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A Brooklyn Specialty Brewer Dares the French Market Brooklynite Hits France, With Plans to Seduce
(about 3 hours later)
PARIS — Garrett Oliver popped the cork of one of his specialty brews, swirled the amber liquid into a wine glass and took a hearty sniff.PARIS — Garrett Oliver popped the cork of one of his specialty brews, swirled the amber liquid into a wine glass and took a hearty sniff.
“It smells a little like cheese — in a good way,” he said the other night at a tasting of his artisanal beers in Paris. “It smells a little like cheese — in a good way,” Mr. Oliver said the other night at a tasting of his artisanal beers.
Mr. Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, a New York craft-beer maker now trying to expand into France, has a quirky way of describing his creations. He refers to the more complex ones as “a little bit barnyard,” “having a funky nose” and “like a good sourdough bread.” Mr. Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, has a quirky way of describing his creations. He refers to the more complex ones as “a little bit barnyard,” “having a funky nose” or “like a good sourdough bread.”
Brooklyn Brewery is counting on those earthy complexities to entice drinkers to try something new in a country where even construction workers are more likely to belly up to the bar for un petit verre of the house red than they are to ask for un demi, or small glass of beer. But Brooklyn, the New York borough, has become a global brand, and Brooklyn Brewery is counting on that — and its beers’ earthy complexities — to entice drinkers to try something new in a country where even construction workers are more likely to belly up to the bar for “un petit verre” of the house red than they are to ask for “un demi,” or a small glass of beer.
This is no sure bet for Brooklyn Brewery. Beer consumption in France is Europe’s second-lowest, after Italy, with only 16 percent of French drinkers choosing beer. With nearly two-thirds preferring wine, French consumers have proved so unfriendly in the past that few American craft brewers have bothered to cross the ocean. The only American beer that has caught on to any extent is Bud, largely by dint of the distributive heft of its multinational parent, Anheuser-Busch InBev. This is no sure bet for Brooklyn Brewery. Beer consumption in France is Europe’s second-lowest, after Italy; only 16 percent of French drinkers choose beer. With nearly two-thirds preferring wine, French consumers have proved so unfriendly in the past that few American craft brewers have bothered to cross the ocean. The only American beer that has caught on to any extent is Bud, largely by dint of the distributive heft of its multinational parent, Anheuser-Busch InBev.
“France is a difficult nut to crack,” said Simon Spillane, senior adviser of the Brussels-based Brewers of Europe, which tracks beer consumption by country. Added to the brewer’s challenge is the 160 percent increase in the French beer tax that took effect Jan. 1, which is projected to raise the price of a typical half-pint of beer by 20 to 30 centimes, the equivalent of 27 to 40 U.S. cents. “France is a difficult nut to crack,” said Simon Spillane, senior adviser of the Brussels-based Brewers of Europe, which tracks beer consumption by country. Added to the brewer’s challenge is the 160 percent increase in the French beer tax that took effect Jan. 1, which is projected to raise the price of a typical half-pint of beer by 20 to 30 centimes, the equivalent of 27 to 40 cents.
And yet, among younger French men and women there are signs of changing tastes. While consumption of all alcoholic beverages in France has been dropping for 30 years, beer is nonetheless an industry with annual sales of €2 billion, or $2.7 billion. And even as overall beer sales in France fell 1.7 percent in 2010, the most recent year for which data are available, specialty beers saw a jump of 8.8 percent, according to the French Brewers’ Association. And yet, among younger French men and women there are signs of changing tastes. While consumption of all alcoholic beverages in France has been dropping for 30 years, beer is nonetheless an industry with annual sales of 2 billion euros, or $2.7 billion. And even as overall beer sales in France fell 1.7 percent in 2010, the most recent year for which data are available, specialty beer sales jumped 8.8 percent, according to the French Brewers’ Association.
