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D-Day’s Wheels Roll Again | D-Day’s Wheels Roll Again |
(3 months later) | |
ÉTRÉHAM, FRANCE — Like many families spending part of this summer on the road, Kevin and Brenda Goodwin of Felixstowe, England, are taking their holiday in a big R.V. with two beds, a kitchen, a bathroom with a shower and a pair of bicycles lashed to the front. | |
The difference is that the Goodwins travel not in a comforts-of-home Winnebago but in a converted Bedford QL cargo truck, built 69 years ago for the British army fighting in World War II. Even the bicycles are wartime-vintage. | The difference is that the Goodwins travel not in a comforts-of-home Winnebago but in a converted Bedford QL cargo truck, built 69 years ago for the British army fighting in World War II. Even the bicycles are wartime-vintage. |
“It helps to be a dwarf,” said the average-stature Mr. Goodwin, standing in the cramped living space where soldiers and war matériel once traveled into battle. | “It helps to be a dwarf,” said the average-stature Mr. Goodwin, standing in the cramped living space where soldiers and war matériel once traveled into battle. |
The Goodwins joined thousands of military vehicle enthusiasts converging here in recent days on the foggy, windswept beaches of Normandy, France. This is where, on June 6, 1944, Allied forces — mainly those of Britain, Canada, France and the United States — staged the largest amphibious assault in the history of modern warfare. D-Day, or Jour-J as it’s known in France, opened the final bloody chapter for the Western Allies in the defeat of Hitler’s Third Reich. | The Goodwins joined thousands of military vehicle enthusiasts converging here in recent days on the foggy, windswept beaches of Normandy, France. This is where, on June 6, 1944, Allied forces — mainly those of Britain, Canada, France and the United States — staged the largest amphibious assault in the history of modern warfare. D-Day, or Jour-J as it’s known in France, opened the final bloody chapter for the Western Allies in the defeat of Hitler’s Third Reich. |
Involved in the initial assault were 156,000 troops, about 5,000 ships and — most appealing to military vehicle enthusiasts — around 50,000 tanks, trucks, jeeps, halftracks, armored cars, bulldozers, motorcycles and other assorted machines. | Involved in the initial assault were 156,000 troops, about 5,000 ships and — most appealing to military vehicle enthusiasts — around 50,000 tanks, trucks, jeeps, halftracks, armored cars, bulldozers, motorcycles and other assorted machines. |
At least 5,000 of these combat vehicles returned to Normandy last week to commemorate the battle’s 70th anniversary, a huge celebration hosted by the French government and scheduled for visits by world leaders, including President Obama. | At least 5,000 of these combat vehicles returned to Normandy last week to commemorate the battle’s 70th anniversary, a huge celebration hosted by the French government and scheduled for visits by world leaders, including President Obama. |
Military vehicle clubs from all over Europe converged on the 75-mile-wide invasion area, snarling traffic on the region’s narrow lanes with their long olive-drab columns in scenes that evoked documentary film from the 1940s. Some made much longer trips: A hardy group from Australia and New Zealand shipped a collection of restored war vehicles to Sicily, then spent five weeks making a 3,000-mile tour to Normandy, including a run over the 8,200-foot Grossglockner Pass in the Austrian Alps. | Military vehicle clubs from all over Europe converged on the 75-mile-wide invasion area, snarling traffic on the region’s narrow lanes with their long olive-drab columns in scenes that evoked documentary film from the 1940s. Some made much longer trips: A hardy group from Australia and New Zealand shipped a collection of restored war vehicles to Sicily, then spent five weeks making a 3,000-mile tour to Normandy, including a run over the 8,200-foot Grossglockner Pass in the Austrian Alps. |
I was among those jamming the French roads, a repeat participant after attending the 65th D-Day anniversary in a wartime jeep. That exposure to Normandy’s damp, chilly weather led to my wife’s insistence that her attendance at the 70th would depend on finding a warmer vehicle. | I was among those jamming the French roads, a repeat participant after attending the 65th D-Day anniversary in a wartime jeep. That exposure to Normandy’s damp, chilly weather led to my wife’s insistence that her attendance at the 70th would depend on finding a warmer vehicle. |
