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Bangladesh factory tragedy gives hope to leather workers Bangladesh factory tragedy gives hope to leather workers
(2 months later)
The gutters run blue and red, contaminated by chemicals; the air is acrid with fumes; the white midday sun bleaches the dirt of the busy thoroughfare. Mohammed Jalal, 42, is sitting under a ragged awning. He sips tea served scalding hot, despite the 45C temperature. Soon he will return to work in one of the 185 tanneries that dominate this choked, congested neighbourhood of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh.The gutters run blue and red, contaminated by chemicals; the air is acrid with fumes; the white midday sun bleaches the dirt of the busy thoroughfare. Mohammed Jalal, 42, is sitting under a ragged awning. He sips tea served scalding hot, despite the 45C temperature. Soon he will return to work in one of the 185 tanneries that dominate this choked, congested neighbourhood of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh.
"If there was any other job, I'd do it," Jalal says, shaking his head."If there was any other job, I'd do it," Jalal says, shaking his head.
Bangladesh has been under a spotlight since the deaths in April of 1,130 workers in the collapse of a factory in Dhaka, which produced cheap garments for western high street retailers. In the tragedy's aftermath, politicians in the chaotic south Asian state promised reforms and companies such as Primark, Matalan and Gap scrambled to repair battered reputations.Bangladesh has been under a spotlight since the deaths in April of 1,130 workers in the collapse of a factory in Dhaka, which produced cheap garments for western high street retailers. In the tragedy's aftermath, politicians in the chaotic south Asian state promised reforms and companies such as Primark, Matalan and Gap scrambled to repair battered reputations.
Many western firms have signed up to an agreement that legally binds them to source garments from factories in Bangladesh with safe working conditions and to contribute to the cost of improvements. Others are negotiating a separate accord.Many western firms have signed up to an agreement that legally binds them to source garments from factories in Bangladesh with safe working conditions and to contribute to the cost of improvements. Others are negotiating a separate accord.
But Bangladesh is also a major supplier of leather for shoes, handbags, belts, jackets and suitcases used in Britain, other European countries and south-east Asia. This booming trade – predicted to soon be worth more than $1bn annually but notorious for its harsh conditions and pollution – has received less attention. Almost all Bangladeshi leather is produced from local animal hides by about 15,000 labourers in the small Dhaka neighbourhood of Hazaribagh. A recent report from international campaign group Human Rights Watch (HRW) described "systemic human rights violations" in the industry. They also warn over a catastrophic environmental impact as tanneries discharge huge quantities of toxic waste into the Buriganga river, which flows through Dhaka.But Bangladesh is also a major supplier of leather for shoes, handbags, belts, jackets and suitcases used in Britain, other European countries and south-east Asia. This booming trade – predicted to soon be worth more than $1bn annually but notorious for its harsh conditions and pollution – has received less attention. Almost all Bangladeshi leather is produced from local animal hides by about 15,000 labourers in the small Dhaka neighbourhood of Hazaribagh. A recent report from international campaign group Human Rights Watch (HRW) described "systemic human rights violations" in the industry. They also warn over a catastrophic environmental impact as tanneries discharge huge quantities of toxic waste into the Buriganga river, which flows through Dhaka.
Residents and workers in Hazaribagh are hoping they may see some benefits from the global outrage that followed the Rana Plaza factory collapse.Residents and workers in Hazaribagh are hoping they may see some benefits from the global outrage that followed the Rana Plaza factory collapse.
"We know what happened to those poor people and have heard that the whole world was angry. Maybe this can help us too," said Jalal, who has worked in the tanneries for 30 years."We know what happened to those poor people and have heard that the whole world was angry. Maybe this can help us too," said Jalal, who has worked in the tanneries for 30 years.
European buyers of leather from Bangladesh and diplomats from European countries, have recently sought details of conditions in the tanneries from local authorities and business organisations.European buyers of leather from Bangladesh and diplomats from European countries, have recently sought details of conditions in the tanneries from local authorities and business organisations.
