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M&S style boss Belinda Earl unveils first step towards turnaround M&S style boss Belinda Earl unveils first step towards turnaround
(4 months later)
A year ago Belinda Earl only ever went to Marks & Spencer to buy food or undies. Having worked for arch-enemy Debenhams for 18 years – before making millions from its sale – Earl says there was little to tempt her on M&S's clothing rails, with too many unfashionable, poor quality items.A year ago Belinda Earl only ever went to Marks & Spencer to buy food or undies. Having worked for arch-enemy Debenhams for 18 years – before making millions from its sale – Earl says there was little to tempt her on M&S's clothing rails, with too many unfashionable, poor quality items.
Now, as M&S's two-day-a-week style director, Earl is kitted out head to toe in M&S's premium Autograph spring collection and visits stores even on her days off, as she tries to put the retailer back on the fashion map.Now, as M&S's two-day-a-week style director, Earl is kitted out head to toe in M&S's premium Autograph spring collection and visits stores even on her days off, as she tries to put the retailer back on the fashion map.
It's a big ask. While rivals such as Next, Primark and the online store Asos are roaring ahead, M&S fashions have lurched from dull to dowdy and sales have been going backwards. The stores have only become a destination shop for the over-50s.It's a big ask. While rivals such as Next, Primark and the online store Asos are roaring ahead, M&S fashions have lurched from dull to dowdy and sales have been going backwards. The stores have only become a destination shop for the over-50s.
On Tuesday Earl and her team unveiled their first step towards reversing that trend, unveiling autumn collections which could cost or keep Marc Bolland's job as chief executive. If they sell well he will have bought himself some time, but if they flop he could be out of a job by Christmas. Her answer is a return to the retailer's historic values. "We are raising the bar in terms of taste, style and quality," Earl said. "It's about helping customers of every size, shape and age look their best."On Tuesday Earl and her team unveiled their first step towards reversing that trend, unveiling autumn collections which could cost or keep Marc Bolland's job as chief executive. If they sell well he will have bought himself some time, but if they flop he could be out of a job by Christmas. Her answer is a return to the retailer's historic values. "We are raising the bar in terms of taste, style and quality," Earl said. "It's about helping customers of every size, shape and age look their best."
The 51-year-old plans to use her experience in rebuilding Jaeger, which she led until early last year before stepping down for health reasons, to try to resurrect M&S's fashion credentials. This week's autumn collection was relatively well received and helped lift M&S's share price nearly 4% to 436p – its highest level since Bolland arrived. With that under her belt, Earl is now planning a catwalk event around London fashion week to win over shoppers.The 51-year-old plans to use her experience in rebuilding Jaeger, which she led until early last year before stepping down for health reasons, to try to resurrect M&S's fashion credentials. This week's autumn collection was relatively well received and helped lift M&S's share price nearly 4% to 436p – its highest level since Bolland arrived. With that under her belt, Earl is now planning a catwalk event around London fashion week to win over shoppers.
"It's about being confident about our collections and really demonstrating to customers that we have them in mind," she says. Earl now says that even when she first arrived there were "hidden gems" such as attractive dresses and well-cut trousers – but they were not given enough backing and got lost in the endless, uninspiring rails of clothing."It's about being confident about our collections and really demonstrating to customers that we have them in mind," she says. Earl now says that even when she first arrived there were "hidden gems" such as attractive dresses and well-cut trousers – but they were not given enough backing and got lost in the endless, uninspiring rails of clothing.
Earl says her experience in building up the Designers at Debenhams range will help underpin the creation of much stronger, clearer brands, which is one of the M&S chief executive's key aims.Earl says her experience in building up the Designers at Debenhams range will help underpin the creation of much stronger, clearer brands, which is one of the M&S chief executive's key aims.
Bolland and his director in charge of clothing and homewares, John Dixon – neither of whom have any fashion experience – are relying on Earl to shake-up M&S's clothing set-up. She first sold fashion as a Saturday girl at Debenhams when she was 16, before heading off to study business and management at university. She then completed a two-year traineeship at Harrods before returning to Debenhams and working her way up to chief executive.Bolland and his director in charge of clothing and homewares, John Dixon – neither of whom have any fashion experience – are relying on Earl to shake-up M&S's clothing set-up. She first sold fashion as a Saturday girl at Debenhams when she was 16, before heading off to study business and management at university. She then completed a two-year traineeship at Harrods before returning to Debenhams and working her way up to chief executive.
Her two-day-a-week job at M&S "makes me have a very efficient way of working,", she says. "It focuses my days and brings focus to the business as well."Her two-day-a-week job at M&S "makes me have a very efficient way of working,", she says. "It focuses my days and brings focus to the business as well."
