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Gippsland pinot noir named Australia's best wine Gippsland pinot noir named Australia's best wine
(2 months later)
Shiraz has been dethroned as king of the Aussie reds – with the 2010 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir being awarded wine of the year at the inaugural James Halliday Wine Companion Awards Melbourne on Wednesday.Shiraz has been dethroned as king of the Aussie reds – with the 2010 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir being awarded wine of the year at the inaugural James Halliday Wine Companion Awards Melbourne on Wednesday.
To be fair, this land's most famous wine, Penfolds Grange 2008 did walk away with the prize for top shiraz, with Penfolds also taking the gong for for winery of the year and best cabernet sauvignon. But for once let’s not dwell on the big red with the bigger reputation, and focus instead on the elegant, understated usurper.To be fair, this land's most famous wine, Penfolds Grange 2008 did walk away with the prize for top shiraz, with Penfolds also taking the gong for for winery of the year and best cabernet sauvignon. But for once let’s not dwell on the big red with the bigger reputation, and focus instead on the elegant, understated usurper.
It seems the best thing you could be drinking right now is a pinot noir from Gippsland. It’s not the most obvious grape/region combination. But it does highlight a point often overlooked by domestic drinkers: some of our most spellbinding wines hail from the cooler climes of Victoria and Tasmania, where this variety is thriving. It seems the best thing you could be drinking right now is a pinot noir from Gippsland. It’s not the most obvious grape/region combination. But it does highlight a point often overlooked by domestic drinkers: some of our most spellbinding wines hail from the cooler climes of Victoria and Tasmania, where this variety is thriving. 
Of course, Bass Phillip’s winning wine is no ordinary pinot. It comes with a price tag around $350 (though that’s less than half the $785 RRP for the current vintage of Grange) and brings together the perfume, red-fruit purity, fresh acid, fine-grained tannin, ageing potential and, ahem, ethereality that only the finest examples can muster.Of course, Bass Phillip’s winning wine is no ordinary pinot. It comes with a price tag around $350 (though that’s less than half the $785 RRP for the current vintage of Grange) and brings together the perfume, red-fruit purity, fresh acid, fine-grained tannin, ageing potential and, ahem, ethereality that only the finest examples can muster.
Bass Phillip winemaker Phillip Jones has built an impeccable reputation since planting vines in Leongatha South in 1979, and Halliday has long been a vocal admirer. Indeed, Halliday put his money where his mouth is with pinot noir, establishing his own Coldstream Hills winery in the Yarra Valley in the mid 80s. (It has since been swallowed into the portfolio of Penfolds owner, Treasury Wine Estates.)Bass Phillip winemaker Phillip Jones has built an impeccable reputation since planting vines in Leongatha South in 1979, and Halliday has long been a vocal admirer. Indeed, Halliday put his money where his mouth is with pinot noir, establishing his own Coldstream Hills winery in the Yarra Valley in the mid 80s. (It has since been swallowed into the portfolio of Penfolds owner, Treasury Wine Estates.)
Still, this victory offers yet more evidence of an important phenomenon. The world is stuffed with pinotphiles and Australians just don’t know how good they’ve got it.Still, this victory offers yet more evidence of an important phenomenon. The world is stuffed with pinotphiles and Australians just don’t know how good they’ve got it.
This year, however, the southern hemisphere’s three biggest conventions for pinot worship coincide – the triennial Pinot noir NZ, biennial Mornington Peninsula international pinot noir celebration, and annual Stonier international pinot noir tasting – with writers and winemakers heaping more praise on local wines.This year, however, the southern hemisphere’s three biggest conventions for pinot worship coincide – the triennial Pinot noir NZ, biennial Mornington Peninsula international pinot noir celebration, and annual Stonier international pinot noir tasting – with writers and winemakers heaping more praise on local wines.
Meanwhile, a blind tasting of Aussie pinot has judges swooning over their spittoons. In the August edition of UK magazine Decanter, all 81 wines were commended, with 19 judged “outstanding” or “highly recommended”. Velvety, silky, elegant, beguiling, gorgeous, graceful – the tasting notes were peppered with such effusive adjectives.Meanwhile, a blind tasting of Aussie pinot has judges swooning over their spittoons. In the August edition of UK magazine Decanter, all 81 wines were commended, with 19 judged “outstanding” or “highly recommended”. Velvety, silky, elegant, beguiling, gorgeous, graceful – the tasting notes were peppered with such effusive adjectives.
The irony is that almost half of those top-scoring wines aren’t even available in Britain. The Poms have a right to whinge about that – but what of the ungrateful Aussies, who have access to all these great bottles and leave them on the shelf?The irony is that almost half of those top-scoring wines aren’t even available in Britain. The Poms have a right to whinge about that – but what of the ungrateful Aussies, who have access to all these great bottles and leave them on the shelf?
Admittedly, there’s a bit of a pinot premium. Most decent entry-level wines come in above $20, with reserve-quality normally kicking in around $50. But one can’t help feeling that there’s a lingering perception of pinot as a wussy grape, one for wine geeks who’d wither at the merest whiff of a ball-tearing shiraz.Admittedly, there’s a bit of a pinot premium. Most decent entry-level wines come in above $20, with reserve-quality normally kicking in around $50. But one can’t help feeling that there’s a lingering perception of pinot as a wussy grape, one for wine geeks who’d wither at the merest whiff of a ball-tearing shiraz.
This, Australia’s signature red grape, made up a quarter of the total Australian crush in 2013. Pinot noir, though up on last year’s effort, accounted for just 2%.This, Australia’s signature red grape, made up a quarter of the total Australian crush in 2013. Pinot noir, though up on last year’s effort, accounted for just 2%.
As Andrew Jefford, one of the smitten Decanter tasters, commented: “Everyone thinks of Australia as the country where you get big reds. Ironically, for me, pinot noir is more successful than shiraz right now.” Optimistically, perhaps, he went on: “It can’t be long before the world wakes up to the great value offered by Victorian and Tasmanian pinot noir.”As Andrew Jefford, one of the smitten Decanter tasters, commented: “Everyone thinks of Australia as the country where you get big reds. Ironically, for me, pinot noir is more successful than shiraz right now.” Optimistically, perhaps, he went on: “It can’t be long before the world wakes up to the great value offered by Victorian and Tasmanian pinot noir.”
But what about Australians? Perhaps the sound of James Halliday banging the drum for Bass Phillip will be enough to raise us from our slumber.But what about Australians? Perhaps the sound of James Halliday banging the drum for Bass Phillip will be enough to raise us from our slumber.
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