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Amid a Revived East-West Chill, Cold War Relics Draw New Interest Amid a Revived East-West Chill, Cold War Relics Draw New Interest
(4 months later)
MOSCOW — Stand in a dark tunnel as a red light flashes overhead and an air raid siren howls. MOSCOW — Stand in a dark tunnel as a red light flashes overhead and an air raid siren howls.
Pose for a selfie in front of a wax sculpture of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin, the tyrant who helped start the Cold War by insisting that Russia dominate its Eastern European neighbors.Pose for a selfie in front of a wax sculpture of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin, the tyrant who helped start the Cold War by insisting that Russia dominate its Eastern European neighbors.
Launch nuclear Armageddon — or at least a simulation of it — against the United States.Launch nuclear Armageddon — or at least a simulation of it — against the United States.
These and other thrills await at the Museum of the Cold War, once a curious, dusty junkyard of outdated electronic equipment that has recently gained a new lease on life. These days, scores of Russians and other visitors flock to the museum, in a retired nuclear bunker, drawn as much by history as by the sense that the combustible, post-World War II conflict between East and West has come roaring back to life.These and other thrills await at the Museum of the Cold War, once a curious, dusty junkyard of outdated electronic equipment that has recently gained a new lease on life. These days, scores of Russians and other visitors flock to the museum, in a retired nuclear bunker, drawn as much by history as by the sense that the combustible, post-World War II conflict between East and West has come roaring back to life.
Piotr Sukhinin, a 36-year-old computer salesman, stood recently in the spring sunshine outside the museum, located on a narrow street slanting down to the Moscow River.Piotr Sukhinin, a 36-year-old computer salesman, stood recently in the spring sunshine outside the museum, located on a narrow street slanting down to the Moscow River.
“Right now we are facing quite a tense period in our history, and I thought my sons should know about the Cold War,” said Mr. Sukhinin, indicating two boys aged 8 and 6 standing nearby.“Right now we are facing quite a tense period in our history, and I thought my sons should know about the Cold War,” said Mr. Sukhinin, indicating two boys aged 8 and 6 standing nearby.
“Everything here speaks to the tension we had at that time and reminds us that it still exists,” he said. “To tell you the truth, I don’t think it ever really ended. It was not on the front burner, but it was there in the shadows.”“Everything here speaks to the tension we had at that time and reminds us that it still exists,” he said. “To tell you the truth, I don’t think it ever really ended. It was not on the front burner, but it was there in the shadows.”
Russia’s annexation of the Crimean Peninsula in March, along with continuing tensions over southeastern Ukraine, generated the Cold War’s Lazarus moment.Russia’s annexation of the Crimean Peninsula in March, along with continuing tensions over southeastern Ukraine, generated the Cold War’s Lazarus moment.
The crisis has conjured up the ghosts of infamous showdowns: Hungary, 1956; the Berlin Wall, 1961; the Cuban missile crisis, 1962; Prague, 1968.The crisis has conjured up the ghosts of infamous showdowns: Hungary, 1956; the Berlin Wall, 1961; the Cuban missile crisis, 1962; Prague, 1968.
Bits and pieces of them live on at the Museum of the Cold War. The bunker, the first built in Moscow to withstand a nuclear attack, was originally called Bunker 42. (The number refers to the military designation for its design.) Its main purpose was to house the strategic air command as well as Communications Ministry equipment for radio broadcasts to the vast Soviet bloc.Bits and pieces of them live on at the Museum of the Cold War. The bunker, the first built in Moscow to withstand a nuclear attack, was originally called Bunker 42. (The number refers to the military designation for its design.) Its main purpose was to house the strategic air command as well as Communications Ministry equipment for radio broadcasts to the vast Soviet bloc.
There was also an office for Stalin, who ordered it built but died three years before it became operational in 1956. More than a mile of tunnels, lined with steel plate almost half an inch thick, lie about 215 feet underground — a depth equivalent to an 18-story building. Construction was disguised as a subway station, and eventually a fake, two-story 19th-century apartment house, painted pale yellow, was built above it.There was also an office for Stalin, who ordered it built but died three years before it became operational in 1956. More than a mile of tunnels, lined with steel plate almost half an inch thick, lie about 215 feet underground — a depth equivalent to an 18-story building. Construction was disguised as a subway station, and eventually a fake, two-story 19th-century apartment house, painted pale yellow, was built above it.
