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Accustomed to Floods, but ‘Nothing Like This,’ in Southern England Accustomed to Floods, but ‘Nothing Like This,’ in Southern England
(7 months later)
MUCHELNEY, England — The village of Muchelney has become an island. Cars stand idle; locals canoe across the flooded plain or take a police boat down the road-turned-river connecting them to what they now call the “mainland.” About halfway, a silver sedan bobs in the water, its roof barely protruding. It has been there for five weeks. MUCHELNEY, England — The village of Muchelney has become an island. Cars stand idle; locals canoe across the flooded plain or take a police boat down the road-turned-river connecting them to what they now call the “mainland.” About halfway, a silver sedan bobs in the water, its roof barely protruding. It has been there for five weeks.
Even by Britain’s rain-soaked standards it has been a wet winter. For several parts of the country, it was the wettest January on record, and it is still raining. Large swaths of southern England remain on flood alert. Muchelney and the adjacent hamlet of Thorney, about 120 miles southwest of London, are among the hardest hit areas — though it took the government awhile to realize this.Even by Britain’s rain-soaked standards it has been a wet winter. For several parts of the country, it was the wettest January on record, and it is still raining. Large swaths of southern England remain on flood alert. Muchelney and the adjacent hamlet of Thorney, about 120 miles southwest of London, are among the hardest hit areas — though it took the government awhile to realize this.
Roderic Baillie-Grohman, 57, was standing in knee-deep water in his living room here one recent afternoon, surveying the damage, when the phone rang. It was a recorded message from the environment agency, the British government body in charge of flood management. The flood warning has now been lifted, a cheerful voice told him, as gentle waves curled around his rubber waders.Roderic Baillie-Grohman, 57, was standing in knee-deep water in his living room here one recent afternoon, surveying the damage, when the phone rang. It was a recorded message from the environment agency, the British government body in charge of flood management. The flood warning has now been lifted, a cheerful voice told him, as gentle waves curled around his rubber waders.
“I nearly burst out laughing,” said Mr. Baillie-Grohman, a stonemason, who recounted the scene this week.“I nearly burst out laughing,” said Mr. Baillie-Grohman, a stonemason, who recounted the scene this week.
Other bureaucratic blunders have been less amusing. When the water first rose on Jan. 3, it flooded not just homes but septic tanks, making it impossible to flush toilets. It took the local government authority three and a half weeks to send portable chemical toilets to the village, Mr. Baillie-Grohman said.Other bureaucratic blunders have been less amusing. When the water first rose on Jan. 3, it flooded not just homes but septic tanks, making it impossible to flush toilets. It took the local government authority three and a half weeks to send portable chemical toilets to the village, Mr. Baillie-Grohman said.
Until then, he said, “it was plastic bags.” Showers have been rationed and cold, and the use of washing machines — those not destroyed by the flood — discouraged to avoid adding to the water table.Until then, he said, “it was plastic bags.” Showers have been rationed and cold, and the use of washing machines — those not destroyed by the flood — discouraged to avoid adding to the water table.
“It’s been like extreme camping,” said his wife, Holly Baillie-Grohman, recalling a recent dinner party at a neighbor’s house. They canoed out of their front door, through the gate and up the road all the way into their friends’ front room.“It’s been like extreme camping,” said his wife, Holly Baillie-Grohman, recalling a recent dinner party at a neighbor’s house. They canoed out of their front door, through the gate and up the road all the way into their friends’ front room.
The weather, always a popular topic here, has suddenly become the subject of political controversy. Prime Minister David Cameron faced questions this week, not least about a flood help line that has been charging the equivalent of about 65 cents a minute. “Floodsuckers,” read a headline in the tabloid The Sun, while the satirical magazine Private Eye ran a spoof cover featuring a diver underwater with the headline, “Environment Minister Visits Somerset.”The weather, always a popular topic here, has suddenly become the subject of political controversy. Prime Minister David Cameron faced questions this week, not least about a flood help line that has been charging the equivalent of about 65 cents a minute. “Floodsuckers,” read a headline in the tabloid The Sun, while the satirical magazine Private Eye ran a spoof cover featuring a diver underwater with the headline, “Environment Minister Visits Somerset.”
