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The Pontfadog oak was the oldest of the old, revered, loved … and now mourned The Pontfadog oak was the oldest of the old, revered, loved … and now mourned
(5 months later)
Huw Williams wasn't too worried when he was woken at 2.20am by a mighty crack. The old tree that stood 30ft behind Cilcochwyn, the farmhouse above the village of Pontfadog in Mid Wales, had probably lost another bough in the gale raging outside, he thought. He checked that everyone was safe and the roof intact and went back to sleep.Huw Williams wasn't too worried when he was woken at 2.20am by a mighty crack. The old tree that stood 30ft behind Cilcochwyn, the farmhouse above the village of Pontfadog in Mid Wales, had probably lost another bough in the gale raging outside, he thought. He checked that everyone was safe and the roof intact and went back to sleep.
The shock came when he went to work. Last weekend's storm had blown itself out, but the tree that had overlooked the Ceiriog valley for 1,200 years, surviving tempest, battle, fire, the threat of flooding and 40 or more generations of people taking its wood for fuel and buildings had toppled.The shock came when he went to work. Last weekend's storm had blown itself out, but the tree that had overlooked the Ceiriog valley for 1,200 years, surviving tempest, battle, fire, the threat of flooding and 40 or more generations of people taking its wood for fuel and buildings had toppled.
The Pontfadog oak was the oldest tree in Wales, the third largest in Britain and one of the oldest in Europe. It was lying among the celandines and primroses in the bright spring sunshine, its roots pointing skywards, gnarled trunk collapsed and piles of branches, decayed wood, lichens, fungi, nests and bark in the grass around it.The Pontfadog oak was the oldest tree in Wales, the third largest in Britain and one of the oldest in Europe. It was lying among the celandines and primroses in the bright spring sunshine, its roots pointing skywards, gnarled trunk collapsed and piles of branches, decayed wood, lichens, fungi, nests and bark in the grass around it.
Its massive, hollow bole had crushed a metal gate as it had fallen and the tips of its branches, which had been about to burst into leaf, were resting lightly on Cilcochwyn's purple slate roof. What had been called "Wales's national tree", whose girth had been measured at over 53ft in 1881, looked small and shrunken.Its massive, hollow bole had crushed a metal gate as it had fallen and the tips of its branches, which had been about to burst into leaf, were resting lightly on Cilcochwyn's purple slate roof. What had been called "Wales's national tree", whose girth had been measured at over 53ft in 1881, looked small and shrunken.
The news of the demise of this medieval relic, which had been seeded several centuries before most cathedrals were built, and well before the land to the east of Offa's dyke was named England, was on Facebook by breakfast.The news of the demise of this medieval relic, which had been seeded several centuries before most cathedrals were built, and well before the land to the east of Offa's dyke was named England, was on Facebook by breakfast.
By lunch the experts, the tree enthusiasts and the curious were arriving in Pontfadog. They marvelled that the tree's branches showed six inches of growth in the past year, yet the tree had lost all its main roots and must have only been standing because of its weight. They mused about how much history it would have seen and nearly everyone said it was like losing a member of the community.By lunch the experts, the tree enthusiasts and the curious were arriving in Pontfadog. They marvelled that the tree's branches showed six inches of growth in the past year, yet the tree had lost all its main roots and must have only been standing because of its weight. They mused about how much history it would have seen and nearly everyone said it was like losing a member of the community.
That evening, when the tourists had gone, about 30 locals from the valley gathered by the tree. "It was like a wake. We raised a glass to it," said Dianne Coakley-Williams, Huw Williams's wife.That evening, when the tourists had gone, about 30 locals from the valley gathered by the tree. "It was like a wake. We raised a glass to it," said Dianne Coakley-Williams, Huw Williams's wife.
The stories came out. The Williams family archive, which goes back five generations, reports that a missing bull had once spent two days inside the hollow trunk. Two golden chisels were said to have been hidden in it. In 1880, six men sat around a table inside it. It was used by sheep both as a shelter and somewhere to die; children used to play in it; Victorians posed for photographs by it; and generations carved their initials in it.The stories came out. The Williams family archive, which goes back five generations, reports that a missing bull had once spent two days inside the hollow trunk. Two golden chisels were said to have been hidden in it. In 1880, six men sat around a table inside it. It was used by sheep both as a shelter and somewhere to die; children used to play in it; Victorians posed for photographs by it; and generations carved their initials in it.
"It was always a working tree, pollarded or pruned for its wood. It was part of the community. People built houses from it, cooked from it. That's why it lived so long. It always had a role," said Moray Simpson, tree officer for Wrexham county borough council and a board member of the Ancient Tree Forum."It was always a working tree, pollarded or pruned for its wood. It was part of the community. People built houses from it, cooked from it. That's why it lived so long. It always had a role," said Moray Simpson, tree officer for Wrexham county borough council and a board member of the Ancient Tree Forum.
