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Boom times for Ethiopia's coffee shops | Boom times for Ethiopia's coffee shops |
(about 2 hours later) | |
Traditionally it takes rather a long time to be served a cup of coffee in Ethiopia - but things are now speeding up. | Traditionally it takes rather a long time to be served a cup of coffee in Ethiopia - but things are now speeding up. |
As coffee plants originate from the east African nation - where they first grew wild before cultivation started in the country more than 1,000 years ago - it is perhaps unsurprising that Ethiopians take coffee drinking very seriously. | As coffee plants originate from the east African nation - where they first grew wild before cultivation started in the country more than 1,000 years ago - it is perhaps unsurprising that Ethiopians take coffee drinking very seriously. |
So much so that Ethiopia has a ceremonial method of making coffee at home that continues to this day. | So much so that Ethiopia has a ceremonial method of making coffee at home that continues to this day. |
The ceremony sees raw beans roasted over hot coals, with each person in attendance being invited to savour the smell of the fumes. The beans are then ground with a wooden pestle and mortar before finally being brewed - twice - in a clay boiling pot called a jebena. | |
While the resulting coffee is inevitably delicious, the whole process can take more than an hour. And a growing number of Ethiopians say they no longer have the time. | While the resulting coffee is inevitably delicious, the whole process can take more than an hour. And a growing number of Ethiopians say they no longer have the time. |
And so, as Ethiopia's economy continues to expand strongly, more people - led by young professionals in the capital Addis Ababa - are instead buying pre-roasted beans, or visiting coffee shops to have their favourite drink made for them. | And so, as Ethiopia's economy continues to expand strongly, more people - led by young professionals in the capital Addis Ababa - are instead buying pre-roasted beans, or visiting coffee shops to have their favourite drink made for them. |
It means boom times for the country's independent coffee roasters and cafes, who have seen their numbers rise and some are even looking to expand overseas. | It means boom times for the country's independent coffee roasters and cafes, who have seen their numbers rise and some are even looking to expand overseas. |
Surviving Communism | Surviving Communism |
The family-run Tomoca coffee shop, perhaps the best-known in Addis, lures in customers with the smell of freshly roasted coffee drifting from its chimney. | The family-run Tomoca coffee shop, perhaps the best-known in Addis, lures in customers with the smell of freshly roasted coffee drifting from its chimney. |
Located off one of the city's main shopping streets, it has been open since 1953 when it was just one of a handful of firms in Ethiopia roasting coffee. | Located off one of the city's main shopping streets, it has been open since 1953 when it was just one of a handful of firms in Ethiopia roasting coffee. |
While business was slow but steady for Tomoca during its first 20 years, times were tough when Ethiopia was ruled by a Communist dictatorship from 1974 to 1991. For those 17 years just staying in business as a private company was the priority. | While business was slow but steady for Tomoca during its first 20 years, times were tough when Ethiopia was ruled by a Communist dictatorship from 1974 to 1991. For those 17 years just staying in business as a private company was the priority. |
Since 1991 though, the firm has made up for lost time, particularly in the last couple of years, benefiting from a rapidly expanding Ethiopian economy, which grew by 9% in 2012 and 10.4% in 2013. | Since 1991 though, the firm has made up for lost time, particularly in the last couple of years, benefiting from a rapidly expanding Ethiopian economy, which grew by 9% in 2012 and 10.4% in 2013. |
Ethiopian coffee facts | Ethiopian coffee facts |
With a growing number of people in Addis now having the money - and desire - to go out for their coffee, Tomoca today has five cafes, and its turnover is growing by 70% a year. | With a growing number of people in Addis now having the money - and desire - to go out for their coffee, Tomoca today has five cafes, and its turnover is growing by 70% a year. |
The company also now has a dedicated coffee roasting plant just outside the city, which supplies supermarkets. | The company also now has a dedicated coffee roasting plant just outside the city, which supplies supermarkets. |
Wondwossen Meshesha, Tomoca's operations manager, says that the firm has finally been able to make some decent money after more than 60 years of building up its name. | Wondwossen Meshesha, Tomoca's operations manager, says that the firm has finally been able to make some decent money after more than 60 years of building up its name. |
"Now is the right time to cash in on our history," says the 28-year-old. "Our customers are really into the brand." | "Now is the right time to cash in on our history," says the 28-year-old. "Our customers are really into the brand." |
Starbucks influence | Starbucks influence |
At Alem Bunna, another of Addis's independent coffee shops, its marketing manager Getachew Woldetsadick says the city's cafe culture is booming because young professionals lead such busy lives. | At Alem Bunna, another of Addis's independent coffee shops, its marketing manager Getachew Woldetsadick says the city's cafe culture is booming because young professionals lead such busy lives. |