Here in the Somerset Levels, a vast stretch of moors in southwestern England, flooding is very much part of the local lore and lifestyle. Older residents recall driving a horse and cart through the floodwaters, and toddlers often learn to walk in rubber boots. The town of Glastonbury, home to Britain’s notably wet music festival, is 10 miles down the road.Here in the Somerset Levels, a vast stretch of moors in southwestern England, flooding is very much part of the local lore and lifestyle. Older residents recall driving a horse and cart through the floodwaters, and toddlers often learn to walk in rubber boots. The town of Glastonbury, home to Britain’s notably wet music festival, is 10 miles down the road.
Muchelney means “large island” in Old English. The monks who built an abbey here in the seventh century knew that for several months of the year they would be cut off by water. Since then the flood plains have been managed. Rivers have been diverted and permanent pumping stations are on standby.Muchelney means “large island” in Old English. The monks who built an abbey here in the seventh century knew that for several months of the year they would be cut off by water. Since then the flood plains have been managed. Rivers have been diverted and permanent pumping stations are on standby.
“There have always been floods,” said Nancy Walker, 80, the oldest native resident of Muchelney, “but nothing like this.”“There have always been floods,” said Nancy Walker, 80, the oldest native resident of Muchelney, “but nothing like this.”
The flood of a century, officials have called it — again.The flood of a century, officials have called it — again.
“They said it was a once-in-a-lifetime flood last year, but this year is worse,” said Elizabeth Nightingale, a retired doctor who has lived in the village for 34 years.“They said it was a once-in-a-lifetime flood last year, but this year is worse,” said Elizabeth Nightingale, a retired doctor who has lived in the village for 34 years.
When the water started rising again last month, leaking through cracks in the stone floors of her home and seeping in from the terrace, she and her husband had not yet completed the insurance claims for last year’s damage, $325,000 worth. Their premiums have since doubled, and their deductible has surged to $26,000 from $1,650.When the water started rising again last month, leaking through cracks in the stone floors of her home and seeping in from the terrace, she and her husband had not yet completed the insurance claims for last year’s damage, $325,000 worth. Their premiums have since doubled, and their deductible has surged to $26,000 from $1,650.
Even for those residents whose houses were not flooded, being cut off from the next village for more than a month has been frustrating. Muchelney has no stores of its own, no school and no doctor’s office — let alone a bar. “I haven’t been to the pub for a month,” sighed Robin Board, a farmer-turned-yoga teacher.Even for those residents whose houses were not flooded, being cut off from the next village for more than a month has been frustrating. Muchelney has no stores of its own, no school and no doctor’s office — let alone a bar. “I haven’t been to the pub for a month,” sighed Robin Board, a farmer-turned-yoga teacher.
It took a week for a humanitarian boat service to be set up, operated by firefighters and police divers more accustomed to being deployed to far-flung disaster zones.It took a week for a humanitarian boat service to be set up, operated by firefighters and police divers more accustomed to being deployed to far-flung disaster zones.
Now the journey to the nearest supermarket, normally a five-minute drive, has become an hourlong ordeal.Now the journey to the nearest supermarket, normally a five-minute drive, has become an hourlong ordeal.
The boat has been running only until 3:30 p.m., giving islanders a de facto curfew and forcing children to leave school 45 minutes early. Not that they mind. “I like the floods,” beamed Joe Walker, the son of a local farmer.The boat has been running only until 3:30 p.m., giving islanders a de facto curfew and forcing children to leave school 45 minutes early. Not that they mind. “I like the floods,” beamed Joe Walker, the son of a local farmer.
For the most part, though, villagers have accepted their lot with characteristic British stoicism and humor.For the most part, though, villagers have accepted their lot with characteristic British stoicism and humor.
