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Fast track to Eastern Europe's future Fast track to Eastern Europe's future
(4 days later)
The railways of Eastern Europe are going through a period of great upheaval including sudden privatisation and modernisation, following years of neglect. Nick Thorpe took a rail trip through the region to see for himself.The railways of Eastern Europe are going through a period of great upheaval including sudden privatisation and modernisation, following years of neglect. Nick Thorpe took a rail trip through the region to see for himself.
Poland's first private passenger train is due to launch this autumnPoland's first private passenger train is due to launch this autumn
The lady in the brown dress held up the Tihany express.The lady in the brown dress held up the Tihany express.
"Please wait!" she called, as she scuttled down the platform, plastic bottle in hand. "The children are thirsty.""Please wait!" she called, as she scuttled down the platform, plastic bottle in hand. "The children are thirsty."
The pot-bellied signalman breathed the sigh of a man used to taking orders from women all his life, and sat down heavily on a bench, his red cap catching the late afternoon sun like a Balkan woodpecker.The pot-bellied signalman breathed the sigh of a man used to taking orders from women all his life, and sat down heavily on a bench, his red cap catching the late afternoon sun like a Balkan woodpecker.
The lady filled the bottle from a tap on the platform, hurried back to the train, handed the water in through the window and waved to the signalman. He blew his whistle and the train continued, hooting round Lake Balaton, like an ancient iron goose.The lady filled the bottle from a tap on the platform, hurried back to the train, handed the water in through the window and waved to the signalman. He blew his whistle and the train continued, hooting round Lake Balaton, like an ancient iron goose.
I have witnessed many such scenes this summer on the railways of Eastern Europe: the solidarity of passengers with one another, the leniency of ticket collectors and railwaymen.I have witnessed many such scenes this summer on the railways of Eastern Europe: the solidarity of passengers with one another, the leniency of ticket collectors and railwaymen.
Despite the general poverty of the railways, the decay and delay, there is what I can only describe as an old-fashioned socialism on the railways of Eastern Europe, which the roads have never had.Despite the general poverty of the railways, the decay and delay, there is what I can only describe as an old-fashioned socialism on the railways of Eastern Europe, which the roads have never had.
Europe has shifted its centre of gravity eastwards Janusz Piechocinski, Transport Consultants Group, WarsawEurope has shifted its centre of gravity eastwards Janusz Piechocinski, Transport Consultants Group, Warsaw
People feel the train is genuinely theirs. You notice it most in summer, beside the Baltic Sea in Poland, Lake Balaton in Hungary or anywhere where the train is part of the people's holiday.People feel the train is genuinely theirs. You notice it most in summer, beside the Baltic Sea in Poland, Lake Balaton in Hungary or anywhere where the train is part of the people's holiday.
Children still wave at strangers and strangers cannot resist waving back. Perhaps that is also why urban youth spend so much effort spraying their strange designs on the carriages.Children still wave at strangers and strangers cannot resist waving back. Perhaps that is also why urban youth spend so much effort spraying their strange designs on the carriages.
Searching for a new modelSearching for a new model
But this is a time of great change on the tracks of Eastern Europe.But this is a time of great change on the tracks of Eastern Europe.
Hungary's Balaton region is a popular tourist destinationHungary's Balaton region is a popular tourist destination
The rolling stock is 25 years old on average - the locomotives and carriages and freight wagons - and companies are competing to replace them.The rolling stock is 25 years old on average - the locomotives and carriages and freight wagons - and companies are competing to replace them.
The cargo arms of the big state rail companies are being sold off and, in some countries at least, are already flexing new, private muscles.The cargo arms of the big state rail companies are being sold off and, in some countries at least, are already flexing new, private muscles.
This year the rail freight market was liberalised throughout the European Union and in 2010 passenger traffic will follow. Each country is trying to avoid the mistakes made by others.This year the rail freight market was liberalised throughout the European Union and in 2010 passenger traffic will follow. Each country is trying to avoid the mistakes made by others.
EU money is providing an important boost and so is the increasing congestion on the roads. The number of lorries on Polish roads alone has tripled in the past three years.EU money is providing an important boost and so is the increasing congestion on the roads. The number of lorries on Polish roads alone has tripled in the past three years.
"Europe has shifted its centre of gravity eastwards," says Janusz Piechocinski, director of the Transport Consultants Group in Warsaw, "and we can all gain from the pool of experience here"."Europe has shifted its centre of gravity eastwards," says Janusz Piechocinski, director of the Transport Consultants Group in Warsaw, "and we can all gain from the pool of experience here".