"They do not have time to sit at home for an hour roasting coffee," he says. | "They do not have time to sit at home for an hour roasting coffee," he says. |
Yet such customers also say they are attracted to the quality of coffee available. | Yet such customers also say they are attracted to the quality of coffee available. |
"I come here every day as I work nearby - I prefer this style," says 27-year-old accountant Tesfaye Abdissa, sitting inside Mokarar, another of Addis' coffee shops. | "I come here every day as I work nearby - I prefer this style," says 27-year-old accountant Tesfaye Abdissa, sitting inside Mokarar, another of Addis' coffee shops. |
Mokarar's owner Tigist Tegene says the secret to the popularity of her firm's coffee is that they roast it using an old wood-fired oven. | Mokarar's owner Tigist Tegene says the secret to the popularity of her firm's coffee is that they roast it using an old wood-fired oven. |
"Customers like the shine and flavour this gives the beans," she says. | "Customers like the shine and flavour this gives the beans," she says. |
At the same time, Ethiopians are not impervious to Western-style hipness. | At the same time, Ethiopians are not impervious to Western-style hipness. |
At Kaldi's Coffee, its green and white logo was inspired by US giant Starbucks, after its owner, Tseday Asrat, accompanied her husband, an Ethiopian Airlines pilot, on trips to the States. | At Kaldi's Coffee, its green and white logo was inspired by US giant Starbucks, after its owner, Tseday Asrat, accompanied her husband, an Ethiopian Airlines pilot, on trips to the States. |
Mrs Tseday now has no fewer than 22 branches in Addis, which teem with people ordering "short" and "tall" coffees. | Mrs Tseday now has no fewer than 22 branches in Addis, which teem with people ordering "short" and "tall" coffees. |
Searching for partners | Searching for partners |
As well as serving a growing domestic market, Tomoca is now eyeing increased overseas sales. | As well as serving a growing domestic market, Tomoca is now eyeing increased overseas sales. |
Customers around the world can already order its beans by mail order, and it has a deal with a partner in Japan which sees Tomoca coffee distributed to Japanese restaurants, department stores and cafes. | Customers around the world can already order its beans by mail order, and it has a deal with a partner in Japan which sees Tomoca coffee distributed to Japanese restaurants, department stores and cafes. |
Tomoca's Mr Wondwossen says the company now wants to sign similar partnerships in Europe and North America, including opening cafes under its own name. | Tomoca's Mr Wondwossen says the company now wants to sign similar partnerships in Europe and North America, including opening cafes under its own name. |
"We need to find partnerships as we cannot do this on our own," says Mr Wondwossen. | "We need to find partnerships as we cannot do this on our own," says Mr Wondwossen. |
Closer to home, the firm also plans to expand into neighbouring Djibouti, Kenya and Sudan. | Closer to home, the firm also plans to expand into neighbouring Djibouti, Kenya and Sudan. |
Alem Bunna is also on the lookout for foreign partners, to help it expand into new African markets, followed by Europe and Asia. | Alem Bunna is also on the lookout for foreign partners, to help it expand into new African markets, followed by Europe and Asia. |
Foreign invasion? | Foreign invasion? |
Yet as these small coffee roasters and shops are turning their attentions abroad, they could soon be facing competition at home from the big Western coffee chains. | Yet as these small coffee roasters and shops are turning their attentions abroad, they could soon be facing competition at home from the big Western coffee chains. |
For while government regulations currently prevent foreigners opening cafes in Ethiopia, this rule is expected to be overturned in the near future. | For while government regulations currently prevent foreigners opening cafes in Ethiopia, this rule is expected to be overturned in the near future. |
Geoff Watts, vice president at Intelligentsia Coffee, a roasting firm in Chicago, says he expects to see many global firms consider entering Ethiopia. | Geoff Watts, vice president at Intelligentsia Coffee, a roasting firm in Chicago, says he expects to see many global firms consider entering Ethiopia. |
"Some of the big coffee chains would be interested as Ethiopia is a market that really appreciates coffee, and consumes a lot per capita," he says. | "Some of the big coffee chains would be interested as Ethiopia is a market that really appreciates coffee, and consumes a lot per capita," he says. |
But those within Addis' thriving indigenous coffee scene say they are not worried by the potential arrival of foreign competitors. | But those within Addis' thriving indigenous coffee scene say they are not worried by the potential arrival of foreign competitors. |
As 19-year-old Eyerusalem Mesele, who runs a coffee stand outside a lively bar, puts it: "Customers come for my friendliness, and because they prefer traditional coffee." | As 19-year-old Eyerusalem Mesele, who runs a coffee stand outside a lively bar, puts it: "Customers come for my friendliness, and because they prefer traditional coffee." |
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