirza ghassemi. This is charcoal roasted eggplants with tomato, garlic and eggs. Although mirza ghassemi might sound like a simple eggplant omelette, to achieve the precise silky combination of smokiness, garlic and juicy tomato takes a master.And of course, Lakan offers the crown jewel of northern appetizers: mirza ghassemi. This is charcoal roasted eggplants with tomato, garlic and eggs. Although mirza ghassemi might sound like a simple eggplant omelette, to achieve the precise silky combination of smokiness, garlic and juicy tomato takes a master.
Just to add to Lakan’s quirks, despite specializing in north Iranian cuisine, their chef is not from the north. He is a Turk from the north west of Iran, which has a very different culinary tradition. However, northerners and southerners alike, contest that he knows how to fry fish and how to make mirza ghassemi the shomali - northern - way. The fish come to the table like golden jewels, lounging on aluminium trays.Just to add to Lakan’s quirks, despite specializing in north Iranian cuisine, their chef is not from the north. He is a Turk from the north west of Iran, which has a very different culinary tradition. However, northerners and southerners alike, contest that he knows how to fry fish and how to make mirza ghassemi the shomali - northern - way. The fish come to the table like golden jewels, lounging on aluminium trays.
The girl in me has always noticed the cleanness of the place, despite it being very old. Even the very small bathroom is usually spotless. While tucked away in a basement and frying dozens of fried fish every day, the restaurant does not smell. There are ample electric fans going full blast in the kitchen, where fish is fried and rice steamed in huge copper pots. Bahman Agha believes odour is harder to oust when ingredients aren’t fresh. “If it’s fresh, no matter how strong the smell, it will not be as irritating or difficult to fan out.”The girl in me has always noticed the cleanness of the place, despite it being very old. Even the very small bathroom is usually spotless. While tucked away in a basement and frying dozens of fried fish every day, the restaurant does not smell. There are ample electric fans going full blast in the kitchen, where fish is fried and rice steamed in huge copper pots. Bahman Agha believes odour is harder to oust when ingredients aren’t fresh. “If it’s fresh, no matter how strong the smell, it will not be as irritating or difficult to fan out.”
The restaurant is open daily between 12.30 and 4 pm, and on Fridays, when we sometimes go with my family, my aunt always brings along the mint and nabat (rock sugar), the brew of choice for our post-overeating stomach aches.The restaurant is open daily between 12.30 and 4 pm, and on Fridays, when we sometimes go with my family, my aunt always brings along the mint and nabat (rock sugar), the brew of choice for our post-overeating stomach aches.
If you want the coveted mahi sefid, you have to get there in the first hour. While you order it you might remind yourself that the famed fish of the Caspian Sea is in decline due to overfishing. Or that the rights to fishing it were one of the more minor pursuits of colonial conquest. Nothing you put in your mouth comes without a story of how eating it has caused catastrophe. But once they sell out, you’re banished to option two and below.If you want the coveted mahi sefid, you have to get there in the first hour. While you order it you might remind yourself that the famed fish of the Caspian Sea is in decline due to overfishing. Or that the rights to fishing it were one of the more minor pursuits of colonial conquest. Nothing you put in your mouth comes without a story of how eating it has caused catastrophe. But once they sell out, you’re banished to option two and below.
You can get a fancy kebab in Tehran for the same price, but ask me again and again and I will choose this. I don’t know who will take over after Bahman Agha, but so long as Lakan is here, I will be also, with a jug of mint brew in my hand.You can get a fancy kebab in Tehran for the same price, but ask me again and again and I will choose this. I don’t know who will take over after Bahman Agha, but so long as Lakan is here, I will be also, with a jug of mint brew in my hand.