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| A bird in the hand: Yotam Ottolenghi's favourite chicken recipes | A bird in the hand: Yotam Ottolenghi's favourite chicken recipes |
| (7 months later) | |
| Proust's "episode of the madeleine" is often mentioned when people talk about food memories: the dish, meal or smell that takes us straight back in time and makes us pine with nostalgia. While the experience Proust describes is near-universal, I'd argue that we also have one chicken dish that always reminds us of home. For many in the UK, that will be the classic roast chicken, but my own chicken epiphany – or "episode of the bird" – took place a long way from the Sunday lunch table, in a hawker centre in Penang, Malaysia. It was a simple dish of Hainanese chicken rice, in which the bird is poached with ginger and spring onion, yet it's the one against which I've since compared all chicken dishes. | Proust's "episode of the madeleine" is often mentioned when people talk about food memories: the dish, meal or smell that takes us straight back in time and makes us pine with nostalgia. While the experience Proust describes is near-universal, I'd argue that we also have one chicken dish that always reminds us of home. For many in the UK, that will be the classic roast chicken, but my own chicken epiphany – or "episode of the bird" – took place a long way from the Sunday lunch table, in a hawker centre in Penang, Malaysia. It was a simple dish of Hainanese chicken rice, in which the bird is poached with ginger and spring onion, yet it's the one against which I've since compared all chicken dishes. |
| As with many memories, details have a habit of getting exaggerated, and the list of Asian ingredients I now use with chicken has been similarly embellished: palm sugar, garlic, chilli, lemongrass, tamarind, kaffir lime leaves, Chinese five spice and star anise all now vie for a place with my bird. But the background notes of ginger and spring onion are always there, too, and take me right back to that stall in Penang. | As with many memories, details have a habit of getting exaggerated, and the list of Asian ingredients I now use with chicken has been similarly embellished: palm sugar, garlic, chilli, lemongrass, tamarind, kaffir lime leaves, Chinese five spice and star anise all now vie for a place with my bird. But the background notes of ginger and spring onion are always there, too, and take me right back to that stall in Penang. |
| Twice-cooked chicken with choi sum | Twice-cooked chicken with choi sum |
| Choi sum is now sold in many supermarkets, but you can use broccolini instead – if so, before adding it to the wok, blanch for two minutes, refresh in cold water and pat dry. It is essential to marinate the chicken at least overnight, or you won't get the full impact of the soy and spices. Serves four. | Choi sum is now sold in many supermarkets, but you can use broccolini instead – if so, before adding it to the wok, blanch for two minutes, refresh in cold water and pat dry. It is essential to marinate the chicken at least overnight, or you won't get the full impact of the soy and spices. Serves four. |
| 1½ tbsp Chinese five spice2 tbsp soy sauce1½ tbsp lime juice1 tbsp maple syrupShaved skin of ½ orangeSalt8 chicken thighs, skin-on and on the bone600ml vegetable oil3.5cm piece ginger, peeled and julienned1 large chilli, deseeded and julienned2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced6 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped400g choi sum, stems cut in half lengthways, leaves cut on an angle into 6cm pieces1 tbsp oyster sauce1 lime, quartered, to serve | 1½ tbsp Chinese five spice2 tbsp soy sauce1½ tbsp lime juice1 tbsp maple syrupShaved skin of ½ orangeSalt8 chicken thighs, skin-on and on the bone600ml vegetable oil3.5cm piece ginger, peeled and julienned1 large chilli, deseeded and julienned2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced6 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped400g choi sum, stems cut in half lengthways, leaves cut on an angle into 6cm pieces1 tbsp oyster sauce1 lime, quartered, to serve |
| Mix the first five ingredients in a bowl with half a teaspoon of salt. Add the chicken, mix with your hands to coat, cover and marinate in the fridge for one to two nights. | Mix the first five ingredients in a bowl with half a teaspoon of salt. Add the chicken, mix with your hands to coat, cover and marinate in the fridge for one to two nights. |
| Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Spread the chicken thighs out in a large, high-sided baking tray, adding all the marinade. Cover with foil and roast for 30-35 minutes, until just cooked. Remove, leave to cool slightly, then strain all the cooking liquid through a sieve into a small saucepan – you should have 150-200ml – and place on a high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for five to six minutes, until only 75ml remains. Set aside until ready to serve. | Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Spread the chicken thighs out in a large, high-sided baking tray, adding all the marinade. Cover with foil and roast for 30-35 minutes, until just cooked. Remove, leave to cool slightly, then strain all the cooking liquid through a sieve into a small saucepan – you should have 150-200ml – and place on a high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for five to six minutes, until only 75ml remains. Set aside until ready to serve. |