It is a tough turnaround job. Underlying sales of M&S's clothing and homewares have been falling for nearly two years. The brand has been in decline for much longer than that as shoppers have turned to a whole range of cheaper, more fashionable or more luxurious alternatives. By trying to compete with fast growing rivals such as Primark on price, M&S lost the high ground on quality, while its fans have got steadily older and now average 49 . About 60% of the UK's adult population buys some kind of clothing or homewares in M&S every year, but everyone seems to have their own personal gripe: skirts are too long or too short, there are too many sleeveless tops and dresses, the fabrics are too flimsy, they don't wash well, the sizings are haywire.It is a tough turnaround job. Underlying sales of M&S's clothing and homewares have been falling for nearly two years. The brand has been in decline for much longer than that as shoppers have turned to a whole range of cheaper, more fashionable or more luxurious alternatives. By trying to compete with fast growing rivals such as Primark on price, M&S lost the high ground on quality, while its fans have got steadily older and now average 49 . About 60% of the UK's adult population buys some kind of clothing or homewares in M&S every year, but everyone seems to have their own personal gripe: skirts are too long or too short, there are too many sleeveless tops and dresses, the fabrics are too flimsy, they don't wash well, the sizings are haywire.
In a bid to respond, Earl says she has been listening to customers, in focus groups, through research questionnaires and in one-on-one meetings with shoppers who have written in. Someone in her team went through every question asked at a M&S annual shareholder meeting over the last several years, to identify recurring complaints.In a bid to respond, Earl says she has been listening to customers, in focus groups, through research questionnaires and in one-on-one meetings with shoppers who have written in. Someone in her team went through every question asked at a M&S annual shareholder meeting over the last several years, to identify recurring complaints.
Earl says that shoppers repeatedly demanded better quality and so, despite tough economic times with people holding on to their pennies, M&S is upping its use of more expensive fabrics such as cashmere and silk.Earl says that shoppers repeatedly demanded better quality and so, despite tough economic times with people holding on to their pennies, M&S is upping its use of more expensive fabrics such as cashmere and silk.
"We started to look down for inspiration and we should be looking up for aspiration. Our customers are aspiring to premium and luxury brands in the fashion world," says Earl."We started to look down for inspiration and we should be looking up for aspiration. Our customers are aspiring to premium and luxury brands in the fashion world," says Earl.
M&S's cheapest products won't increase in price, because the retailer has bought in bigger volumes from fewer suppliers – potentially 10% fewer – in order to get better deals on big-selling items such as T-shirts and cashmere sweaters. Basics have already been subtly improved - T-shirts, for example, will now be 2cm longer. More coats and dresses have also been added to the ranges and every store will have a dedicated department for these essentials by the autumn, a big change from now where many small and medium sized shops don't stock either.M&S's cheapest products won't increase in price, because the retailer has bought in bigger volumes from fewer suppliers – potentially 10% fewer – in order to get better deals on big-selling items such as T-shirts and cashmere sweaters. Basics have already been subtly improved - T-shirts, for example, will now be 2cm longer. More coats and dresses have also been added to the ranges and every store will have a dedicated department for these essentials by the autumn, a big change from now where many small and medium sized shops don't stock either.
M&S's in-house brands, including Autograph, Per Una and Indigo, will be given a makeover and Limited Collection has been re-branded as Limited Edition. It will focus on short blasts of "seasonal must-haves" as part of a longer-term bid to win back younger shoppers. Earl says: "Our vision is to target the 30-plus customer. We know she comes into stores, maybe not always for clothing, but we have an opportunity to attract her with really good quality and pieces that are key assets to her wardrobe."M&S's in-house brands, including Autograph, Per Una and Indigo, will be given a makeover and Limited Collection has been re-branded as Limited Edition. It will focus on short blasts of "seasonal must-haves" as part of a longer-term bid to win back younger shoppers. Earl says: "Our vision is to target the 30-plus customer. We know she comes into stores, maybe not always for clothing, but we have an opportunity to attract her with really good quality and pieces that are key assets to her wardrobe."
In truth Earl's short working week means M&S is relying on strong teamwork between her, Dixon and the womenswear director, Frances Russell, who previously revived M&S's key lingerie ranges. Dixon, meanwhile, has arrived from the far better performing M&S food business, which he turned around with a combination of product innovation, better promotions and improved efficiency from new technology and distribution systems. He aims to use the same levers to reboot fashion.In truth Earl's short working week means M&S is relying on strong teamwork between her, Dixon and the womenswear director, Frances Russell, who previously revived M&S's key lingerie ranges. Dixon, meanwhile, has arrived from the far better performing M&S food business, which he turned around with a combination of product innovation, better promotions and improved efficiency from new technology and distribution systems. He aims to use the same levers to reboot fashion.
"We are working well as a team," says Earl. But whether they will be successful remains to be seen. As she says "This is a big test.""We are working well as a team," says Earl. But whether they will be successful remains to be seen. As she says "This is a big test."
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