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| Is there a moral vacuum at the heart of fashion? | Is there a moral vacuum at the heart of fashion? |
| (7 months later) | |
| Kathryn Flett, journalist and columnist | Kathryn Flett, journalist and columnist |
| So apparently the profoundly disgraced John Galliano, chief designer at Dior until 2011, when latterly of the little known label Persona Non Grata after his foul antisemitic rant was caught on film in a Parisian restaurant, is not only suing his former employer on the grounds of wrongful dismissal, arguing that it did so without "real or serious cause", but is also (according to USA Today) currently "working in a secluded corner of Oscar de la Renta's airy 25th-floor atelier". | So apparently the profoundly disgraced John Galliano, chief designer at Dior until 2011, when latterly of the little known label Persona Non Grata after his foul antisemitic rant was caught on film in a Parisian restaurant, is not only suing his former employer on the grounds of wrongful dismissal, arguing that it did so without "real or serious cause", but is also (according to USA Today) currently "working in a secluded corner of Oscar de la Renta's airy 25th-floor atelier". |
| For the non-fashion-savvy, Oscar de la Renta is the octogenarian US designer of Dominican extraction most famous for dressing Nancy Reagan and Jackie Kennedy in haute conventional style, while John Galliano is the fiftysomething British designer famous for dressing (and drinking) like a pirate. The fact that JG also designs gorgeous frocks, including (post-Dior) Kate Moss's wedding dress, has been entirely overshadowed by his alcoholism and, uh, related "issues". Personally I doubt that an appearance in the House of Big Brother could "reimagine" the House of Galliano, so what does the House of de la Renta think it's doing? Admittedly it's known for its big smiles, short memories and penchant for moral vacuity, but surely even the world of fashion can see that however much of a "genius" he may be, the "racist" Galliano is beyond professional rehabilitation? | For the non-fashion-savvy, Oscar de la Renta is the octogenarian US designer of Dominican extraction most famous for dressing Nancy Reagan and Jackie Kennedy in haute conventional style, while John Galliano is the fiftysomething British designer famous for dressing (and drinking) like a pirate. The fact that JG also designs gorgeous frocks, including (post-Dior) Kate Moss's wedding dress, has been entirely overshadowed by his alcoholism and, uh, related "issues". Personally I doubt that an appearance in the House of Big Brother could "reimagine" the House of Galliano, so what does the House of de la Renta think it's doing? Admittedly it's known for its big smiles, short memories and penchant for moral vacuity, but surely even the world of fashion can see that however much of a "genius" he may be, the "racist" Galliano is beyond professional rehabilitation? |
| Marie O'Riordan, former editor of Marie Claire | Marie O'Riordan, former editor of Marie Claire |
| I am not going to defend John Galliano's vile behaviour but doesn't everybody deserve a second chance? Even the group that campaigns against antisemitism, the Anti-Defamation League, has gone on the record saying they are happy that Galliano has learned his lesson and they "believe that individuals can change as long as they demonstrate true contrition". Which Galliano certainly has done. And while I appreciate your views about one individual in the fashion world, we all have to get dressed every day. Let's face it, the fashion world has never pretended to operate on some superior moral plain. Kate Moss is a model, not a role model. So many areas of life purport to be moral but have come crashing down in the last few years: government, financial, newspapers, the BBC, sport – they have all revealed pockets of corruption. But every day we get dressed, it is our opportunity to express our individuality. Our fashion choices can be turned into an act of rebellion, creativity or ambition. Perhaps most importantly, fashion is fun. What would a fashion world look like if controlled by the moral police? Mao's China? The likes of Galliano are in charge of designing our trousers, not our children's schools or our hospitals. | I am not going to defend John Galliano's vile behaviour but doesn't everybody deserve a second chance? Even the group that campaigns against antisemitism, the Anti-Defamation League, has gone on the record saying they are happy that Galliano has learned his lesson and they "believe that individuals can change as long as they demonstrate true contrition". Which Galliano certainly has done. And while I appreciate your views about one individual in the fashion world, we all have to get dressed every day. Let's face it, the fashion world has never pretended to operate on some superior moral plain. Kate Moss is a model, not a role model. So many areas of life purport to be moral but have come crashing down in the last few years: government, financial, newspapers, the BBC, sport – they have all revealed pockets of corruption. But every day we get dressed, it is our opportunity to express our individuality. Our fashion choices can be turned into an act of rebellion, creativity or ambition. Perhaps most importantly, fashion is fun. What would a fashion world look like if controlled by the moral police? Mao's China? The likes of Galliano are in charge of designing our trousers, not our children's schools or our hospitals. |
