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Tom Ford: fashion's slickest control freak Tom Ford: fashion's slickest control freak
(7 months later)
When Tom Ford was 14 years old, he was worried about bags under his eyes. So young Tom went to his kitchen in Santa Fe, New Mexico, chopped up some cucumber slices, placed them on his eyelids and sat back, waiting for them to take effect. But after a few moments, his face began to feel tingly and then the skin around his eyes puffed up alarmingly. He was allergic to cucumber and had to be whisked off to hospital to regain his sight.When Tom Ford was 14 years old, he was worried about bags under his eyes. So young Tom went to his kitchen in Santa Fe, New Mexico, chopped up some cucumber slices, placed them on his eyelids and sat back, waiting for them to take effect. But after a few moments, his face began to feel tingly and then the skin around his eyes puffed up alarmingly. He was allergic to cucumber and had to be whisked off to hospital to regain his sight.
There are lots of strange stories about Ford, the 51-year-old fashion designer and film-maker, and the funny – and sometimes alarming – thing is that they are almost all true. When he first met Gwyneth Paltrow, he did, indeed, ask to father her children. During an interview with AA Gill, he suggested – "just after he'd said that every man should have a penis in his bottom at least once in his life to know what all the fuss is about" – they conduct their conversation naked. And that's exactly what they did.There are lots of strange stories about Ford, the 51-year-old fashion designer and film-maker, and the funny – and sometimes alarming – thing is that they are almost all true. When he first met Gwyneth Paltrow, he did, indeed, ask to father her children. During an interview with AA Gill, he suggested – "just after he'd said that every man should have a penis in his bottom at least once in his life to know what all the fuss is about" – they conduct their conversation naked. And that's exactly what they did.
A recent favourite of mine was the whisper that he had five baths a day. "Is that a myth?" he was asked at an industry event in New York. "If I'm sending emails and I get all wound up and stressed and don't know what to do with myself for 20 minutes, I just go soak in hot water and lie there, thinking, 'What should I do?'" explained Ford. "So it's meditative." He stopped just short of shaking his head and saying: "Wait a minute, you don't take five baths a day? Some people…"A recent favourite of mine was the whisper that he had five baths a day. "Is that a myth?" he was asked at an industry event in New York. "If I'm sending emails and I get all wound up and stressed and don't know what to do with myself for 20 minutes, I just go soak in hot water and lie there, thinking, 'What should I do?'" explained Ford. "So it's meditative." He stopped just short of shaking his head and saying: "Wait a minute, you don't take five baths a day? Some people…"
Ford, the person, has always been a peerless advertisement for the clothes he makes for both men and women. When he is not naked – his preferred state at home – he wears a slim-fit, single-breasted dark suit with a crisp white shirt that slips buttons the longer the evening goes on. Not since Coco Chanel has a fashion designer so singularly embodied the spirit of their creations. He is sexy, playful and flamboyant and you can be, too, if you wear his designs.Ford, the person, has always been a peerless advertisement for the clothes he makes for both men and women. When he is not naked – his preferred state at home – he wears a slim-fit, single-breasted dark suit with a crisp white shirt that slips buttons the longer the evening goes on. Not since Coco Chanel has a fashion designer so singularly embodied the spirit of their creations. He is sexy, playful and flamboyant and you can be, too, if you wear his designs.
For almost three decades now, Ford has also retained an unerring ability to stay in the spotlight. Tonight, at the Bafta awards, many of the nominees will be wearing Tom Ford on the red carpet: his office is reluctant to release names but Bradley Cooper and Daniel Craig, whom Ford dressed in Skyfall, are admirers of his slick tailoring.For almost three decades now, Ford has also retained an unerring ability to stay in the spotlight. Tonight, at the Bafta awards, many of the nominees will be wearing Tom Ford on the red carpet: his office is reluctant to release names but Bradley Cooper and Daniel Craig, whom Ford dressed in Skyfall, are admirers of his slick tailoring.