| Put a medium, high-sided saucepan on a high heat with all but a tablespoon of the oil – it should come about 4cm up the sides of the pan. Once hot, add half the chicken thighs and fry for three minutes, turning halfway through so they go golden brown on both sides. Lift out with a slotted spoon on to a plate lined with kitchen paper, and repeat with the remaining chicken. Keep warm until ready to serve. | Put a medium, high-sided saucepan on a high heat with all but a tablespoon of the oil – it should come about 4cm up the sides of the pan. Once hot, add half the chicken thighs and fry for three minutes, turning halfway through so they go golden brown on both sides. Lift out with a slotted spoon on to a plate lined with kitchen paper, and repeat with the remaining chicken. Keep warm until ready to serve. |
| Put a wok (or large saucepan) on a medium-high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and, once hot, the ginger, chilli and garlic. Cook for two minutes, stirring constantly, until the garlic is golden brown. Add the kaffir lime leaves, choi sum, oyster sauce and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and cook for two minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove from the heat and divide between the plates. Pour over the reduction and lay two chicken thighs and a wedge of lime on top of each portion. Serve at once. | Put a wok (or large saucepan) on a medium-high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and, once hot, the ginger, chilli and garlic. Cook for two minutes, stirring constantly, until the garlic is golden brown. Add the kaffir lime leaves, choi sum, oyster sauce and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and cook for two minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove from the heat and divide between the plates. Pour over the reduction and lay two chicken thighs and a wedge of lime on top of each portion. Serve at once. |
| Roast chicken with plums, prunes and potatoes | Roast chicken with plums, prunes and potatoes |
| Lovely with lots of crusty white bread to mop up the juices. Serves three to six, depending on how hungry you are. | Lovely with lots of crusty white bread to mop up the juices. Serves three to six, depending on how hungry you are. |
| 670g Charlotte potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chunks20g thyme sprigs7cm piece ginger, peeled and grated18 dried prunes, pitted2 medium onions, peeled and quartered3 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce75ml soy sauce3 tbsp muscovado sugar7 whole star anise6 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick attached), skin lightly scored6 large plums, pitted and quartered | 670g Charlotte potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chunks20g thyme sprigs7cm piece ginger, peeled and grated18 dried prunes, pitted2 medium onions, peeled and quartered3 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce75ml soy sauce3 tbsp muscovado sugar7 whole star anise6 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick attached), skin lightly scored6 large plums, pitted and quartered |
| Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, add the potatoes and cook for 10 minutes, until almost done. Drain, refresh under cold water and shake dry, then transfer to a bowl and add all the remaining ingredients apart from the plums. Mix with your hands, massaging the sauce into the chicken, then cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least four hours, though preferably overnight. | Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, add the potatoes and cook for 10 minutes, until almost done. Drain, refresh under cold water and shake dry, then transfer to a bowl and add all the remaining ingredients apart from the plums. Mix with your hands, massaging the sauce into the chicken, then cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least four hours, though preferably overnight. |
| Heat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. In a high-sided baking tray, spread out the chicken pieces skin side up, and add all the marinade, vegetables, prunes and herbs. Cover tightly with tin foil and roast for 30 minutes. Remove, discard the foil and stir in the plums, basting the chicken as you do so; roast for a further 40-45 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has reduced to about 200ml. Leave to rest and cool for five minutes before serving. | Heat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. In a high-sided baking tray, spread out the chicken pieces skin side up, and add all the marinade, vegetables, prunes and herbs. Cover tightly with tin foil and roast for 30 minutes. Remove, discard the foil and stir in the plums, basting the chicken as you do so; roast for a further 40-45 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has reduced to about 200ml. Leave to rest and cool for five minutes before serving. |
| Satay chicken | Satay chicken |
| This will give you more satay sauce than you need, but it keeps well in the fridge. Use on raw shredded vegetable salads – white cabbage, carrots and iceberg lettuce all love it – or on white meat, tofu or grilled oily fish. With thanks to Helen Goh, for the peanut butter-less sauce. Makes eight skewers, to serve four. | This will give you more satay sauce than you need, but it keeps well in the fridge. Use on raw shredded vegetable salads – white cabbage, carrots and iceberg lettuce all love it – or on white meat, tofu or grilled oily fish. With thanks to Helen Goh, for the peanut butter-less sauce. Makes eight skewers, to serve four. |