| KF The fashion industry may not operate on "some superior moral plain", but wouldn't it be great if it decided it wanted to? Though I'd be delighted for it to function on a vaguely-in-touch-with-the-way-the-rest-of-us-actually-live kind of plain – and I speak as a former fashion editor. And as for Kate – even if she's never aspired to be one, well of course she's a role model to young women; you can't design collections for Top Shop and imagine yourself to be anything else. | KF The fashion industry may not operate on "some superior moral plain", but wouldn't it be great if it decided it wanted to? Though I'd be delighted for it to function on a vaguely-in-touch-with-the-way-the-rest-of-us-actually-live kind of plain – and I speak as a former fashion editor. And as for Kate – even if she's never aspired to be one, well of course she's a role model to young women; you can't design collections for Top Shop and imagine yourself to be anything else. |
| However, it's one thing to be a "style icon" but when your alleged "style" includes declaring that "nothing tastes as good as skinny feels" (as Kate did in 2009), well… type that phrase into Google Images and see what comes up. | However, it's one thing to be a "style icon" but when your alleged "style" includes declaring that "nothing tastes as good as skinny feels" (as Kate did in 2009), well… type that phrase into Google Images and see what comes up. |
| While some groups such as All Walks Beyond the Catwalk (allwalks.org) campaign tirelessly for the fashion industry to clean up its own backyard, elsewhere fashion is allowed to carry on living an unexamined life entirely outside the parameters of the "real world". This is the dark place where a Galliano is allowed to melt down so publicly. And this is also the world in which a photographer such as Terry Richardson is feted as "brilliant" when his work is at best deeply and unpleasantly exploitative of young women. Fashion has always wanted to have its cake and then choose not to eat it. Unfortunately (unlike Parliament or the BBC) it is not – yet – answerable for its often pretty abhorrent actions. | While some groups such as All Walks Beyond the Catwalk (allwalks.org) campaign tirelessly for the fashion industry to clean up its own backyard, elsewhere fashion is allowed to carry on living an unexamined life entirely outside the parameters of the "real world". This is the dark place where a Galliano is allowed to melt down so publicly. And this is also the world in which a photographer such as Terry Richardson is feted as "brilliant" when his work is at best deeply and unpleasantly exploitative of young women. Fashion has always wanted to have its cake and then choose not to eat it. Unfortunately (unlike Parliament or the BBC) it is not – yet – answerable for its often pretty abhorrent actions. |
| MO'R I accept your charges about the likes of Terry Richardson – there are vile operators in any industry but it doesn't mean the whole of that world should be sullied by them. The truth is that a morally elevated fashion industry would bore the tailored pants off most people. Interestingly, last week there actually was a Christian fashion week being held in Tampa, Florida, running simultaneously alongside New York fashion week. The mission behind CFW is to showcase designs that "promote and respect stylish moderation instead of sexuality and excess". We know which of these two fashion events everyone's going to ogle most. The fashion world doesn't claim to preach. Only those with no taste, no imagination and too much money wear head-to-toe catwalk clobber. Brilliant British high street design guarantees the rest of us a welcome place. Fashion is the only so-called-elitist world I can think of where everyone belongs. Just by adding a special button to a cardigan or a sequin to a shirt, you are participating. Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour understand this – the naysayers need to cast off their hairshirts and join the party. | MO'R I accept your charges about the likes of Terry Richardson – there are vile operators in any industry but it doesn't mean the whole of that world should be sullied by them. The truth is that a morally elevated fashion industry would bore the tailored pants off most people. Interestingly, last week there actually was a Christian fashion week being held in Tampa, Florida, running simultaneously alongside New York fashion week. The mission behind CFW is to showcase designs that "promote and respect stylish moderation instead of sexuality and excess". We know which of these two fashion events everyone's going to ogle most. The fashion world doesn't claim to preach. Only those with no taste, no imagination and too much money wear head-to-toe catwalk clobber. Brilliant British high street design guarantees the rest of us a welcome place. Fashion is the only so-called-elitist world I can think of where everyone belongs. Just by adding a special button to a cardigan or a sequin to a shirt, you are participating. Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour understand this – the naysayers need to cast off their hairshirts and join the party. |