Dodge supplied the United States Army with 3/4-ton trucks of various shapes and sizes, but only the WC54 ambulance had both a heater and a double-wall cab (insulated with paper). Compared with a jeep, it also offered the luxury of doors and roll-up windows. A 230-cubic-inch 6-cylinder engine of around 85 horsepower and a 4-speed transmission combine for a top speed of just 55 m.p.h., though it is much happier at 40 m.p.h. or slower. | Dodge supplied the United States Army with 3/4-ton trucks of various shapes and sizes, but only the WC54 ambulance had both a heater and a double-wall cab (insulated with paper). Compared with a jeep, it also offered the luxury of doors and roll-up windows. A 230-cubic-inch 6-cylinder engine of around 85 horsepower and a 4-speed transmission combine for a top speed of just 55 m.p.h., though it is much happier at 40 m.p.h. or slower. |
A WC54 turned up in Cambridge, England, where the seller was persuaded to part with it for about $11,000 after being told that it would return to the United States when the anniversary gathering dispersed. After seven decades overseas, including a 30-year stint in the postwar Greek army, it was time finally time for the old soldier to come home. | A WC54 turned up in Cambridge, England, where the seller was persuaded to part with it for about $11,000 after being told that it would return to the United States when the anniversary gathering dispersed. After seven decades overseas, including a 30-year stint in the postwar Greek army, it was time finally time for the old soldier to come home. |
The human participants at D-Day tributes are, predictably, less durable. | The human participants at D-Day tributes are, predictably, less durable. |
“This is the last year there will be serious veteran involvement,” said Preston Isaac of North Devon, England, who helped lead a group of more than 130 vehicles from the 5,000-member Military Vehicle Trust, a British collector club. With most D-Day veterans in their 80s or 90s by now, attendance by actual participants of the invasion at these events are increasingly rare. The few hundred who came for the 70th were treated like rock stars by camera-clicking crowds. | “This is the last year there will be serious veteran involvement,” said Preston Isaac of North Devon, England, who helped lead a group of more than 130 vehicles from the 5,000-member Military Vehicle Trust, a British collector club. With most D-Day veterans in their 80s or 90s by now, attendance by actual participants of the invasion at these events are increasingly rare. The few hundred who came for the 70th were treated like rock stars by camera-clicking crowds. |
“After this, I don’t know what’s going to happen,” Mr. Isaac mused about interest in the event. “But it’s not dropping off like you’d think.” | “After this, I don’t know what’s going to happen,” Mr. Isaac mused about interest in the event. “But it’s not dropping off like you’d think.” |
The demand for vintage military vehicles, especially those from World War II, has jumped in recent years, mirroring the trend in classic cars. The legend of the $500 jeep in a crate is just that; pristine wartime jeeps, of which Willys-Overland and Ford produced some 645,000, sell for $15,000-$20,000 on specialist websites like England’s popular Milweb.net. A restored Sherman tank can command more than $300,000. | The demand for vintage military vehicles, especially those from World War II, has jumped in recent years, mirroring the trend in classic cars. The legend of the $500 jeep in a crate is just that; pristine wartime jeeps, of which Willys-Overland and Ford produced some 645,000, sell for $15,000-$20,000 on specialist websites like England’s popular Milweb.net. A restored Sherman tank can command more than $300,000. |
