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Peter Lehmann obituary Peter Lehmann obituary
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Peter Lehmann, who has died aged 82, was Australia's best-known winemaker, nicknamed the "baron of the Barossa" after the Barossa valley in South Australia, the hub of the country's winemaking industry and the headquarters and processing centre for many of its most significant producers.Peter Lehmann, who has died aged 82, was Australia's best-known winemaker, nicknamed the "baron of the Barossa" after the Barossa valley in South Australia, the hub of the country's winemaking industry and the headquarters and processing centre for many of its most significant producers.
The defining moment of Lehmann's life came in 1978 when, as winemaker at Saltram, he defied the winery's multinational owner, Dalgety, which had insisted that Lehmann renege on his undertaking to buy grapes from local growers. White wines were increasing in popularity and there was a glut of red grapes which was likely to get worse. Lehmann was concerned for the livelihoods of the growers, with whom he had developed close bonds over almost 20 years at Saltram.The defining moment of Lehmann's life came in 1978 when, as winemaker at Saltram, he defied the winery's multinational owner, Dalgety, which had insisted that Lehmann renege on his undertaking to buy grapes from local growers. White wines were increasing in popularity and there was a glut of red grapes which was likely to get worse. Lehmann was concerned for the livelihoods of the growers, with whom he had developed close bonds over almost 20 years at Saltram.
He raised the capital to buy the grapes, processed them at Saltram with the approval of the board, and sold the wine to other wineries in bulk. The Masterson winery, run by Lehmann's wife, Margaret, was established to handle this new business. With characteristic Lehmann wit, it took its name from Damon Runyon's gambler Sky Masterson, who was popularised in the musical Guys and Dolls.He raised the capital to buy the grapes, processed them at Saltram with the approval of the board, and sold the wine to other wineries in bulk. The Masterson winery, run by Lehmann's wife, Margaret, was established to handle this new business. With characteristic Lehmann wit, it took its name from Damon Runyon's gambler Sky Masterson, who was popularised in the musical Guys and Dolls.
The Lehmann project became even more of a gamble when Saltram was sold to the Seagram corporation the following year and the new owner refused Lehmann permission to use the winery facilities to process growers' fruit. Investors were found, another local winery was for sale: with hard work, generosity of spirit and a touch of luck, in 1982 one of the Barossa valley's best wineries, Peter Lehmann, was launched, and the livelihoods of many grape growers were saved.The Lehmann project became even more of a gamble when Saltram was sold to the Seagram corporation the following year and the new owner refused Lehmann permission to use the winery facilities to process growers' fruit. Investors were found, another local winery was for sale: with hard work, generosity of spirit and a touch of luck, in 1982 one of the Barossa valley's best wineries, Peter Lehmann, was launched, and the livelihoods of many grape growers were saved.
Over the following decades, rapid technological advances in the wine industry transformed the reputation of Australian wine worldwide and led to a surge in exports. Lehmann and the Barossa played their part in this remarkable growth. Thirty years after it was founded, the Lehmann winery now takes fruit from 140 Barossa growers, produces 750,000 cases a year and has a strong international presence.Over the following decades, rapid technological advances in the wine industry transformed the reputation of Australian wine worldwide and led to a surge in exports. Lehmann and the Barossa played their part in this remarkable growth. Thirty years after it was founded, the Lehmann winery now takes fruit from 140 Barossa growers, produces 750,000 cases a year and has a strong international presence.
One indelible image of Lehmann that will live long in the memory of the Barossa growers is of the great man at his station – the trusty weighbridge at the winery – during the vintage. From dawn to dusk he could be found, ready to greet the growers, weigh their grapes, and offer them a glass of wine and a slice of mettwurst.One indelible image of Lehmann that will live long in the memory of the Barossa growers is of the great man at his station – the trusty weighbridge at the winery – during the vintage. From dawn to dusk he could be found, ready to greet the growers, weigh their grapes, and offer them a glass of wine and a slice of mettwurst.
Lehmann was born in the small Barossa town of Angaston where his father, Franz, a fourth-generation Australian of German descent, was a Lutheran minister. The early death of his father in 1945 gave Lehmann the opportunity to leave school, which he had not enjoyed. He started work at the Yalumba winery in 1947 under Rudi Kronberger, who proved a tolerant and inspiring mentor. Lehmann made wine for Yalumba until he moved to Saltram as chief winemaker in 1959.Lehmann was born in the small Barossa town of Angaston where his father, Franz, a fourth-generation Australian of German descent, was a Lutheran minister. The early death of his father in 1945 gave Lehmann the opportunity to leave school, which he had not enjoyed. He started work at the Yalumba winery in 1947 under Rudi Kronberger, who proved a tolerant and inspiring mentor. Lehmann made wine for Yalumba until he moved to Saltram as chief winemaker in 1959.
A retrospective of the Saltram wines in 1999, to celebrate their 140th anniversary, showed how gracefully the Lehmann wines had aged. My notes dwelt on their exuberant ripe fruit flavours and soft fleshy texture: not bad for wines between 20 and 40 years of age. Lehmann grinned and quipped of the 1964 Saltram shiraz that it "needs time".A retrospective of the Saltram wines in 1999, to celebrate their 140th anniversary, showed how gracefully the Lehmann wines had aged. My notes dwelt on their exuberant ripe fruit flavours and soft fleshy texture: not bad for wines between 20 and 40 years of age. Lehmann grinned and quipped of the 1964 Saltram shiraz that it "needs time".
The 1980s were difficult times for the Barossa winemakers and their traditional reds but Lehmann understood the cyclical nature of viticulture and was prepared to work hard until the good times came again. With his trusty lieutenant Andrew Wigan, who had been with him since the Saltram days, Lehmann managed to win Australia's most prestigious red wine trophy, the Jimmy Watson, with the 1989 Stonewell shiraz. This led to a surge in demand for the winery's reds, and for the next two decades Barossa shiraz enjoyed unprecedented public adulation. Over the past decade, Wigan has led the Peter Lehmann team to produce world-class whites.The 1980s were difficult times for the Barossa winemakers and their traditional reds but Lehmann understood the cyclical nature of viticulture and was prepared to work hard until the good times came again. With his trusty lieutenant Andrew Wigan, who had been with him since the Saltram days, Lehmann managed to win Australia's most prestigious red wine trophy, the Jimmy Watson, with the 1989 Stonewell shiraz. This led to a surge in demand for the winery's reds, and for the next two decades Barossa shiraz enjoyed unprecedented public adulation. Over the past decade, Wigan has led the Peter Lehmann team to produce world-class whites.
In 1975, Lehmann was made a member of the Order of Australia. He is survived by Margaret, whom he married in 1970, and their sons, David and Philip; and two children, Doug and Libby, from his first marriage. A son, Bruce, predeceased him.In 1975, Lehmann was made a member of the Order of Australia. He is survived by Margaret, whom he married in 1970, and their sons, David and Philip; and two children, Doug and Libby, from his first marriage. A son, Bruce, predeceased him.
• Peter Leon Lehmann, winemaker, born 18 August 1930; died 28 June 2013• Peter Leon Lehmann, winemaker, born 18 August 1930; died 28 June 2013
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