| 4 garlic cloves, peeled30g coriander stalks, roughly chopped, plus 10g leaves7cm piece galangal (or ginger), peeled and roughly chopped 3 sticks lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and discarded, finely chopped3 medium shallots, peeled and chopped3½ tbsp sambal oelek100ml vegetable oil8 skinless and boneless chicken thighs, cut in half lengthways3 tbsp soy sauce60g palm sugar (finely grated if taken from a block)Salt8 skewers (if wooden, soaked in water for an hour)170g unsalted peanuts40g piece tamarind from a block (or 6 tbsp ready-made tamarind paste) ¾ tsp paprika150ml coconut milk1½ tsp lime juice2 limes, quartered, to serve | |
| Put the garlic, coriander stalks, galangal, lemongrass, shallots and two and a half tablespoons of sambal oelek in a food processor. Add a tablespoon of oil and blitz to a smooth, aromatic paste. Transfer a quarter of the paste to a bowl and add the chicken, a tablespoon of soy sauce, the remaining sambal oelek, a teaspoon of palm sugar and half a teaspoon of salt. Mix to combine, cover and refrigerate for at least four hours, ideally overnight. Put the remaining paste in a separate container, cover and set aside. | Put the garlic, coriander stalks, galangal, lemongrass, shallots and two and a half tablespoons of sambal oelek in a food processor. Add a tablespoon of oil and blitz to a smooth, aromatic paste. Transfer a quarter of the paste to a bowl and add the chicken, a tablespoon of soy sauce, the remaining sambal oelek, a teaspoon of palm sugar and half a teaspoon of salt. Mix to combine, cover and refrigerate for at least four hours, ideally overnight. Put the remaining paste in a separate container, cover and set aside. |
| Heat the oven to 140C/285F/gas mark 1. Spread the peanuts on a medium baking tray and roast for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown. Leave to cool a little, then tip into a food processor and blitz a few times – you want the texture to be slightly rougher than that of ground almonds. Transfer to a small saucepan, add 250ml of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, then simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring often, until it has the consistency of thick porridge. Remove from the heat and set aside. | Heat the oven to 140C/285F/gas mark 1. Spread the peanuts on a medium baking tray and roast for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown. Leave to cool a little, then tip into a food processor and blitz a few times – you want the texture to be slightly rougher than that of ground almonds. Transfer to a small saucepan, add 250ml of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, then simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring often, until it has the consistency of thick porridge. Remove from the heat and set aside. |
| Put the block of tamarind in a bowl with 100ml of boiling water and set aside to soak. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze the pulp into the water, so it forms a thick paste. Strain, discard the seeds and set aside. | Put the block of tamarind in a bowl with 100ml of boiling water and set aside to soak. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze the pulp into the water, so it forms a thick paste. Strain, discard the seeds and set aside. |
| Put a medium saucepan on a medium-low heat with 75ml of oil and the reserved spice paste. Fry very gently for 40-45 minutes, stirring a few times, until cooked through and aromatic. Add the peanut mix, tamarind paste, paprika, coconut milk, lime juice, the remaining soy and palm sugar, and a teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine, then set aside. | Put a medium saucepan on a medium-low heat with 75ml of oil and the reserved spice paste. Fry very gently for 40-45 minutes, stirring a few times, until cooked through and aromatic. Add the peanut mix, tamarind paste, paprika, coconut milk, lime juice, the remaining soy and palm sugar, and a teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine, then set aside. |
| Put two pieces of chicken on to each skewer and turn the grill to its highest setting. Wrap the ends of the skewers with tin foil (to stop them burning), brush the meat with the remaining oil and place on a wire rack on top of a foil-lined tray. Grill for 18 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the chicken is cooked through, golden brown and caramelised. Put two skewers on each plate and sprinkle with the coriander leaves. Serve at once, with the warm sauce alongside and a wedge of lime to squeeze on top. | Put two pieces of chicken on to each skewer and turn the grill to its highest setting. Wrap the ends of the skewers with tin foil (to stop them burning), brush the meat with the remaining oil and place on a wire rack on top of a foil-lined tray. Grill for 18 minutes, turning once halfway through, until the chicken is cooked through, golden brown and caramelised. Put two skewers on each plate and sprinkle with the coriander leaves. Serve at once, with the warm sauce alongside and a wedge of lime to squeeze on top. |
| • Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London. | • Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London. |
| His new book, Plenty More, is published by Ebury at £27. To order a copy for £17, go to theguardian.com/bookshop. | His new book, Plenty More, is published by Ebury at £27. To order a copy for £17, go to theguardian.com/bookshop. |
| Follow Yotam on Twitter. | Follow Yotam on Twitter. |
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