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Gaza: a brief glimpse of normality – and then war returns Gaza: a brief return to normality – and then war returns
(about 1 hour later)
At 8am on Friday morning, moments after the ill-fated ceasefire came into effect, Ishaq Hissi walked down to the waves lapping the beach in Gaza City. He took a small net, a bucket and his 10-year-old son, Mohammed. The night had been a tough one, with heavy firing from Israeli warships offshore and rockets fired by Hamas passing low over the city's apartment blocks before gaining altitude on their way over the border into the Jewish state.At 8am on Friday morning, moments after the ill-fated ceasefire came into effect, Ishaq Hissi walked down to the waves lapping the beach in Gaza City. He took a small net, a bucket and his 10-year-old son, Mohammed. The night had been a tough one, with heavy firing from Israeli warships offshore and rockets fired by Hamas passing low over the city's apartment blocks before gaining altitude on their way over the border into the Jewish state.
But now there was calm. For around three hours, the 51-year-old fisherman and the small boy stood together in the clear water, casting the net among the silvered shoals of sardines. The bucket began to fill. Then they heard the news. The truce was over; the war was back.But now there was calm. For around three hours, the 51-year-old fisherman and the small boy stood together in the clear water, casting the net among the silvered shoals of sardines. The bucket began to fill. Then they heard the news. The truce was over; the war was back.
"I am very, very disappointed. I expected this all along but still I hoped," Hissi said as he and his son hurried home."I am very, very disappointed. I expected this all along but still I hoped," Hissi said as he and his son hurried home.
As news of the ceasefire had spread, streets throughout Gaza had begun to fill. Queues for taxis formed. Shop shutters rattled up. Hawkers shouted at customers hurrying to buy mangoes, rice, tomatoes, sweet potatoes. Children kicked footballs or cans. A few neighbours made an effort to clear a pavement of a mountain of garbage.As news of the ceasefire had spread, streets throughout Gaza had begun to fill. Queues for taxis formed. Shop shutters rattled up. Hawkers shouted at customers hurrying to buy mangoes, rice, tomatoes, sweet potatoes. Children kicked footballs or cans. A few neighbours made an effort to clear a pavement of a mountain of garbage.
Many of those looking for cars, battered trucks or donkey carts were hoping to head home. The UN estimates that more than 400,000 people in Gaza – a quarter of the population – have been displaced, most from the three-kilometre-deep "free fire zones" declared by the Israeli army along its border. Around half have been staying in relatives' homes but a quarter of a million are sheltering in the overcrowded shelters run by the local government and the UN in rapidly deteriorating conditions.Many of those looking for cars, battered trucks or donkey carts were hoping to head home. The UN estimates that more than 400,000 people in Gaza – a quarter of the population – have been displaced, most from the three-kilometre-deep "free fire zones" declared by the Israeli army along its border. Around half have been staying in relatives' homes but a quarter of a million are sheltering in the overcrowded shelters run by the local government and the UN in rapidly deteriorating conditions.
More than 1,500 Palestinians have so far been killed and up to 8,000 injured. Medical staff, under-strength as bombing stops many getting to work, are exhausted as casualties arrive around the clock. Those medical supplies still reaching Gaza – 47 tonnes were delivered on Thursday, the Israeli ministry of defence said – are insufficient, doctors say.More than 1,500 Palestinians have so far been killed and up to 8,000 injured. Medical staff, under-strength as bombing stops many getting to work, are exhausted as casualties arrive around the clock. Those medical supplies still reaching Gaza – 47 tonnes were delivered on Thursday, the Israeli ministry of defence said – are insufficient, doctors say.
Among those hoping to return home during the brief interlude of peace was Ayman Kafarna, from the village of Beit Hanoun, in the north-east of the strip and one of the areas worst hit in the conflict. When he heard about the ceasefire, Kafarna, a policeman, left the school where he, his wife and five children had been sheltering for more than three weeks. The two-storey house built by his father 40 years ago and expanded with a crippling bank loan four years ago had been standing when he had last seen it during an earlier ceasefire last weekend, despite substantial parts of Beit Hanoun being reduced to rubble.Among those hoping to return home during the brief interlude of peace was Ayman Kafarna, from the village of Beit Hanoun, in the north-east of the strip and one of the areas worst hit in the conflict. When he heard about the ceasefire, Kafarna, a policeman, left the school where he, his wife and five children had been sheltering for more than three weeks. The two-storey house built by his father 40 years ago and expanded with a crippling bank loan four years ago had been standing when he had last seen it during an earlier ceasefire last weekend, despite substantial parts of Beit Hanoun being reduced to rubble.
