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A Fresh Approach to Soft-Shell Crabs A Fresh Approach to Soft-Shell Crabs
(3 days later)
I once worked for an old-school chef who claimed that everything sold better with the name “amandine” (or “almondine” as it was called, incorrectly, on the menu).I once worked for an old-school chef who claimed that everything sold better with the name “amandine” (or “almondine” as it was called, incorrectly, on the menu).
And it’s true. With many fish dishes, it’s hard to go wrong with a sauce of browned butter, lemon and some kind of toasted nut — almonds, hazelnuts or pecans. Many a trout, sole or halibut steak has been enhanced in this crowd-pleasing way. Though it may seem trite, pedestrian or downright old-fashioned, when it’s executed well, it can be awfully good.And it’s true. With many fish dishes, it’s hard to go wrong with a sauce of browned butter, lemon and some kind of toasted nut — almonds, hazelnuts or pecans. Many a trout, sole or halibut steak has been enhanced in this crowd-pleasing way. Though it may seem trite, pedestrian or downright old-fashioned, when it’s executed well, it can be awfully good.
This time of year, with Chesapeake soft-shell crabs in season, perhaps that’s just the method to choose. Soft-shell fanatics would disagree. No sauce, some say, only lemon. One camp wants Old Bay seasoning (not me), while others insist there must Tabasco. This time of year, with Chesapeake soft-shell crabs in season, perhaps that’s just the method to choose. Soft-shell fanatics would disagree. No sauce, some say, only lemon. One camp wants Old Bay seasoning (not me), while others insist there must be Tabasco.
Well, to each his or her own. I’m not that dogmatic. I have eaten soft-shell crabs just about every way imaginable: pan-fried, deep-fried, tempura-battered and grilled. I’ve had them on a bun, on top of spaghetti aglio e olio (last night, in fact), even in gumbo.Well, to each his or her own. I’m not that dogmatic. I have eaten soft-shell crabs just about every way imaginable: pan-fried, deep-fried, tempura-battered and grilled. I’ve had them on a bun, on top of spaghetti aglio e olio (last night, in fact), even in gumbo.
The most important thing with soft-shell crabs, of course, is that they be utterly spanking fresh and lively, still wiggling if possible. You must buy them the day you plan to eat them, preferably from a reliable fish merchant who received them that morning. They begin to deteriorate rapidly, so it’s important to keep them on ice, because there’s nothing worse than a crab that’s gone off. O.K., perhaps there are worse things, but if you can’t get perfectly fresh soft-shells, it’s better to buy frozen or forgo them altogether.The most important thing with soft-shell crabs, of course, is that they be utterly spanking fresh and lively, still wiggling if possible. You must buy them the day you plan to eat them, preferably from a reliable fish merchant who received them that morning. They begin to deteriorate rapidly, so it’s important to keep them on ice, because there’s nothing worse than a crab that’s gone off. O.K., perhaps there are worse things, but if you can’t get perfectly fresh soft-shells, it’s better to buy frozen or forgo them altogether.
For the sweet first crabs of the season, I like to keep it quite simple, searing them quickly in a cast-iron pan, with butter, salt and pepper. After a few rounds of such purity, I usually think it’s time to branch out a bit and introduce other flavors.For the sweet first crabs of the season, I like to keep it quite simple, searing them quickly in a cast-iron pan, with butter, salt and pepper. After a few rounds of such purity, I usually think it’s time to branch out a bit and introduce other flavors.
The other day, from out of the past, the aroma of buttery toasted almonds seemed to waft through my mind, along with lots of parsley and lemon. I nearly succumbed, but the memory somehow inspired a slight twist. How about preserved lemon instead of regular lemon, and why not use chopped cilantro, too?The other day, from out of the past, the aroma of buttery toasted almonds seemed to waft through my mind, along with lots of parsley and lemon. I nearly succumbed, but the memory somehow inspired a slight twist. How about preserved lemon instead of regular lemon, and why not use chopped cilantro, too?
With pinches of cumin, coriander and cayenne, my soft-shells were now acquiring quite a different profile, not very Yankee at all. But there was no turning back. With pinches of cumin, coriander and cayenne, my soft-shells were now acquiring quite a different profile, not very Yankee at all, but there was no turning back.