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Swan upping: an old tradition acquires a modern, scientific purpose Swan upping: an old tradition acquires a modern, scientific purpose
(2 months later)
John Dwan is cradling a royal baby: a cygnet. The bundle of downy feathers, its legs trussed behind it and paddles neatly folded, bends its supple, grey neck down towards his arm. He leans to dip the creature nearer the water from the boat, undoing the thin rope, and the bird lets out a subdued cry as it shakes out its wings and swims off, followed by its parent.John Dwan is cradling a royal baby: a cygnet. The bundle of downy feathers, its legs trussed behind it and paddles neatly folded, bends its supple, grey neck down towards his arm. He leans to dip the creature nearer the water from the boat, undoing the thin rope, and the bird lets out a subdued cry as it shakes out its wings and swims off, followed by its parent.
Every other week of the year, Dwan is a tugboat captain on the tidal reaches of the Thames, one of the last of the old Thames watermen who have plied this trade in one form or another since the Middle Ages. For this one week – the third in July, every year – he belongs instead to the Queen, just like the swan he has released. He is a swan upper, pledged to capture and count each of the Queen's birds on a long stretch of the Thames, ringing their legs with identifying tags before letting them go.Every other week of the year, Dwan is a tugboat captain on the tidal reaches of the Thames, one of the last of the old Thames watermen who have plied this trade in one form or another since the Middle Ages. For this one week – the third in July, every year – he belongs instead to the Queen, just like the swan he has released. He is a swan upper, pledged to capture and count each of the Queen's birds on a long stretch of the Thames, ringing their legs with identifying tags before letting them go.
Swan upping – the process of counting Thames swans and identifying them as belonging to the Queen or one of the two City livery companies that also have rights to them – has been carried out since the 12th century, when the birds were so prized for their meat that all wild swans in England were appropriated as property of the crown. The pomp, finery and techniques of swan upping would be familiar to the villagers who looked on centuries ago.Swan upping – the process of counting Thames swans and identifying them as belonging to the Queen or one of the two City livery companies that also have rights to them – has been carried out since the 12th century, when the birds were so prized for their meat that all wild swans in England were appropriated as property of the crown. The pomp, finery and techniques of swan upping would be familiar to the villagers who looked on centuries ago.
The uniforms have changed a little: the Queen's swan marker now wears a bright scarlet blazer, with brass, crested buttons and sparkling white trousers, with a swan feather in his white cap, and his swan uppers don scarlet T-shirts. But the flags fluttering behind each boat still bear the Queen's arms and those of the Vintners' and Dyers' livery companies.The uniforms have changed a little: the Queen's swan marker now wears a bright scarlet blazer, with brass, crested buttons and sparkling white trousers, with a swan feather in his white cap, and his swan uppers don scarlet T-shirts. But the flags fluttering behind each boat still bear the Queen's arms and those of the Vintners' and Dyers' livery companies.
What started as a way of preventing poaching and reminding the residents of Thameside villages of the crown's powers has turned into a scientific survey of the river environment, providing data on swan populations and an opportunity to educate children on aquatic ecology. Swans today face dangers unknown to our ancestors: minks invading their nests; a virus spread by ducks; discarded fishing tackle; and, increasingly, attacks from people with air rifles and dogs.What started as a way of preventing poaching and reminding the residents of Thameside villages of the crown's powers has turned into a scientific survey of the river environment, providing data on swan populations and an opportunity to educate children on aquatic ecology. Swans today face dangers unknown to our ancestors: minks invading their nests; a virus spread by ducks; discarded fishing tackle; and, increasingly, attacks from people with air rifles and dogs.
One of the skiffs holds Christopher Perrins, professor of zoology at Oxford University and the Queen's swan warden. When the swans are safely trussed – they are remarkably docile – he and his team of two weigh the birds by suspending them in a piece of cloth between two coathangers, put identifying rings on their legs and check their health. "We get some very useful information," he says. "We're interested in how the population is faring and whether enough babies are being born and surviving to replace the adults that die. The method seems to work, and the population is OK at the moment."One of the skiffs holds Christopher Perrins, professor of zoology at Oxford University and the Queen's swan warden. When the swans are safely trussed – they are remarkably docile – he and his team of two weigh the birds by suspending them in a piece of cloth between two coathangers, put identifying rings on their legs and check their health. "We get some very useful information," he says. "We're interested in how the population is faring and whether enough babies are being born and surviving to replace the adults that die. The method seems to work, and the population is OK at the moment."