Then, on 18 February at 7pm, Ford will present his new women's collection, a catwalk show that is the most awaited event of London fashion week. The designer's decision to conduct his latest reveal in London is, in fashion circles, akin to the city winning a bid to host the Olympic Games and the World Cup. It follows Ford presenting his new menswear line in the capital last month. His decision to leave Milan is said to have annoyed the Italians no end.Then, on 18 February at 7pm, Ford will present his new women's collection, a catwalk show that is the most awaited event of London fashion week. The designer's decision to conduct his latest reveal in London is, in fashion circles, akin to the city winning a bid to host the Olympic Games and the World Cup. It follows Ford presenting his new menswear line in the capital last month. His decision to leave Milan is said to have annoyed the Italians no end.
Only a few details have trickled out about Ford's show. The most salient one is that he is widening the guest list, though, before you take your best frock to the dry-cleaners, only a little. Previous presentations have been elite, starry affairs. At the first for his own label, in 2010, Ford took on the MC duties himself, introducing each model as she strode down the runway. He said to Joan Smalls that she might have turned him straight and then told Beyoncé that she definitely had.Only a few details have trickled out about Ford's show. The most salient one is that he is widening the guest list, though, before you take your best frock to the dry-cleaners, only a little. Previous presentations have been elite, starry affairs. At the first for his own label, in 2010, Ford took on the MC duties himself, introducing each model as she strode down the runway. He said to Joan Smalls that she might have turned him straight and then told Beyoncé that she definitely had.
For London fashion week, though, he has grander plans. "This is going to be for 500 to 1,000 people. Photographers, bloggers… a regular, real show," Ford said recently. "I want to show in London because now I have 100 stores worldwide. The company has jumped and I can no longer service the stores by not showing. So I have to love it and embrace it."For London fashion week, though, he has grander plans. "This is going to be for 500 to 1,000 people. Photographers, bloggers… a regular, real show," Ford said recently. "I want to show in London because now I have 100 stores worldwide. The company has jumped and I can no longer service the stores by not showing. So I have to love it and embrace it."
If Ford could sound more excited, it is because the new show might involve him doing what he likes least in the world: surrendering a modicum of control. Don't be fooled into thinking that he just lies in the tub all day. As the creative director of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Ford designed 16 collections a year for more than a decade. He oversaw every element of the way the clothes looked and how the shops were laid out. He has been known to conduct spot checks on the cupboards of his employees and there is hell to pay if they are not immaculate.If Ford could sound more excited, it is because the new show might involve him doing what he likes least in the world: surrendering a modicum of control. Don't be fooled into thinking that he just lies in the tub all day. As the creative director of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Ford designed 16 collections a year for more than a decade. He oversaw every element of the way the clothes looked and how the shops were laid out. He has been known to conduct spot checks on the cupboards of his employees and there is hell to pay if they are not immaculate.
"I am a perfectionist," Ford said in 1996, as he was breaking through. "This job is a total ego thing in a way. To be a designer and say, 'This is the way they should dress; this is the way their homes should look; this is the way the world should be.' But then, that's the goal: world domination through style.""I am a perfectionist," Ford said in 1996, as he was breaking through. "This job is a total ego thing in a way. To be a designer and say, 'This is the way they should dress; this is the way their homes should look; this is the way the world should be.' But then, that's the goal: world domination through style."
As the cucumber experiment shows, Thomas Carlyle Ford had an interest in fashion and beauty from an early age. He was born into a Presbyterian household in Texas – his parents were in real estate – and his first muse was his grandmother. "She was incredibly stylish, she had big hair, big cars," he recalled. "I was probably three years old, but she was like a cartoon character. She'd swoop into our lives with presents and boxes. She always had the latest things."As the cucumber experiment shows, Thomas Carlyle Ford had an interest in fashion and beauty from an early age. He was born into a Presbyterian household in Texas – his parents were in real estate – and his first muse was his grandmother. "She was incredibly stylish, she had big hair, big cars," he recalled. "I was probably three years old, but she was like a cartoon character. She'd swoop into our lives with presents and boxes. She always had the latest things."
