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World Cup Revelry Overwhelms Beloved Neighborhood in São Paulo World Cup Revelry Overwhelms Beloved Neighborhood in São Paulo
(about 1 hour later)
SÃO PAULO, Brazil — The World Cup has brought hordes of first-time visitors to Vila Madalena, a hilly, low-slung neighborhood of winding roads, countless bars and world-renowned street art in the middle of Brazil’s biggest, most vertical city. Revelers described the scene on game days along the district’s main drag as “Carnival in Salvador,” as packed, wild and carnal as Brazil’s most famous street bacchanal in Salvador, 900 miles to the northeast. SÃO PAULO, Brazil — The World Cup has brought hordes of first-time visitors to Vila Madalena, a hilly, low-slung neighborhood of winding roads, countless bars and world-renowned street art in the middle of Brazil’s biggest, most vertical city. Revelers described the scene on game days along the district’s main drag as Carnival in Salvador: in other words, as packed, wild and carnal as Brazil’s rowdiest street bacchanal, 900 miles to the northeast.
Most neighborhood residents, however, have not joined in the celebration.Most neighborhood residents, however, have not joined in the celebration.
“It’s humiliating for those of us who live here,” said Betinho Oliveira, who lives above his fly-fishing shop, Betinho Fishing & Adventures. “I couldn’t even get into my house because of all the people out front, urinating on my door, kicking my bamboo gate, throwing out bottles.”“It’s humiliating for those of us who live here,” said Betinho Oliveira, who lives above his fly-fishing shop, Betinho Fishing & Adventures. “I couldn’t even get into my house because of all the people out front, urinating on my door, kicking my bamboo gate, throwing out bottles.”
The mass gatherings here, often outdrawing the official fanfest downtown, have heated long-simmering debates about a historical neighborhood long known as a Bohemian redoubt where tension has brewed over the somewhat paradoxical trends of gentrification and a more socioeconomically diverse party scene. Some locals fear the attention from the World Cup could push the neighborhood over the brink. The mass gatherings here, often outdrawing the official fanfest downtown, have heated long-simmering debates about a historical neighborhood long known as a bohemian redoubt where tension has brewed over the somewhat paradoxical trends of gentrification and a more socioeconomically diverse party scene. Some locals fear the attention from the World Cup could push the neighborhood over the brink.
Tom Green, a founding member of the residents’ organization SOSsego Vila Madalena, fears that the forces of development, including Ambev, the huge international beer brewing company that works closely with local bars, could have their way with the place.Tom Green, a founding member of the residents’ organization SOSsego Vila Madalena, fears that the forces of development, including Ambev, the huge international beer brewing company that works closely with local bars, could have their way with the place.
“We’ve got Ambev on one side, politicians on the other, and the construction companies just want to knock everything down and put up high-rises,” he said. “We’re in the middle of it and it’s not very pleasant.”“We’ve got Ambev on one side, politicians on the other, and the construction companies just want to knock everything down and put up high-rises,” he said. “We’re in the middle of it and it’s not very pleasant.”
Since the opening game between Brazil and Croatia one month ago Saturday, word has spread among visitors and residents alike. The day of the Brazil-Chile game, 28-year-old Adrian Palacios of San Francisco was escorted here by a Brazilian friend. Luiz Henrique, a 19-year-old from the nearby city of Carapicuíba, was invited by work colleagues. Chika Duru, 33, from Washington, and his brother Jeremi, 41, heard from their taxi driver. And Jeroen Peters, a 32 year-old Dutchman who lives nearby, led a troop of orange-clad compatriots from a bar in another neighborhood.Since the opening game between Brazil and Croatia one month ago Saturday, word has spread among visitors and residents alike. The day of the Brazil-Chile game, 28-year-old Adrian Palacios of San Francisco was escorted here by a Brazilian friend. Luiz Henrique, a 19-year-old from the nearby city of Carapicuíba, was invited by work colleagues. Chika Duru, 33, from Washington, and his brother Jeremi, 41, heard from their taxi driver. And Jeroen Peters, a 32 year-old Dutchman who lives nearby, led a troop of orange-clad compatriots from a bar in another neighborhood.
“This is the place to go,” he said.“This is the place to go,” he said.
