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Traditional technology looms large for luxury companies | Traditional technology looms large for luxury companies |
(about 17 hours later) | |
It's a tall order to be best dressed at the launch of a tailor in Savile Row, the home of bespoke tailoring in London for almost 200 years. | It's a tall order to be best dressed at the launch of a tailor in Savile Row, the home of bespoke tailoring in London for almost 200 years. |
But James Sleater, co-founder of Cad and the Dandy, is doing his best. | But James Sleater, co-founder of Cad and the Dandy, is doing his best. |
At a party to mark the arrival of Savile Row's newest resident, he is dressed in a suit with a difference - one made in-store on a 200-year-old loom. | At a party to mark the arrival of Savile Row's newest resident, he is dressed in a suit with a difference - one made in-store on a 200-year-old loom. |
The suit was created to showcase the company's in-house talent, but it is unlikely the loom will be fired up again. | The suit was created to showcase the company's in-house talent, but it is unlikely the loom will be fired up again. |
At nine weeks, the loom-made suit took around 10 times longer to finish as it would take to fashion a suit with the aid of modern technology. | |
Labour-intensive | Labour-intensive |
It would also come with a price tag to match. | It would also come with a price tag to match. |
"Our average suit costs around £1,000 - for this one we would probably be talking around £10,000 to £15,000," Mr Sleater says. | "Our average suit costs around £1,000 - for this one we would probably be talking around £10,000 to £15,000," Mr Sleater says. |
Bespoke tailoring remains a very labour-intensive and highly skilled process - the cloth-making alone has seven stages and can involve five different companies. | Bespoke tailoring remains a very labour-intensive and highly skilled process - the cloth-making alone has seven stages and can involve five different companies. |
But taking tailoring back to its most traditional of roots is simply not viable for cads or dandies, it seems. | But taking tailoring back to its most traditional of roots is simply not viable for cads or dandies, it seems. |
These days, most intricate procedures can often be performed quicker, more accurately and cheaper than when left to human hands or traditional methods. | These days, most intricate procedures can often be performed quicker, more accurately and cheaper than when left to human hands or traditional methods. |
So other than out of misty-eyed sentimentalism, is there any point in sticking to traditional techniques when machines are often superior? | So other than out of misty-eyed sentimentalism, is there any point in sticking to traditional techniques when machines are often superior? |
Rug for Obama | Rug for Obama |
Far from the grandeur of Savile Row, in the shadow of the Himalayas, overlooking Kathmandu, there is weaving of another kind. | Far from the grandeur of Savile Row, in the shadow of the Himalayas, overlooking Kathmandu, there is weaving of another kind. |
Here Nepalese craftsmen are weaving rugs with vertical looms, using the same methods practised for hundreds of years. | Here Nepalese craftsmen are weaving rugs with vertical looms, using the same methods practised for hundreds of years. |
The rugs they are making for Luke Irwin are destined for the rich and famous. | The rugs they are making for Luke Irwin are destined for the rich and famous. |
Mr Irwin, who is set to open an eponymous store in New York next year, has even seen one of his rugs given as a gift to President Barack Obama by another head of state. | Mr Irwin, who is set to open an eponymous store in New York next year, has even seen one of his rugs given as a gift to President Barack Obama by another head of state. |
He is quick to accept that a machine can create a rug that is more accurate to a pattern than his Nepalese staff can manage. | He is quick to accept that a machine can create a rug that is more accurate to a pattern than his Nepalese staff can manage. |
But to praise such accuracy is to miss the point, he believes. | But to praise such accuracy is to miss the point, he believes. |
"Computer software can create a rug that is perfect to the nth degree, but you can tell every time which is machine-made," he says. | "Computer software can create a rug that is perfect to the nth degree, but you can tell every time which is machine-made," he says. |
"In our world the customer gets exactly what they want - they have total control - but the joy is the feeling there has been a human interaction with it. It gives the item depth and character." | "In our world the customer gets exactly what they want - they have total control - but the joy is the feeling there has been a human interaction with it. It gives the item depth and character." |
Well-heeled clientele | Well-heeled clientele |
But like the tailors of Savile Row this comes at a price. | But like the tailors of Savile Row this comes at a price. |
Mr Irwin's rugs cost an average of £4,000 for an 8ft x 10ft item. | Mr Irwin's rugs cost an average of £4,000 for an 8ft x 10ft item. |
He says you can snap up a similar-sized rug for £50 when it has been mass-produced. | He says you can snap up a similar-sized rug for £50 when it has been mass-produced. |
Indeed, time and again when asking whether the old ways still had a place, the companies that replied "yes" were selling products with price tags that restrict them to a well-heeled clientele. | Indeed, time and again when asking whether the old ways still had a place, the companies that replied "yes" were selling products with price tags that restrict them to a well-heeled clientele. |
On a few occasions companies said they were yet to encounter technology that could replicate the skills of the artisan. | On a few occasions companies said they were yet to encounter technology that could replicate the skills of the artisan. |
For example, at the studio of rare decorative surfaces specialist Decorum Est in India, they practice repousse, a technique whereby malleable metal is hammered into shape. | For example, at the studio of rare decorative surfaces specialist Decorum Est in India, they practice repousse, a technique whereby malleable metal is hammered into shape. |