"It had a particular fascination for children," said Williams. The annual Pontfadog Easter-egg hunt would always start there and eggs were hidden in it. The Brownies used to do their promise there and it was the symbol of the local primary school. At the age of 12, Dianne Coakley-Williams's mother-in-law, Josie, recorded in her diary for 26 March 1963: "The big tree fell in half. Ted came to see it.""It had a particular fascination for children," said Williams. The annual Pontfadog Easter-egg hunt would always start there and eggs were hidden in it. The Brownies used to do their promise there and it was the symbol of the local primary school. At the age of 12, Dianne Coakley-Williams's mother-in-law, Josie, recorded in her diary for 26 March 1963: "The big tree fell in half. Ted came to see it."
"My daughter Danielle used to say it was a real-life Enid Blyton Magic Faraway Tree, or like the Whomping Willow in the Harry Potter stories," said Lynne Babbington from the village."My daughter Danielle used to say it was a real-life Enid Blyton Magic Faraway Tree, or like the Whomping Willow in the Harry Potter stories," said Lynne Babbington from the village.
At some point the tree and Wales's history merged. It alone was said to have been spared when King Henry II's men razed the Ceiriog Woods in 1165. The Welsh prince Owain Gwynedd is believed to have then rallied his army beneath it before taking on, and defeating, the English at the battle of Crogen, fought just two miles down the valley.At some point the tree and Wales's history merged. It alone was said to have been spared when King Henry II's men razed the Ceiriog Woods in 1165. The Welsh prince Owain Gwynedd is believed to have then rallied his army beneath it before taking on, and defeating, the English at the battle of Crogen, fought just two miles down the valley.
No one knew quite how old it was because it had lost its heartwood, but Michael Lear, a tree expert with the National Trust, visited Pontfadog in 1996 and wrote to Josie Williams: "Using Forestry Commission techniques, the youngest it can be is 1,181 years, the oldest 1,628 years. "I cannot find a record of an oak tree of any of the 500 species internationally which has a greater girth anywhere in the world."No one knew quite how old it was because it had lost its heartwood, but Michael Lear, a tree expert with the National Trust, visited Pontfadog in 1996 and wrote to Josie Williams: "Using Forestry Commission techniques, the youngest it can be is 1,181 years, the oldest 1,628 years. "I cannot find a record of an oak tree of any of the 500 species internationally which has a greater girth anywhere in the world."
Yet, for all its local renown, the Pontfadog oak was barely known outside the small Ceiriog valley and the community of ancient tree experts. It was mentioned by George Borrow on his journey across Wales in 1862 but, like most other ancient trees in Britain, it was never fenced off or protected, and no one was ever asked to pay to see it – although Huw Williams's grandmother used to put out a collection box for the local Cheshire home, sometimes raising £5 a year. "It was just our tree, part of the landscape. We were very proud of it," said one woman from the valley the next day. Last week, some of Britain's specialists on ancient trees gathered at Pontfadog for a post mortem.Yet, for all its local renown, the Pontfadog oak was barely known outside the small Ceiriog valley and the community of ancient tree experts. It was mentioned by George Borrow on his journey across Wales in 1862 but, like most other ancient trees in Britain, it was never fenced off or protected, and no one was ever asked to pay to see it – although Huw Williams's grandmother used to put out a collection box for the local Cheshire home, sometimes raising £5 a year. "It was just our tree, part of the landscape. We were very proud of it," said one woman from the valley the next day. Last week, some of Britain's specialists on ancient trees gathered at Pontfadog for a post mortem.
"It was the national tree of Wales and one of the oldest oaks in Europe. I'm desperately trying to find people who can help in propagating from the tree by either grafting or micro-propagation in order to maintain its genotype. Kew Gardens have said they are interested," said Simpson."It was the national tree of Wales and one of the oldest oaks in Europe. I'm desperately trying to find people who can help in propagating from the tree by either grafting or micro-propagation in order to maintain its genotype. Kew Gardens have said they are interested," said Simpson.
In fact, the tree could have been saved for many more years. Last year a group from the Ancient Tree Forum visited Pontfadog and, seeing it was vulnerable to a big wind, put together a list of actions costing £5,700 that they thought might have protected it. Despite a petition of 6,000 signatures to the Welsh assembly, no money could be found.In fact, the tree could have been saved for many more years. Last year a group from the Ancient Tree Forum visited Pontfadog and, seeing it was vulnerable to a big wind, put together a list of actions costing £5,700 that they thought might have protected it. Despite a petition of 6,000 signatures to the Welsh assembly, no money could be found.
Almost all Britain's ancient trees are just as loved as the Pontfadog oak by their communities and most are very vulnerable, says the forum. According to its database, the UK has 80% of all northern Europe's ancient trees, with 5,365 in England, 581 in Wales and 646 in Scotland. Many are 500 years old or more.Almost all Britain's ancient trees are just as loved as the Pontfadog oak by their communities and most are very vulnerable, says the forum. According to its database, the UK has 80% of all northern Europe's ancient trees, with 5,365 in England, 581 in Wales and 646 in Scotland. Many are 500 years old or more.
