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Making Big Plans for Small Artichokes | |
(about 3 hours later) | |
Large globe artichokes are delicious, and so is the ritual of eating them: plucking the leaves one at a time, savoring the edible bits, and scooping out and discarding the hairy choke before digging into the meaty heart. | Large globe artichokes are delicious, and so is the ritual of eating them: plucking the leaves one at a time, savoring the edible bits, and scooping out and discarding the hairy choke before digging into the meaty heart. |
Even better, especially this time of year, are so-called baby artichokes. Instead of eating one, you eat a whole pile. | Even better, especially this time of year, are so-called baby artichokes. Instead of eating one, you eat a whole pile. |
These miniature specimens, which grow on the same plant as larger artichokes, have no choke at all, and are quite easy to prepare. Snap off a few of the tough, dark exterior leaves until the pale green centers are visible. Then cut a half-inch or so off the tops of each artichoke and trim the stem end with a paring knife. Cut them lengthwise into halves or quarters and put them in a bowl of water with a good squeeze of lemon juice to prevent them from turning brown. This can be done an hour or two before cooking. | |
There are a variety of ways to proceed, all of them quick. | There are a variety of ways to proceed, all of them quick. |
In Italy, a favorite way to serve fresh small artichokes is raw, dressed with oil and lemon. It couldn’t be simpler, but it’s sensational. Slice the trimmed artichokes as thinly as possible, then season and toss with fruity extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Serve over arugula and add curls of Parmigiano. | In Italy, a favorite way to serve fresh small artichokes is raw, dressed with oil and lemon. It couldn’t be simpler, but it’s sensational. Slice the trimmed artichokes as thinly as possible, then season and toss with fruity extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Serve over arugula and add curls of Parmigiano. |
If you want to steam or boil them, 8 to 10 minutes will suffice. Serve hot, drizzled with melted butter or olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt and pepper. | |
Or you could sauté them gently in a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. When they are crisp and lightly browned, finish them with salt and pepper; a handful of chopped parsley and garlic; and a few drops of vinegar and red pepper flakes. | |
For the ultimate treat, try them shallow-fried. Use all olive oil if you’re feeling extravagant, or a frugal combination of olive oil and vegetable oil. Give the prepared artichokes a bath in buttermilk for a few minutes, then dredge them in seasoned flour. Fry them in a half-inch of oil — about two minutes a side — until golden brown. | |
To serve, I shower them with gremolata, the Italian mixture of parsley, garlic and lemon zest. (My version adds orange zest and capers.) Gremolata is the traditional topping for veal shanks, but I find myself using it on all sorts of dishes. With piping-hot fried artichokes, it’s divine. |