Pod almighty: Yotam Ottolenghi's recipes for frozen peas

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/09/yotam-ottolenghi-recipes-peas

Version 0 of 1.

Is there a safer bet in the kitchen than that there will be a bag of peas in the freezer? Peas are unlikely to surprise or shock in any way, but they are delightfully reassuring. They will somehow always be there, and always taste as they have and should.

Sure, freshly podded peas have about them a romance that will for ever be out of the frozen peas' league – they have, for example, that inimitable texture when thrown raw into a crunchy spring salad – but for flavour I always go for frozen. Unless, that is, I am sitting incredibly close to the field where the peas have been growing, so I can eat them within hours of their being picked, and before their quality deteriorates and their natural sweetness takes on a starchy character.

Processed just after they've been podded, frozen peas keep their vibrant green colour in a way the tinned variety can only dream of (the heating process before canning destroys the chlorophyll green, giving the peas a dull khaki colour and a less than appetising texture).

As well as being so comforting, peas are incredibly relaxed about whom they sit next to at dinner. Salty ham or seafood, tangy feta or parmesan, creamy yoghurt or eggs, nutty potatoes, sweet fresh mint, peppery watercress or bitter leaves: sweet peas will always bring out the best in their companion. Needing little more than a minute's blanching to cook, followed by a brief drenching in cold water, frozen peas are low-maintenance and offer instant gratification.

Predictable in taste they may be, but they are hugely versatile in use, as good at being mashed, pureed, lightly stewed or blitzed as they are left whole and mixed through a salad or pasta, stirred through a risotto or gently stuffed inside artichoke hearts for braising alongside minced beef and fresh dill.

Chargrilled lamb shoulder chops with marinated feta and peas

Serves four.

1½ tbsp fennel seeds, toasted and roughly crushed1 tbsp dried oregano1 tbsp dried mint2 garlic cloves, crushed1 tsp dried chilli flakes100ml olive oil60ml red-wine vinegarSalt4 lamb shoulder chops, each about 2.5 cm thick (roughly 1kg in total)200g feta, cut widthways into 5mm-wide slices400g podded peas (fresh or frozen), blanched for a minute, refreshed in cold water and drained50g pea shoots (or rocket)½ small red onion, peeled and finely sliced

Put the first six ingredients in a small bowl with three tablespoons of the vinegar and a teaspoon of salt. Put the chops in a large bowl and spoon over a third of this marinade and an extra half-teaspoon of salt. Use your hands to rub the marinade into the meat, then set it aside in the fridge for at least an hour.

Put the slices of feta in a separate bowl, spoon over the remaining marinade and, again, place in the fridge for at least an hour

Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Put a ridged griddle pan on a high heat (remember to ventilate your kitchen well: there will be a lot of smoke). When the pan is very hot, put in the chops and chargrill for four minutes, turning them once halfway through, until both sides have dark char marks. Transfer to a medium oven tray and roast for five to seven minutes (the timing will depend on the thickness of the chops), until just cooked. Remove and put in a warm place to rest for a couple of minutes.

Add the peas, pea shoots, onion and remaining vinegar to the marinated feta. Mix gently to combine and divide between the plates. Place a lamb chop alongside and serve at once.

Peas with sorrel and mustard

It's that time of the year again, when sorrel is raved about and lamented in equal measure. Raved about for its wow factor – this sour leaf will spruce up even the most frugal of meals – before its champions bemoan the fact that it's not more widely available. Some supermarkets do stock it, but you're more likely to find it at a good grocer or farmers' market, or have to go foraging for some yourself.

The taste of sorrel is very distinct but, if you can't get hold of any, tender young rocket or mustard leaves, plus a squeeze of lemon, make a good substitute. With some plain rice or bread, this is a light meal in itself; or serve as a side dish to some simply grilled meat or fish. Serves four as a side dish.

300g fresh or frozen garden peas, defrosted2 tsp Dijon mustard1½ tsp English mustard powder¾ tsp caster sugarSalt2 tbsp olive oil180g spring onions, trimmed and cut on an angle into 1cm thick pieces2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced1 tbsp black mustard seeds, toasted75g Greek yoghurt100g sorrel, leaves and stalks, roughly shredded

Bring a medium pan of water to a boil, add the peas, blanch for just 30 seconds and drain. Refresh under cold running water and set aside.

Put both mustards in a small bowl with the sugar, three tablespoons of water and half a teaspoon of salt. Mix to a smooth paste and set aside.

Put a large sauté pan on a medium-high heat and add the oil. Once hot, add the spring onions and garlic, and fry for eight minutes, stirring frequently, until golden-brown. Turn the heat to low and add the mustard sauce, peas, two teaspoons of mustard seeds and the yoghurt. Stir for a minute until everything is combined and the yoghurt is warmed through, then remove from the heat, stir through the sorrel and serve at once with the remaining mustard seeds sprinkled on top.

Hot radish tart

Just leave out the anchovies if you want the tart to be vegetarian, in which case you'll need to increase the salt. The pea puree on its own works well as a dip. If you have radishes with their stems and leaves intact, dunk them as they are in this peppery treat. Serves six.

200g all-butter puff pastryPlain flour, for dusting50g clarified butter2 whole sprigs thyme1 dried red chilli600g radishes, topped and tailed1 tbsp caster sugarSalt2 eggs250ml double cream250g fresh or frozen garden peas, blanched for a minute and drained1 tbsp wasabi paste1 garlic clove, crushed3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped½ tsp finely grated lemon zest

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface so that it is 2mm thick and about 34cm square. Use a rolling pin to transfer the pastry to a 24cm diameter and 4cm deep fluted round flan tin.

Press the pastry into the edges of the tin and trim the overhang so that there's 1cm remaining – the pastry will shrink when cooked. Line with greaseproof paper, fill with baking beans and refrigerate for 10 minutes. Bake for 20 minutes, remove the paper and beans, and return to the oven for five or so minutes, until the pastry is cooked through and golden-brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, put a large sauté pan on a medium-high heat and add the butter, thyme and chilli. When it starts to sizzle, add the whole radishes and fry for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the sugar and half a teaspoon of salt, and continue to fry for five minutes, until the radishes are caramelised and cooked through. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Break the eggs into a small bowl and add the cream and half a teaspoon of salt. Whisk together and set aside.

Put the peas in a food processor with the wasabi paste, garlic, anchovies, lemon zest and half teaspoon of salt and blitz to a rough paste. Spread this out on the base of the tart, then layer the caramelised radishes on top; discard the thyme and chilli. Pour over the custard – the radish tops should just peek through above the surface – then bake for 25 minutes, until the custard is set and turns golden-brown.

Leave to cool and rest for five minutes, then serve.

• Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.

Follow Yotam on Twitter.