Vila Madalena has also become place to cheer, taunt, drink, dance, flirt, urinate and generally make mayhem. To the delight of party-loving Brazilians and fun-seeking visitors, on game days its streets have become the impromptu site of the city’s most raucous World Cup party.Vila Madalena has also become place to cheer, taunt, drink, dance, flirt, urinate and generally make mayhem. To the delight of party-loving Brazilians and fun-seeking visitors, on game days its streets have become the impromptu site of the city’s most raucous World Cup party.
When Brazil played, crowds swelled to as many as 70,000, according to official estimates.When Brazil played, crowds swelled to as many as 70,000, according to official estimates.
One of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods, Vila Madalena is often referred to simply as the “Vila,” despite more than 150 other Vila something-or-others around São Paulo. Settled largely by Portuguese immigrants who built small houses along its dirt roads in the 1920s and ’30s, the Vila gained a hippie reputation in the ’70s, when, under Brazil’s military dictatorship, the government shut down housing at the University of São Paulo and cheap rents attracted students to the neighborhood.One of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods, Vila Madalena is often referred to simply as the “Vila,” despite more than 150 other Vila something-or-others around São Paulo. Settled largely by Portuguese immigrants who built small houses along its dirt roads in the 1920s and ’30s, the Vila gained a hippie reputation in the ’70s, when, under Brazil’s military dictatorship, the government shut down housing at the University of São Paulo and cheap rents attracted students to the neighborhood.
In the ’90s, the area’s vibrant arts scene began attracting crowds and bars proliferated. Gentrification began as wealthier professionals (and yoga studios and artisanal cheese shops) moved in and poorer residents (and small furniture and garment makers) were forced out. Now, there’s even a Le Pain Quotidien cafe with $5 chocolate chip cookies. In the ’90s, the area’s vibrant arts scene began attracting crowds, and bars proliferated. Gentrification began as wealthier professionals (and yoga studios and artisanal cheese shops) moved in and poorer residents (and small furniture and garment makers) were forced out. Now, there’s even a Pain Quotidien cafe with $5 chocolate chip cookies.
But the Vila still brims with artistic and intellectual vigor, attracting energetic start-ups by day and crowds of 30-somethings at night to one of the few parts of this gargantuan city that maintains a semblance of small-town life.But the Vila still brims with artistic and intellectual vigor, attracting energetic start-ups by day and crowds of 30-somethings at night to one of the few parts of this gargantuan city that maintains a semblance of small-town life.
“São Paulo is a hostile city, a city where people don’t walk in the street, where the sidewalks are full of holes, where you can be mugged,” said Gilberto Dimenstein, a writer, educator and community activist. “Vila Madalena is, symbolically, the city’s meeting place. There are all kinds of music, all kinds of people — the street is no longer a place of fear but a place of encounter.”“São Paulo is a hostile city, a city where people don’t walk in the street, where the sidewalks are full of holes, where you can be mugged,” said Gilberto Dimenstein, a writer, educator and community activist. “Vila Madalena is, symbolically, the city’s meeting place. There are all kinds of music, all kinds of people — the street is no longer a place of fear but a place of encounter.”
The typical international visitor to Brazil — young and educated with money to spend — matches the profile of the typical Vila Madalena crowd, and many tourists have been staying in the neighborhood’s new hostels. A wider socioeconomic cross-section of São Paulo became familiar with the neighborhood during a heavily promoted series of Carnival celebrations earlier this year that drew large crowds. “It was madness,” said Cássio Calazans, leader of Savima, a local residents’ organization. “Since then, when a single musical note drops around here — even in C minor — people show up.” The typical international visitor to Brazil — young and educated with money to spend — matches the profile of the typical Vila Madalena crowd, and many tourists have been staying in the neighborhood’s new hostels. A wider socioeconomic cross-section of São Paulo became familiar with the neighborhood during a heavily promoted series of Carnival celebrations this year that drew large crowds. “It was madness,” said Cássio Calazans, leader of Savima, a local residents’ organization. “Since then, when a single musical note drops around here — even in C minor — people show up.”
But the sheer size of the World Cup crowds has surprised and concerned many, including the city government, whose official guide for World Cup visitors contains one paltry page on the neighborhood. “Before Brazil’s first game, we didn’t realize how big the crowds would be” said Nádia Campeão, the city’s vice mayor. “The next day, we prepared an intervention.” But the sheer size of the World Cup crowds has surprised and concerned many, including the city government, whose official guide for World Cup visitors contains one paltry page on the neighborhood. “Before Brazil’s first game, we didn’t realize how big the crowds would be,” said Nádia Campeão, the city’s vice mayor. “The next day, we prepared an intervention.”