“A lot of people look at it as an investment,” said Rodney Rushton, a Briton who has been coming to Normandy since 1974 and this year drove a 1942 Chevrolet G506 heavy truck to the commemoration. “The price of classic cars went through the roof years ago, and jeeps were always the poor cousin. Now the boot is on the other foot.” | “A lot of people look at it as an investment,” said Rodney Rushton, a Briton who has been coming to Normandy since 1974 and this year drove a 1942 Chevrolet G506 heavy truck to the commemoration. “The price of classic cars went through the roof years ago, and jeeps were always the poor cousin. Now the boot is on the other foot.” |
With a cruising speed of around 40 m.p.h. and three small seats wedged into a body that is shorter and narrower than the original Mazda Miata, a war-era jeep is hardly what most car collectors would consider exotic or luxurious. Larger military vehicles tend to be even slower, and they greedily drink Europe’s $9-a-gallon gasoline. Parts can be difficult to find for obscure vehicles, and they require lots of storage space on a Continent known for its small houses crammed into tightly packed cities. | With a cruising speed of around 40 m.p.h. and three small seats wedged into a body that is shorter and narrower than the original Mazda Miata, a war-era jeep is hardly what most car collectors would consider exotic or luxurious. Larger military vehicles tend to be even slower, and they greedily drink Europe’s $9-a-gallon gasoline. Parts can be difficult to find for obscure vehicles, and they require lots of storage space on a Continent known for its small houses crammed into tightly packed cities. |
Mr. Isaacs of the vehicle trust said that the buyers of these vehicles fell into three categories: those who wanted the vehicles their fathers or grandfathers drove in the war; those who just had a fondness for odd machines, especially some of the obscure vehicles made for the British army, which contracted for vehicles from more than 600 companies during World War II; and those, he said, who “want to look like John Wayne with their leg hanging out of the jeep and chewing a cigar.” | Mr. Isaacs of the vehicle trust said that the buyers of these vehicles fell into three categories: those who wanted the vehicles their fathers or grandfathers drove in the war; those who just had a fondness for odd machines, especially some of the obscure vehicles made for the British army, which contracted for vehicles from more than 600 companies during World War II; and those, he said, who “want to look like John Wayne with their leg hanging out of the jeep and chewing a cigar.” |
Another factor driving up prices is the increasing number of events for military vehicles. | Another factor driving up prices is the increasing number of events for military vehicles. |
“There are more places to take your vehicle than there are weekends in the year,” said Mr. Isaacs, who started the planning for his group’s 10-day D-Day tour more than two years ago. In England, nostalgia for the war runs especially deep. | “There are more places to take your vehicle than there are weekends in the year,” said Mr. Isaacs, who started the planning for his group’s 10-day D-Day tour more than two years ago. In England, nostalgia for the war runs especially deep. |
Belgium hosts a very popular event in the spring, called Tanks in Town, to celebrate the liberation of Mons. The biggest event on the calendar is the War and Peace Show in Kent, England; it’s basically Pebble Beach for military vehicles, with top vehicles from all eras. In the center is a performance ring where mock battles are staged, from World War II re-enactments (which are really re-enactments of “Saving Private Ryan” or “Band of Brothers”) to Vietnam and Soviet-era Afghanistan. Any excuse to get tanks out in the ring. | Belgium hosts a very popular event in the spring, called Tanks in Town, to celebrate the liberation of Mons. The biggest event on the calendar is the War and Peace Show in Kent, England; it’s basically Pebble Beach for military vehicles, with top vehicles from all eras. In the center is a performance ring where mock battles are staged, from World War II re-enactments (which are really re-enactments of “Saving Private Ryan” or “Band of Brothers”) to Vietnam and Soviet-era Afghanistan. Any excuse to get tanks out in the ring. |