But on Thursday night, during intense battles between Hamas fighters and Israeli Defence Forces troops, Kafarna's house, only a few hundred metres from a shifting but real frontline, was destroyed, probably by tank fire.But on Thursday night, during intense battles between Hamas fighters and Israeli Defence Forces troops, Kafarna's house, only a few hundred metres from a shifting but real frontline, was destroyed, probably by tank fire.
"Maybe it was being used by Hamas fighters. So the Israelis hit it. I don't know where we will live now. I took out a loan to build the new floor just four years ago. Now I have nothing but debt. We will have to ask the government to help us," Kafarna, 42, said."Maybe it was being used by Hamas fighters. So the Israelis hit it. I don't know where we will live now. I took out a loan to build the new floor just four years ago. Now I have nothing but debt. We will have to ask the government to help us," Kafarna, 42, said.
Many surrounding homes lay in ruins. An elderly woman, her face smeared with dust and ash, sobbed steadily beside one. Two mosques had been badly damaged. Dead donkeys lay putrefying in the road. Power lines snaked among mounds of broken glass on a scarred and pocked road. Local men searched broken concrete and twisted steel rods for belongings – and the remains of relatives. "There were a dozen of my cousins killed here. They were fighters with Hamas. Eleven of the bodies have been found. They haven't found the last one yet," Kafarna, who blamed Hamas for the war, said.Many surrounding homes lay in ruins. An elderly woman, her face smeared with dust and ash, sobbed steadily beside one. Two mosques had been badly damaged. Dead donkeys lay putrefying in the road. Power lines snaked among mounds of broken glass on a scarred and pocked road. Local men searched broken concrete and twisted steel rods for belongings – and the remains of relatives. "There were a dozen of my cousins killed here. They were fighters with Hamas. Eleven of the bodies have been found. They haven't found the last one yet," Kafarna, who blamed Hamas for the war, said.
Within minutes, however, the search for the 12th cousin ended hurriedly. Few in Beit Hanoun knew of what had happened earlier in the day at the other end of Gaza, where there had been fierce clashes and the apparent abduction of an Israeli soldier. But as shells began to drop around the edge of the village and there came the sound of small arms fire, it was clear that the fragile ceasefire was fast collapsing.Within minutes, however, the search for the 12th cousin ended hurriedly. Few in Beit Hanoun knew of what had happened earlier in the day at the other end of Gaza, where there had been fierce clashes and the apparent abduction of an Israeli soldier. But as shells began to drop around the edge of the village and there came the sound of small arms fire, it was clear that the fragile ceasefire was fast collapsing.
In the Gaza neighbourhood of Shujai'yah, where 24 people died on Wednesday after, according to the UN, tank shells hit a market, the ceasefire lasted slightly longer. Even at noon, men sat in the rubble discussing the situation as others searched for their belongings amid the shattered debris of their homes. For many among them, the principal concern was food. Though some trucks have been able to enter Gaza every day though the Israeli border at the Kfar Shalom checkpoint, stocks of many basics are running low. Egypt has maintained an almost total block on traffic across its border.In the Gaza neighbourhood of Shujai'yah, where 24 people died on Wednesday after, according to the UN, tank shells hit a market, the ceasefire lasted slightly longer. Even at noon, men sat in the rubble discussing the situation as others searched for their belongings amid the shattered debris of their homes. For many among them, the principal concern was food. Though some trucks have been able to enter Gaza every day though the Israeli border at the Kfar Shalom checkpoint, stocks of many basics are running low. Egypt has maintained an almost total block on traffic across its border.
"All the prices have gone up. It used to be three shekels for two kilos of tomatoes – now it is six shekels for one kilo," said Tawfiq Habib, 60. "We hope this truce will hold and we will be able to rebuild. This is our land.""All the prices have gone up. It used to be three shekels for two kilos of tomatoes – now it is six shekels for one kilo," said Tawfiq Habib, 60. "We hope this truce will hold and we will be able to rebuild. This is our land."