The company says the pattern created by this method imbues a "subtle, inconsistent texture that creates a beautiful play of light that a stamping machine could never produce". | The company says the pattern created by this method imbues a "subtle, inconsistent texture that creates a beautiful play of light that a stamping machine could never produce". |
Reminiscent of yesteryear | Reminiscent of yesteryear |
Mr Sleater makes a similar observation about human input in the tailoring process. | Mr Sleater makes a similar observation about human input in the tailoring process. |
"If you get me to measure you, you will suck in your stomach and puff out your chest - everyone does it," he says. | "If you get me to measure you, you will suck in your stomach and puff out your chest - everyone does it," he says. |
"If I ask people to relax then their waistlines can increase by three inches. | "If I ask people to relax then their waistlines can increase by three inches. |
"If you rely on a computer to scan you for five seconds for a fitting then you already fail at the first hurdle." | "If you rely on a computer to scan you for five seconds for a fitting then you already fail at the first hurdle." |
In other cases companies are forced to eschew the latest technology for heritage reasons. | In other cases companies are forced to eschew the latest technology for heritage reasons. |
For example, the vintage British carriages used by the celebrated Orient Express keep not only their traditional interiors but also technology that is ancient in railway terms. | For example, the vintage British carriages used by the celebrated Orient Express keep not only their traditional interiors but also technology that is ancient in railway terms. |
Lighting and the main power circuits are still powered off a dynamo run off a pulley attached to the wheels. | Lighting and the main power circuits are still powered off a dynamo run off a pulley attached to the wheels. |
The traditional frames used underneath the carriages conjure up a more noisy, rough ride, reminiscent of yesteryear. | The traditional frames used underneath the carriages conjure up a more noisy, rough ride, reminiscent of yesteryear. |
But even a brand as venerable as this has to face up to the technological future, according to chief engineer Julian Clark. | But even a brand as venerable as this has to face up to the technological future, according to chief engineer Julian Clark. |
"Eventually you just aren't going to be able to get the parts - and the skills to maintain these trains are almost non-existent," he says. | "Eventually you just aren't going to be able to get the parts - and the skills to maintain these trains are almost non-existent," he says. |
"Take the wheels: there are only two companies left in the UK that can fix them." | "Take the wheels: there are only two companies left in the UK that can fix them." |
Indeed, so rare are the skills needed to maintain the old technology that the company is starting an apprenticeship scheme to teach them before they die out. | Indeed, so rare are the skills needed to maintain the old technology that the company is starting an apprenticeship scheme to teach them before they die out. |
But in all these cases we are still at the luxurious end of the market. | But in all these cases we are still at the luxurious end of the market. |
So perhaps the old ways have a place, but only for those who can afford them. | So perhaps the old ways have a place, but only for those who can afford them. |
Perfect tonic | Perfect tonic |
It's enough to make you turn to drink - for a solution to the problem anyway. | It's enough to make you turn to drink - for a solution to the problem anyway. |
Nik Fordham is master distiller at gin brand Bombay Sapphire. His company ships millions bottles of gin annually across the globe. | Nik Fordham is master distiller at gin brand Bombay Sapphire. His company ships millions bottles of gin annually across the globe. |
But at the heart of the operation is technology unchanged since 1834. | But at the heart of the operation is technology unchanged since 1834. |
The company uses stills called pots as part of the vapour infusion process used to create the flavour of the gin. | The company uses stills called pots as part of the vapour infusion process used to create the flavour of the gin. |
Not only are any new stills a direct copy of the 1834 design, the original still remains in operation. | Not only are any new stills a direct copy of the 1834 design, the original still remains in operation. |
"The pot stills are core to our business and there isn't a better way of doing it," Mr Fordham says. | "The pot stills are core to our business and there isn't a better way of doing it," Mr Fordham says. |
"I can't envision a eureka moment when we will find something to replace them." | "I can't envision a eureka moment when we will find something to replace them." |
Mr Fordham also has an interesting claim to fame: in the 1990s he did research into the creation of an electric nose. | Mr Fordham also has an interesting claim to fame: in the 1990s he did research into the creation of an electric nose. |
But no matter how hard he tried he couldn't create something to replace the human input required to create products such as Bombay Sapphire. | But no matter how hard he tried he couldn't create something to replace the human input required to create products such as Bombay Sapphire. |
"The electric nose could smell 9,500 different aromas - but it couldn't tell you if something tasted nice," he says. | "The electric nose could smell 9,500 different aromas - but it couldn't tell you if something tasted nice," he says. |
So maybe there is a place for the old ways as technology continues its unstoppable march. | So maybe there is a place for the old ways as technology continues its unstoppable march. |
But to find the products that result, it seems that more often than not it won't be a case of following your nose, but your wallet. | But to find the products that result, it seems that more often than not it won't be a case of following your nose, but your wallet. |
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