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Mogadishu culture shock for diaspora Somalis | Mogadishu culture shock for diaspora Somalis |
(about 3 hours later) | |
The accents here in Somalia's capital can be hard to place these days. | The accents here in Somalia's capital can be hard to place these days. |
I'm sitting in a grimy corner of Villa Somalia - the once rather grand government building in the centre of Mogadishu - waiting to talk to a minister. | I'm sitting in a grimy corner of Villa Somalia - the once rather grand government building in the centre of Mogadishu - waiting to talk to a minister. |
"Would you like some tea?" | "Would you like some tea?" |
It is the minister's aide - Faiza Hassan - a cheerful woman in her mid twenties. | It is the minister's aide - Faiza Hassan - a cheerful woman in her mid twenties. |
At first I thought she might be from Birmingham. She laughed at that. | At first I thought she might be from Birmingham. She laughed at that. |
No, her accent is Swedish, with a little Dutch, and some Liverpuddlian thrown in. | No, her accent is Swedish, with a little Dutch, and some Liverpuddlian thrown in. |
"I've been back for four months now," she says. "This city takes some getting used to." | "I've been back for four months now," she says. "This city takes some getting used to." |
It certainly does. | It certainly does. |
After two decades of anarchy and misery, Mogadishu is enjoying something of a renaissance. | After two decades of anarchy and misery, Mogadishu is enjoying something of a renaissance. |
The spectacular ruins are being patched up. Hotels are being built. There are even streetlights in some places. | The spectacular ruins are being patched up. Hotels are being built. There are even streetlights in some places. |
And everywhere, you hear the accents: Texan, Geordie, Minnesotan, south London, Scandinavian. | And everywhere, you hear the accents: Texan, Geordie, Minnesotan, south London, Scandinavian. |
Somalia's far-flung diaspora is coming back - in big numbers - to visit, to help out, to make money, and to find out if this renaissance has any chance of lasting. | Somalia's far-flung diaspora is coming back - in big numbers - to visit, to help out, to make money, and to find out if this renaissance has any chance of lasting. |
The jury is still out on that one. | The jury is still out on that one. |
'At a crossroads' | 'At a crossroads' |
Arriving at Mogadishu's beachside international airport, the first thing I noticed was that the wreckage of an old plane crash had finally been cleared from beside the runway. | Arriving at Mogadishu's beachside international airport, the first thing I noticed was that the wreckage of an old plane crash had finally been cleared from beside the runway. |
The second thing I learned was that a massive car bomb had just exploded up the road, killing or injuring dozens of people. | The second thing I learned was that a massive car bomb had just exploded up the road, killing or injuring dozens of people. |
"We're at a crossroads," says Ms Hassan, a few days later. "But I don't know which way it'll go." | "We're at a crossroads," says Ms Hassan, a few days later. "But I don't know which way it'll go." |
She left her husband back in the UK to come here to help at the education ministry. | She left her husband back in the UK to come here to help at the education ministry. |
She has a return plane ticket, a Spartan hotel room and no salary. | She has a return plane ticket, a Spartan hotel room and no salary. |
The plan is to get a million children back to school this year. But the ministry is starting from scratch. | The plan is to get a million children back to school this year. But the ministry is starting from scratch. |
And Ms Hassan, who left Somalia at the age of two, is wrestling with the culture shock. | And Ms Hassan, who left Somalia at the age of two, is wrestling with the culture shock. |
Those who stayed behind seem to lack the drive and initiative that she picked up abroad. | Those who stayed behind seem to lack the drive and initiative that she picked up abroad. |
"Without the skills," she sighs, "we'll still be stuck here in 100 years' time. People have got used to this way of life." | "Without the skills," she sighs, "we'll still be stuck here in 100 years' time. People have got used to this way of life." |
Across town, 29-year-old Mohammed Yahye is trying to shake off his homesickness with a can of Red Bull - it reminds him of his life back in Wembley. | Across town, 29-year-old Mohammed Yahye is trying to shake off his homesickness with a can of Red Bull - it reminds him of his life back in Wembley. |
"I'm a fish out of water here," he says with a smile. | "I'm a fish out of water here," he says with a smile. |