This grandmother later became the inspiration for Charley, Julianne Moore's character, in Ford's 2009 film, A Single Man. Although the idea for the story came from a Christopher Isherwood novel, Ford heavily tweaked the characters to make them autobiographical. "It really was my midlife crisis on the screen," he admitted.This grandmother later became the inspiration for Charley, Julianne Moore's character, in Ford's 2009 film, A Single Man. Although the idea for the story came from a Christopher Isherwood novel, Ford heavily tweaked the characters to make them autobiographical. "It really was my midlife crisis on the screen," he admitted.
As a student, Ford dabbled in architecture, acting and fashion – and spent his evenings in Studio 54 in the early 1980s – before starting to work with American designers. During this time, he met his partner, style journalist Richard Buckley, 13 years his senior, and they are still together more than a quarter of a century later. "I went to a fashion show and this silver-haired guy was staring at me with these piercing water-blue eyes," Ford said. "It scared me because I absolutely saw and knew my entire future."As a student, Ford dabbled in architecture, acting and fashion – and spent his evenings in Studio 54 in the early 1980s – before starting to work with American designers. During this time, he met his partner, style journalist Richard Buckley, 13 years his senior, and they are still together more than a quarter of a century later. "I went to a fashion show and this silver-haired guy was staring at me with these piercing water-blue eyes," Ford said. "It scared me because I absolutely saw and knew my entire future."
In 1990, aged 29, Ford got his break, when he was asked to become the chief women's designer at Gucci. The Italian label was in a deep rut, close to bankruptcy; it was known for outmoded leather goods and turned over around £150m a year. When Ford left, in 2004, it was a powerhouse worth £2bn or more that also encompassed Yves Saint Laurent and British designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. He curated "the first real high-end global fashion brand", according to the New York Times.In 1990, aged 29, Ford got his break, when he was asked to become the chief women's designer at Gucci. The Italian label was in a deep rut, close to bankruptcy; it was known for outmoded leather goods and turned over around £150m a year. When Ford left, in 2004, it was a powerhouse worth £2bn or more that also encompassed Yves Saint Laurent and British designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. He curated "the first real high-end global fashion brand", according to the New York Times.
There were many iconic pieces over the years – Gucci's velvet hip-huggers and the Jackie bag, and a 70s-inspired peasant blouse for YSL – but it was the advertising that set the agenda for the Gucci Group's edgy new direction. The billboard of a nude, concupiscent Sophie Dahl, for YSL's Opium perfume, was listed in 2012 as the eighth most-complained-about advert of the past 50 years. Ford would be disappointed to learn that the model with a Gucci "G" shaved into her pubic hair didn't make the top 10.There were many iconic pieces over the years – Gucci's velvet hip-huggers and the Jackie bag, and a 70s-inspired peasant blouse for YSL – but it was the advertising that set the agenda for the Gucci Group's edgy new direction. The billboard of a nude, concupiscent Sophie Dahl, for YSL's Opium perfume, was listed in 2012 as the eighth most-complained-about advert of the past 50 years. Ford would be disappointed to learn that the model with a Gucci "G" shaved into her pubic hair didn't make the top 10.
But Ford's ascent stalled when he parted ways with Gucci. It was a difficult break-up, personally as well as professionally. "By the end of Gucci, I was drinking too much, I had no life, I wasn't very nice," he later said. He launched Tom Ford in 2005, but eased himself back in with fragrances and menswear before returning with a women's collection in 2010.But Ford's ascent stalled when he parted ways with Gucci. It was a difficult break-up, personally as well as professionally. "By the end of Gucci, I was drinking too much, I had no life, I wasn't very nice," he later said. He launched Tom Ford in 2005, but eased himself back in with fragrances and menswear before returning with a women's collection in 2010.
