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A Pie That Has Stepped Up in Class A Peasant Pie Comfortable at Any Table
(3 days later)
In the sunnier climes of Italy, Greece and the south of France, there’s a long tradition of frugal, savory pies made with a humble filling of cooked greens (usually wild foraged ones, like dandelion or nettles), stewed onions and a little grated cheese. Though tasty, they were meatless — this was peasant food. The family cook probably heard, “What, pie again?” more often than not. It was a way to stay alive. In the sunnier climes of Italy, Greece and the south of France, there’s a long tradition of frugal, savory pies made with a humble filling of cooked greens (usually wild foraged ones, like dandelion or nettles), stewed onions and a little grated cheese. Though tasty, they were meatless — this was peasant food. The family cook probably heard, “What, pie again?” more often than not. But it was a way to stay alive.
As is the case with a number of other peasant dishes, green pie evolved into a beloved tradition, served even in times of plenty with great delight. Now it is found in lots of cookbooks and made with cultivated garden chard or spinach.As is the case with a number of other peasant dishes, green pie evolved into a beloved tradition, served even in times of plenty with great delight. Now it is found in lots of cookbooks and made with cultivated garden chard or spinach.
Most fans of the pie, called torta pascualina in Italy, make it for special occasions because the preparation is a bit fiddly. Spring may be enough of an occasion, though, since that’s when all sorts of wonderful greens are at the market. Most fans of the pie, called torta pasqualina in Italy, make it for special occasions because the preparation is a bit fiddly. Spring may be enough of an occasion, though, since that’s when all sorts of wonderful greens are at the market.
To make the pie, traditional cooks use a strudel-like pastry, rolled out very thin into a large circle. At least four layers are necessary, brushed with oil to achieve a flaky crust. (You can get good results with phyllo dough or ordinary pie dough, if you prefer.) The greens are briefly wilted and cooled before they are mixed with plenty of onions and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. A generous amount of Parmesan, a dollop of ricotta and a few beaten eggs are added.To make the pie, traditional cooks use a strudel-like pastry, rolled out very thin into a large circle. At least four layers are necessary, brushed with oil to achieve a flaky crust. (You can get good results with phyllo dough or ordinary pie dough, if you prefer.) The greens are briefly wilted and cooled before they are mixed with plenty of onions and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. A generous amount of Parmesan, a dollop of ricotta and a few beaten eggs are added.
Now comes the fun part. The greens mixture is spread to a 2-inch thickness over the bottom layers of pastry, and more eggs are added, but this time cracked whole into shallow depressions. The top layers of pastry are then carefully stretched over the pie before being brushed with glaze. When the pie is finally baked and cut into wedges, it magically has hard-cooked eggs inside.Now comes the fun part. The greens mixture is spread to a 2-inch thickness over the bottom layers of pastry, and more eggs are added, but this time cracked whole into shallow depressions. The top layers of pastry are then carefully stretched over the pie before being brushed with glaze. When the pie is finally baked and cut into wedges, it magically has hard-cooked eggs inside.
This giant green pie is impressive to behold, well browned and fragrant, a vegetarian feast. Most likely you’ll hear compliments, and no complaints at all.This giant green pie is impressive to behold, well browned and fragrant, a vegetarian feast. Most likely you’ll hear compliments, and no complaints at all.