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A Fresh Approach to Soft-Shell Crabs | A Fresh Approach to Soft-Shell Crabs |
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I once worked for an old-school chef who claimed that everything sold better with the name “amandine” (or “almondine” as it was called, incorrectly, on the menu). | I once worked for an old-school chef who claimed that everything sold better with the name “amandine” (or “almondine” as it was called, incorrectly, on the menu). |
And it’s true. With many fish dishes, it’s hard to go wrong with a sauce of browned butter, lemon and some kind of toasted nut — almonds, hazelnuts or pecans. Many a trout, sole or halibut steak has been enhanced in this crowd-pleasing way. Though it may seem trite, pedestrian or downright old-fashioned, when it’s executed well, it can be awfully good. | And it’s true. With many fish dishes, it’s hard to go wrong with a sauce of browned butter, lemon and some kind of toasted nut — almonds, hazelnuts or pecans. Many a trout, sole or halibut steak has been enhanced in this crowd-pleasing way. Though it may seem trite, pedestrian or downright old-fashioned, when it’s executed well, it can be awfully good. |
This time of year, with Chesapeake soft-shell crabs in season, perhaps that’s just the method to choose. Soft-shell fanatics would disagree. No sauce, some say, only lemon. One camp wants Old Bay seasoning (not me), while others insist there must be Tabasco. | |
Well, to each his or her own. I’m not that dogmatic. I have eaten soft-shell crabs just about every way imaginable: pan-fried, deep-fried, tempura-battered and grilled. I’ve had them on a bun, on top of spaghetti aglio e olio (last night, in fact), even in gumbo. | Well, to each his or her own. I’m not that dogmatic. I have eaten soft-shell crabs just about every way imaginable: pan-fried, deep-fried, tempura-battered and grilled. I’ve had them on a bun, on top of spaghetti aglio e olio (last night, in fact), even in gumbo. |
The most important thing with soft-shell crabs, of course, is that they be utterly spanking fresh and lively, still wiggling if possible. You must buy them the day you plan to eat them, preferably from a reliable fish merchant who received them that morning. They begin to deteriorate rapidly, so it’s important to keep them on ice, because there’s nothing worse than a crab that’s gone off. O.K., perhaps there are worse things, but if you can’t get perfectly fresh soft-shells, it’s better to buy frozen or forgo them altogether. | The most important thing with soft-shell crabs, of course, is that they be utterly spanking fresh and lively, still wiggling if possible. You must buy them the day you plan to eat them, preferably from a reliable fish merchant who received them that morning. They begin to deteriorate rapidly, so it’s important to keep them on ice, because there’s nothing worse than a crab that’s gone off. O.K., perhaps there are worse things, but if you can’t get perfectly fresh soft-shells, it’s better to buy frozen or forgo them altogether. |
For the sweet first crabs of the season, I like to keep it quite simple, searing them quickly in a cast-iron pan, with butter, salt and pepper. After a few rounds of such purity, I usually think it’s time to branch out a bit and introduce other flavors. | For the sweet first crabs of the season, I like to keep it quite simple, searing them quickly in a cast-iron pan, with butter, salt and pepper. After a few rounds of such purity, I usually think it’s time to branch out a bit and introduce other flavors. |
The other day, from out of the past, the aroma of buttery toasted almonds seemed to waft through my mind, along with lots of parsley and lemon. I nearly succumbed, but the memory somehow inspired a slight twist. How about preserved lemon instead of regular lemon, and why not use chopped cilantro, too? | The other day, from out of the past, the aroma of buttery toasted almonds seemed to waft through my mind, along with lots of parsley and lemon. I nearly succumbed, but the memory somehow inspired a slight twist. How about preserved lemon instead of regular lemon, and why not use chopped cilantro, too? |
With pinches of cumin, coriander and cayenne, my soft-shells were now acquiring quite a different profile, not very Yankee at all, but there was no turning back. |
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