Deemed obsolete, the bunker was finally declassified in 1998. Restoration money petered out until the relic was sold and opened as a private museum in 2006. The curators and guides maintain a stony silence about who owns it.Deemed obsolete, the bunker was finally declassified in 1998. Restoration money petered out until the relic was sold and opened as a private museum in 2006. The curators and guides maintain a stony silence about who owns it.
But Cold War curiosity does not come cheap. Entry fees run to $40 a person.But Cold War curiosity does not come cheap. Entry fees run to $40 a person.
The bunker was once so secret that photography was forbidden, according to the guides. The exhibits are a hodgepodge of military castoffs that hint at its past, including old uniforms, model airplanes, pilot gear, maps, electronic equipment and posters on topics like how to find shelter during a nuclear attack.The bunker was once so secret that photography was forbidden, according to the guides. The exhibits are a hodgepodge of military castoffs that hint at its past, including old uniforms, model airplanes, pilot gear, maps, electronic equipment and posters on topics like how to find shelter during a nuclear attack.
Small models of famous Tupolev strategic bombers, including the Tu-95, the Russian answer to the B-52, sit on a long meeting table covered in green felt that seats 44. The wax figure of Stalin dominates the office he never visited.Small models of famous Tupolev strategic bombers, including the Tu-95, the Russian answer to the B-52, sit on a long meeting table covered in green felt that seats 44. The wax figure of Stalin dominates the office he never visited.
While the exhibits conjure up a different era, a lively debate is swirling through Russia about the Cold War redux. A poll conducted in March by the Levada Center, an independent polling agency, asked what level of threat a new version might bring. Among respondents, 10 percent said a very big threat; 38 percent said a fairly big threat; 34 percent thought not too big a threat; 6 percent said no threat; and 12 percent were undecided.While the exhibits conjure up a different era, a lively debate is swirling through Russia about the Cold War redux. A poll conducted in March by the Levada Center, an independent polling agency, asked what level of threat a new version might bring. Among respondents, 10 percent said a very big threat; 38 percent said a fairly big threat; 34 percent thought not too big a threat; 6 percent said no threat; and 12 percent were undecided.
The young, especially those born after the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, “know nothing about the Cold War,” said Natalya V. Zubarevich, a Moscow State University professor who specializes in social and political geography. “They only feel proud, ‘We are winners.’ ”The young, especially those born after the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, “know nothing about the Cold War,” said Natalya V. Zubarevich, a Moscow State University professor who specializes in social and political geography. “They only feel proud, ‘We are winners.’ ”
The triumphant mood has prompted braggadocio from some senior Russian officials about a new showdown. “Russians can adapt and survive much better than Americans and Europeans because for the past 20 years we have survived several crises,” said Sergei A. Zheleznyak, a deputy speaker of Russia’s Parliament, against whom the United States issued sanctions for encouraging Crimea’s annexation. “The people don’t like it, of course, but they know how to live in such conditions.”The triumphant mood has prompted braggadocio from some senior Russian officials about a new showdown. “Russians can adapt and survive much better than Americans and Europeans because for the past 20 years we have survived several crises,” said Sergei A. Zheleznyak, a deputy speaker of Russia’s Parliament, against whom the United States issued sanctions for encouraging Crimea’s annexation. “The people don’t like it, of course, but they know how to live in such conditions.”
The nuclear bunker was used just once, during the Cuban missile crisis. Some 2,500 air force officers and civilian communications specialists lived underground for 10 days, the guides said, bracing for World War III. Cuba spooked both sides enough that they developed Cold War manners and customs akin to medieval jousting.The nuclear bunker was used just once, during the Cuban missile crisis. Some 2,500 air force officers and civilian communications specialists lived underground for 10 days, the guides said, bracing for World War III. Cuba spooked both sides enough that they developed Cold War manners and customs akin to medieval jousting.