But even as Habib, whose house has been destroyed, spoke, it was clear that the ceasefire was over. As neighbours shouted warnings of incoming shelling, he and his friends scattered. By late afternoon, any optimism was gone. The streets of Gaza were empty again, the shops shut. Only a few vegetable sellers carried on their trade, in the phlegmatic belief that their fate was out of their hands.But even as Habib, whose house has been destroyed, spoke, it was clear that the ceasefire was over. As neighbours shouted warnings of incoming shelling, he and his friends scattered. By late afternoon, any optimism was gone. The streets of Gaza were empty again, the shops shut. Only a few vegetable sellers carried on their trade, in the phlegmatic belief that their fate was out of their hands.
"I have to make a living. Who else will pay for my kids?" said Farraj Amudi, 28, as he sold mangoes and vegetables to hurrying customers. Prices had gone up, he admitted, but he said that potatoes were worth six times the normal amount as they could be stored for a long time, lessening the need for dangerous trips out to replenish supplies."I have to make a living. Who else will pay for my kids?" said Farraj Amudi, 28, as he sold mangoes and vegetables to hurrying customers. Prices had gone up, he admitted, but he said that potatoes were worth six times the normal amount as they could be stored for a long time, lessening the need for dangerous trips out to replenish supplies.
Amudi gets up early to drive out to find farmers who will sell him their produce, but his business takes him into some of the most dangerous areas of Gaza. "If I die, I die. It is in God's hands," he said.Amudi gets up early to drive out to find farmers who will sell him their produce, but his business takes him into some of the most dangerous areas of Gaza. "If I die, I die. It is in God's hands," he said.
Some of his customers come from the Gaza Preparatory boys' school, in the centre of Gaza City, where more than 1,800 people fleeing the bombardment or fighting in the zones close to the border with Israel have been living since the beginning of the conflict.Some of his customers come from the Gaza Preparatory boys' school, in the centre of Gaza City, where more than 1,800 people fleeing the bombardment or fighting in the zones close to the border with Israel have been living since the beginning of the conflict.
The school is one of 86 shelters run by the UN, and those who now inhabit its cramped, dirty classrooms and hallways receive basic foodstuffs and medicine. But neither are sufficient, officials say. "The children are all sick with coughing, stomach problems, vomiting, and the food isn't enough. The last distribution of bread was just one small piece per person," said a UN official at the school.The school is one of 86 shelters run by the UN, and those who now inhabit its cramped, dirty classrooms and hallways receive basic foodstuffs and medicine. But neither are sufficient, officials say. "The children are all sick with coughing, stomach problems, vomiting, and the food isn't enough. The last distribution of bread was just one small piece per person," said a UN official at the school.
All are living in cramped conditions, with dozens crammed into small classrooms. Many families have the resources to buy vegetables, meat and drugs to supplement the handouts. Others, such as Fatima Attar, a 45-year-old widow with four children and a disabled mother to support, do not.All are living in cramped conditions, with dozens crammed into small classrooms. Many families have the resources to buy vegetables, meat and drugs to supplement the handouts. Others, such as Fatima Attar, a 45-year-old widow with four children and a disabled mother to support, do not.
"No one is there for us so it's very hard. The food is getting less and less but we cannot afford to buy any more. Now we just want to get home somehow. We want this to stop," Attar said."No one is there for us so it's very hard. The food is getting less and less but we cannot afford to buy any more. Now we just want to get home somehow. We want this to stop," Attar said.
Her eldest son, Mahmud, has been earning 10 shekels (£1.80) each day distributing water. He finds it difficult to imagine peace.Her eldest son, Mahmud, has been earning 10 shekels (£1.80) each day distributing water. He finds it difficult to imagine peace.
"All our lives it will be like this," the 15-year-old told the Guardian."All our lives it will be like this," the 15-year-old told the Guardian.
By nightfall, as Gaza shook to the thud of repeated explosions, the roar of outgoing rockets, the crackle of small arms fire and thump of mortars, the beach was deserted. The main functioning hospital in the city had been partly evacuated in anticipation of a possible strike. The UN reported a 10% increase in the number of displaced people in its shelters in the previous 24 hours. By nightfall, as Gaza shook to the thud of repeated explosions, the roar of outgoing rockets, the crackle of small arms fire and thump of mortars, the beach was deserted. An annexe of the main functioning hospital in the city had been partly evacuated in anticipation of a possible strike. The UN reported a 10% increase in the number of displaced people in its shelters in the previous 24 hours.
"What kind of life is this?" asked Hissi, the fisherman. "This is not a life. We just have to survive.""What kind of life is this?" asked Hissi, the fisherman. "This is not a life. We just have to survive."