Last year, for the first time in memory, the tradition had to be abandoned, as record rainfall had swollen the Thames and its meadows so high that upping would have been dangerous. This year, the sun beats down on the sweating rowers and the waving crowds who line the banks. Last year's absence means that one of the key purposes will be to check on the effects of the flooding, which may have destroyed some of the birds' bankside nests.Last year, for the first time in memory, the tradition had to be abandoned, as record rainfall had swollen the Thames and its meadows so high that upping would have been dangerous. This year, the sun beats down on the sweating rowers and the waving crowds who line the banks. Last year's absence means that one of the key purposes will be to check on the effects of the flooding, which may have destroyed some of the birds' bankside nests.
David Barber, the Queen's swan marker, who leads the rowers, sees himself as an educator. In a traditional Thames pleasure boat accompanying the rowers sits a group of local children, each bearing a white swan's feather. When the swans are found on the bank and laid ashore, the children stroke and carry the cygnets and learn about the river. "Some of these kids have never had an opportunity to get so close to wildlife," says Barber. "We are teaching them about nature, and you can see in the way their faces light up how fascinated they are."David Barber, the Queen's swan marker, who leads the rowers, sees himself as an educator. In a traditional Thames pleasure boat accompanying the rowers sits a group of local children, each bearing a white swan's feather. When the swans are found on the bank and laid ashore, the children stroke and carry the cygnets and learn about the river. "Some of these kids have never had an opportunity to get so close to wildlife," says Barber. "We are teaching them about nature, and you can see in the way their faces light up how fascinated they are."
The swan uppers are trained in handling their captives, and the process is remarkably gentle for a bird that in popular imagination can break a man's arm with one wing. (A myth, says Barber. "I've never seen it. The worst you get is a few scratches maybe.") This old-fashioned way of taking the birds is surprisingly effective – the call of "hooooold up" goes out from the lead boat when a swan is sighted, the other rowers quickly close in and within a few minutes the six boats have manoeuvred to surround the swans and use their oars to bar escape where needed. These boats sit low in the water, so the rowers are only a few inches above the swans they need to lift and they can get right next to the birds. The lack of engines means the swans are less alarmed. With at least 20 people at work in the six boats, even large broods can be easily lifted. Near Bourne End, in Buckinghamshire, on Tuesday they found a family of two swans and six cygnets – they lay calmly trussed while they were weighed, ringed and checked.The swan uppers are trained in handling their captives, and the process is remarkably gentle for a bird that in popular imagination can break a man's arm with one wing. (A myth, says Barber. "I've never seen it. The worst you get is a few scratches maybe.") This old-fashioned way of taking the birds is surprisingly effective – the call of "hooooold up" goes out from the lead boat when a swan is sighted, the other rowers quickly close in and within a few minutes the six boats have manoeuvred to surround the swans and use their oars to bar escape where needed. These boats sit low in the water, so the rowers are only a few inches above the swans they need to lift and they can get right next to the birds. The lack of engines means the swans are less alarmed. With at least 20 people at work in the six boats, even large broods can be easily lifted. Near Bourne End, in Buckinghamshire, on Tuesday they found a family of two swans and six cygnets – they lay calmly trussed while they were weighed, ringed and checked.
But just as important to the swan uppers as the science and the educational purpose is the tradition they are following. The men rowing – they are all men, successes of the Team GB women in Olympic rowing notwithstanding – are all in some way connected with the Thames, and have proved their rowing prowess. The ritual seems to function as a way of uniting workers of the upmarket upriver reaches of the Thames – Barber owns a boatyard at Cookham and Lee Wootten works at his family's boatyard nearby – with the grittier downriver, London side – Scott Newton is captain of the Woolwich ferry, Will Rockell works on landing stages and Dwan on his tug. Dwan takes pride in having won the Doggett's Coat and Badge – a rowing race that Thames watermen traditionally compete in at the age of 21, to prove their prowess – and says many of the others are also winners.But just as important to the swan uppers as the science and the educational purpose is the tradition they are following. The men rowing – they are all men, successes of the Team GB women in Olympic rowing notwithstanding – are all in some way connected with the Thames, and have proved their rowing prowess. The ritual seems to function as a way of uniting workers of the upmarket upriver reaches of the Thames – Barber owns a boatyard at Cookham and Lee Wootten works at his family's boatyard nearby – with the grittier downriver, London side – Scott Newton is captain of the Woolwich ferry, Will Rockell works on landing stages and Dwan on his tug. Dwan takes pride in having won the Doggett's Coat and Badge – a rowing race that Thames watermen traditionally compete in at the age of 21, to prove their prowess – and says many of the others are also winners.
