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| Bolivia's protest centre becomes its boomtown | Bolivia's protest centre becomes its boomtown |
| (7 days later) | |
| At a crowded food court in the Bolivian city of El Alto, diners are tucking into plates of burgers, pizzas, fried chicken and Chinese food. | At a crowded food court in the Bolivian city of El Alto, diners are tucking into plates of burgers, pizzas, fried chicken and Chinese food. |
| It's a simple setup: a dozen restaurants, and a tiled eating area with metal chairs, but prices are comparable with those in the country's de facto capital, La Paz – and every table is full. | It's a simple setup: a dozen restaurants, and a tiled eating area with metal chairs, but prices are comparable with those in the country's de facto capital, La Paz – and every table is full. |
| Until recently, fast-food courts, highrise apartment blocks, shopping malls and new cinemas seemed a world away from this gritty, and occasionally volatile, city. But a string of multimillion-dollar developments have been planned that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. | Until recently, fast-food courts, highrise apartment blocks, shopping malls and new cinemas seemed a world away from this gritty, and occasionally volatile, city. But a string of multimillion-dollar developments have been planned that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. |
| Nearly a decade ago, El Alto exploded into a series of protests and violent clashes with the armed forces over gas exports that left more than 60 people dead and ultimately toppled a president. The city is still a centre for protests and politics that can influence national policy (a popular rallying cry is "El Alto on its feet, never on its knees") but today it's also a symbol of Bolivia's growing economy and entrepreneurial spirit. | Nearly a decade ago, El Alto exploded into a series of protests and violent clashes with the armed forces over gas exports that left more than 60 people dead and ultimately toppled a president. The city is still a centre for protests and politics that can influence national policy (a popular rallying cry is "El Alto on its feet, never on its knees") but today it's also a symbol of Bolivia's growing economy and entrepreneurial spirit. |
| "In El Alto the climate, the altitude, the lack of water are all issues, but people have overcome those problems by putting double the usual effort," said Edgar Patana Ticona, the city's mayor. "People are extremely hardworking." | "In El Alto the climate, the altitude, the lack of water are all issues, but people have overcome those problems by putting double the usual effort," said Edgar Patana Ticona, the city's mayor. "People are extremely hardworking." |
| Ticona, looking freshly pressed and cheerful at 8am, is an example of that ethic: he was in meetings until 5am. | Ticona, looking freshly pressed and cheerful at 8am, is an example of that ethic: he was in meetings until 5am. |
| Bolivia is one of South America's poorest countries, where huge amounts of valuable raw materials such as silver, tin and gas were historically exported while the local people remained in poverty. But it has seen a period of relative stability and growth since the election in 2006 of President Evo Morales, the polarising former coca farmer and leader of the Movement Toward Socialism (MAS). Today, Morales is the longest-serving leader since the country returned to democracy 30 years ago. | Bolivia is one of South America's poorest countries, where huge amounts of valuable raw materials such as silver, tin and gas were historically exported while the local people remained in poverty. But it has seen a period of relative stability and growth since the election in 2006 of President Evo Morales, the polarising former coca farmer and leader of the Movement Toward Socialism (MAS). Today, Morales is the longest-serving leader since the country returned to democracy 30 years ago. |
| Average yearly economic growth has been 4.7% over the past five years, according to the World Bank, outstripping the figures for countries such as the UK, the US and Germany. | Average yearly economic growth has been 4.7% over the past five years, according to the World Bank, outstripping the figures for countries such as the UK, the US and Germany. |
| Morales nationalised the country's gas industry, and steadily high prices for hydrocarbons and minerals, Bolivia's two key exports, have been a boon to the national economy and supported some of the government's poverty reduction programmes. | Morales nationalised the country's gas industry, and steadily high prices for hydrocarbons and minerals, Bolivia's two key exports, have been a boon to the national economy and supported some of the government's poverty reduction programmes. |
| El Alto is one of the most dramatic examples of Bolivian growth. During the past decade mass migration from rural indigenous communities jump-started a commercial and construction boom. Between 2006 and 2011 the number of construction companies registered in El Alto grew by more than 200%, and manufacturing more than doubled, according to Bolivia's business registry. | El Alto is one of the most dramatic examples of Bolivian growth. During the past decade mass migration from rural indigenous communities jump-started a commercial and construction boom. Between 2006 and 2011 the number of construction companies registered in El Alto grew by more than 200%, and manufacturing more than doubled, according to Bolivia's business registry. |
| The city's vast commercial power is most evident at its twice-weekly open-air market, where Aymara Indian women in bowler hats and multicoloured skirts buoyed by white petticoats sail down crowded streets where everything from gold jewellery to cars to donkeys is for sale. | The city's vast commercial power is most evident at its twice-weekly open-air market, where Aymara Indian women in bowler hats and multicoloured skirts buoyed by white petticoats sail down crowded streets where everything from gold jewellery to cars to donkeys is for sale. |
| Many of El Alto's businessmen and women preside over small businesses, and the informal economy is a huge force. Big investments are also arriving. | Many of El Alto's businessmen and women preside over small businesses, and the informal economy is a huge force. Big investments are also arriving. |
| Alejandro Yaffar de la Barra is president of DYA SRL, the company behind a recently built modern food court in El Alto. It's something that didn't exist here before, and business is going well. "El Alto is a city that's poised to grow economically and commercially," he said. With more large-scale projects planned, Ticona expects El Alto's transformation to continue over the next decade. | Alejandro Yaffar de la Barra is president of DYA SRL, the company behind a recently built modern food court in El Alto. It's something that didn't exist here before, and business is going well. "El Alto is a city that's poised to grow economically and commercially," he said. With more large-scale projects planned, Ticona expects El Alto's transformation to continue over the next decade. |
| But it's not all roses. Poverty is still widespread, and El Alto's tax revenues are so small that the city relies heavily on central government to support infrastructure projects from paved roads to sewers, which always seem lag behind the needs of the ever-growing population. On the national level, poverty is falling but remains a serious issue, and some economists say that if mineral and gas prices fall, Bolivia will be left in the economic lurch. | But it's not all roses. Poverty is still widespread, and El Alto's tax revenues are so small that the city relies heavily on central government to support infrastructure projects from paved roads to sewers, which always seem lag behind the needs of the ever-growing population. On the national level, poverty is falling but remains a serious issue, and some economists say that if mineral and gas prices fall, Bolivia will be left in the economic lurch. |
| Still, many people are hopeful. Nelson David Chambi owns a textile business in El Alto that makes quilts and sheets from imported fabric. Chambi's business has taken him to the very different landscapes of huge cities in China and Brazil. He hopes that everything from the water and sewer service to the mass transport and commercial centres enjoyed by residents there will become reality here during the next few years. Asked if that seems likely, he chuckles. "As the saying goes," he said, "a man without imagination is a man without wings." | Still, many people are hopeful. Nelson David Chambi owns a textile business in El Alto that makes quilts and sheets from imported fabric. Chambi's business has taken him to the very different landscapes of huge cities in China and Brazil. He hopes that everything from the water and sewer service to the mass transport and commercial centres enjoyed by residents there will become reality here during the next few years. Asked if that seems likely, he chuckles. "As the saying goes," he said, "a man without imagination is a man without wings." |
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