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Strawberry Shortcake Forever Strawberry Shortcake Forever
(3 days later)
Once, a friend asked me to bake a strawberry shortcake for his birthday party.Once, a friend asked me to bake a strawberry shortcake for his birthday party.
I thought that was an odd request. So I asked: One large shortcake, or should everyone at the party get their own? I thought that was an odd request. So I asked: One large shortcake, or should everyone at the party get her own?
He thought that was an odd question. So he asked: You mean one big cake or cupcakes?He thought that was an odd question. So he asked: You mean one big cake or cupcakes?
Eventually we sorted it out: we were talking about two distinct confections, both called strawberry shortcake, and both smothered with strawberries and whipped cream. The one in my head was based on an individual-size baking powder biscuit, while he envisioned a sponge layer cake. Historically in America, nearly any small cake or pastry covered with strawberries and cream can qualify as a shortcake; these are the two main variations.Eventually we sorted it out: we were talking about two distinct confections, both called strawberry shortcake, and both smothered with strawberries and whipped cream. The one in my head was based on an individual-size baking powder biscuit, while he envisioned a sponge layer cake. Historically in America, nearly any small cake or pastry covered with strawberries and cream can qualify as a shortcake; these are the two main variations.
But by the time my friend and I had argued over which kind was the true and superior strawberry shortcake, the urge was gone. I baked him a Black Forest cake instead.But by the time my friend and I had argued over which kind was the true and superior strawberry shortcake, the urge was gone. I baked him a Black Forest cake instead.
The thing was, I had always associated the layer-cake version of strawberry shortcake with the dessert cases in old-time diners. Those cakes were gloppy, often stale and rarely made with real whipped cream or ripe berries. But that doesn’t have to be the case. A vanilla-scented, buttery, freshly made spongecake doused with good berries and a mountain of cream can be a marvelous dessert.The thing was, I had always associated the layer-cake version of strawberry shortcake with the dessert cases in old-time diners. Those cakes were gloppy, often stale and rarely made with real whipped cream or ripe berries. But that doesn’t have to be the case. A vanilla-scented, buttery, freshly made spongecake doused with good berries and a mountain of cream can be a marvelous dessert.
The ripeness and sweetness of the berries is essential for any good strawberry shortcake, so if you can taste before you buy, please do. And if you have the choice between mushy, homely but juicy berries, pick those over firm, pretty and less-juicy ones. You want the berries to break down a little and release their nectar, which softer berries will happily do if you macerate them in a little sugar.The ripeness and sweetness of the berries is essential for any good strawberry shortcake, so if you can taste before you buy, please do. And if you have the choice between mushy, homely but juicy berries, pick those over firm, pretty and less-juicy ones. You want the berries to break down a little and release their nectar, which softer berries will happily do if you macerate them in a little sugar.
Then there is the cake itself. Although you could use a fine-grained poundcake for the layers, a coarsegrained spongecake can better absorb all those sweet berry juices without falling apart.Then there is the cake itself. Although you could use a fine-grained poundcake for the layers, a coarsegrained spongecake can better absorb all those sweet berry juices without falling apart.
In this recipe, I also brush the cake with a lemon-pepper syrup; it adds moisture and a spicy-tart complexity. If you’d rather have a purer berry flavor, leave the lemon and pepper out and just brush plain sugar syrup onto the cake. Or flavor the syrup with brandy, tequila, vanilla, cinnamon or whatever else you think would taste good with berries.In this recipe, I also brush the cake with a lemon-pepper syrup; it adds moisture and a spicy-tart complexity. If you’d rather have a purer berry flavor, leave the lemon and pepper out and just brush plain sugar syrup onto the cake. Or flavor the syrup with brandy, tequila, vanilla, cinnamon or whatever else you think would taste good with berries.
Then top the cake with whipped cream and serve it forth. It’s good for any summer gathering, especially, as my friend knew, a birthday party.Then top the cake with whipped cream and serve it forth. It’s good for any summer gathering, especially, as my friend knew, a birthday party.