"We have been contacted by a number of firms, via the concerned ministry, looking to be reassured," said Mohammed Abdul Hai, head of the Bangladesh Tanners Association. "We were able to tell them that any problems here will soon be resolved.""We have been contacted by a number of firms, via the concerned ministry, looking to be reassured," said Mohammed Abdul Hai, head of the Bangladesh Tanners Association. "We were able to tell them that any problems here will soon be resolved."
Hai said he had allayed European concern by reassuring them that the tanneries would move to a new purpose-built complex on the outskirts of the city next year. The zone will be equipped with a waste treatment plant and conditions for workers will be hugely improved.Hai said he had allayed European concern by reassuring them that the tanneries would move to a new purpose-built complex on the outskirts of the city next year. The zone will be equipped with a waste treatment plant and conditions for workers will be hugely improved.
"We [told them] that they could forget the [current] conditions in Hazaribagh because soon we are going to be based at the new site and there production will be based on international norms. We hope that within five years we will be a model industry in Bangladesh," he said."We [told them] that they could forget the [current] conditions in Hazaribagh because soon we are going to be based at the new site and there production will be based on international norms. We hope that within five years we will be a model industry in Bangladesh," he said.
Belal Hossain, president of Bangladesh Finished Leather, Leather Goods & Footwear Exporters Association, also insisted that any concerns about environmental compliance in the tanneries "will be resolved in short time".Belal Hossain, president of Bangladesh Finished Leather, Leather Goods & Footwear Exporters Association, also insisted that any concerns about environmental compliance in the tanneries "will be resolved in short time".
But, in spite of a series of court rulings since 2001 requiring the government to move the tanneries or shut them down, the expensive relocation scheme has been repeatedly delayed. There is little sign that the land allocated for the new factories is being prepared.But, in spite of a series of court rulings since 2001 requiring the government to move the tanneries or shut them down, the expensive relocation scheme has been repeatedly delayed. There is little sign that the land allocated for the new factories is being prepared.
Activists and workers express doubt that after decades of delays the move will happen soon.Activists and workers express doubt that after decades of delays the move will happen soon.
"The tanneries are horrible. I worry it may be a lost cause. The courts have ordered relocation again and again but each successive government had demanded more time," said Syeda Rizwana Hasan, chief executive of the Bangladesh Environmental Lawyers Association."The tanneries are horrible. I worry it may be a lost cause. The courts have ordered relocation again and again but each successive government had demanded more time," said Syeda Rizwana Hasan, chief executive of the Bangladesh Environmental Lawyers Association.
Two main concerns are the health of workers and child labour. Conditions vary but in several factories visited by the Guardian, men could be seen working with minimal or no protection from the range of corrosive chemicals used in the tanning process. Some wore little more than rubber gloves and plastic sheets wrapped around their waists while working with acids and bleach. While some had been equipped with cheap rubber boots, none was wearing a face mask or eye protection. The heat in many tanneries is intense. In some, saline solution is distributed to workers to prevent dehydration. Teenagers were also present in several tanneries, in breach of the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, which prohibits hazardous work for under-18s.Two main concerns are the health of workers and child labour. Conditions vary but in several factories visited by the Guardian, men could be seen working with minimal or no protection from the range of corrosive chemicals used in the tanning process. Some wore little more than rubber gloves and plastic sheets wrapped around their waists while working with acids and bleach. While some had been equipped with cheap rubber boots, none was wearing a face mask or eye protection. The heat in many tanneries is intense. In some, saline solution is distributed to workers to prevent dehydration. Teenagers were also present in several tanneries, in breach of the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, which prohibits hazardous work for under-18s.