| KF Far be it from me to rain on the catwalk parade – I've had some of the most "fun", memorable and inspiring moments of my life thanks to fashion (including seeing Galliano's earliest shows back in the 80s) – however in the same way that it's perfectly possible to have a great time at a party without drinking to excess or indulging in class-As, so it's perfectly possible to enjoy fashion's creativity and joie de vivre without endorsing its dark side. | KF Far be it from me to rain on the catwalk parade – I've had some of the most "fun", memorable and inspiring moments of my life thanks to fashion (including seeing Galliano's earliest shows back in the 80s) – however in the same way that it's perfectly possible to have a great time at a party without drinking to excess or indulging in class-As, so it's perfectly possible to enjoy fashion's creativity and joie de vivre without endorsing its dark side. |
| I love a nice frock as much as the next woman, but I am also concerned that the industry often operates in a moral vacuum, arrogantly isolating itself from social mores and moral codes by which the rest of us are not only expected to live but are actually perfectly happy to abide by. If only there were more like Dame Vivienne Westwood – another designer of "genius" who, when I interviewed her recently, happily admitted that these days her interest in fashion is negligible compared to her interest in climate change. | I love a nice frock as much as the next woman, but I am also concerned that the industry often operates in a moral vacuum, arrogantly isolating itself from social mores and moral codes by which the rest of us are not only expected to live but are actually perfectly happy to abide by. If only there were more like Dame Vivienne Westwood – another designer of "genius" who, when I interviewed her recently, happily admitted that these days her interest in fashion is negligible compared to her interest in climate change. |
| Fun is fine but surely a sense of humour, perspective and some self-awareness are finer qualities? Either way, the guest list for the non-stop fun-fun-fun fashion party is one I'm perfectly happy to be excluded from. And as for the opinions of either Karl or Anna – purlease, Marie, don't get me started… | Fun is fine but surely a sense of humour, perspective and some self-awareness are finer qualities? Either way, the guest list for the non-stop fun-fun-fun fashion party is one I'm perfectly happy to be excluded from. And as for the opinions of either Karl or Anna – purlease, Marie, don't get me started… |
| MO'R I am so glad you mention Dame Viv. The magical mystery of her draping is what most women seek in a frock for their whole lives. Her tailoring is thankfully more impressive than her sloganeering. And no one is silly enough to look to Viv to solve our energy crisis. The dark side of fashion you mention is exaggerated, simply a part of the hyperbole that lies at the heart of any world that sells newspapers, magazines and billions of products every day. Before I witnessed it as an insider, I too was sceptical. But like Michael Gove last week, I was forced into a 180-degree about-turn as my ignorance was challenged. Through fashion, I have met the cleverest, most thoughtful, focused and strategic pool of talent. I have witnessed wonderful feats of human endeavour and learned to appreciate the joy it gives to so many people on a daily basis. Fashionistas might occasionally be silly, but they are rarely satanic. | MO'R I am so glad you mention Dame Viv. The magical mystery of her draping is what most women seek in a frock for their whole lives. Her tailoring is thankfully more impressive than her sloganeering. And no one is silly enough to look to Viv to solve our energy crisis. The dark side of fashion you mention is exaggerated, simply a part of the hyperbole that lies at the heart of any world that sells newspapers, magazines and billions of products every day. Before I witnessed it as an insider, I too was sceptical. But like Michael Gove last week, I was forced into a 180-degree about-turn as my ignorance was challenged. Through fashion, I have met the cleverest, most thoughtful, focused and strategic pool of talent. I have witnessed wonderful feats of human endeavour and learned to appreciate the joy it gives to so many people on a daily basis. Fashionistas might occasionally be silly, but they are rarely satanic. |
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