Craft brewers, an American category for independent breweries producing fewer than six million barrels a year, and smaller microbreweries have been popping up across France. Numerically, they are the vast majority of the approximately 500 brewers now operating in the country, although their sales make up only 2 percent in a market dominated by Carlsberg, Heineken and Anheuser-Busch InBev.Craft brewers, an American category for independent breweries producing fewer than six million barrels a year, and smaller microbreweries have been popping up across France. Numerically, they are the vast majority of the approximately 500 brewers now operating in the country, although their sales make up only 2 percent in a market dominated by Carlsberg, Heineken and Anheuser-Busch InBev.
“People are drinking less but they want something that’s good — they’re fed up with crappy, tasteless beer,” said Simon Thillou, a former journalist who in 2006 opened La Cave à Bulles, a specialty shop in the Marais section of Paris. The shop sells 250 craft and microbrews, now including Brooklyn Brewery’s. “People are drinking less, but they want something that’s good,” said Simon Thillou, a former journalist who in 2006, tired of the usual “tasteless beer,” opened La Cave à Bulles, a specialty shop in the Marais section of Paris. The shop sells 250 craft and microbrews, now including Brooklyn Brewery’s.
Mr. Thillou and others in the French industry attribute the drop in drinking less to a health kick than to an evolution in taste. The French, they say, are now willing to spend more for a better product, be it wine or beer, even if they consume less of it. It is a trend that may bode well even for niche beers that pack a bitter punch and test a French palate predisposed to aromatic, lighter flavors. Mr. Thillou and others in the French industry attribute the drop in drinking less to a health kick than to an evolution in taste. The French, they say, are now willing to spend more for a better product, be it wine or beer, even if they consume less of it. It is a trend that may bode well even for niche beers that pack a bitter punch and test a French palate predisposed to lighter, aromatic flavors.
Expanding into France is a natural evolution for Brooklyn Brewery, the largest exporter of American craft beer, with sales in 17 countries around the world. Foreign sales account for 20 percent of the privately held company’s annual sales of $50 million. Outside of New York, sales are the second-highest in Sweden, where the company plans to open a brewery by the end of the year. Expanding into France is a natural evolution for Brooklyn Brewery, the largest exporter of American craft beer, with sales in 17 countries around the world. Foreign sales account for 20 percent of the privately held company’s annual sales of $50 million. Outside of New York City, Brooklyn’s largest market is Sweden, where the company plans to open a brewery by the end of the year.
“It’s a matter of focus and an investment of time,” said Eric Ottaway, Brooklyn Brewery’s general manager and, along with his father and brother, majority owner. “Selling beer in France isn’t very different than in, say, Oklahoma.”“It’s a matter of focus and an investment of time,” said Eric Ottaway, Brooklyn Brewery’s general manager and, along with his father and brother, majority owner. “Selling beer in France isn’t very different than in, say, Oklahoma.”
Brooklyn’s marketing strategy is to start small, selling in carefully chosen outlets where experts behind the bar, or the counter, will match the right beer to the right drinker. That is the necessary strategy for France, industry experts say, where people are open to new tastes if the quality is high.Brooklyn’s marketing strategy is to start small, selling in carefully chosen outlets where experts behind the bar, or the counter, will match the right beer to the right drinker. That is the necessary strategy for France, industry experts say, where people are open to new tastes if the quality is high.
“You’re not going to put Brooklyn in any corner cafe,” said Joshua Fontaine, an American who co-owns three Paris bars. “The customers wouldn’t understand it, and they wouldn’t pay €2 more for it.” Mr. Fontaine’s bars include the Marais hot spot Candelaria, which specializes in upscale cocktails and sells Brooklyn lager. “You’re not going to put Brooklyn in any corner cafe,” said Joshua Fontaine, an American who is co-owner of three Paris bars. “The customers wouldn’t understand it, and they wouldn’t pay 2 euros more for it.” Mr. Fontaine’s bars include the Marais hot spot Candelaria, which specializes in upscale cocktails and sells Brooklyn lager.