Streets were closed to traffic, dozens of portable toilets were installed, extra police were assigned and cleaning crews swept through the neighborhood starting at 2 a.m. After an Argentina victory, the police deployed a stun grenade to clear lingering partyers so the cleaners could get to work. For Tuesday’s Brazil-Germany semifinal, the state military police increased its presence to 1,200 officers as the game began. Streets were closed to traffic, dozens of portable toilets were installed, extra police officers were assigned and cleaning crews swept through the neighborhood starting at 2 a.m. After an Argentina victory, the police deployed a stun grenade to clear lingering partyers so the cleaners could get to work. For Tuesday’s Brazil-Germany semifinal, the state military police increased its presence to 1,200 officers as the game began.
They proved unnecessary. Street partyers paid less attention to the illegal vendors selling tequila shots for $2 a pop than they did to television screens. Five German goals in quick succession, it turned out, can subdue even the Vila Madalena crowd. They proved unnecessary. Street revelers paid less attention to the illegal vendors selling tequila shots for $2 a pop than they did to television screens. Five German goals in quick succession, it turned out, can subdue even the Vila Madalena crowd.
His cheeks tear-stained and head bowed, Dalmo Junior, 31, collapsed to the asphalt middle of Aspicuelta street as Brazil fell behind. “I love my mother, my daughter and soccer,” said Dalmo Junior, 31, though not necessarily in that order. “I escaped here from my house today just to watch the game.” His cheeks tear-stained and head bowed, Dalmo Junior, 31, collapsed to the asphalt middle of Aspicuelta Street as Brazil fell behind. “I love my mother, my daughter and soccer,” he said, though not necessarily in that order. “I escaped here from my house today just to watch the game.”
On days Brazil has not played, the crowds were somewhat thinner, but no more sober. On one weekend, foreign visitors arrived draped in their countries’ colors — orange for the Netherlands, red and green for Mexico and sky blue for Argentina. In a phenomenon that has fascinated the Brazilian media, some local men traded Brazil’s canary yellow jerseys for other team’s shirts to try to impress women. On days Brazil has not played, the crowds were somewhat thinner, but no more sober. On one weekend, foreign visitors arrived draped in their countries’ colors — orange for the Netherlands, red and green for Mexico and sky blue for Argentina. In a phenomenon that has fascinated the Brazilian news media, some local men traded Brazil’s canary yellow jerseys for other teams’ shirts to try to impress women.
“It’s easy to tell they’re not Dutch,” said one Brazilian woman, referring to the men wearing orange who were hitting on her after a recent game. “They’re mixing up Spanish with English.”“It’s easy to tell they’re not Dutch,” said one Brazilian woman, referring to the men wearing orange who were hitting on her after a recent game. “They’re mixing up Spanish with English.”
But after Sunday’s game, the big crowds will disappear, leaving local stakeholders to debate the future.But after Sunday’s game, the big crowds will disappear, leaving local stakeholders to debate the future.
The politics are thorny. Powerful restaurant and bar owners complained of illegal vendors undercutting their business but are hopeful the attention will attract a steady flow of new customers.The politics are thorny. Powerful restaurant and bar owners complained of illegal vendors undercutting their business but are hopeful the attention will attract a steady flow of new customers.
City officials see the neighborhood’s Bohemian reputation as a way to lure international travelers away from Rio de Janeiro, and admit change is inevitable. City officials see the neighborhood’s bohemian reputation as a way to lure international travelers away from Rio de Janeiro, and admit change is inevitable.
Longtime residents fret about traditional homes being replaced by apartment buildings and local shops ceding further ground to international chains. Many fear the local media’s ravenous coverage of World Cup parties will draw even rowdier crowds in the future. Longtime residents fret about traditional homes being replaced by apartment buildings and local shops ceding further ground to international chains. Many fear the local news media’s ravenous coverage of World Cup parties will draw even rowdier crowds in the future.
Mr. Dimenstein, the community activist, has a more cautiously optimistic view. “The Vila, which was an upscale, more closed, more alternative place, has become a place of joy,” he said. “It’s positive, but we need to turn it into an asset.” Mr. Dimenstein, the community activist, had a more cautiously optimistic view. “The Vila, which was an upscale, more closed, more alternative place, has become a place of joy,” he said. “It’s positive, but we need to turn it into an asset.”