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Eight top fashion retailers fail to sign Bangladesh safety accord Eight top fashion retailers fail to sign Bangladesh safety accord
(4 months later)
At least eight of the UK's leading fashion retailers had last night failed to put their names to a legally binding initiative to offer financial support for fire safety and building improvements in the wake of the Bangladesh garment disaster.At least eight of the UK's leading fashion retailers had last night failed to put their names to a legally binding initiative to offer financial support for fire safety and building improvements in the wake of the Bangladesh garment disaster.
George at Asda, Next, Matalan, River Island, Sports Direct, Peacocks, Shop Direct and the Arcadia group – which includes Topshop, Bhs and Dorothy Perkins – all failed to meet a deadline set by NGOs and labour leaders to sign the pledge.George at Asda, Next, Matalan, River Island, Sports Direct, Peacocks, Shop Direct and the Arcadia group – which includes Topshop, Bhs and Dorothy Perkins – all failed to meet a deadline set by NGOs and labour leaders to sign the pledge.
The accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh, which has been signed by H&M, Primark, C&A, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Zara and Tesco, aims to compel retailers to pay for rigorous and independent public inspections and blacklist any factories unwilling to comply.The accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh, which has been signed by H&M, Primark, C&A, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Zara and Tesco, aims to compel retailers to pay for rigorous and independent public inspections and blacklist any factories unwilling to comply.
Last night a handful of other retailers did sign up before the deadline, including Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury's, New Look and N Brown, a mail order and online retailer whose brands include High & Mighty, Marisota and figleaves.com.Last night a handful of other retailers did sign up before the deadline, including Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury's, New Look and N Brown, a mail order and online retailer whose brands include High & Mighty, Marisota and figleaves.com.
The decision by the handful of retailers not to sign up was criticised by campaigners, who said it undermined any ethical initiatives the companies may have.The decision by the handful of retailers not to sign up was criticised by campaigners, who said it undermined any ethical initiatives the companies may have.
Sam Maher from Labour Behind the Label said: "I think they are running out of excuses. No company can say they have the interests of their workers at heart if they can't sign up.Sam Maher from Labour Behind the Label said: "I think they are running out of excuses. No company can say they have the interests of their workers at heart if they can't sign up.
"If H&M, Tesco and M&S can sign why can't Next and Arcadia? They have production in Bangladesh and have just as much responsibility to invest in those factories and ensure those workers are safe. Those that have signed have proved this is not an impossible demand."If H&M, Tesco and M&S can sign why can't Next and Arcadia? They have production in Bangladesh and have just as much responsibility to invest in those factories and ensure those workers are safe. Those that have signed have proved this is not an impossible demand.
"Are 1,200 dead workers not enough to make them realise something needs to be done?""Are 1,200 dead workers not enough to make them realise something needs to be done?"
The Ethical Trading Initiative, the UK's biggest alliance of businesses, trade unions and voluntary organisations, which aim to improve working conditions, has recommended its members sign up to the accord. Debenhams, Next and George at Asda are all members of the ETI but have yet to sign up.The Ethical Trading Initiative, the UK's biggest alliance of businesses, trade unions and voluntary organisations, which aim to improve working conditions, has recommended its members sign up to the accord. Debenhams, Next and George at Asda are all members of the ETI but have yet to sign up.
A spokesman for Debenhams said: "We fully agree with the intent of the agreement [however] we believe a collaborative approach to issues in Bangladesh is right. We continue to work through the Accord agreement and have provided feedback to the ETI."A spokesman for Debenhams said: "We fully agree with the intent of the agreement [however] we believe a collaborative approach to issues in Bangladesh is right. We continue to work through the Accord agreement and have provided feedback to the ETI."
The company sources less than 10% of its stock from Bangladesh and confirmed it had never used the collapsed Rana Plaza complex.The company sources less than 10% of its stock from Bangladesh and confirmed it had never used the collapsed Rana Plaza complex.
George at Asda, which is owned by US group Walmart, said about 20% of its clothes come from Bangladesh. George did not use the Rana Plaza building, but Walmart refused to confirm or deny whether it sourced clothes there, only saying that no "authorised" production took place there.George at Asda, which is owned by US group Walmart, said about 20% of its clothes come from Bangladesh. George did not use the Rana Plaza building, but Walmart refused to confirm or deny whether it sourced clothes there, only saying that no "authorised" production took place there.
A spokeswoman said: "We are making investments into increasing wages, promoting female empowerment, supporting communities, health and safety initiatives and better working conditions."A spokeswoman said: "We are making investments into increasing wages, promoting female empowerment, supporting communities, health and safety initiatives and better working conditions."
Next declined to comment, but sources suggested the company could sign up later this week. The failure to meet the deadline by some of the biggest fashion names in the UK comes less than a day after the Bangladeshi government agreed to allow the country's 4 million garment workers to form trade unions without permission from factory owners.Next declined to comment, but sources suggested the company could sign up later this week. The failure to meet the deadline by some of the biggest fashion names in the UK comes less than a day after the Bangladeshi government agreed to allow the country's 4 million garment workers to form trade unions without permission from factory owners.
Arcadia group, owned by billionaire Sir Philip Green, said it was unaware of the agreement and had not been approached by the ETI.Arcadia group, owned by billionaire Sir Philip Green, said it was unaware of the agreement and had not been approached by the ETI.
A spokeswoman said: "We are not members of the ETI but have our own robust and comprehensive ethical trading programme and a resultant code of conduct."A spokeswoman said: "We are not members of the ETI but have our own robust and comprehensive ethical trading programme and a resultant code of conduct."
She confirmed that the company did not use the Rana Plaza building and it is understood the business has no plans to sign up.She confirmed that the company did not use the Rana Plaza building and it is understood the business has no plans to sign up.
Matalan, which used suppliers in the building as recently as February this year, said it would not be signing up to the agreement, but said it is part of a different non-binding agreement.Matalan, which used suppliers in the building as recently as February this year, said it would not be signing up to the agreement, but said it is part of a different non-binding agreement.
Philip Jennings, general secretary of UNI Global Union, which helped draft the proposals, said, "The clock is ticking for companies to show they care about their Bangladeshi supplier workforce. Their corporate reputations may be on the line but more importantly, so are the lives and livelihoods of these vulnerable factory workers in Bangladesh."Philip Jennings, general secretary of UNI Global Union, which helped draft the proposals, said, "The clock is ticking for companies to show they care about their Bangladeshi supplier workforce. Their corporate reputations may be on the line but more importantly, so are the lives and livelihoods of these vulnerable factory workers in Bangladesh."
Shop Direct said it will not sign but is working with the International Labour Organisation instead. A spokeswoman added: "We trust their judgement and will continue to follow their actions closely."Shop Direct said it will not sign but is working with the International Labour Organisation instead. A spokeswoman added: "We trust their judgement and will continue to follow their actions closely."
Sports Direct declined to comment on the agreement but said a very small number of products come from Bangladesh. Peacocks and River Island were unavailable.Sports Direct declined to comment on the agreement but said a very small number of products come from Bangladesh. Peacocks and River Island were unavailable.
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