In the MB Tannery, one 15-year-old said he was paid 3,500 taka (£30) a month to cut and shape leather six, or sometimes seven, days a week. One boy, who said he was 13, said he was paid 4,000 taka for a 12-hour shift as a general helper.In the MB Tannery, one 15-year-old said he was paid 3,500 taka (£30) a month to cut and shape leather six, or sometimes seven, days a week. One boy, who said he was 13, said he was paid 4,000 taka for a 12-hour shift as a general helper.
Habibur Rahman, the managing director of the tannery, said he employed about 125 labourers "but no children".Habibur Rahman, the managing director of the tannery, said he employed about 125 labourers "but no children".
"It's heavy duty work. It's not suitable for children," he said. Local law considers a child to be under 14 years old and says under-18s can do light work for restricted periods."It's heavy duty work. It's not suitable for children," he said. Local law considers a child to be under 14 years old and says under-18s can do light work for restricted periods.
Most of the workers in Hazaribagh are paid monthly wages of between 6,000 taka to 25,000 taka for eight to 14-hour days, six or even seven days a week. Such salaries mean labour costs in Bangladesh can be anything up to a half of those in China, the major competitor, and are one reason for the boom in leather production in the south Asian state.Most of the workers in Hazaribagh are paid monthly wages of between 6,000 taka to 25,000 taka for eight to 14-hour days, six or even seven days a week. Such salaries mean labour costs in Bangladesh can be anything up to a half of those in China, the major competitor, and are one reason for the boom in leather production in the south Asian state.
The long hours among machinery and toxic chemicals – some workers sleep in the factories – take their toll. Most complain of eye, respiratory, cardiac and skin problems, as well as frequent accidents.The long hours among machinery and toxic chemicals – some workers sleep in the factories – take their toll. Most complain of eye, respiratory, cardiac and skin problems, as well as frequent accidents.
Mohammed Rintu, who pulls heavily loaded carts in the tanneries, listed the ailments of long-term tannery workers. "We get eye problems from the lime, breathing trouble, your heart doesn't go right. When you mix the sodium [metabisulphite] and ammonium [chloride] with the water, the gas gets into your lungs and face," Rintu, 29, said. Hossain, said accidents were "not frequent" but Abdul Malek, general secretary of the Tannery Workers' Union disagreed.Mohammed Rintu, who pulls heavily loaded carts in the tanneries, listed the ailments of long-term tannery workers. "We get eye problems from the lime, breathing trouble, your heart doesn't go right. When you mix the sodium [metabisulphite] and ammonium [chloride] with the water, the gas gets into your lungs and face," Rintu, 29, said. Hossain, said accidents were "not frequent" but Abdul Malek, general secretary of the Tannery Workers' Union disagreed.
"There is no routine for such accidents. There can be three accidents in a day and none on another day. I disagree with the owners that such accidents happen once in two or three years," Malek said."There is no routine for such accidents. There can be three accidents in a day and none on another day. I disagree with the owners that such accidents happen once in two or three years," Malek said.
It is not just the workers who suffer. The tanneries are flanked by slums and crowded residential streets with schools, mosques and shops. Space is so limited that some homes are built on stilts over stinking waste outflows.It is not just the workers who suffer. The tanneries are flanked by slums and crowded residential streets with schools, mosques and shops. Space is so limited that some homes are built on stilts over stinking waste outflows.
"It's a terrible place for kids. They cough, vomit because of the stench. There are lots of skin problems and respiratory issues for people of all ages," said Hamida Akhter, a healthworker and mother of two. She is sceptical of the claims of officials and industry representatives that the tanneries will be relocated soon."It's a terrible place for kids. They cough, vomit because of the stench. There are lots of skin problems and respiratory issues for people of all ages," said Hamida Akhter, a healthworker and mother of two. She is sceptical of the claims of officials and industry representatives that the tanneries will be relocated soon.
"They've been saying they will soon be gone for 13 years and it has not happened. I don't think much is likely to change round here soon," Akhter, 29, said."They've been saying they will soon be gone for 13 years and it has not happened. I don't think much is likely to change round here soon," Akhter, 29, said.
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