This article is from the source 'guardian' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jun/21/jean-louis-scherrer

The article has changed 2 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Version 0 Version 1
Jean-Louis Scherrer obituary Jean-Louis Scherrer obituary
(3 months later)
The career of Jean-Louis Scherrer, who has died aged 78, spanned more than 30 years, during which he made his name as one of the good, if not great, French couturiers in the grand Parisian style. Less refined than Yves Saint Laurent, lacking Karl Lagerfeld's flair and originality, Scherrer nevertheless attracted a following that included fashion luminaries such as Sophia Loren and Jackie Kennedy and high-profile political wives including Anne-Aymone Giscard d'Estaing. But what ensured Scherrer's place in the footnotes of the history of couture was not so much his firm, more the manner of his departing it.The career of Jean-Louis Scherrer, who has died aged 78, spanned more than 30 years, during which he made his name as one of the good, if not great, French couturiers in the grand Parisian style. Less refined than Yves Saint Laurent, lacking Karl Lagerfeld's flair and originality, Scherrer nevertheless attracted a following that included fashion luminaries such as Sophia Loren and Jackie Kennedy and high-profile political wives including Anne-Aymone Giscard d'Estaing. But what ensured Scherrer's place in the footnotes of the history of couture was not so much his firm, more the manner of his departing it.
In 1992, Scherrer became the first couturier to be evicted from his own fashion house. His dismissal, which he described as worse than the sacking of a street cleaner because "even a street sweeper gets a warning", became a cause célèbre in Paris, with Pierre Bergé, Marc Bohan and various other key figures in French fashion publicly denouncing Scherrer's partners, Hermès and Ilona Gestion, for what had happened. But there was little that anyone could do. Scherrer had sold out to his partners, retaining only a 10% stake for himself and giving control to them. When they decided that losses under Scherrer could not be sustained and a new designer was required, he was powerless.In 1992, Scherrer became the first couturier to be evicted from his own fashion house. His dismissal, which he described as worse than the sacking of a street cleaner because "even a street sweeper gets a warning", became a cause célèbre in Paris, with Pierre Bergé, Marc Bohan and various other key figures in French fashion publicly denouncing Scherrer's partners, Hermès and Ilona Gestion, for what had happened. But there was little that anyone could do. Scherrer had sold out to his partners, retaining only a 10% stake for himself and giving control to them. When they decided that losses under Scherrer could not be sustained and a new designer was required, he was powerless.
It was not an entirely fair or objective assessment. Scherrer's opulent clothes for very wealthy women could never, by their nature, command a huge following, but it was big enough, until two events completely beyond his control changed the situation. Many of Scherrer's greatest fans were the petrol princesses who were prepared to pay the prices made inevitable by all the gold embroidery, hand beading and rich passementerie that were Scherrer's trademark. At a stroke, the Gulf war killed off this lucrative market.It was not an entirely fair or objective assessment. Scherrer's opulent clothes for very wealthy women could never, by their nature, command a huge following, but it was big enough, until two events completely beyond his control changed the situation. Many of Scherrer's greatest fans were the petrol princesses who were prepared to pay the prices made inevitable by all the gold embroidery, hand beading and rich passementerie that were Scherrer's trademark. At a stroke, the Gulf war killed off this lucrative market.
Close on its heels came a recession which, although it affected all luxury trades, seemed to bite especially deeply at the already weakened house of Scherrer. The accounts looked grim as sales of luxury clothing dwindled. Quarrels over how to overcome the difficulties reached such a point that Scherrer walked into his office one Monday morning and found a letter of dismissal on his desk. It was effectively the end of his career as a fashion designer, but it made him a legend within Paris couture. His downfall was a salutary warning of the dangers of putting too many eggs in one basket, of not keeping control of one's business and, according to some, of designer hubris.Close on its heels came a recession which, although it affected all luxury trades, seemed to bite especially deeply at the already weakened house of Scherrer. The accounts looked grim as sales of luxury clothing dwindled. Quarrels over how to overcome the difficulties reached such a point that Scherrer walked into his office one Monday morning and found a letter of dismissal on his desk. It was effectively the end of his career as a fashion designer, but it made him a legend within Paris couture. His downfall was a salutary warning of the dangers of putting too many eggs in one basket, of not keeping control of one's business and, according to some, of designer hubris.
Scherrer was born in Paris, the son of a psychiatrist. He was training as a dancer at the Conservatoire when a back injury in 1956 brought his career abruptly to an end. During three months' recuperation, he began to sketch fashions. His drawings were shown to Christian Dior and he was employed as an assistant at Dior, along with Yves Saint Laurent.Scherrer was born in Paris, the son of a psychiatrist. He was training as a dancer at the Conservatoire when a back injury in 1956 brought his career abruptly to an end. During three months' recuperation, he began to sketch fashions. His drawings were shown to Christian Dior and he was employed as an assistant at Dior, along with Yves Saint Laurent.
When Dior died in 1957, Saint Laurent took over and Scherrer left to found his own house, backed by the French property millionaire Jacques Chabrol. He was taken up by the American retailer Bergdorf Goodman and soon was selling to more than 100 US stores. Before long, he was seen as one of the frontrunners of Paris fashion.When Dior died in 1957, Saint Laurent took over and Scherrer left to found his own house, backed by the French property millionaire Jacques Chabrol. He was taken up by the American retailer Bergdorf Goodman and soon was selling to more than 100 US stores. Before long, he was seen as one of the frontrunners of Paris fashion.
In the 80s, Scherrer's rich and extravagant clothes serviced a taste for luxury dressing that steadily grew during the decade. But perhaps his moment had already passed by the time he lost his firm. Certainly, many people in Paris felt that his powers were waning and that the dismissal – crude and abrupt as it may have been – could be seen as a kindness to his reputation in the end.In the 80s, Scherrer's rich and extravagant clothes serviced a taste for luxury dressing that steadily grew during the decade. But perhaps his moment had already passed by the time he lost his firm. Certainly, many people in Paris felt that his powers were waning and that the dismissal – crude and abrupt as it may have been – could be seen as a kindness to his reputation in the end.
Although the fashion house continued for a further 16 years without him, with Erik Mortensen, then Stéphane Rolland, as head designer, in 2008 its doors closed for good. The following year, Scherrer was appointed an officer of the Légion d'Honneur.Although the fashion house continued for a further 16 years without him, with Erik Mortensen, then Stéphane Rolland, as head designer, in 2008 its doors closed for good. The following year, Scherrer was appointed an officer of the Légion d'Honneur.
He was divorced and is survived by two daughters, Laetitia, a former model, and Leonor, who recently launched Leonor Scherrer Funeral Couture.He was divorced and is survived by two daughters, Laetitia, a former model, and Leonor, who recently launched Leonor Scherrer Funeral Couture.
• Jean-Louis Scherrer, couturier, born 19 February 1935; died 20 June 2013• Jean-Louis Scherrer, couturier, born 19 February 1935; died 20 June 2013
Our editors' picks for the day's top news and commentary delivered to your inbox each morning.