“There were rules of the game during the last 20 years of the Cold War,” said Lilia Shevtsova, a historian and political analyst at the Carnegie Moscow Center. The confrontation became less about war and more of a competition between the liberal, Western ideology and Communism.“There were rules of the game during the last 20 years of the Cold War,” said Lilia Shevtsova, a historian and political analyst at the Carnegie Moscow Center. The confrontation became less about war and more of a competition between the liberal, Western ideology and Communism.
Russian analysts say the Cold War never resolved the conflict over Eastern Europe. And Russia, which lost an estimated 20 million people in World War II, still regards countries like Ukraine as an essential strategic buffer.Russian analysts say the Cold War never resolved the conflict over Eastern Europe. And Russia, which lost an estimated 20 million people in World War II, still regards countries like Ukraine as an essential strategic buffer.
“The Cold War was proclaimed as finished, but it was never finished,” said Sergei Karaganov, dean of the School of International Economics and Foreign Affairs. “There was a gray zone in Europe.”“The Cold War was proclaimed as finished, but it was never finished,” said Sergei Karaganov, dean of the School of International Economics and Foreign Affairs. “There was a gray zone in Europe.”
The bunker tour can seem rather like current statements emanating from the Kremlin: a jumble of jingoism, nationalism and preaching about the benefits of ensuring peace through international law.The bunker tour can seem rather like current statements emanating from the Kremlin: a jumble of jingoism, nationalism and preaching about the benefits of ensuring peace through international law.
The guide allowed children sitting at old consoles to simulate firing nuclear-tipped, intercontinental ballistic missiles against the United States, a giant screen overhead showing mushroom clouds erupting above American cities. “We are trying to explain to people the horror of using nuclear weapons and the importance of peace in the world,” said the museum’s general manager, Igor V. Lavrenchuk, a retired air force lieutenant colonel.The guide allowed children sitting at old consoles to simulate firing nuclear-tipped, intercontinental ballistic missiles against the United States, a giant screen overhead showing mushroom clouds erupting above American cities. “We are trying to explain to people the horror of using nuclear weapons and the importance of peace in the world,” said the museum’s general manager, Igor V. Lavrenchuk, a retired air force lieutenant colonel.
As if to emphasize that point on peace, one tunnel was converted into a private banquet space with flashing disco lights, its own chef, and toilet signs shaped like bombs.As if to emphasize that point on peace, one tunnel was converted into a private banquet space with flashing disco lights, its own chef, and toilet signs shaped like bombs.
On one recent Saturday, an 11-year-old boy was having his birthday party there. “Maybe they can start using it again,” quipped Maarten van der Donk, a Dutch insurance executive collecting his son. “Definitely an unusual venue for a birthday.”On one recent Saturday, an 11-year-old boy was having his birthday party there. “Maybe they can start using it again,” quipped Maarten van der Donk, a Dutch insurance executive collecting his son. “Definitely an unusual venue for a birthday.”
In another Cold War twist, the museum guide first denied the existence of the party space, then uttered a terse “I cannot confirm that” when asked about the stream of departing children.In another Cold War twist, the museum guide first denied the existence of the party space, then uttered a terse “I cannot confirm that” when asked about the stream of departing children.
If there is a certain nostalgia among Russians for their former weight on the world stage, there is none for its Cold War isolation, with citizens barred from traveling abroad and Western goods unavailable.If there is a certain nostalgia among Russians for their former weight on the world stage, there is none for its Cold War isolation, with citizens barred from traveling abroad and Western goods unavailable.
Olga Wildenhein, 42, a teacher from Kazakhstan, a former Soviet republic, said she visited the museum to learn about old state secrets. She left disappointed, she said, because none were revealed.Olga Wildenhein, 42, a teacher from Kazakhstan, a former Soviet republic, said she visited the museum to learn about old state secrets. She left disappointed, she said, because none were revealed.
But the recap of the close brush with nuclear war over Cuba did strike a chord.But the recap of the close brush with nuclear war over Cuba did strike a chord.
“I hope the world has developed by now and that people are wise enough not to continue this,” she said, and then cited a Khrushchev line from the tour: “We should not explode too powerful a bomb because we can break windows in our own house.”“I hope the world has developed by now and that people are wise enough not to continue this,” she said, and then cited a Khrushchev line from the tour: “We should not explode too powerful a bomb because we can break windows in our own house.”