French chefs fight to put songbird back on menu

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/sep/16/french-chefs-songbird-ortolan-menu

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Four French chefs are requesting a waiver to serve a long-banned delicacy – a small songbird called the ortolan that fans including one of the country's former presidents used to devour, bones and all, while wearing a napkin over their heads.

The request for the once-a-year waiver is being lodged by, among others, Alain Ducasse, the internationally acclaimed chef, Le Parisien newspaper reported. The ortolan, which is little bigger than a child's hand, has been banned from menus in much of Europe since 1999.

The seed-eating bird is believed to have been part of François Mitterrand's last meal before he died in 1996. One customary way of preparing ortolan consists of force-feeding it until fat and dousing it in Armagnac brandy before roasting it whole in the oven.

Fans often wear a large, usually white, napkin over their head while eating. Some say it serves to conceal them while they spit out bones, some say the headgear seals in aromas, while others say it serves to fend off the shame of being seen by God eating a songbird.

The request for the right to serve ortolan one day or one weekend a year would be lodged in coming days with the French authorities, Le Parisien newspaper cited Michel Guerard, another chef with three Michelin stars, as saying.

A representative for Ducasse did not immediately answer a request for comment.