Kevin Holter and his stepson Jake Davis of Moretonhampstead, in rural southwest England, made their first visit to Normandy last week driving a 31,000-pound Ward LaFrance heavy wrecker. The United States Army used it to rescue disabled tanks long before Mr. Holter paid $14,000 to buy it a couple of years ago. | Kevin Holter and his stepson Jake Davis of Moretonhampstead, in rural southwest England, made their first visit to Normandy last week driving a 31,000-pound Ward LaFrance heavy wrecker. The United States Army used it to rescue disabled tanks long before Mr. Holter paid $14,000 to buy it a couple of years ago. |
“To be truthful, I’m not into guns; I’m a bit of a pacifist, really,” Mr. Holter, who works on heavy equipment for a living, said. “I like the recovery aspect of it. The bigger the machine, the better.” | “To be truthful, I’m not into guns; I’m a bit of a pacifist, really,” Mr. Holter, who works on heavy equipment for a living, said. “I like the recovery aspect of it. The bigger the machine, the better.” |
Driving the 23-foot-long, left-hand-drive behemoth among the small right-hand-drive commuter cubes that dominate British roads isn’t that bad, he said, “as long as you mind your width.” | Driving the 23-foot-long, left-hand-drive behemoth among the small right-hand-drive commuter cubes that dominate British roads isn’t that bad, he said, “as long as you mind your width.” |
The fuel bill? Also not bad, Mr. Holter contends. As with a lot of large military vehicles, including the Goodwin’s Bedford, Mr. Holter’s huge wrecker, originally gasoline-powered, has been updated with a newer Cummins turbodiesel engine, allowing an easy 45-m.p.h. cruising speed at a tolerable 10 to 12 m.p.g. | The fuel bill? Also not bad, Mr. Holter contends. As with a lot of large military vehicles, including the Goodwin’s Bedford, Mr. Holter’s huge wrecker, originally gasoline-powered, has been updated with a newer Cummins turbodiesel engine, allowing an easy 45-m.p.h. cruising speed at a tolerable 10 to 12 m.p.g. |
While World War II primarily ran on gasoline, Europe’s latter-day preference for diesel cars caused problems for one family on the tour. Daryl and Lida Bensinger from Narvon, Pa., along with their sons Derek and Dylan, brought a six-wheel-drive Dodge WC63 cargo truck to Normandy. Things were going well for the family, who run a mail-order parts business for military jeeps, until they inadvertently filled the Detroit-built, gasoline-engine truck with more than $100 worth of diesel. | While World War II primarily ran on gasoline, Europe’s latter-day preference for diesel cars caused problems for one family on the tour. Daryl and Lida Bensinger from Narvon, Pa., along with their sons Derek and Dylan, brought a six-wheel-drive Dodge WC63 cargo truck to Normandy. Things were going well for the family, who run a mail-order parts business for military jeeps, until they inadvertently filled the Detroit-built, gasoline-engine truck with more than $100 worth of diesel. |
It’s an easy mistake; in Europe, diesel pumps are black and gasoline pumps are green, the opposite of general practice in the United States. | It’s an easy mistake; in Europe, diesel pumps are black and gasoline pumps are green, the opposite of general practice in the United States. |
The truck ran about a mile before expiring in a cloud of smoke. Within minutes, another military vehicle was towing them back to their campsite west of the Normandy city of Bayeux, famous for its 11th-century tapestry as well as being one of the first towns in France to be liberated in the Allied invasion. At the camp, where beer and barbecue was being passed around in military tents fringed with camouflage nets, a crowd of fellow enthusiasts had gathered around the Bensingers’ Dodge to lend a hand. | The truck ran about a mile before expiring in a cloud of smoke. Within minutes, another military vehicle was towing them back to their campsite west of the Normandy city of Bayeux, famous for its 11th-century tapestry as well as being one of the first towns in France to be liberated in the Allied invasion. At the camp, where beer and barbecue was being passed around in military tents fringed with camouflage nets, a crowd of fellow enthusiasts had gathered around the Bensingers’ Dodge to lend a hand. |
Said one passer-by: “If they just leave it overnight, the fairies will come and mend it for them. They’re getting bored around here already.” | Said one passer-by: “If they just leave it overnight, the fairies will come and mend it for them. They’re getting bored around here already.” |
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