To open the vast markets of the former Soviet Union and Asia, he offers a model: British finance, German logistics and Polish experience in crossing the eastern borders.To open the vast markets of the former Soviet Union and Asia, he offers a model: British finance, German logistics and Polish experience in crossing the eastern borders.
For now, those borders present a major headache to freight companies. There are two different kinds of documentation, even two different widths of track (the Russian is wider).For now, those borders present a major headache to freight companies. There are two different kinds of documentation, even two different widths of track (the Russian is wider).
Now President Putin has signalled his intention to privatise the vast Russian railways.Now President Putin has signalled his intention to privatise the vast Russian railways.
EU fundingEU funding
"Will EU players be allowed to participate or only the Germans?" Piechocinski asks. He is full of questions."Will EU players be allowed to participate or only the Germans?" Piechocinski asks. He is full of questions.
"In a globalised world is there any sense in keeping Hungarian, Czech and Polish railway companies or would it make sense to put together an alliance of them to cut costs and restructure?"In a globalised world is there any sense in keeping Hungarian, Czech and Polish railway companies or would it make sense to put together an alliance of them to cut costs and restructure?
"Why concentrate so much EU money on high-speed trains and trans-European railway corridors, when it might be better spent on modernising trains and tracks used by most of the population?"Why concentrate so much EU money on high-speed trains and trans-European railway corridors, when it might be better spent on modernising trains and tracks used by most of the population?
"Why is privatisation stagnating in western Europe, but moving ahead so fast in the east?""Why is privatisation stagnating in western Europe, but moving ahead so fast in the east?"
The Poles began privatising their freight transport three years ago and the first private passenger train will run this autumn. They have also been the most successful of the East Europeans in tapping EU funds so far.The Poles began privatising their freight transport three years ago and the first private passenger train will run this autumn. They have also been the most successful of the East Europeans in tapping EU funds so far.
Above all, Piechocinski believes in the future.Above all, Piechocinski believes in the future.
"We've entered a period of 20 years of prosperity and growth," he says."We've entered a period of 20 years of prosperity and growth," he says.
'Slow but safe''Slow but safe'
And in Prague, Ales Ondruj, the marketing director of Czech Railways, is also optimistic.And in Prague, Ales Ondruj, the marketing director of Czech Railways, is also optimistic.
"Last year we had three million more passengers than in 2005," he says."Last year we had three million more passengers than in 2005," he says.
In places, the train is only allowed to travel at 30 miles an hour The new super-city Pendolino express has shaved hours off the route from Prague to Ostrava in the east. But he laments the years of neglect.In places, the train is only allowed to travel at 30 miles an hour The new super-city Pendolino express has shaved hours off the route from Prague to Ostrava in the east. But he laments the years of neglect.
"The age of the trains is not the main problem, but the absence in eastern Europe of the kind of constant upgrading and modernisation you see in the west.""The age of the trains is not the main problem, but the absence in eastern Europe of the kind of constant upgrading and modernisation you see in the west."
"We may be slow, but we're safe," says Zbigniew Szafranski of the Polish rail company, PKP, when I ask about the ponderous progress of my intercity train from Warsaw to Gdansk."We may be slow, but we're safe," says Zbigniew Szafranski of the Polish rail company, PKP, when I ask about the ponderous progress of my intercity train from Warsaw to Gdansk.
He explains that the wooden sleepers under the first 40 miles (64km) of that line are almost destroyed.He explains that the wooden sleepers under the first 40 miles (64km) of that line are almost destroyed.
In places, the train is only allowed to travel at 30 miles an hour (50kmph). While the modernisation of north-south routes would be more important for Poles, EU money is focused more on east-west routes.In places, the train is only allowed to travel at 30 miles an hour (50kmph). While the modernisation of north-south routes would be more important for Poles, EU money is focused more on east-west routes.
He dreams of 180-mile-per-hour trains between Warsaw and Gdansk, cutting the journey time from five to three hours. He dreams of 180-mile-per-hour (250-km-per-hour) trains between Warsaw and Gdansk, cutting the journey time from five to three hours.
On the train two teenage lads make room for me in an already crowded carriage. They are on their way to a wind-surfing camp in Hel - don't laugh - it is a rather pretty spit of sand, stretching out into the Baltic Sea.On the train two teenage lads make room for me in an already crowded carriage. They are on their way to a wind-surfing camp in Hel - don't laugh - it is a rather pretty spit of sand, stretching out into the Baltic Sea.
Will East European railway hospitality survive privatisation?Will East European railway hospitality survive privatisation?
One can only hope.One can only hope.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday 18 August, 2007 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday 18 August, 2007 at 1130 BST on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.