I first met Mr Yahye last year - soon after he had flown in from London, determined to do his bit to rebuild Mogadishu. | I first met Mr Yahye last year - soon after he had flown in from London, determined to do his bit to rebuild Mogadishu. |
He has been working for a charity that helps young people struggling to find jobs. Right now, he is organising a hugely popular televised talent competition, Idols - Somali-style. | He has been working for a charity that helps young people struggling to find jobs. Right now, he is organising a hugely popular televised talent competition, Idols - Somali-style. |
"People think I'm rude," he says. "Aggressive. It's a cultural thing. | "People think I'm rude," he says. "Aggressive. It's a cultural thing. |
"I'm just too British. In Somalia you have to be subtler, more apologetic in the way you talk. | "I'm just too British. In Somalia you have to be subtler, more apologetic in the way you talk. |
"But at least I get things done." | "But at least I get things done." |
Mr Yahye works and sleeps in the charity's guarded compound. | Mr Yahye works and sleeps in the charity's guarded compound. |
One of the few times he went out, he got caught up in a gunfight and a bullet hit the wall just above his head. | |
"Anything can happen here," he shrugs. | "Anything can happen here," he shrugs. |
"The Islamist militants - al-Shabab - are getting smart. You get the sense the government is lagging way behind. | "The Islamist militants - al-Shabab - are getting smart. You get the sense the government is lagging way behind. |
"And the corruption here is horrendous. | "And the corruption here is horrendous. |
"But I've made a commitment to stay, and I'd like to fulfil it, if I can." | "But I've made a commitment to stay, and I'd like to fulfil it, if I can." |
'Please visit' | 'Please visit' |
Plenty of troubled countries have wrestled with the tensions and opportunities presented by a big, energetic diaspora, anxious to help out and sometimes treading on local people's toes. | Plenty of troubled countries have wrestled with the tensions and opportunities presented by a big, energetic diaspora, anxious to help out and sometimes treading on local people's toes. |
But I cannot think of anywhere that has seen such a rapid influx of talent and determination. | But I cannot think of anywhere that has seen such a rapid influx of talent and determination. |
There is Abukar Dahir, a 25-year-old banker, who is now helping to rebuild Somalia's Central Bank: Wrestling with the complexities of a currency swelled by counterfeit notes - that everyone accepts; and trying to rewire an isolated country into global financial networks. | There is Abukar Dahir, a 25-year-old banker, who is now helping to rebuild Somalia's Central Bank: Wrestling with the complexities of a currency swelled by counterfeit notes - that everyone accepts; and trying to rewire an isolated country into global financial networks. |
And there is Martello, an estate agent from Essex in the UK, who has already started clearing ground for a new development on the beach just north of Mogadishu. | And there is Martello, an estate agent from Essex in the UK, who has already started clearing ground for a new development on the beach just north of Mogadishu. |
He has even brought his 13-year-old son, Abukar, who emailed me a copy of the letter he wrote to his old teacher back in the UK. | He has even brought his 13-year-old son, Abukar, who emailed me a copy of the letter he wrote to his old teacher back in the UK. |
"Dear Ms Raffee," he writes. "Please visit Somalia. It is much better now. There is no street fighting. I play football with my new friends and go to school from Saturday to Wednesday." | "Dear Ms Raffee," he writes. "Please visit Somalia. It is much better now. There is no street fighting. I play football with my new friends and go to school from Saturday to Wednesday." |
"Come and visit us to see the beaches and education system. My dad will provide you with accommodation - and security." | "Come and visit us to see the beaches and education system. My dad will provide you with accommodation - and security." |
A week later, Ms Hassan, the minister's aide, emails me from England. | A week later, Ms Hassan, the minister's aide, emails me from England. |
"I really needed this holiday," she writes. | "I really needed this holiday," she writes. |
During her absence there was a mortar attack on Villa Somalia. No-one was injured. | During her absence there was a mortar attack on Villa Somalia. No-one was injured. |
Ms Hassan will be back in Mogadishu soon. | Ms Hassan will be back in Mogadishu soon. |
"But I have no social life," she says. "I don't think I could ever settle down there now." | "But I have no social life," she says. "I don't think I could ever settle down there now." |
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