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Harrowing Days in the Himalayas After Deadly Blizzard Surprises Hikers Harrowing Days in the Himalayas After Deadly Blizzard Surprises Hikers
(about 3 hours later)
KATMANDU, Nepal — Freezing, exhausted and blinded by snow, Yakov Megreli, an Israeli medical student, had a few minutes to make a choice.KATMANDU, Nepal — Freezing, exhausted and blinded by snow, Yakov Megreli, an Israeli medical student, had a few minutes to make a choice.
He could spend the night shivering in a flimsy wooden tea stall with a few others, as snowdrifts crept up the walls outside and began to fall in through cracks. Or he could press forward into the blizzard with a large group of trekkers headed toward town and led by the tea shop’s owner, who promised to help them to safety if they each paid him 1,000 rupees, about $10.He could spend the night shivering in a flimsy wooden tea stall with a few others, as snowdrifts crept up the walls outside and began to fall in through cracks. Or he could press forward into the blizzard with a large group of trekkers headed toward town and led by the tea shop’s owner, who promised to help them to safety if they each paid him 1,000 rupees, about $10.
Mr. Megreli, 24, cannot quite explain why he stayed behind in the wooden shack, but that is probably why he was alive on Thursday, a survivor of the worst trekking disaster to hit Nepal’s Himalayas in recent memory.Mr. Megreli, 24, cannot quite explain why he stayed behind in the wooden shack, but that is probably why he was alive on Thursday, a survivor of the worst trekking disaster to hit Nepal’s Himalayas in recent memory.
He and around a dozen other hikers — mostly young Israelis and Germans — spent the night lying on top of one another, trying to fight off hypothermia by sharing body heat and talking about anything they could think of to keep from falling asleep. But they were a small group. The rest of their group, some 40 to 50 young people, “decided to go to Mukhtinath,” he said, in an interview from a hospital in Katmandu. “And we don’t know what happened to them.” He and around a dozen other hikers — mostly young Israelis and Germans — spent the night lying on top of one another, trying to fight off hypothermia by sharing body heat and talking about anything they could think of to keep from falling asleep. But they were a small group. The rest of their group, 40 to 50 young people, decided to go to the nearest town, Muktinath, he said, in an interview from a hospital in Katmandu. “And we don’t know what happened to them.”
Around 350 hikers were making their way across the Thorong La pass on Tuesday morning when a ferocious, lashing freak snowstorm — part of the aftermath of a cyclone that ravaged India’s eastern coast — closed in on them, burying their legs in snow and making their progress down the steep path to safety agonizingly slow. Of those, 244 reached their destination, according to Ramesh Dhamala, chairman of the Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal. Around 350 hikers were making their way across the Thorong La pass on Tuesday morning when a ferocious, lashing freak snowstorm — the tail end of a dying cyclone that had ravaged India’s eastern coast — closed in on them, burying their legs in snow and making their progress down the steep path to safety agonizingly slow. Of those, 244 reached their destination, according to Ramesh Dhamala, chairman of the Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal.
The bodies of seven trekkers, six of them visitors from other countries, were retrieved on Thursday, according to the association, bringing the number of dead to 27. Many more bodies had yet to be retrieved, presumably buried in snow along the path, which is so steep that helicopters cannot land nearby. The bodies of seven trekkers, six of them visitors from other countries, were retrieved on Thursday, according to the association, bringing the number of dead to 27. That number is expected to rise, as many bodies are presumed to be buried under several feet of snow. Trekkers who have been rescued have spoken of passing large numbers of frozen bodies as they hiked out, said Gopal Babu Shrestha, an official with Trekking Agencies.
Harry Dahal, a director of Swissa, a tour agency that caters to Israeli trekkers, said around 100 of his clients were planning to cross the pass on the day of the storm, and 40 were still missing.Harry Dahal, a director of Swissa, a tour agency that caters to Israeli trekkers, said around 100 of his clients were planning to cross the pass on the day of the storm, and 40 were still missing.
Nepal’s army and police began rescue operations after dawn on Thursday. More than 60 people were delivered to safety, and dozens more were believed to have taken shelter at a lodge near the pass, said Gopal Babu Shrestha, an official with Trekking Agencies. Nepal’s army and police force began rescue operations after dawn on Thursday, and by nightfall reported more than 70 rescues. Dozens more hikers are safe but snowbound in remote lodges.
Meanwhile, dazed survivors were arriving in Katmandu’s army hospital, wondering at the storm which had engulfed them. Meanwhile, dazed survivors were arriving in Katmandu’s army hospital, wondering at the storm that had engulfed them.
“It was a terrible experience,” Mr. Megreli said. “It seemed that everything was fine. The weather was fine. The trail was not so hard. Until the storm.”“It was a terrible experience,” Mr. Megreli said. “It seemed that everything was fine. The weather was fine. The trail was not so hard. Until the storm.”
The Annapurna Circuit, as the trekking path is called, is a popular trekking route. Those crossing the pass often stay overnight in lodges that offer thick blankets, yak-dung fires and simple foods like rice and soup, said David Ways, a travel writer who has made the journey twice. The Annapurna Circuit, as the three-week trekking path is called, is a popular route for backpackers, nicknamed the Apple Pie Trek for its famously well-stocked lodges. Guesthouses along the way provide hikers with thick blankets, yak-dung fires and simple foods like rice and soup, said David Ways, a travel writer who has made the journey twice.
