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Italian Island of Elba Clings to Napoleon’s Legacy Italian Island of Elba Clings to Napoleon’s Legacy
(about 1 month later)
PORTOFERRAIO, Elba — Napoleon spent less than 10 months on Elba, but 200 years later, this island off the coast of Tuscany has turned the defeated French emperor’s brief exile here into a reason to celebrate. PORTOFERRAIO, Elba — Napoleon spent less than 10 months on Elba, but 200 years later, this island off the coast of Tuscany has turned the defeated French emperor’s brief exile here into a reason to celebrate.
It began on May 4 with a colorful re-enactment of Napoleon’s arrival in 1814, accompanied by 400 amateur actors dressed in imperial uniforms and empire-style dresses. Since then, Elba has made itself a microcapital of Napoleon-mania, with a full calendar of period balls, commemorative Masses, conferences, theatrical performances, book readings and walking tours.It began on May 4 with a colorful re-enactment of Napoleon’s arrival in 1814, accompanied by 400 amateur actors dressed in imperial uniforms and empire-style dresses. Since then, Elba has made itself a microcapital of Napoleon-mania, with a full calendar of period balls, commemorative Masses, conferences, theatrical performances, book readings and walking tours.
Posters of Napoleon, always in his three-cornered hat, line the streets, alongside the Elban flag with three golden bees on a red stripe, which he designed himself. Shop windows showcase the latest in Napoleonic souvenirs, and a website keeps track of events that will culminate with the re-enactment of his surprise departure on Feb. 26, 1815, when he headed back to France, and his ultimate defeat at Waterloo on June 18.Posters of Napoleon, always in his three-cornered hat, line the streets, alongside the Elban flag with three golden bees on a red stripe, which he designed himself. Shop windows showcase the latest in Napoleonic souvenirs, and a website keeps track of events that will culminate with the re-enactment of his surprise departure on Feb. 26, 1815, when he headed back to France, and his ultimate defeat at Waterloo on June 18.
In a year when Europe is solemnly marking the centennial of the start of World War I in 1914, the cheerful commemoration of Napoleon’s exile here 100 years earlier, forced on him by his Russian, Austrian and English enemies, makes for a curious coincidence.In a year when Europe is solemnly marking the centennial of the start of World War I in 1914, the cheerful commemoration of Napoleon’s exile here 100 years earlier, forced on him by his Russian, Austrian and English enemies, makes for a curious coincidence.
After all, Napoleon remains an ambiguous figure — a man of enormous charisma and administrative talent who led his armies across the Continent under an imperial banner, setting up kingdoms for his family and expropriating artworks along the way, leaving behind millions of dead soldiers and civilians.After all, Napoleon remains an ambiguous figure — a man of enormous charisma and administrative talent who led his armies across the Continent under an imperial banner, setting up kingdoms for his family and expropriating artworks along the way, leaving behind millions of dead soldiers and civilians.
Yet here on Elba, Napoleon is remembered as a positive figure, who declared upon his arrival that he would be a “good father” to his newfound people, all 13,700 of them.Yet here on Elba, Napoleon is remembered as a positive figure, who declared upon his arrival that he would be a “good father” to his newfound people, all 13,700 of them.
Within days, he turned the full force of his formidable energy and abilities on his small kingdom/prison, building roads, introducing latrines and irrigation systems, planting new crops, reorganizing the hospital and the iron mines, and (to less popular acclaim) imposing new taxes. He opened a theater and brought — along with his mother, Letizia; a sister, Pauline; and for a brief romantic interlude, his Polish mistress Maria Walewska — a sense of style and worldliness that was eventually to put Elba on the map.Within days, he turned the full force of his formidable energy and abilities on his small kingdom/prison, building roads, introducing latrines and irrigation systems, planting new crops, reorganizing the hospital and the iron mines, and (to less popular acclaim) imposing new taxes. He opened a theater and brought — along with his mother, Letizia; a sister, Pauline; and for a brief romantic interlude, his Polish mistress Maria Walewska — a sense of style and worldliness that was eventually to put Elba on the map.
Without Napoleon, the famous palindrome “Able was I ere I saw Elba” wouldn’t exist, let alone make any sense.Without Napoleon, the famous palindrome “Able was I ere I saw Elba” wouldn’t exist, let alone make any sense.
Perhaps Napoleon’s greatest success was in pulling Elba together under a single administration: His flag was the island’s first. As Gloria Peria, the island’s chief archivist, told a French newspaper: “After he left, Elba entered the modern world.”Perhaps Napoleon’s greatest success was in pulling Elba together under a single administration: His flag was the island’s first. As Gloria Peria, the island’s chief archivist, told a French newspaper: “After he left, Elba entered the modern world.”
Despite lingering local affections, Napoleon’s image still needed work here. At the main bookstore, on a table piled high with books on recipes from Napoleon’s kitchens, Napoleon’s gardener, Napoleon and music, not to mention Napoleon’s military campaigns, there are several books by local writers, including “My Emperor” by Rita Poggioli, a Portoferraio schoolteacher who tells a fictional first-person account of a young Elban boy’s encounters with the august but personable Frenchman.Despite lingering local affections, Napoleon’s image still needed work here. At the main bookstore, on a table piled high with books on recipes from Napoleon’s kitchens, Napoleon’s gardener, Napoleon and music, not to mention Napoleon’s military campaigns, there are several books by local writers, including “My Emperor” by Rita Poggioli, a Portoferraio schoolteacher who tells a fictional first-person account of a young Elban boy’s encounters with the august but personable Frenchman.
“In school, we were given a rather unattractive picture of Napoleon, all that sacking and pillaging, particularly in Italy,” said Anna Diversi, one of the bookstore’s managers. “This has been a way to look at him in another light.”“In school, we were given a rather unattractive picture of Napoleon, all that sacking and pillaging, particularly in Italy,” said Anna Diversi, one of the bookstore’s managers. “This has been a way to look at him in another light.”
Like other parts of Italy, Elba in recent years has suffered a dip in tourism, as the economic crisis here and elsewhere in Europe took its toll. After hitting a low point in 2012, Elba recovered slightly last year with 2.7 million overnight stays, still a far cry from the historic high of 3.2 million in 2001, according to official statistics.Like other parts of Italy, Elba in recent years has suffered a dip in tourism, as the economic crisis here and elsewhere in Europe took its toll. After hitting a low point in 2012, Elba recovered slightly last year with 2.7 million overnight stays, still a far cry from the historic high of 3.2 million in 2001, according to official statistics.
The May 4 extravaganza attracted large crowds, and since then there has been a steady trickle of visitors to the two main Napoleon museums — a “palazzina” in town, and a villa a few miles away that the hyperactive emperor-in-exile built for himself as a country retreat.The May 4 extravaganza attracted large crowds, and since then there has been a steady trickle of visitors to the two main Napoleon museums — a “palazzina” in town, and a villa a few miles away that the hyperactive emperor-in-exile built for himself as a country retreat.
Elbans say the celebrations have succeeded in pulling together the island’s different communities — each one with its own Napoleon story to tell — uniting them in the same way the emperor’s flag did. “A lot of people became involved, which has given a boost to our spirits, which have been kind of low here on Elba,” Ms. Diversi said.Elbans say the celebrations have succeeded in pulling together the island’s different communities — each one with its own Napoleon story to tell — uniting them in the same way the emperor’s flag did. “A lot of people became involved, which has given a boost to our spirits, which have been kind of low here on Elba,” Ms. Diversi said.