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Iran gripped by World Cup fever, just watching from home Iran gripped by World Cup fever, just watching from home
(2 months later)
To the untrained eye, Tehran looks devoid of World Cup excitement: no banners, no flags and no inviting advertisements in restaurants and cafes. As "Team Melli," the Iranian national team, makes its historic fourth World Cup appearance, public signs of football enthusiasm are difficult to come by. Yet while things look quiet on the street level, the buzz of private conversations, the lines in supermarkets and the dissemination of popular jokes suggests a different reality. The symptoms are subtle, but behind closed doors, Iran is at the height of World Cup fever.To the untrained eye, Tehran looks devoid of World Cup excitement: no banners, no flags and no inviting advertisements in restaurants and cafes. As "Team Melli," the Iranian national team, makes its historic fourth World Cup appearance, public signs of football enthusiasm are difficult to come by. Yet while things look quiet on the street level, the buzz of private conversations, the lines in supermarkets and the dissemination of popular jokes suggests a different reality. The symptoms are subtle, but behind closed doors, Iran is at the height of World Cup fever.
When passengers from all walks of life squeeze into one of Tehran's shared taxis, they often use the uncomfortable yet intimate space to discuss the pressing issue of the day, from politics and electricity prices to the weather. These days, the number one topic is football. The streets are emptier during major matches. Inside shops, the TV sets are tuned in to Channel 3, and customer service is lax as proprietors fixate on the game. Dozens of World Cup jokes circulate on social networking sites, another subtle gauge of public interest. “The Team Melli’s arrangement for the match against Argentina is 11-0-5," one popular joke goes. "All 11 players defend and the five holy saints play forward." When passengers from all walks of life squeeze into one of Tehran's shared taxis, they often use the uncomfortable yet intimate space to discuss the pressing issue of the day, from politics and electricity prices to the weather. These days, the number one topic is football. The streets are emptier during major matches. Inside shops, the TV sets are tuned in to Channel 3, and customer service is lax as proprietors fixate on the game. Dozens of World Cup jokes circulate on social networking sites, another subtle gauge of public interest. “The Team Melli’s arrangement for the match against Argentina is 11-0-5," one popular joke goes. "All 11 players defend and the five holy saints play forward."
Aside from presidential elections, football has a way of drawing Iranians into the streets. When Team Melli qualified for the World Cup in 1998, tens of thousands poured into city squares to celebrate. Similar incidents were repeated in subsequent World Cup-related events. Last year, when Iran defeated South Korea to qualify for the World Cup, the event attracted more crowds than centrist candidate Hassan Rouhani's victory in the presidential election days earlier. In the past, football-loving masses have been known to turn their attention to political issues. When Iran qualified for the World Cup in 2005, a group jubilant football fans in Esfahan used the occasion to express their opposition to former President Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani, a candidate in that election. The group tore down the campaign posters and broke the windows of Rafsanjani's campaign headquarters.Aside from presidential elections, football has a way of drawing Iranians into the streets. When Team Melli qualified for the World Cup in 1998, tens of thousands poured into city squares to celebrate. Similar incidents were repeated in subsequent World Cup-related events. Last year, when Iran defeated South Korea to qualify for the World Cup, the event attracted more crowds than centrist candidate Hassan Rouhani's victory in the presidential election days earlier. In the past, football-loving masses have been known to turn their attention to political issues. When Iran qualified for the World Cup in 2005, a group jubilant football fans in Esfahan used the occasion to express their opposition to former President Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani, a candidate in that election. The group tore down the campaign posters and broke the windows of Rafsanjani's campaign headquarters.
The emotional factor in football is worrying for the authorities, who make meticulous preparations to suppress any chance for public gatherings. Outside stadiums, watching football in large groups is forbidden. This allows the regime to limit uncontrolled displays of people power, as well as prevent the public mingling of men and women. The government has also banned cafes and restaurants from showing the game. Cinemas are prohibited from holding screenings for mixed-gender audiences, leading many cinema owners to boycott he World Cup altogether.The emotional factor in football is worrying for the authorities, who make meticulous preparations to suppress any chance for public gatherings. Outside stadiums, watching football in large groups is forbidden. This allows the regime to limit uncontrolled displays of people power, as well as prevent the public mingling of men and women. The government has also banned cafes and restaurants from showing the game. Cinemas are prohibited from holding screenings for mixed-gender audiences, leading many cinema owners to boycott he World Cup altogether.
Admittedly, the mood is not as jubilant as it was when Iran qualified for the 1998 World Cup. The novelty has worn off and life under sanctions has made many Iranians too focused on making ends meet to give football their undivided attention. The sport itself has also suffered economic setbacks, and several corruption scandals have tarnished its reputation. According to local media, wealthy businessmen like the now-jailed Babak Zanjani have reportedly used football clubs as means for tax evasion and money laundering. Clubs operated by the government or state-affiliated companies have been grossly mismanaged, and salaried players in the Iranian premier league reportedly receive a disproportionate amount of taxpayers' money. A culture of game-rigging and bribery prevails among referees, an additional financial strain for struggling teams.Admittedly, the mood is not as jubilant as it was when Iran qualified for the 1998 World Cup. The novelty has worn off and life under sanctions has made many Iranians too focused on making ends meet to give football their undivided attention. The sport itself has also suffered economic setbacks, and several corruption scandals have tarnished its reputation. According to local media, wealthy businessmen like the now-jailed Babak Zanjani have reportedly used football clubs as means for tax evasion and money laundering. Clubs operated by the government or state-affiliated companies have been grossly mismanaged, and salaried players in the Iranian premier league reportedly receive a disproportionate amount of taxpayers' money. A culture of game-rigging and bribery prevails among referees, an additional financial strain for struggling teams.
Still, the disheartening effects of these scandals have been outweighed by the draws of a beloved national pastime. Like many other aspects of Iranian life, football has been driven into the private sphere. While seemingly uninterested on the outside, Iranians sit at home glued to their TVs, using every opportunity to watch World Cup games. Friends and families gather in small groups; tea or hard liquor, both homemade and imported, is served in place of beer.Still, the disheartening effects of these scandals have been outweighed by the draws of a beloved national pastime. Like many other aspects of Iranian life, football has been driven into the private sphere. While seemingly uninterested on the outside, Iranians sit at home glued to their TVs, using every opportunity to watch World Cup games. Friends and families gather in small groups; tea or hard liquor, both homemade and imported, is served in place of beer.
Though Iran is generally seen as an underdog in the World Cup, many fans point out that Team Melli has a history of surprise wins, as when they clinched first place in their Asia qualifying group by defeating South Korea last year. In the coming days, the difference between winning or losing will have implications far beyond the realm of sports. In their international isolation, Iranians see the World Cup as a lone outlet for national pride. The possibility of the aberoorizi, or dishonor, of a crushing defeat is a serious source of anxiety. The chance of winning, on the other hand, creates a sense of elation that Iranians experience collectively, even if they must stay inside their homes to watch the games.Though Iran is generally seen as an underdog in the World Cup, many fans point out that Team Melli has a history of surprise wins, as when they clinched first place in their Asia qualifying group by defeating South Korea last year. In the coming days, the difference between winning or losing will have implications far beyond the realm of sports. In their international isolation, Iranians see the World Cup as a lone outlet for national pride. The possibility of the aberoorizi, or dishonor, of a crushing defeat is a serious source of anxiety. The chance of winning, on the other hand, creates a sense of elation that Iranians experience collectively, even if they must stay inside their homes to watch the games.