Rockell, who has taken part for 19 years, says: "It's the tradition, that's why most of us do it. It's been going on for 800 years, and maybe in 800 years' time someone will be able to look up in a book and see my name. It's a privilege to do it." Newton, a 10-year veteran, adds: "You get a great sense of friendship among the crew. At the end of the day, your arms are aching, your back is aching, you've been busy all through the day."Rockell, who has taken part for 19 years, says: "It's the tradition, that's why most of us do it. It's been going on for 800 years, and maybe in 800 years' time someone will be able to look up in a book and see my name. It's a privilege to do it." Newton, a 10-year veteran, adds: "You get a great sense of friendship among the crew. At the end of the day, your arms are aching, your back is aching, you've been busy all through the day."
It's clear that this week-long tradition is also a social occasion, a grand day out for participants and onlookers. Accompanying the skiffs is a small flotilla of vintage Thames pleasure boats, most dating from the 1930s or before, lovingly restored. Their owners volunteer for the task of sailing alongside the rowing skiffs, ready to give them a tow when needed. When the crews stop for lunch and their evening meal, they are surrounded by well-wishers and members of the Vintners' and Dyers' companies. These City companies were granted rights over the swans some time before the 1500s, reputedly by Henry IV because he owed them money. (Fittingly, the Vintners are a jolly lot, supping pints at the Ferry Inn by Cookham Bridge on Tuesday as they wait to welcome and refresh the swan uppers at lunchtime, and gently chaffing any Dyers they can find, before following the boats upriver to repeat the fun at Marlow in the evening. They are celebrating the granting of a charter by the Crown on 15 July 1363, 650 years ago.) The support boat owners sleep aboard their vessels, but every night the swan uppers are bussed back to Cookham and out next morning to the next reach. Each landing point – from Sunbury to Abingdon, over the course of five days – is advertised on the Queen's website, so that anyone wanting to come and watch can do so.It's clear that this week-long tradition is also a social occasion, a grand day out for participants and onlookers. Accompanying the skiffs is a small flotilla of vintage Thames pleasure boats, most dating from the 1930s or before, lovingly restored. Their owners volunteer for the task of sailing alongside the rowing skiffs, ready to give them a tow when needed. When the crews stop for lunch and their evening meal, they are surrounded by well-wishers and members of the Vintners' and Dyers' companies. These City companies were granted rights over the swans some time before the 1500s, reputedly by Henry IV because he owed them money. (Fittingly, the Vintners are a jolly lot, supping pints at the Ferry Inn by Cookham Bridge on Tuesday as they wait to welcome and refresh the swan uppers at lunchtime, and gently chaffing any Dyers they can find, before following the boats upriver to repeat the fun at Marlow in the evening. They are celebrating the granting of a charter by the Crown on 15 July 1363, 650 years ago.) The support boat owners sleep aboard their vessels, but every night the swan uppers are bussed back to Cookham and out next morning to the next reach. Each landing point – from Sunbury to Abingdon, over the course of five days – is advertised on the Queen's website, so that anyone wanting to come and watch can do so.
On average, the uppers are finding more than 30 swans a day. They may not be capturing every bird, Prof Perrins concedes, but their survey gives a good indication of the health of the swan population and the effects of the various predations they face, as the figures are compared year on year.On average, the uppers are finding more than 30 swans a day. They may not be capturing every bird, Prof Perrins concedes, but their survey gives a good indication of the health of the swan population and the effects of the various predations they face, as the figures are compared year on year.
Next year, they will find out how many of the cygnets trussed up this week have survived the dogs, minks and air guns. An age-old tradition has found a valuable modern purpose.Next year, they will find out how many of the cygnets trussed up this week have survived the dogs, minks and air guns. An age-old tradition has found a valuable modern purpose.
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