A further 100,000 old trees in Britain are classed as "veteran", "notable" or "heritage" trees, considered to be of particular ecological or cultural value. Of these, 18,535 are oaks and 1,535 are classed as "ancient", surviving in ancient hedges, old deer parks, on hillsides and even in cities. London has more than 500. "There could be far more," says Rob McBride, a "tree hunter" who has spent 10 years recording Britain's old trees. "In Shropshire alone we have 3,100. I think there could be 20,000 there."A further 100,000 old trees in Britain are classed as "veteran", "notable" or "heritage" trees, considered to be of particular ecological or cultural value. Of these, 18,535 are oaks and 1,535 are classed as "ancient", surviving in ancient hedges, old deer parks, on hillsides and even in cities. London has more than 500. "There could be far more," says Rob McBride, a "tree hunter" who has spent 10 years recording Britain's old trees. "In Shropshire alone we have 3,100. I think there could be 20,000 there."
But tree experts warned last week that many would fall if they were not better protected. "We protect old buildings and other historic manmade structures but there's nothing for our oldest living monuments," said Jill Butler, conservation policy adviser at the Woodland Trust.But tree experts warned last week that many would fall if they were not better protected. "We protect old buildings and other historic manmade structures but there's nothing for our oldest living monuments," said Jill Butler, conservation policy adviser at the Woodland Trust.
There are subsidies to plant trees and money to make footpaths through woods, she said, but no protection for old trees beyond "tree orders", which theoretically prevent them being cut down, but which can often be circumvented by developers if the trees are decaying.There are subsidies to plant trees and money to make footpaths through woods, she said, but no protection for old trees beyond "tree orders", which theoretically prevent them being cut down, but which can often be circumvented by developers if the trees are decaying.
The older trees are, the more valuable they become for wildlife, she says. "They are literally nature reserves on people's doorsteps, and once removed or fragmented the ecology associated with them is isolated and cannot survive." According to the Woodland Trust, many ancient trees are in immediate danger because they are in the way of housing developments or roads. At least eight are in the path of the proposed HS2 railway line.The older trees are, the more valuable they become for wildlife, she says. "They are literally nature reserves on people's doorsteps, and once removed or fragmented the ecology associated with them is isolated and cannot survive." According to the Woodland Trust, many ancient trees are in immediate danger because they are in the way of housing developments or roads. At least eight are in the path of the proposed HS2 railway line.
"They are part of our heritage, yet there is no help for owners to protect them. They are national monuments, part of our culture. They're valuable for continuity, an irreplaceable and already extremely vulnerable part of the UK's natural and historic environment," said Moray Simpson."They are part of our heritage, yet there is no help for owners to protect them. They are national monuments, part of our culture. They're valuable for continuity, an irreplaceable and already extremely vulnerable part of the UK's natural and historic environment," said Moray Simpson.
"Man's passion for ancient trees is boundless, touching all walks of life, professions and classes, and is a continuous thread throughout history. We should recognise that the UK's greatest obligation to the conservation of European biodiversity, heritage and culture rests in our ancient veteran trees," said Ted Green, Britain's foremost ancient tree expert."Man's passion for ancient trees is boundless, touching all walks of life, professions and classes, and is a continuous thread throughout history. We should recognise that the UK's greatest obligation to the conservation of European biodiversity, heritage and culture rests in our ancient veteran trees," said Ted Green, Britain's foremost ancient tree expert.
No decision has been made on what to do with the Pontfadog oak beyond moving it off the farmhouse roof. Left to decompose, it could continue to provide a habitat for wildlife for another 100 years.No decision has been made on what to do with the Pontfadog oak beyond moving it off the farmhouse roof. Left to decompose, it could continue to provide a habitat for wildlife for another 100 years.
There have been proposals to resurrect it as a monument or make a bardic chair from its wood. But Dianne Coakley-Williams is adamant it should not leave the valley. "It lived here and it will stay here," she says.There have been proposals to resurrect it as a monument or make a bardic chair from its wood. But Dianne Coakley-Williams is adamant it should not leave the valley. "It lived here and it will stay here," she says.
Happily, it has its descendants. Two saplings grown from its acorns are believed to be in the Botanical Garden of Wales and another may be at the local hospital.Happily, it has its descendants. Two saplings grown from its acorns are believed to be in the Botanical Garden of Wales and another may be at the local hospital.
Practical to the end, Huw Williams says he was only disappointed that the tree's last act would not benefit the family that had cared for it for so long. "If it had just fallen a few feet to the left, we could have had a new roof," he said.Practical to the end, Huw Williams says he was only disappointed that the tree's last act would not benefit the family that had cared for it for so long. "If it had just fallen a few feet to the left, we could have had a new roof," he said.
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