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| Kirsty Wark’s Scotland: some of my favourite places | Kirsty Wark’s Scotland: some of my favourite places |
| (about 2 months later) | |
| If I were to describe Scotland to someone who didn’t know it, I’d say it’s a place of vast lochs, gentle hills and mountains – and that it’s beautifully green. I’d add that it’s also very easy to navigate because at its narrowest, between Edinburgh and Glasgow, it is less than 50 miles wide. | If I were to describe Scotland to someone who didn’t know it, I’d say it’s a place of vast lochs, gentle hills and mountains – and that it’s beautifully green. I’d add that it’s also very easy to navigate because at its narrowest, between Edinburgh and Glasgow, it is less than 50 miles wide. |
| Though there are places in Canada, even vistas in upstate New York, that I’ve felt are very Scottish, I’d have to say nowhere can quite compare to Scotland. | |
| The first thing you should do – or taste, actually – when visiting is to find a whisky that you like and have a dram. There are plenty of wonderful whisky shops, particularly in Edinburgh, which can help you with your decision. | The first thing you should do – or taste, actually – when visiting is to find a whisky that you like and have a dram. There are plenty of wonderful whisky shops, particularly in Edinburgh, which can help you with your decision. |
| My favourite city view has to be from one end of Edinburgh’s George Street to the other. It doesn’t matter which end. I also love the view of the Glenfinnan viaduct in the Highlands. It is a wonderful piece of engineering and, of course, Scotland has bred some great engineers. Viaducts and bridges are wonderful landmarks that string the country together. | My favourite city view has to be from one end of Edinburgh’s George Street to the other. It doesn’t matter which end. I also love the view of the Glenfinnan viaduct in the Highlands. It is a wonderful piece of engineering and, of course, Scotland has bred some great engineers. Viaducts and bridges are wonderful landmarks that string the country together. |
| For a day out, the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde is a great spot. Arran is where I set my novel and there are so many things to do there: hike, swim, play golf, enjoy the beach… | For a day out, the Isle of Arran in the Firth of Clyde is a great spot. Arran is where I set my novel and there are so many things to do there: hike, swim, play golf, enjoy the beach… |
| While on Arran you can also eat and drink in lovely pubs. The Brodick Bar and Brasserie is a fantastic restaurant where the produce is locally sourced, while The Lagg Hotel is great for a drink. A place that’s changed a lot recently is the Drift Inn in Lamlash. The fish there comes straight from the harbour. Years ago, people in Scotland exported everything bar haddock and herring. Now they’ve at least got the sense to make sure we can all eat mussels, scallops and razor clams. | While on Arran you can also eat and drink in lovely pubs. The Brodick Bar and Brasserie is a fantastic restaurant where the produce is locally sourced, while The Lagg Hotel is great for a drink. A place that’s changed a lot recently is the Drift Inn in Lamlash. The fish there comes straight from the harbour. Years ago, people in Scotland exported everything bar haddock and herring. Now they’ve at least got the sense to make sure we can all eat mussels, scallops and razor clams. |
| Arran has its own festival scene with arts, folk music, and outdoor events, but I think the peace and the vistas, such as overlooking the Holy Isle, are unsurpassed. It lends itself to rumination. It’s a very peaceful environment. | Arran has its own festival scene with arts, folk music, and outdoor events, but I think the peace and the vistas, such as overlooking the Holy Isle, are unsurpassed. It lends itself to rumination. It’s a very peaceful environment. |
| I was raised going to the Ubiquitous Chip, the famous restaurant in Glasgow’s West End, but the restaurant scene there changes all the time. Recently, I was at the Ox and Finch on Sauchiehall Street, which serves a kind of Scottish tapas (such as harissa mackerel, herb salad and preserved lemon, £6), and there’s another terrific restaurant called The Gannet on Argyle Street in Finneston, which has superb including slow-cooked Borders lamb, barley risotto, mushroom and scorched leeks. Then there’s Crabshakk, which has the best fish, I think, in the west of Scotland. Amid the changes, while customers have become more demanding, in terms of quality, they’ve also become more adventurous in what they order. | I was raised going to the Ubiquitous Chip, the famous restaurant in Glasgow’s West End, but the restaurant scene there changes all the time. Recently, I was at the Ox and Finch on Sauchiehall Street, which serves a kind of Scottish tapas (such as harissa mackerel, herb salad and preserved lemon, £6), and there’s another terrific restaurant called The Gannet on Argyle Street in Finneston, which has superb including slow-cooked Borders lamb, barley risotto, mushroom and scorched leeks. Then there’s Crabshakk, which has the best fish, I think, in the west of Scotland. Amid the changes, while customers have become more demanding, in terms of quality, they’ve also become more adventurous in what they order. |
| Chef Tom Kitchin is an absolute star so I’m not going to miss the chance to suggest his Edinburgh restaurant, The Kitchin. But also try Valvona & Crolla’s Ristorante in the New Town, or any of the Contini restaurants. | |
| At the top of Byres Road in Glasgow, close to the university and Botanic Gardens, is a great arts venue called Òran Mór. It’s the kind of place to stop for coffee and a spot of people watching. Another place that’s good for that is Cafezique over on Hyndland Street. | At the top of Byres Road in Glasgow, close to the university and Botanic Gardens, is a great arts venue called Òran Mór. It’s the kind of place to stop for coffee and a spot of people watching. Another place that’s good for that is Cafezique over on Hyndland Street. |
| It’s controversial, I know, but I think Edinburgh has always had better pubs than Glasgow. In Edinburgh, I might go to the Cumberland Bar. It’s in the New Town – but it’s a very old bar. In Glasgow, I’d go and sit in The Wee Pub at the Ubiquitous Chip. | |
| If you’re after a secret tip … I have a few. Contini Caffe at the top of the Edinburgh’s Royal Mile has fabulous ice-cream. For superb cheese, go to George Mewes on Byres Road in Glasgow. And if you go to Valvona & Crolla, on Elm Row at the top of Leith Walk, don’t forget that it’s not just a deli, there’s a great cafe-bar at the back. You just need to explore a little to find it. | If you’re after a secret tip … I have a few. Contini Caffe at the top of the Edinburgh’s Royal Mile has fabulous ice-cream. For superb cheese, go to George Mewes on Byres Road in Glasgow. And if you go to Valvona & Crolla, on Elm Row at the top of Leith Walk, don’t forget that it’s not just a deli, there’s a great cafe-bar at the back. You just need to explore a little to find it. |
| Interview by Robert Hull | Interview by Robert Hull |
| Kirsty Wark’s first novel, The Legacy of Elizabeth Pringle (Two Roads, £7.99), is out in paperback on 9 October. To buy a copy for £6.39 inc. UK p&p call 0330 333 6846 or visit guardianbookshop.co.uk | Kirsty Wark’s first novel, The Legacy of Elizabeth Pringle (Two Roads, £7.99), is out in paperback on 9 October. To buy a copy for £6.39 inc. UK p&p call 0330 333 6846 or visit guardianbookshop.co.uk |
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