With a bar price of €5 to €7 a bottle, Brooklyn lager is the same price as Bud. Both beers go for twice the price of a half-pint of Kronenbourg, the homegrown perennial cafe favorite. With a bar price of 5 to 7 euros a bottle, Brooklyn lager is the same price as Bud. Both beers go for twice the price of a half-pint of Kronenbourg, the homegrown perennial cafe favorite.
A price premium is not necessarily a drawback. “You have successful beers today at the high end of the market, even in a difficult economic climate,” said Nikolaas Faes, an analyst who follows alcoholic beverage companies at the Paris brokerage Bryan Garnier & Company.A price premium is not necessarily a drawback. “You have successful beers today at the high end of the market, even in a difficult economic climate,” said Nikolaas Faes, an analyst who follows alcoholic beverage companies at the Paris brokerage Bryan Garnier & Company.
Inevitably, it is the comparison with a fine wine that is perhaps Brooklyn’s best selling point, said Elisabeth Pierre, a Paris-based beer consultant. She plans to include Brooklyn beers in her tastings, pairing, say, a nutty brown ale with a smoky gouda cheese. Inevitably, it is the comparison with a fine wine that is perhaps Brooklyn’s best selling point, said Elisabeth Pierre, a Paris-based beer consultant. She said she planned to include Brooklyn beers in her tastings, pairing, say, a nutty brown ale with a smoky Gouda cheese.
“Brooklyn beer is compatible with wine — it is wine,” Ms. Pierre said with a laugh, then sipped a Brooklyn specialty ale called Crochet Rouge Riesling at a tasting on Monday at Le Dauphin, a restaurant in eastern Paris, not far from the hipster Oberkampf district, and has a reputation for innovative dishes. Over the last few months, Brooklyn Lager, the brewery’s flagship beer and top seller, and Brooklyn India Pale Ale began appearing at 36 bars, restaurants and specialty shops in Paris. Other varieties and seasonal brews are available on a more limited basis.
The name Crochet Rouge translates to Red Hook, after the winery on the New York waterfront where the Brooklyn Brewery beer makers harvested the left-over yeast used to make it. The ale is then aged with Riesling leaves, lending a dry finish vaguely similar to the wine produced by Riesling grapes. The 25-year-old brewery is hoping also to cash in on the hipster cachet that Brooklyn conveys. Its distinctive label carries a cursive B designed by Milton Glaser, father of the “I (heart) New York” logo.
It also leaves the initial “barnyard” aroma that evolves after uncorking — yes, there is a cork — with flavors suggesting butterscotch, chocolate or perhaps apple, depending on who is sipping. “Parisians adore Brooklyn — they can’t get enough of it,” said Camille Rivière, who exports natural French wines to New York.
Over the last few months, Brooklyn lager, the brewery’s flagship beer and top seller, and Brooklyn India Pale Ale began appearing at 36 bars, restaurants and specialty shops in Paris. Other varieties and seasonal brews are available on a more limited basis. “It’s a brand on its own. It’s America. It’s New York.”
The 25-year-old brewery is hoping also to cash in on the hipster cachet that “Brooklyn” conveys. Its distinctive label carries a cursive “B” designed by Milton Glaser, father of the “I (heart) New York” logo.
“Parisians adore Brooklyn, they can’t get enough of it,” said Camille Rivière, who exports natural French wines to New York and quizzed Brewmaster Oliver about his fermentation methods at Le Dauphin. “It’s a brand on its own. It’s America. It’s New York.”

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: February 13, 2013Correction: February 13, 2013

An earlier version of this article misstated the name of a European brewers organization. It is the Brewers of Europe, not the Federation of Brewers in Europe.

An earlier version of this article misstated the name of a European brewers organization. It is the Brewers of Europe, not the Federation of Brewers in Europe.