One has taken to writing a newsletter under the pseudonym Darth Wader. “The South Somerset village of Muchelney, cut off from the mainland for the second year running,” he wrote in his latest edition, “might declare independence from the U.K.”One has taken to writing a newsletter under the pseudonym Darth Wader. “The South Somerset village of Muchelney, cut off from the mainland for the second year running,” he wrote in his latest edition, “might declare independence from the U.K.”
A spoof ad offered the prize of a single Wellington boot “to the most ineffective politician, government agency, crass newspaper editor.” It came three weeks after The Sun sent one of its Page 3 topless models in a dinghy to “cheer up” stranded residents. The model, a Somerset girl by the name of Poppy Rivers, arrived in a tight red T-shirt with cans of beer and copies of The Sun.A spoof ad offered the prize of a single Wellington boot “to the most ineffective politician, government agency, crass newspaper editor.” It came three weeks after The Sun sent one of its Page 3 topless models in a dinghy to “cheer up” stranded residents. The model, a Somerset girl by the name of Poppy Rivers, arrived in a tight red T-shirt with cans of beer and copies of The Sun.
Villagers were not amused, and Ms. Rivers was swiftly turned back.Villagers were not amused, and Ms. Rivers was swiftly turned back.
Prince Charles, arriving by boat this week wearing rather more low-key rubber boots, got a warmer welcome from residents, particularly after he said it was a “tragedy” that nothing had been done to help them for so long. “There is nothing like a jolly good disaster to get people to start doing something,” the prince said.Prince Charles, arriving by boat this week wearing rather more low-key rubber boots, got a warmer welcome from residents, particularly after he said it was a “tragedy” that nothing had been done to help them for so long. “There is nothing like a jolly good disaster to get people to start doing something,” the prince said.
Sure enough, Mr. Cameron this week took personal control of emergency efforts, pledging an extra $165 million for flood repairs and maintenance around the country, and vowing to do “everything that can be done.”Sure enough, Mr. Cameron this week took personal control of emergency efforts, pledging an extra $165 million for flood repairs and maintenance around the country, and vowing to do “everything that can be done.”
But the prime minister, a Conservative who was confronted by angry residents when he visited another flooded village before Christmas, has not made the trip to Muchelney. Neither has the local member of Parliament, David Heath of the Liberal Democrats, or the chairman of the environment agency, Lord Smith, a Labour peer.But the prime minister, a Conservative who was confronted by angry residents when he visited another flooded village before Christmas, has not made the trip to Muchelney. Neither has the local member of Parliament, David Heath of the Liberal Democrats, or the chairman of the environment agency, Lord Smith, a Labour peer.
Some here blame climate change and rising sea levels for the extreme weather. Others say the government should start dredging the rivers again to make more space for rainwater. The practice was abandoned in the 1980s because of concerns from environmentalists about ecological damage.Some here blame climate change and rising sea levels for the extreme weather. Others say the government should start dredging the rivers again to make more space for rainwater. The practice was abandoned in the 1980s because of concerns from environmentalists about ecological damage.
But for all the lack of attention from their politicians, people here speak warmly of the outpouring of generosity from neighboring villages and churches. They mention in particular a taxi driver from nearby Taunton, Jared Colclough, who brought boatloads of milk, bread and other necessities in the early days of the flood.But for all the lack of attention from their politicians, people here speak warmly of the outpouring of generosity from neighboring villages and churches. They mention in particular a taxi driver from nearby Taunton, Jared Colclough, who brought boatloads of milk, bread and other necessities in the early days of the flood.
For a brief moment the other day, the sun came out, but dark clouds were already building in the west. Mr. Board scanned the sky.For a brief moment the other day, the sun came out, but dark clouds were already building in the west. Mr. Board scanned the sky.
“Looks like it’s going to rain again,” he said.“Looks like it’s going to rain again,” he said.