In October, there would have been little worry about stormy weather, and, anyway, for the days that led up to Tuesday, Mr. Dahal said, “there was not even a drop of cloud in the sky, it was all blue sky.” October is peak season for the route because the weather is optimal. Temperatures are usually moderate, and there would have been little worry about snow. Anyway, in the days leading up to Tuesday, Mr. Dahal said, “there was not even a drop of cloud in the sky, it was all blue sky.”
Members of the Israeli group had just crossed the pass and were beginning their descent toward Mukhtinath when the wind whipped up, lashing their faces with particles of snow and making it difficult to see, Mr. Dahal said. The path is both steep and exposed, offering virtually nothing that could serve as shelter. As the snow accumulated, some hikers found that it was taking them as long as five minutes to make a single meticulous step, he said, and some hikers lost their shoes in the snow. Members of the Israeli group had just crossed the pass and were beginning their descent toward Muktinath when the wind whipped up, lashing their faces with particles of snow and making it difficult to see, Mr. Dahal said. The path is both steep and exposed, offering virtually nothing that could serve as shelter. As the snow accumulated, some hikers found that it was taking them as long as five minutes to make a single meticulous step, he said, and some hikers lost their shoes in the snow.
“It was not snowing when they started to walk down, " said Mr. Shrestha, the Trekking Agencies official. “Less than one to two hours later, they could not move. They cannot go back, they cannot go ahead.” After spending Wednesday at the site of the rescue operation, he said, many of those who died were “nearly down” to the town of Mukhtinath. Of the large group that Mr. Migreli belonged to, he said, those who stayed overnight in the tea stall survived, and were later rescued by a Nepalese Army helicopter. Linor Kajan, a hiker who survived, said she became separated from her group and got stuck in a snowdrift, unable to see, until a Nepalese guide she knew spotted her and “dragged me, really dragged me to the tea shop.”
Of those who pressed forward, some stumbled into the town just before dawn on Wednesday, but many died. Mr. Shrestha, the Trekking Agencies official, said the sudden, catastrophic storm was unlike anything he had seen in his 15-year career.
“It was not snowing when they started to walk down,” he said. “Less than one to two hours later, they could not move. They cannot go back, they cannot go ahead.” After spending Wednesday at the site of the rescue operation, he said that many of those who died had nearly reached Muktinath. Some stumbled into the town just before dawn on Wednesday.
“Everyone was freezing, everyone was trying to put their feet in the right place, slowly, slowly,” he said. “Everything looks white, and you can’t find the real path.”“Everyone was freezing, everyone was trying to put their feet in the right place, slowly, slowly,” he said. “Everything looks white, and you can’t find the real path.”
The blizzard abated Wednesday, and inside the tea stand, the small group of survivors with Mr. Megreli weighed their choices and finally decided to venture out into the waist-high snow.The blizzard abated Wednesday, and inside the tea stand, the small group of survivors with Mr. Megreli weighed their choices and finally decided to venture out into the waist-high snow.
They did so without any certainty that they would be strong enough to reach the town. “We couldn’t see the way, we didn’t know the way, and all the night it was snowing,” said Maya Ora, 21, another Israeli hiker.They did so without any certainty that they would be strong enough to reach the town. “We couldn’t see the way, we didn’t know the way, and all the night it was snowing,” said Maya Ora, 21, another Israeli hiker.
They wrote one note that they hoped would reach diplomats from their home countries, and handed it to a Nepalese guide on horseback. And they left a second handwritten note addressed to whatever stranger would next enter the building, listing all their names and asking that someone look for them, Mr. Megreli said.They wrote one note that they hoped would reach diplomats from their home countries, and handed it to a Nepalese guide on horseback. And they left a second handwritten note addressed to whatever stranger would next enter the building, listing all their names and asking that someone look for them, Mr. Megreli said.
Ms. Ora, 21, said they hiked for eight hours before they were able to get cellphone reception. At that point, they saw a Nepalese rescue helicopter. Ms. Ora, 21, said they hiked for eight hours before they were able to get cellphone reception. At that point, they saw a Nepalese rescue helicopter. Mr. Megreli credited the handwritten note, passed by the man on horseback to an Israeli guide, who then contacted Israel’s ambassador to Nepal. Ms. Ora described it as a miracle.
“All the time I thought, ‘I am going to die,'” said Ms. Ora. “This is the moment when I said, ‘It’s over. I am going home. I am going to be O.K.'” Mr. Megreli was sitting near her. “Some of us have ice burns in the fingers or feet,” he said. “We are happy that we are alive. We are O.K. We are exhausted. We don’t feel some sensations in the fingers. But everything is going to be O.K.” “All the time I thought, ‘I am going to die,' ” she said. “This is the moment when I said: ‘It’s over. I am going home. I am going to be O.K.' ”
Mr. Megreli was sitting near her. “Some of us are suffering from little medical conditions,” he said. “We are happy that we are alive. We are O.K. We are exhausted. We don’t feel some sensations in the fingers. But everything is going to be O.K.”