Ford also found a new outlet for his obsessive personality with film-making. It started with him acquiring the rights to Isherwood's 1964 novel A Single Man, but proceeded slowly as Ford composed 15 drafts; a studio executive advised him to give up and hand it over to an experienced writer. But he persevered, sinking nearly £5m of his own money into the production, and was rewarded with overwhelmingly positive reviews and an Oscar nomination for the film's star, Colin Firth. The sales of Ford's heavy-framed black spectacles were probably not hurt, either.Ford also found a new outlet for his obsessive personality with film-making. It started with him acquiring the rights to Isherwood's 1964 novel A Single Man, but proceeded slowly as Ford composed 15 drafts; a studio executive advised him to give up and hand it over to an experienced writer. But he persevered, sinking nearly £5m of his own money into the production, and was rewarded with overwhelmingly positive reviews and an Oscar nomination for the film's star, Colin Firth. The sales of Ford's heavy-framed black spectacles were probably not hurt, either.
Ford remains a brilliant multitasker and exuberant salesman, but he projects a less extreme and salacious image than in his Gucci heyday. He no longer drinks, has trimmed down and looks practically ageless. Last September, he and Buckley became parents (the baby, Alexander, was born to a surrogate mother in America). A committed Anglophile, he lives between the US and London – a guilty pleasure is The Only Way is Essex – and he has hinted that he might make the UK his permanent base. "My dream goal is to raise my children here," he said recently.Ford remains a brilliant multitasker and exuberant salesman, but he projects a less extreme and salacious image than in his Gucci heyday. He no longer drinks, has trimmed down and looks practically ageless. Last September, he and Buckley became parents (the baby, Alexander, was born to a surrogate mother in America). A committed Anglophile, he lives between the US and London – a guilty pleasure is The Only Way is Essex – and he has hinted that he might make the UK his permanent base. "My dream goal is to raise my children here," he said recently.
For now, however, he simply wants to create "beautiful, glamorous clothes". We will find out at London fashion week if one of fashion's great provocateurs has any surprises up his immaculate white sleeves.For now, however, he simply wants to create "beautiful, glamorous clothes". We will find out at London fashion week if one of fashion's great provocateurs has any surprises up his immaculate white sleeves.
Born 27 August 1961 in Austin, Texas, to Tom and Shirley. He spent his early years in the suburbs of Austin and Houston, before the family moved to New Mexico when he was 11.Born 27 August 1961 in Austin, Texas, to Tom and Shirley. He spent his early years in the suburbs of Austin and Houston, before the family moved to New Mexico when he was 11.
Best of times Bringing Gucci back from the brink in the mid-1990s as creative director, then defying the doubters with his film debut, A Single Man.Best of times Bringing Gucci back from the brink in the mid-1990s as creative director, then defying the doubters with his film debut, A Single Man.
Worst of times Leaving Gucci in 2004 after a disagreement with his bosses: "Overnight I felt that I no longer had an identity."Worst of times Leaving Gucci in 2004 after a disagreement with his bosses: "Overnight I felt that I no longer had an identity."
What he says "A man should never wear shorts in the city. Flip-flops and shorts in the city are never appropriate. Shorts should only be worn on the tennis court or on the beach."What he says "A man should never wear shorts in the city. Flip-flops and shorts in the city are never appropriate. Shorts should only be worn on the tennis court or on the beach."
What they say "I don't think I have ever worked with anyone with a greater passion for detail or a clearer vision of his aesthetic goals. As somebody disposed to my own brand of perfectionism, it was an unfamiliar experience to be outdone by a man whose persistence and exactitude put my own to shame. Tom Ford, I realised, was the Flaubert of fashion."What they say "I don't think I have ever worked with anyone with a greater passion for detail or a clearer vision of his aesthetic goals. As somebody disposed to my own brand of perfectionism, it was an unfamiliar experience to be outdone by a man whose persistence and exactitude put my own to shame. Tom Ford, I realised, was the Flaubert of fashion."
Anna Wintour, US Vogue's editor-in-chiefAnna Wintour, US Vogue's editor-in-chief
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